Tessa Maloo

Hey there Henk4Focus how u doing? Dont know if this info will help you, but i had similar probloms when i built my high lift hilux from scratch. I believe if the bearings wernt glued in place you may select gears randomly but not with any continuity. However i had a post in " General Discussions"(think on about page 4,5,6 by now) under heading ""High Lift Transmission Selection Probloms... Help Please"" If you look up this disscussion / topic it may help as i had suggestions from various members that offered myself help. In the end i found help through a local hobby shop who'm one of the opperators had built one previously and in person was able to help me diagnose the problom. The symptems you describe a very similar to probloms i had at differnt stages in the stages before fixing my problom. I hope this is of help to you. Just look under my name "Tessa Maloo" . Ben.

They say on the site they are for the rear of the hilux, f350, can they be used also on the front or does this cause issues with the steering geometry? AS this retains the Leaf springs in the kit and the 4-link setup deletes the need for the leaves, which offers better articulation? Can the Leaves be swapped for Scale Rc soft springs? does this then acheive more flex? is the M link settup for keeping the scale appearnce of leaves where the 4 link dosnt use?

Hey Terry.sc thanks heaps for the Shodogs tip. Wish i had read before starting. lots of common sense but is simple an easy to make sense off and if i had thort about it instead of rushing it. Cheers.

Hey Twisty yeah you right. Is hard not to rush it. I had 5 days over easter and prob got to eager and just tried to acheive tio much to quickly. Am thinking that your suggestion of light sanding with fine wet n dry o remove ghosting marks in white paint. To Bluefoot yeah thanks also for your response. I need a bit of paitents. i initially used 3m tape before any paint ad been appleid the shell. After my first layer of paint went on i have been using tamiya tape. It does work alot better. The only real areas ive since had trouble with seapage is where the guards roll up and out. The straight edges are fine. The glad wrap idear is a good one and hadnt heard that before. I will give it a try next time round. Thanks to you both for someone whos sorta new to this as although i have done in the past it never hurts to be remined of the basics and paitients. I know the questions on varying topics can get monotinous but i thankyou both for being paitient with my questions.

Hey there im just after any painting tips for tamiya hard plastic bodies. Ive done my first go at spraying 2 colours on my tamiya hilux shell. I used good quality 3m tape to mask of areas i didnt want to paint and then painted the first colour which was dark. after removing tape i had a few partial spots of seapage from the paint. I used tamiya painting masking tape to tape over new dark colour and masked off large ares with paper and tape. After lighter colour applied (white i again removed tape and had a few small seepage marks but somehow tape spray had got under some pepered areas. Again i used tamiya tape tpo re mask light area and sprayed over original dark area to fix spray that had got under paper area. after removing tape from 2nd area that was white area agian i had minor seapage marks . Is there firstly anyway to remove slight darker overspray on lighter colour? Is brushing over my only option apart from respray ? Also the tape i removed from the white area has left tape marks on the painted white. Not so much gum as such more ghostly lines of where tape had been if that make sense. Any suggestions?

Hey there i just wished to enquire about a few things to do with a bruiser Restoration, Is there any companys you guys know of that do repo decals for the bruiser that are good quality or will ship/ post internationalyy, Im in Australia? Can anyone tell me the original colour Blue that the Bruiser was painted and the colour code if you know it also please? Also i realise parts are available frequantly on ebay but are there any manurfactures that specifically or sites that reproduce miscilanous bruiser body parts, ie lights, mirror, number plates, tail lights, windscreens etc Annone that can offer advice it would be appreciated, Thanks, Ben.

hey BiggusDitchus the irony is i only had juswt posted a question about this kit and as u responded to me you had put your review up. Cheers for that. May i ask where abouts are you and did you purchase locally or over the Net. Im in Australia and have only seen a site via ebay in korea to purchase this kit. Your conversion makes me want to do it but i may have to wait a lil while until i get some extra cash toi get shocks as well. Gd pics and info, Thanks

Hey there just wondering has anyone used the Junfac 4 Link suspension upgrade that is available for the High Lift Hilux, F350? The kit says comes with everything needed for the conversion. Parts not included but are in kit are L1 and L10. It also mentions universal joints and shocks arnt includeded onthe site i went to. Just wondering does anyone know if the kit works with the standard shocks and driveshafts.? Is it a good kit? 4 link kit i mean. Are there any other 4 link kits available as i havnt got much experiance in modifying it by myself. Thanks for any help anyone can offer.

