cubsfan2009

25% vintage Tamiya which is a original 80's Hotshot. Overall I'm 50% Tamiya with DF03 and HS. The other 50% is Traxxas.

All 7 of my lipo's exceed their rated mah on recharge. Double check your LVC just to be safe with 3v/cell under load being bare minimum. By the way over half of my lipo's are softpacks with zero issues.

Yes.

The slipper protects the diffs as much as the gears. The slipper should slip before the diffs do. If the slipper is too tight or not there then the diffs will slip, get hot and melt. I've been running automotive moly-graph grease on my alloy mainshaft and it has slowed the wear quite a bit. I just pop the top gear cover off every 10 runs and reapply a bit of it. Doesn't solve the problem, but it appears to be helping.

Just use a some duct tape or Gorilla tape to seal up the end.

They are the same. The BZ comes with foam cover to help keep dirt out. The BZ might have slightly more powerful magnets for extra torque, but in general they are the same. Someone else will have to chime in if this is a good motor for a Baja Champ. I could be wrong, but i seem to recall the BC has limited gearing choices and a Sport Tuned or Dirt Tuned work better.

A Df03 or DB01 are great buggies with advantage to the DB01. Go for a budget Ezrun setup in the 4000 to 5000 kv range. Forget about Nicad or NIMH and go Lipo. The brakes are in the form of the esc uses the motor as a brake. Usually one push of the throttle into reverse activates the brakes and a 2nd push gives reverse so only 2 channels are needed. One other possibility would be a Traxxas 1/16 Erevo VXL. Comes ready-to-run with a brushless motor and batteries (NIMH). This would make it easier to upgrade to a modern buggy without all the guess work and learning curve. It is also very fast and almost indestructible.

2 1/2 weeks is the longest I've had to wait. Generally it is only about 1 to 1 1/2 weeks once item was shipped. If the seller didn't send it registered mail then it will be hard to know where it is. Could be held up in customs for some reason. It also most likely will not go straight to your residence, but rather you will get a note from the P.O. that you need to sign for redelivery or pick up at the P.O.

Sensorless setups don't make good crawler systems. It can't tell it's rolling back. The Novak Goat is much better due to it's sensor based design and dedicated crawler focus.

Having both 1/10 and 1/8 scale vehicles I can say the the 1/8 is way better in terms of performance and go anywhere driving. More ground clearance and big wheels help with this. After driving a 1/8, a 1/10 vehicle almost seems toy like. The weight and larger size just makes them so much more stable and capable of just about anything. I agree that price is a big issue however. My E-revo cost $400 and requires 2 batteries to run. Two 6000mah lipos only get about 25 min runtimes. A brushless upgraded will cost another $250 and is necessary if you want really good performance as there is not any brushed motors that can do well pushing a 12 lbs. vehicle around at 30+ mph. I actually run a Dewalt 12v drill motor which does great, but i still want more. 40+ mph in 1/8 scale doesn't feel as fast as 1/10 does.

Read again what TA Mark said.

What about a Traxxas EVX-2 esc. It's waterproof if that matters. Otherwise a brushless setup would be nice. A Novak HV bl setup would be nice if it fit and would handle the weight of the TXT better with more torque than a standard bl 540 size motor.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a 6000kv motor on 3s lipo with that spur/pinion is geared for 61mph! Did I input something wrong?

The higher the C rating the more amps the battery can supply, but it will only supply what the motor/esc calls for. Example: If a motor capable of drawing 60 amps is hooked to a battery that can supply 100 amps the motor will only draw the 60 amps and the battery will easily give it. If the same motor is hooked to a battery capable of only 50 amps then the motor will still try to draw 60 amps and the battery will be overworked trying to give it. Usually you what use the 120% rule and have a battery that is capable of at least 20% more amps than what a motor can draw.

Lipo's are fine in water as long as it is fresh water. No salt water or the connections will corrode badly. Same goes for NIMH though. Lipo cells are sealed up airtight so no water will get to them. If they were not then the moisture in the air would ruin them. One area to be careful of is the balance tap. In theory the tap wires are so close together that the water could short them==> in theory. A balloon around the taps fixes that.