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agentsmith23

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Everything posted by agentsmith23

  1. I drained it again by running the truck dead. This time I didn't stop the charger and it peaked at 3865mah. It was hotter than I had felt it before. Thanks for the advice!
  2. I had the stock 17t but it went bad back in the 90's when I last used the car. When i bought a parts car it had the 21t pinion and that's why I have been using that one. I guess I will have the problem solved tomorrow night!
  3. I will let it go till it actually peaks next time. I was just afraid to damage the battery before. Do yours normally get warm?
  4. I just got my peak charger today in the mail, it is a dynamite Prophet Plus LCD. The first time I charged my battery with it I made sure it was drained completely with my old charger which is a Hobbico 905. The battery I am charging is a radioshack 3300mah. I set the charger for 3.3A and kept an eye on the mah that was being put into the battery and it went all the way to 3400mah and it was still going and I decided to stop the charger, the battery just mildly warm. The next charge i just ran it dead it my truck until the motor would no longer turn. It went above 3500mah this time and again it was just mildly warm. Is there something wrong with the charger or is this common or is it possible that my battery can just hold higher than its rated capacity? This is my first time using a peak charger so I just want to make sure it is working properly.
  5. I am running a TA02 Truck with the stock spur and currently a 21t pinion. I am however getting the tamiya 16t-17t set tomorrow night as soon as it arrives at the local hobby shop.
  6. I have the 16-17t Tamiya set coming in tomorrow night and hopefully it helps with my battery and motor heat issues. Do larger pinions do better for wearing on the spur? Because I don't see any wear at all on the pinion or spur.
  7. I went to the hobby shop yesterday to get a smaller pinion and unfortunately they didn't have them in stock so they had to order them for me and they will be here tomorrow night! Since I had my car there I figured I would asked the shop owner if my motor was dying since I thought I saw some unusual dark spots on the armature and he said yeah it is on its way out. So I bought a new motor, a Team Orion Havok 19t. I know it isn't anything special and it isn't rebuildable even though the shop owner told me it was but at least it should last a while. I am still trying to find the specs for the motor, I can't seem to find them anywhere. I emailed Orion asking them about the specs, just waiting on a response now. So anyway after putting in my new motor I tested it out to see if everything still got hot and it did. I don't know if it got as hot as before but it was still pretty hot. So i tried something different just to see how long it actually takes for the motor and battery to heat up. I flipped the car over and ran it upside down for a good 15 minutes or so and nothing got hot. The battery stayed cool and the motor got a little warm but it was a big improvement over a normal run. I know having it run upside down didn't give the drivetrain any resistance but what could be causing that much resistance to make everything get that hot?
  8. How fast are we talkin here? Just a few runs, days, weeks, months? I currently have a 21t, I think it is a tamiya pinion it appears to be aluminum. And It meshes really well and there isn't any wear showing on it or the spur at this point. When I do run the truck I do tend to run it hard.
  9. Yeah it wasn't smooth at all! I went and saw it and it was definitely 48dp. He ordered the tamiya 16t and 17t set for me and it will be here Thursday night! I also had the guy look at my motor because I had a feeling it was dying and he confirmed it. The armature looked slightly burnt at the top of the windings and I bought a "Team Orion Havok 19T". I really didn't want to spend much and I wanted a modified motor. It was $22 is this a good motor?
  10. Is there a way to tell if a gear is 48 metric or dp? My local shop is telling me they have 48 and he isn't sure which it is.
  11. So is 42 standard, metric 48, and .6 pitch the same and interchangeable?
  12. Is the ".6" a European way of measuring the pitch? The reason I am asking is because it seems like all of the sites I am finding that sell .6 pinion gears are European all US sites seem to sell 48 pitch or some other number with out a decimal point. This whole pitch thing is making my head spin! I just want to make sure I get the proper gears for my car so I don't have to replace my pinion and my spur gear. ***EDIT*** I have found a site that sells them here in the US: http://www.carttonic.com/catalog/index.php...mp;pi_id=150452 Towerhobbies also sells a few but they aren't the size I'm looking for. Thanks for the help!
