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richb77

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Everything posted by richb77

  1. Hi all. I have an unused m05 chassis (racing mini Cooper Version) that I want to rally/tarmac. The car in mind is RWD and I'd like to convert it if possible. Is there a way? Is it worth it? I could at a push leave it FWD if its a ballache. Thanks chaps.
  2. Great!: Thats what i was planning to do ( I stock up on Halfords paints when i go back across the channel). Thanks for that!
  3. I am restoring a vintage wild one at the moment and have a plan for a colour scheme that whilst not clashing with the red cage wouldnt look the best. I was wondering how some people have painted them in a robust manner that they survive some light use. My restos tend to end up ans fully functioning shelfers. Other question (Is open ended and i suspect a can of worms) should i paint them or not? Its not the rarest of vehicles and with the re-re these cage parts are fairly commonplace now.
  4. Thanks chaps. I think I will go with the 36mm motors. Backlash. Yes I have brushless set ups (2) but they are not matched and the boat runs twin motors so will probably be worse than guessing a size. I'll drop some cash on a pair of 3674s and if they dont work, tell the mrs they where only a tenner and try again 😜 Thanks for the sanity check and advise sharing 🍻
  5. OK. I'll come clean. This isnt car or Tamiya related. But i know you lot are bright and helpful. So i managed to get my hands on a NIB Graupner B24 Nimbus boat. Its the GRP hull model from turn of the century and i have been lusting after one since seeing one in the flesh all those years ago. Issue is it was designed and fitted with (2) Graupner speed 600 brushed motors. I want to bring it up to date with twin brushless. I am confusing myself silly with trying to do this and need some guidance. The 600s have are 1845kv (15500 unloaded max rpm on 8.4v nimh) so i am aiming for circa 1800-2200Kv Efficiency means the 600s are about 150W so anything above that is a win. I suspect inrunners are easier (direct swap). I will run 3s Lipos meaning i will get a good but not ludicrous speed increase (and can up to 4s if i want too). Now. The sizes are whats confusing me. I can get 3674 2200Kv motors (36mm diameter x 74mm Long) or 2845 (28mm diameter x 45mm long) now both exceed the wattage of the speed 600, both suit the Kv desire so why choose the heavier, larger and more pricey 36mm over the 28mm? Heat? Torque? How does a brushless measure Torque other than Watts? Thanks for any help as i am going around in circles with this.
  6. Ok. My Mrs is pushing for a thinning of the ranks and i am reluctantly going through what i can part with (I hoard). I picked up this little oddity a while ago which has sat since, not wanting to mess with it (restoration wise). Its odd as i have only ever seen the all blue version with high inlet scoop over the engine and NEVER the white and blue livery. I cannot even find reference to it on the web. Could it be a prototype?? Its marked 1974 which is odd as the car didnt race until 76! Its clean with no corrosion and works just fine in both gear ratios. There is the obvious lack of rear wing and the tyres (after what i assume is close to 40 years) have some minor cracks. The rubber is still supple though and could be repairs with something like stormsure or similar. I chose to leave it as its original. Open to offers. Would possibly be tempted with a 1980's Frog in need of restoration on the grounds that my Mrs must not find out XD
  7. You should be perfectly fine with acrylic auto clear coat. Halfords stuff is pretty **** good IMHO. i would do several light coats, building it up thick enough so you can polish out any orange feel or overspray.
  8. Recalling all the pain and suffering i went through trying to find a pair of these metal brackets (not to mention the cost) i thought i would offer replacement parts up for sale on Shapeways. They are modelled off of my genuine parts and work a treat on my Willy. Holes are pilot and need to be tapped or thread cutting screws used. Standard material option is metallic plastic but metal options are my preferred. Enjoy. https://www.shapeways.com/product/5Q2QPSCNG/tamiya-wild-willy-m38-windscreen-bracket?optionId=61731321
  9. Yippeeeee! Im not the only one...I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE!
  10. In the UK I used to get caught ALL the time. Some retailers mark down the value but your in a world of hurt should the package go missing. So often i would get a delayed delivery with the "You owe HM Customs 1.20 tax and 10.00 to the RM for dealing with it. the tax i could live with but the RM charges where taking the widdle. I have been caught twice in Germany. Its not as bad here as i just get the tax bill...But i have to drive 50 miles to the customs office to pay and collect my goods...Then 50 miles back. That is a P.I.T.A.
  11. If i EVER manage to find/get one...A Vintage Frog! I have been looking for months for a restoration project and NOTHING.
