Jozza(2)

I've just got some Carson shocks for the Baja Champ, but they were more like 80mm long than the 70mm they should be. I've fitted them to the 'Champ, but had to fit them onto the outer mounting points on the suspension arms. I was wondering if this would have any adverse effect on the handling. I've driven it with the shocks fitted there, and it's okay, but doesn't seem as precise on the steering as it was before.. Also, as these shocks are almost 10mm longer, are they actually the right ones, should I send them back to where I got them from? The Carson ref is C54926, I've taken a look at Carson's German site, but I don't know much German so gave up trying to find details. See the pics below for details, putting the shocks in the same position as the originals made the car too high and the toe-in too great.. Any info/suggestions would be appreciated! (These pics are low definition, for bigger more bandwidth hungry but better detailed ones, see here The original Baja Champ shocks are 70mm long.. .. but the Carson ones arent..... When the shocks are fitted to the inner position on the suspension arms, the car sits too high and the front toe-in is far too much.. With the shocks fitted to the outer positions, the ride height seems okay and the toe-in is better. Thanks for any ideas! J

Tamiyapunk, when you've finished building that Mini with those parts, it will fly [^] Make sure you let us know how it turns out!

I too discovered "score and tear" recently, and that's how I've done the last couple of bodies. The compass cutter is a superb tool for cutting out wheelarches (as long as they are actually circular, not all are). I finish off straight sections with a light sanding using a sanding block and finishing paper (designed for paint but it seems to do the trick on lexan), and for wheel arches I use the same paper wrapped around a thick piece of dowel.

Ouch! That's a couple of nasty scratches. Is it a Lexan shell, if not then at least it's repairable.. Mooplea, that's a nasty scratch you got on your buggy too, think it might take a bit more than some car filler to sort that one out []

I was tempted to go the Halfords route. But the Tamiya paints do leave a superb finish, and you know that they won't burn the plastic or flake off, so I used them in the end. It's only an extra quid or so for each can, and you don't need to prime (though you will arguably get a better finish if you do prime first). If you want to use car paints, an acrylic primer would probably be fine. Best to test it first on the underneath of the driver where it won't matter if it melts a bit (not sure that you would get a driver with the Hauler, but I think you can buy the Tamiya drivers on there own, and it's cheaper than risking the Hauler body). I would say go for the Tamiya paints, you can't really go wrong with them..

There is an issue with Sanyo 3000 sticks giving a false peak reading when they are a bit chilly. See http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/pro-trak/s3000.htm for details. I found this was happening, so as an experiment I heated up a pack to about 25 degrees and charged it, and it charged perfectly. I now charge at around 4a, then repeak the batteries with the Supernova, and it's done them a treat. We used them tonight for racing and no probs at all, whereas before they only were giving a couple of mins running before dying.

I'd agree with fury_dice - I don't think it's necessary to go down from a stock 27 turn, just get something decent like an Orion Core Pro or Trinity, which will give you higher revs and torque than the kit motor.. A cheap ESC should suffice (I use MTronics ECO27 with the kit motor, but the ECO20 would be better if you are using a different one. Also, Ripmax do one which I use, costs about £45 and is the dogs doo-dads). Make sure the Mini is fully ballraced, replace the shockers with oil filled and add the Manta Ray ball diff, and it will fly. My little mini is mad even with the Tamiya stock motor, but the other stocks tend to run a bit faster and are more powerful. But if you really want it to fly, try a 19 or 17 turn motor.. Oh, and make sure you have some new spare tyres pre-ordered. They wont last long!

I'm 38 - It's great getting back into this hobby now, got more money to buy the toys, and more experience to build them better. Only trouble is that with responsibility comes less time to play with them..

Difficult one that. My lad thinks that the people who collect the cars and never run them are nuts. But then those people think that people like me who run them are nuts. I can see both points, I like collecting things which I can also play with, but do sometimes feel pain when I scratch and dent the models, I also think that most of the Tamiya kits are models in their own right, and are as at home on a display shelf as out on the road/mud. At the end of the day, they are your cars, your collection, so it's your choice whether or not to run them. Twmaster has the right idea, 2 of each, a shelf queen and a runner, but that's too expensive for me to do. I find that these days I enjoy the construction and painting as much as driving the cars too, when I was younger I didn't want to spend so much time building and perfecting them. I must admit that I don't understand people collecting NIB and never building them; I don't think I would ever have the self control to do that! At the end of the day, any collecting could be considered a sickness, as there's no real point to it, and it's a compulsive sort of behaviour. But it is fun []

I've found out why my 3000 sticks aren't charging properly, it's to do with the temparature apparently! http://www.users.zetnet.co.uk/pro-trak/s3000.htm gives an explanation of it, so it seems that the best way to charge NimH cells/sticks is in a sauna []

Thanks for the heads-up on the tyres, I'll have a hunt and find me a set ready for when mine are worn (shouldn't be long []). Looking forward to seeing your Italian Job Mini, I love these little cars (my first real car was a 1965 Mini and great fun).