Hey there thankyou to to all those who offered me help and advice. its always hard to diagnose probloms over the net when you cant see whats happening and only going off a descrition. On thursday night i was able to catch up with one of the guys at Barclays hobbies that has owned, built and run his own high lift. This proved usefull as could show him the problom. Was partially my fault and in experiance and a missing part. The radio gear im using was out of my bruiser and is about 20 plus years old. Stil works fine however the transmitter has no limits or end point settings (hope that right terminology). As a result the shift of the transmission was moving the servo horn a lil bit further on each change than was required. The second part of the problom was i was running a high tech servo Barclays had sold me for the shift servo, however the salesman that originally sold me didnt know there was an adaptor to sit on the servo to suit tamiya servo horns in the kit. I had been using a Acoms / Sanwa servo horn which on the hi tech servo was a good tight fit. However i didnt know it wasnt an exact fit and as a result when my transmitter was moving the servo horn further than it was required it was maybe slipping one notch on the servo. After a couple times it was actually moving fractionly from where it was susspossed to be and when was shifting the horn to far this was causing the shift rod to pull out of the ball connector on the servo or the the shift mechanism. To compinsate for the increased movment in the transmiiter we moved the ball connector in the servo horn one hole closer to the servo thus making the horn move less than the manual states . These things combined i did not know to look for and it has given me a sigh of releif of not having to strip the gear box down and start again. I tried this out tonight and it seems to be working fine now. Hopefully touchwood it continues to do so and i can get on with getting the body painted and starting to modify the chassis as i learn more. I hope this info is valuable to someone else in here if they ever experiance simmilar probloms.

Adjusted the clutch as u described and got some btter sucsess. Got drive in all 4 gears and had torque to wheels. However it still isnt engaging gears cleannly eavery time and on occasion clutch sometimes seems to still slip. Is there any way or thing that could cause the clutch to slip or maybe i havnt assembeed correctly in some manner im unaware of?

Will try what u mentioned about adjusting the clutch. Thanks for that. Yes i can adjust gears correctly using finger to move the selector and get good drive in each gear. Mind you have only done on my lap, not on floor with truck running.

Hey guys, thanks for the help. Im stil not out of the woods. Have played around with positioning the servo horn in slightly differnt positions on the servo and either get as i mentioned 2 spds with torque to wheels or 3 spd that work perfect on my lap but fail to offer any torque to wheels when on floor right way up. will keep persisting and if i find a solution ill let you know. Idf anyone has any other idears im welcome to hear them. I do also have more than 5mm movement in the servos. Alos is there any way to cheat and adjust the slipper clutch with out pulling the gearbox assembly out of the chassis? Thanks Ben.

Thanks for the help so far. Im not out of the woods yet but have had some mixed sucsess tonight. Have managed playing around with different sevrvo horns and positioning of the horns on the servo in getting the correct opperation of the gear selector compared to the manual however im stil in need of some more advice if thats ok. I got low and mid working corectly but no hi and in driving truck on floor 2 spds were gained but the top wouldnt mesh but in driving i had torque going through wheels to get over a shoe or my foot. Later i got positions of all 3 gears operating as in manual but on putting on floor althogh i have 3 differnt spds that do mesh i have no torque as such in wheels. I asume may have something to do with sliper clutch. I mean if i put a shoe or my foot in front of truck the motor spins freely as revs increase but there is no drive as such over foot or show but when i move obstacle truck moves again. When truck held on my lap all seems good. This is in comparisson to when i had only 2 speeds opperating and i had torque at the wheels. Any suggestiuons? ay no stage have i changed setting on slipper clutch other than what suggested in manual. Thanks, Ben.

Yes did Glue in bearings as you mentioned. The radio gear im using is Jr gear which i had in my Bruiser. It works fine shifting gears etc in this. The only difference is the Bruiser has jr servos, where the high lift i have a basic Hi Tec servo as i didnt want to strip the servos out of the bruiser so as it stays in running condition, although it isnt driven often. Yeah s i mentioned i followed the manula to the letter and compared the actal rods to the plqans. Yes also the rod did strip out of the connector when i moved the ball nut in the servo horn from the middle position to the end position.