  12. In November I sold my second motorbike (XT660Z Tenere) after I finally got my GSX1400 registered in Germany and learning green landing is completely illegal here :(. So with some free cash I bought something I had hankered after for a while...a Baja 5B. I looked for used but in the end bought a King motor clone. First trip out (after a careful pre run check) I want to keep it civilised to run it in softly...I hit a divot which launched it 3ft in the air and in a roll. It landed hard on the back corner and as I was 20 or so meters away thought I would bring it back for a look before carrying on. It moved about 1m then revved without moving. It turned out It had sheared a steel link from the A arm to the rear hub. Me spinning the motor hand launched the driveshaft into the field somewhere so play stopped until I could get a replacement (which took 6 weeks as it was lost in the mail). Then the weather set in and I haven't run it since. Total usage...3 minutes 23 seconds according to the timer in my Tx
  13. Can you print them yourself? I use laser printer water slide paper (white and clear) all the time. It's brilliant stuff.
  14. I sound like a TOTAL noob here. I've been spraying hard bodies and static model kits for years with Halfords acrylic spray paints. However, for my bruiser build I want to use Tamiya colours. I've used the PS spray recently quite a bit but the TS is new. Can I spray it over halfords White plastic primer? Does it need a primer? Thanks chaps.
  15. I slather my gearboxes in grease. Making sure it gets into all the teeth. Funny how one experience many many moons ago changes your outlook on something. I once saw a gearbox of a friends Hornet that had been made with NO grease. It was newer than my grasshopper with the 540 motor and it was slower than badword. a quick look inside showed why! From that point on i greased the badword out of everything XD. edit. Wow we are prudish...The Devils home is replaced with "badword".
  16. Realistically it's worth what someone is willing to pay. Me... Anything over £200 is too much...but thr next man could part with £300 without breaking a sweat.
  17. Started building my Bruiser...You can clearly see why it's a €540 kit. The chassis has 9 plastic parts. The rest is all metal and beautifully made too. What a kit!
  18. I tend to collect and restore cars I wanted when I was a lad. If I want to run it outside or hard I also have a rerelease. I was never keen on the bigwig and am on the fence over its rerelease now. I also never wanted a GrB Celica or 959 but either of those would break my habit as I would get one as soon as I could. What I want is a rerelease of the Tyrell P34. I'm not into F1 or their RC models but I'm kicking myself over not getting one of these when I saw it.
  19. I suspect it is a rerelease too but the shocks don't look standard to me. I have a rerelease Brat and that has full metal rear shocks that look totally different to these. it is a great looking model and done nicely (I like the anodised centre section of the wheels surrounded by the stock white).
  20. I've seen that shot floating around google image searches for some time. as far as I could decifer it is a stock grey chassis that's been painted white. Aside from the obvious bling it's got modded front suspension. it wouldn't take a lot of effort to replicate but a fair bit of a moola.
  21. Hi All. I am thinking about building a 6x6 chassis from scratch. The issue i am having early on is how to drive the rear two axles. I suspect the middle axle will be a through shaft to drive the rear most one but can anyone shed any light? What axles (Cheap ones) from Tamiya would suit? I want cheap as its a budget build. However i am not affraid to modify or make parts. I just have never even seen a 6 axle setup to enable me to flesh out some ideas. I have looked at some truck axles and they are eye watering price wise. Thanks!
  22. My bad for the "Surprise" line. It was 4am I was referring to the "Spectacular lot" statement from Tamiya and not a surprise. Consider my wrist slapped
  23. So what's happened here? No official statement from Tamiya on whether the "leak" rere bigwig was real or a VERY early April fools joke. The bigwig 2017 isn't listed for their RC kit at the show yet we where lead to believe "something special" was coming 🙁
  24. I have a poorly King motor 1:5...During its run in i hit a habit burrow/divet and rolled it HARD. I wasn't going fast at all but it tumbled awkwardly and i broke a stud and lost a driveshaft. So whilst sitting staring at it thought i would muddle about with painting the clear body for it. I did for many moons have a jpeg i pinched off the web of a 7up liveried body which was awesome (deviant art of something) but in a cleanup cleared it. So i am looking for inspiration what to do with this body. Anyone have some good ideas or know a good site with ideas/schemes on it?
  25. Thanks Berman. Oh how i would love to run a Baja on some of the NZ beeches! Christ i need to get my ******* back down there (Is it barking mad to feel real homesick for a place that was never home?) I bought a nylon one as i wasnt willing to pay €200 extra for the alloy ones when i dont know the grade or quality of the material. I have a small lathe and CNC mill at home so can make up parts as and when. I also have the four bolt motor which if i understand it correctly fixes a lot of the issues the 2 bolt had with gaskets. I started to run it in yesterday. Half way through a tank with the throttle limited to 40% and i hit a rabbit hole and rolled it...well it bounced 1m in the air twice side over side and landed heavily. The metal rod on one rear upper wishbones sheared off (The nylon parts are still perfect) and because of that i lost a driveshaft But the car remained remarkably intact...Very much so a quick was down and it still looks box fresh. I am amazed as it was a heavy tumble. I am suitably impressed with the King motor. Only time will tell but other than regular breakages if the motor goes as my topic states...I'll swap out for brushless.
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