[Ford F-350 - 3 speed issue]

Thanks for all the tips and advice guys. I shall do as MadInventor says and reassemble and get the servo neutral position right.

[Ford F-350 - 3 speed issue]

@MadInventor. I think you may be right. As a novice at the 3 speed transmissions, I assumed I did something wrong, but as Twinset also suggested, it may be the servo position.

Anyway, as promised, here's my video: it seems to me it is indeed working fine by hand, do you guys agree?

 

[Ford F-350 - 3 speed issue]

I should have made it clearer, but that is someone else's video, not mine.

I have since removed the transmission/motor combo from the frame, removed a side cover, and to me everything seems fine. It shifts from 1 to 2 to 3 and back without a problem. So this is with the shift servo disconnected, and shifting done by hand. And if you let go, it goes to the 2nd gear by default.

I'll make a video of it soon and post it, so you guys can have a look too. I'll be back.

[Ford F-350 - 3 speed issue]

@Twinset: the shifting rod does actually travel all the way from left to right, and is only stopped by those c-clips on the rod. You basically get 1st gear, nothing, then 3rd gear, which takes up most of 2nd gear's 'space' as well. Sometimes instead of neutral you get a slight grind, of gears barely touching.

@Topforcein: I'm afraid you may be right. I think I followed it to the letter, but who knows. I've never built a gearbox before. My previous cars were a Boomerang, Super Clod Buster and Dark Impact.

In looking for a solution, I did come across a youtube video, in which someone had almost the exact same problem: (except my 3rd gear seems fine, but skipping 2nd)

Comments suggest it was: 'switched spools' or a loose 'grab screw'.

 

It's a shame the manual didn't suggest testing right after the gearbox assembly, instead of only after the servos were installed.

 

 

 

 

[Ford F-350 - 3 speed issue]

Hi,

I've been building an F-350 for a bit now, and have come to the stage that the mechanical and electrical stuff is pretty much done.

The manual now suggests I test the steering and shifting. Unfortunately, the shifting doesn't seem to be in order.

With my Futaba remote, I can shift the rod from left to center to right, but when using the accelerator, I only see two speeds. And I'm not sure which ones they are. 1 and 3? 1 and 2?

According to the remote's position: 1st gear gives me a slower speed, 3rd gear a higher speed. But 2nd either does not engage at all, or runs at the same speed as 3rd.

In short, my 3 speed has 2 speeds and a neutral (?).

Does anyone have experience with this, or some advice? I guess the only real option is to open the gearbox again, and see what's up, but I'd really rather not.

[New To Tamiyaclub]

Yep I totally understand, I don't do new builds......far too expensive for my liking....or my (dads) paypal.

Still want a terra scorcher more than anything.

dazaa

While checking Ebay for a new car, I found an old boomerang listed among the new ones. Search for 140304647201, and you'll find it. Might be interesting for you, though maybe a bit pricey sending it from US to UK.

[New To Tamiyaclub]

Welcome to the club.....get ready to speand everypenny you have on these toys...............

Sorry cannot help with any new buggys but I would love to buy your old boomerang if its forsale. I really want a smashed up one and have not had any luck so far.............

dazaa

Thanks. You know, I thought about it, but I don't think I'm ready to part with it. Its been around for 20 years, I'm sure you understand.

Can't you buy a new one and race around with it, so it gets a bit battered, or are you looking for a really old one?

[New To Tamiyaclub]

You can install an ESC in the Clod no problem. Rip out the MSC, and keep the power mode selector ('Power/Economy'). Wire the ESC through that and you only have to make one connection. It still gives you the option to run in economy mode. I wired mine this way because my 3 1/2 year old daughter occasionally drives and I want it going SLOW, but then she complains that it isn't as fast as her Lunchbox, LOL.

BTW, DudeWalker. How exactly do I go about doing that?

I just removed the MSC, which had 2 cables, spilt into 4: two going into the eco switch, and two into the engines.

And the ESC only has 2 engine cables.

Do those 2 go into each engine and do I leave the slots in the eco switch empty?

Or do I have to detach the two split cables from the MSC, and attach them to the ESC?

[New To Tamiyaclub]

DI is the same body (except wing) and a decal set and spare body cost me $25US. I really didn't like the MS decal sheet either, and used nearly all DI decals. The MS saves about $150 (or more) in hopups, so still infront after an extra body/decal set.

I'd only look at the MS if you want to fit fast motors. Alloy dampers, Slipper clutch and CVD driveshafts that are standard are must haves with hot motors and make up the difference in cost alone.

Don't get me wrong, the DI is an impressive kit too. I was actually quite surprised when I first fired up my DI as to how smooth and quick it was standard compared to the basic DF-02 or DF-01 kits. It's a matter of how many upgrades you are going to fit to it to whether it's the cost effective kit to buy.

My Dark Impact... Yellow DF-03 MS is my Avatar.

I think I'll go stock with my DI, so in that case the MS won't be worth it for me.

The picture of your DI must be from when it was brand new? Tires and body look really clean.

Also recognise your grass, struggling under the harsh Oz sun.

[New To Tamiyaclub]

Thanks Mark. I had a look at the DF-03 MS. It looks impressive, but I think I'll stick with the DI.

What I like about the appearance is that it reminds me of a redback, all black and a bit of red.

And thanks for the tip about the power selector, DudeWalker. That's a good idea.

[New To Tamiyaclub]

Hi, I recently joined the forum, my name's Vincent, and recently got back into the hobby.

My first car was a Boomerang, which I got as a kid back in 1988. I drove lots and lots of hours with it, and had a lot of fun. One day we went on a camping trip on a mountain, about 3kms up, and the car was never really the same. Not sure why.

And at some point a suspension brace broke, and it probably hasn't driven in about 19 years. It's really battered, every single joint and gearbox has a crack in it.

And in 2005 I got a super Clod, and after keeping it on my desk since then (I was reluctant to get it dirty...) I finally took it out for a spin a couple of days ago. It's a awesome car, even with stock parts. Really fast, and drives over almost everything. And the dogs love it too, they run after it and bark at it like there's no tomorrow.

And having decided my Boomerang is beyond repair, I was thinking of getting a new off-road similar to it. I was really happy to see that they'd re-released the Boomerang, but its still the same car basically, and would like something more modern.

I was thinking of getting the Dark Impact. Would you guys recommend the DI?

What I'm looking for is a new Boomerang type car, but more modern, and for some simple backyard fun, no racing.

I have a couple of other questions as well:

Discharger: would you recommend it?

ESC: are there cables available for connecting an ESC to the Clod's 2 engines?

ESC 2: is an ESC recommended over a mechanical SC?

Y thingy: what is the correct term for the Y/cable/splitter, that allows you to run two batteries parallel?

Thanks,

Vincent