Hey there im hoping someone in here maybe able to help me or offer some advice. Im in Australia and have asked both the hobby shop i purchased from and the tamiya importer of how to solve this problom but so far to no avail. I built the Tamiya high lift Hilux as per the instructions supilied. At the point where i ma required to test the operation of the servo for the gear change of the transmission is where the probloms start. when moving the selecter stick on the transmiter left or right to engage the servo and move the servo horn which moves the small rod with the ball connectors on it that attaches to the transmission via a ball joint type connection on teh slector shaft. The positions that the manual shows to be the correct positions for selecting the 3 geasr do not correspond with the actual movment of the shaft. IN the diaqgrqam that shows selecting top gear it shows the shaft selctor hard against the gearbox housing. In this posituion on my truck its approximatlly 4mm away from the housing thus not allowing a clean engaging tof the gears. In all 3 positions this is alos out by roughly the same amount. It runs most of the time cleanly in 2nd gear however. AS the selector with the ball joint attachment is held in position on the selector shaft by a C clip or E clip on either side this does not allow for a different placment on te shaft. The importer for tamiya put me onto their service departmant which is Castle Hill Hobbies in NSW. SAfter speaking to them they had mentioned similar probloms previously alos. They suggested a longer servo horn. As this with the mounting of the shift rod between the servo and the selector rod would give a longer throw and there fore acheieve what the manual shows. In the manual the factory servo horn suppleid with the kit shows the fixxing of the ball joint fore the servo horn in the middle. I moved the position to the tip end of the horn. Althogh this helped going into top gear, when going the other direction into low gear it stripped the rod and the ball joint conection from each other leaving the rod from the servo stil attached to the servo ok but at the other end was just the threaded rod and the ball joint connector attached to the ball joint on the selector shaft. i hope this makes sense to someone without and diagrams but as the local shops cant help me im hoping someone in here can offer advive or solutions if they have had similar probloms. Thanks, Ben.

Hey there thanks to those who answered my bruiser enquiries. I got myself a highlift hilux and in process of building it. Am setting the springs up for soft seting for crawling and slow running. Just wanted some advice on the setup for the shocks as the manual is a li lvague on the softer settings. It says to use more damper oil and less o rings. I think its my understanding the more o rings used the firmer the ride. Is this correct? Also do the shocks require at least one o ring for soft running? I also read on a site of another user who i cant remeber the details off suggessted not installing the springs inside the shock and just using the damper oil. Is this recomeneded? or are there any pros and cons to doing this? Any help / advice would be appreciated. Thanks. Ben.

Hey there i just wished to enquire can anyone tell me is the bruiser body the same as the high lift hilux. As these bodies are not easy to come by i have nothig to compoare to. I have a bruiser with a cracked windscreen. I know there are reproductions around that i can buy on ebay. I just wished to know in the short term though are the new high lift windscreens the same as the old bruiser windscreen and can i substitute the new high lift windscreen into a Bruiser? Thanks for your help.

Hey Guys, thankyou for your response. I may have come accross wrong. Im not after to fix up and sell. I want to keep it and baisically keep for shelf. I just didnt want to ruin it original state as a collecters item. If i do as you suggest and lotsa elbow grease and polish it up if i did this would it better to leave as is condition or to start from scratch. I realsise these are collectable to alot of people and i just didnt want to ruin its original state if its better to leave is , if that make sense. Ben.

Hey there im a newbie to this forum, I just wished to enquire and get some advice. I have a working vintage bruiser ive had for nearly 20 years. I originally purchassed it off a father that had baught it for his 13 year old son, So when i got hold it off it , it had been drivven pretty hard. I want to restore but have anumber of questions. 1. The shell was painted in the original blue colour but was a rush job and average quality including a few runs in places. It has all original stickers although a couple a starting to lift. No headlights, tail lights, Mirrors, Number plates and a crack in the windscreen. The car runs ok in all gears but dosnt synchco correctly in 4wd mode all the time. Both 2wd modes work well. 2. In referance to restoring is it better to order or find missing bits and leave as is? 3. Is it better to strip stickers off, remove old paint and put original colours back on or own coulour scheme without re using old stickers? 4. Id liketo clean up and do a good paintjob but am unsure if is better to leave in original condition baisically or do up like new in term sof its value. Any Help would be appreciated. Thankyou.