Hi Twinset, I think that you could perhaps have made it clearer that it might be a non-runner (just saying it's not tested doesn't mean it might not work to a lot of people). Apart from that though, I'm amazed that someone would bid on the item as shown for an 8 year old, whether or not he knows anything about R/C cars. The photos clearly show it's not RTR, and buying a Nitro for a kid's first car is just mad. Buying at auction (online or real life) is not for people who aren't experienced in the goods they are bidding on. I think that your offer to refund is most generous, and I don't see why you have to stand the postage, I would personally have got the guy to return the goods, for a refund minus the original postage cost. John

Just reading the article mentioned by fatboyslim, it looks very good:- http://www.rccaraction.com/rc/articles/NiMHbatcare1.asp

There's a good forum and FAQ on batteries and chargers here:- http://www.rcracechat.com/forum/index.php?...y;threadid=1846 Dunno if it specifically answers the questions in this thread, I've only just learnt how to use my new soopa-doopa charger so now I need to find out how to treat my new batteries too! John

Update The Mini has been out again today, and now I need to swap the tyres around cos 1 is almost bald [:0] So a set of tyres is going to last about 8 rides before they need replacing, sheesh - think I need to find a cheap supplier for them!

I agree with the wheels, but it's a sort of theme I've got going - painted the Baja Champ wheels gold, and I'm doing the same for each Tamiya I get (cos I've got a massive tub of gold paint to use up now[]) I think they look better than the grey colour that they were out of the box though, they looked terrible!

There are 2 version of the Ripmax Varipulse (can't remember the numbers) but the only one suitable for NimH cells is the one with the black dial on the front for setting the charging current. (Varipulse 2500 VP). It will do 3000 sticks, and the max output on the mains is 3A so it will be safe. Like wriggleandgiggle says, you shouldn't charge NimH cells at more than 1C (so 3A for a 3000 NimH pack is the max). I'm not too sure about NimH packs - I've got a couple of 3000 sticks and they don't seem to last as long as Nicds or be as punchy. I've heard that they need a few charges to "excercise" them though, so I won't pass judgement until they've been used a few times, but with the current price of 2400 Nicd sticks, I think that I might use them for my off roaders..

Thanks for the praise Mike! I think it's a superb looking little car, and it went out for it's first run yesterday - what a blast! Great fun to drive, but I see what people are saying about tyres now, it wheelspins on the tarmac like mad, and I've already got wear on the front boots! Unfortunately the pinion came loose after a few mins (that always seems to happen to me the first time out, then I tighten it and it never needs attention again, must be a bedding-in thing), so I didn't get a long go. But I took it home, tightened it up and got another good 20 mins+ on the lawn. So in my reckoning that's well over half an hours drive from a 2000 Nicd pack, amazing. I only get about 10 mins on the Baja Champ on the same pack! Matt (my lad) is hooked on the idea of getting a Mini too now, looks like that's Christmas sorted then [8D]

quote:Originally posted by mud4funChris, does the club have any TC stickers? id="quote">id="quote">That sounds a good idea, a few TC vinyl decals in different sizes. If I could get some, I would even stick a couple on my club Sch*macher too []

Can you post a photo of one of them? I haven't got one of those, but it might be that they are a branded version of another one like a Ripmax or something, and if so I could post instructions for that. (I've seen a few which look spookily like the Ripmax ones).. J

Just took another look at the pics. Dear Santa, for Christmas, can I please have A Tamiya TNX Nitro A Tamiya Blackfoot Extreme A Mini-Z Monster Hop Up Kit [] (I've been thinking about a Nitro off-roader for a while, and the Tamiya one looks much nicer than the ones by other manufacturers).

Some collectors like to see the cars done in the original box paint colors and the decals matching too. Most Tamiya kits have extra decals, and the manuals normally say that the pictures in the manual and on the box are ideas, and not gospel. It's really a case of what you like as a collector, and whether you are looking at a completely authentic resto. As bholio says, it's unlikely to affect the value of a car in the future, so if you're the kind of collector who likes 100% authenticity, you should follow the box design, otherwise do what looks good. Having said all that, I have just noticed a set of decals on ebay for a lot of money due to their rarity/collectibility, so maybe the decals used could affect the value of a car later on! J

quote:Originally posted by Not2NightDoes anyone know if LEDs can be inserted (drill a hole in the bottom) into the police light bar that comes with the CHEVY CAPRICE body by PARMA? id="quote">id="quote">I've got a whole article on doing this - it's in a book (Painting and Detailing RC Bodies) which is a collection of articles from guys who write for Radio Control Car Action and Radio Control Nitro mags (US Mags I think).. The book ref is ISBN 0-911295-54-2 and one of the articles is a complete paintjob on a Parma Chevy Caprice with the flashing lights too..Might be a help.. the circuit for the lights is simple though, any electronics store like Tandy in the US or Maplins in the uk will be able to provide the parts for less than $20/£10. John

... till I get a showroom sorted out, in the meantime here's some pics of my little Mini. Not the best paintjob in the world I'd be the first to admit (only after I painstakingly did the checkers with masking tape did I find out that you can buy internal decals to do it []), but I'm happy with the overall look. Haven't driven it properly yet, just a quick test in the back yard, but hopefully it will be introduced to Tesco's tarmac tomorrow! http://www.cosmic-cat.co.uk/photo_album/rc...per/default.asp J

I thought that might be the case, so is it safe to cut my wire in half I wonder? Think I might just leave it, as the Mini chassis has a convenient bit under the receiver where I have stuffed the extra wire, and it doesn't seem to have affected the range, so I'll probably just play it safe. J