Jozza(2)

I've checked it out, and I can confirm that is the case, a 40meg AM transmitter will interfere with a 40MHz FM or 40MHz PCM one on the same crystal. (The best link I can find is a Google search, http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&ie=UT...interfere&meta= which brings up the information on a cached page, but my local car club organiser confirms this too, so I assume it's correct). Ah, just found another, it's about boats but confirms the same info: http://www.ann-neil.supanet.com/What%20happens.pdf (See page 13)

Yep. Well I was, now you've made me wonder [:0] I will check it out.....

That's nice terry.sc [8D] I like the way you've done the flames at the back too, a bit different to all the other flame jobs I've seen with the flames at the front.

How long it will last depends on a lot of factors, is it a touring car running on tarmac or an offroader, does it have an ESC or the speed controller included, how many corners you are taking and so on all have an effect. I've found that you get better runtimes from battery packs once they have been charged and discharged a few times too, the first few goes with a new pack never seem to last as long or give as much power.

I'm thinking about replacing the motors in the Baja Champ and Mad Bulls with LRP Buggy Specials, as they are fairly cheap. Is 21000rpm a lot better than the speed of the standard Mabuchi 540 supplied with the Tamiya kits?

I bought a fairly simple single-action internal mix Badger airbrush to start with, it's good quality and is doing me well (I think it was about 40 quid). I will probably upgrade to a double-action one soon. My compressor was one from Homebase, with a nail gun, they were selling them half price (50 quid) so I picked one up. It's a bit noisy when it pressurises though, but works a treat, and I've got a nail gun to nail lots of things together (completely pointless tool, but good fun []) One idea I looked at was to get a CO2 bottle from a builders merchant. You can get an adapter for these for most airbrushes (Badger included). A charged bottle will last for ages, and it's got the advantage of being silent, and provides a better pressure than the little cans. Overall, you will get a much better finish with the 'brush though, even using the cans of compressed air. And there are some techniques which you can't do at all with a can.....

quote: Originally posted by The Slayer Can i bring my 959? - is that vintage enough [] But do I have to bring my own cotton wool?? If it's finished [8)] id="quote">id="quote"> I don't think there's any problem there Carolyn, according to netsmith the categories are very loose, and the cars don't have to all be vintage: quote:If you want to see how loose the categories are take a look at this photo http://www.tamiyaclub.com/getuserimage.asp...200371329_2.jpg Just behind the ferrari was a mini. id="quote">id="quote"> We (me and my lads) will be bringing a Mini, 3 Mad Bulls, a Twin Detonator, and any other Tamiyas which I buy/build between now and the end of the month, we'll be driving them and looking at and admiring the vintage cars there.

If it's a Lexan (transparent) body, you could get some precut masks from Parma from your local modelshop to help. (www.parmapse.com) Or, get the internal flames decal from XXXMain, then paint the black over the top and job's done. The decals stick on the inside of the car, so look just like paintwork. If it's a solid one, you could paint it and then get some vinyl flame stickers from Parma. If you want to learn how to do it from scratch see Balak Racing site for examples (read the one about molten lava first and follow the same principles for doing flames).

Cans will always spray the body, the room, your arms, your hair, the cat...... [] An airbrush will minimise this, as you hold it a lot closer to the body you're painting, and therefore there is a lot less overspray. If you don't have access to a workshop (poor thing, I do []) then the worst part is going to be the smell of the solvent, which is nasty. To avoid this, you could try Faskolor paints which are water based and don't smell at all. However, I've tried them, and they are not as easy to use as the solvent based paints. You would need to be using a compressor rather than the tins of air to get success with these. Regarding the spraybooth, note that if you use a vacuum cleaner to remove the paint overspray particles, it might damage the filters, so it's best to get a cheapo one for this purpose and not use the family Dyson [xx(] I recommend an airbrush, if you get a reasonable one and practice with it you will find it much more rewarding than cans, and I am using mine more and more now for car bodies, but also other modelling, and also other spraying jobs around the house.

Actually Mr Pushrod, I know it was a joke, but I think that you might have a point there, it would avoid backforce from damaging the gears and motor. Think I might glue them anyway and see what happens!

When we went to spectate at the Tamiya Eurocup last year, the "offroad track" appeared to be a rectangle of grass with a ditch in it for a jump. And that's about it. I'm sure that with the addition of some cones/rope/firehose/ramps we could put together a reasonable offroad circuit though. If enough of us can bring a lump of ply and a couple of bricks/block of wood for makeshift ramps, then we should be able to sort out a bashing track. I want something to test my new Twin Detonator on [8D]

Good for you Andrew, I'm glad that the more positive comments coming through have changed your mind. We're going to all have a good time whatever the rules []. I'm looking forward to meeting everyone!

I notice on the Twin Detonator manuals that it says NOT to glue the tyres. Anyone know why, I would've thought it would be far better to super glue them to the rims?

Yep, well put terry, like I said before, I'm looking forward to running the cars on a track, and not having the intense competition that you get with the race meetings. I'm surprised at those who say they won't be going because of the trading ban, and also agree that it's more likely to do with the trading laws that the track owner will be responsible for than the fact that he runs a shop. And if that's what the owner's decided, that's what we have to abide by. Not a big deal IMO, whoever wants to trade stuff will be able to do it subtly or after the day's action..

