Raelyn

While this seems like a good idea, it doesn't work so much as all boxes going out of the war zone have to be sealed in front of a USPS employee, and thus, they check them. Really it's all a matter of if the person on the other side of the counter is the 'gormless toad' type or not. One guy tried to help me and said there is no reason that they can't be sent, but "gormless toad-man" shot him a nasty look and said "I already TOLD him, those cannot be mailed." Le sigh.

I just came back from the post office, carrying $250 worth of 6 cell Nimh packs, because they refused to accept them in my box bound for hawaii (home). I am really upset because I am afraid now I am going to have to toss $250 in the garbage because the postal service is retarded. Considering they were sent here through the very same service on the very same planes and packaged in the very same boxes... ugh! Could anyone shed light on ANY reason they would not be willing to accept these batteries? I am leaving tomorrow for hawaii for R&R vacation and I was going to try and take them on the plane, but I am worried I will get hassled over them AGAIN by customs in Kuwait... ps. The REALLY annoying part is, this is a hit or miss thing. Depending on who you deal with at the post office. Some of them don't care, and barely look in your box, some of them unpack EVERYTHING and start reading labels desperate to find something, like it's a fun game to frustrate people because they packed a 3oz bottle of glue that says "flammable" on it.

I have the same problem with my receiver, I am not sure, but I assume you just have to solder it back onto your circuit board. I have not done this yet as my receiver is still getting about 50m of driving range without it, which is adequate for where I currently drive. I intend to fix or replace my receiver later. I was going to move to a receiver with the 2.4GHz-style hard plastic hinged antenna to avoid having to worry about the wire getting yanked out again.

New results testing. I just ran my TA01 for a total of 50 minutes (2 5000mah nimh packs), nonstop except for one shutdown to change batteries. After that 50 minutes, the ESC thermal'd. I would have to say, this is the longest I have run this car EVER. Mostly after 20 minutes I have either thermal'd the ESC, or threw a shock/turnbuckle/screw/dogbone, etc. 50 minutes of racing practice, only some minor bumps (low speed due to already braking to avoid collision). I'd say I finally got this car dialed in! I bet even that if I was back home, and not in this scorcher, I wouldn't have even thermal'd after the 50 minutes, and could have swapped a new battery and kept going! Final setup is the 16t/74t gearing, w/ heatsink around the motor and lowest timing advance from manual (via radio) mamba max ESC programming (all other settings kept at default) on 2.5inch racing slicks. I may toy with bringing the timing back up and lowering the punch (to reduce fishtailing?) once I get back home and the weather isn't so crazy! I will be on a plane back to hawaii for 2 weeks rest & relaxation in 9 more days! Thank you TA Mark, Lemming, Redzone and all others who have helped me through my newbie-ness!

I really like my TA01 for it's simplicity and not really looking forward to re-learning another chassis after I managed to fix all the little cons on it. However, I was toying with the idea of upgraded to a better tourer, preferably shaft driven, and was looking at the TB03. Anyone know what the min/max gear ratio possible is in the TB03, pros, cons? Is there another chassis that would be better for a on-road tourer? Like I said, I would prefer shaft drive 4WD.

I will take a look at Bolink, but I have a bad taste in my mouth from Parma. I ordered a body of their make and it was so horribly inaccurate, I refused to actually run it on my car.

Oi, yea, I am not a fan of the cayenne at all. So ugly. I probably will ebay it right off. I have a '86 trueno shell on my TA01 which I like alot. Although I wish I could find a body for some of the american cars I like. Fat chance in that though. Just not enough love for american shells in the RC market. Would love a 64 nova shell though.

The gearbox fix is working great, have had NO problems with the rear shock tower since! Let's just hope the mount holes don't break off like they did on my last rear gearbox. Or they could, I guess that will give me an excuse to order a Porsche Cayenne DF-01, I wanted to swap in black gearboxes anyway for aesthetic purposes.

Lol, ok, but as far as factory standard specs, they are the same?

I have a Mabuchi 540 silvercan motor and some "Johnson" 540 silvercans, is there a difference in these?

Just popped my rear gearcover, and alas, my gears are already stripping again. After running a third battery since installing all new gears and a brand new slipper clutch kit, my gears are showing VERY noticable teeth wear in the SAME area as before and my grease is a nasty grey color. Dark Impact.. worthless. Me.. annoyed.

Another note on this, currently the only pinion I have that will fit in a DF03 is 26t, and I only have the two spurs that come with the kit, 78t and 85t I believe they are. So, if the 26t/85t makes for a 9.99:1 FDR, that's the lowest I can get the FDR, and it is the same FDR I was running when my gears were stripped before.

Ok, I have the blue heatsinked motor mount and I have trimmed the plastic inside the motor area and the 26t pinion fits with 85t spur with room to spare, so I know it's not too tight, paper thickness apart, right? Ok, it may just be the FDR that is heating the motor and ESC. I was having troubles with my tamiya connectors a bit, so I re-soldered them, since I don't have any deans or anything to convert right now. And tested again, and was able to drive down two whole batteries without thermalling. I am not sure, but by touch, I think my heat was in safe levels on both ESC and motor at the end of the 2 batteries, so that may have been part of the problem. The TZ motor feels weak, but that may be simply because I got used to my brushless motor.

I just tried my MC330 and TZ motor in my DF03, using 26T/85T and a 5000mah nimh pack which resulted in ALOT of heat to ESC and motor while bashing on packed dirt and a thermal shutdown after 5-6 minutes. Any idea why?

Yea, that's the one! I got everything hooked up and it's driveable now.. except for one thing BAH! Traxxas uses different size wheel hubs, and all I have is wheels to fit on 12mm hex hubs. Man, and I was excited too. Maybe I can find someone out here with some traxxas wheels and tires they will sell me. Hmm, I know a guy with a Revo he never drives.