I'm not sure if talking's allowed, we'll have to play it by ear when we get there. I'm learning morse code and bringing a torch just in case [] I'll bring my little walkie talkie toys, sorry I meant to say essential equipment, with me too Wireless. Then we can do watch so we can warn if the rozzers are on the way to the car park bring 'n buy [}]

I'm 40AM. But the frequencies for AM/FM are the same so it doesn't make a difference, 40.675AM couldn't run at the same time as 40.675FM

quote:Originally posted by WirelessPS : Anyone bringing PMR446 Walkie Talkies...? UKClaire and I will have ours. Heh heh wireless trading. [}] id="quote">id="quote">What's PMR446, is that the ones that work on the 446mhz band? I just picked up a pair today, so that my wife can call me when I'm in the workshop at the end of the garden (and so that I can call for the kettle to be put on too) []

It's not a big deal if there's no trading of stuff at the track. It shouldn't be difficult to do trading at the hotel, or at a venue close to the track, and if people have lists of what they've got, then offers can be made and the readies and goods swapped later on. I'm sure that trades can be done by The fun will be in having a relaxed run of our cars, without all the pressure you get from running R/C cars in club racing these days, and to have a couple of enjoyable days meeting like minded people! Yes, a trade ban maybe a bit of a pain, but I don't think it should be enough to make people cancel. Running some cars round the Snet track for fun is what I'm coming for, and to see (and not necessarily buy) some fine examples of vintage Tamiyas. I haven't got the cash or inclination to restore some of these old runners, so I'm really looking forward to seeing/chatting about them with the other TC club guys. With a couple of homemade ramps and some cones laid out, even the offroad track might be fine for some buggy fun too...

That's handy. The TRF flourine coated ones look like they are pretty nice []

Chris, there's an option you could try before binning them. I got "70mm" Carson shocks for the Baja Champ, but they were 85mm long. Seems that Carson's steel rule's aren't as accurate as they could be []) So I then got some others which were shorter and changed the bottom bits for the Tamiya ones, which increased them to the perfect length for the Champ. I've just got a Twin Detonator, which takes the same size shocks as the Champ. As an experiment, I popped the TD springs onto the overlength Carson shocks, and found that this shortened them to the correct length. As the Carsons are threaded, I've been able to preload the stock springs as they are a bit shorter. The only downside is that there will be slightly less travel on the suspension than the stock friction dampers, but it's only a couple of mm so shouldn't really make a difference to the handling. Try fitting the springs from the Tamiya onto the Carsons and see if it makes a difference, it might shorten them sufficiently. Another thing I do is to pack the bolts on the top damper mountings with a bit of electrical tape; it stops them from rattling. Some of the Carson shocks do come with rubber bushes for this purpose, but not all of them..... See this topic for my 70mm shock moanings; I will be updating it soon with the above info! John

It's just the way NimHs are. Nicds are quite happy to remain completely discharged, sometimes for years, and they will charge up fine. NimHs will drain themeselves, and if they are stored dead for too long, they will be dead for good. Advantage is that NimHs don't suffer the memory effect of Nicds, which means you can partially charge them a day or 2 before using them, and then just top them up when you want to use them, so you can charge a lot more packs ready for play! Dischargers which are not made specifically for NimHs can damage them. I would recommend a cheap (£11.95 ish) discharger that does NimHs, or a battery charger with a NimH discharge function.. Nicds are generally more punchy than NimHs though, but I haven't really noticed a difference between good quality 2400 Nicds and good quality 3000 NimHs in the way of speed/punch.

I used to cut then paint. Now I've got an airbrush and a bit more experience, I paint then cut. I do the body post holes before painting though. I find that it helps to keep the cutting till later, as the body stays stiffer when you are painting it, and I find it easier to hold it by the edges of the Lexan which will be scrap. I haven't found any problem with paint coming off when cutting, so long as you rough the body inside and make sure it is scrupulously clean before painting, and leave it to dry a couple of days before cutting.. It's really just down to personal preference, do whichever you feel happy with!

You can run Mtronics ones under water, as they are completely resin sealed. They seem to have a reputation for blowing up, but I think this is unfounded, and often seems to be touted by people who have put a rebuildable stock motor on the ECO27 or ECO20, which are real low-range models and not designed for that sort of usage. The higher up Mtronics will cope with no-limit to turns, and more powerful battery/motor combinations.

Depends what motor you are going to upgrade to. I wouldn't recommend a 19 or 12 turn, as these are extremely fast, and need regular maintenance to keep them working, which if you are new to it all would be expensive and possibly time-consuming. If you invest about £40 in an electronic speed controller, it will handle 27 turn rebuildable stock motors like the P2K2. Makes such as LRP, Nosram spring to mind (Nosram Tomahawk, LRP Runner Plus are both about £40). The rebuildable 27 turn stock motors run a lot faster than the stock motor supplied with the Tamiya cars, and will provide more torque too. They do require maintenance as mentioned above, brushes need to be changed and every now and then the motor should be dismantled and cleaned and skimmed. Most model shops can do this for you, charges vary from £5 to £10. One other thing, if you are going to change the motor to a rebuildable stock one, I suggest that you also change the Tamiya connectors on the battery pack for Deans connectors. The race motors draw a lot more current, and this can melt the Tamiya connectors.

40.675, 40.795 and 40.705 for me, and any 27 apart from yellow cos our yellow crystal set is not working. (That's assuming I've got the 40 meg receivers into my cars by then!)