  13. Ooops sorry i didn't know about that rule I removed the link! Thanks for the heads up!
  14. I need to get a new pinion gear for my TA02 chassis truck. I have read that it needs to be a 48 pitch and between 16t-21t. However I have seen that there are different versions of 48 pitch, a metric and standard version. And I've also read that you can only run tamiya pinions in TA02 chassis. Here is a link to where I read some of the info: http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=17145 Can anyone confirm for me what will and won't work for my truck. The shop I have easy access to right now doesn't sell Tamiya parts so if something else will work that would be great if it won't I guess I will be waiting. Thanks, Dave
  15. Yeah I know moving the endbell -180 or +180 (which is the same thing) would give me a reverse polarity and make the motor spin in reverse. I am just trying to figure out if the person who owned the motor before me had the endbell on in the opposite direction (180 degrees out of sync). So what direction is the motor supposed to spin normally? If it is supposed to be clockwise, why would my car be running in reverse with this setup? I have also hooked up a stock tamiya motor (regular silver can) and it runs clockwise and makes my car run in reverse. Something is really confusing to me about this whole thing. Is there something wrong with my esc? It is a Tekin 410S, and from what I have seen in the online manual it is all set up correctly. Thanks, Dave
  16. Can anyone else confirm the direction the motor is supposed to spin? The motor spins counter clockwise but if I switch the endbell around 180 degress it runs clockwise. Moving the timing within the -6 to +6 degrees of timing doesn't effect the direction of rotation. The ESC I'm using is forward only and if the motor is spinning clockwise the car wants to run in reverse and will run forward only when spinning counter clockwise. I could switch the polarity of the wires on the endbell but I don't know if that would really be much different then having the endbell spun 180 degrees.
  17. So I have a new 3300mah NiMH battery from radioshack and the motor is one I got from a parts car, it is a DuraTrax Proline Wet Magnet Modified Motor 4WD/Off Road. These are being powered through a Tekin 410S ESC which barely gets warm but the battery and motor get so hot I can hardly touch either one after running them, I have only run the battery about 4 times and this last time was the best run I have had out of it yet and it smelled funny after the run and I noticed the sticker label on it was kind of distorted/bubbled up a bit. I know heat is bad for a NiMh battery during the charge but is it bad also during the discharge(it has only been slightly warm when charging 2.5a max)? I have taken the motor apart and the armature looks pretty much perfect, the can and end bell appears to have bearings instead of bushings what should I use to lubricate the bearings? I have also tried reducing the timing, the can has markings on it going from -6 degrees to +6 degrees. I have only tried to go with negative timing to reduce heat and I have only stayed within the markings on the can and -6 degrees seemed to make it run hotter than at 0. Is it possible to ruin a motor by adjusting the timing? Before I touched the timing I read quite a few articles about it and none of them mentioned anything about creating more heat by reducing timing so I was a little confused when this happened. Is there any way to test the armature to see if there is any damage to it? Please let me know what you think. Thanks, Dave
  18. Hi, This is my first post here and I hope someone here can help me out. I originally got my TA02 S-10 back in the mid 90's and just recently decided to restore it just to have something to have fun with. So far I have purchased a TA01 from ebay for $46 that had all of the parts I needed replaced and an ESC (still had the manual speed control) and a better remote than I had originally and I am waiting on a Peak charger to replace my timed chargers i have from the 90's and I also had to replace the 10 year old battery 1700mah NiCd battery with a 3300mah NiMh that I'm currently waiting to finish its 46 hour break in charge. That's what I have done so far now onto the questions: The body will need to be replaced eventually it is pretty beat up, cracked in numerous places and paint is peeling pretty bad. What size body will I need to look at? I know I can change the length of the wheelbase a bit by changing around some of the suspension parts/control arms. I have also noticed people listing front and rear sway bars or control bars for their TA02 but I can't find them any where, where can I find them? As far as the differentials go I have read that the front gear differential and rear bearing differential are interchangeable. Is that true? If so is it better to have two gear differentials or two bearing differentials or just leave it stock? I have also seen people list locking differentials for the TA02 what is the advantage of that upgrade and where would it be found? Also with the differentials which one should feel smoother when spinning the wheels freely, the front or back? Right now for me the rear bearing differential feels kind of rough and if i try to just spin the wheels they just stop if i give them a quick spin but the front gear differential feels very smooth and will continue to spin if i give them a quick spin. And every once in a while i will pick up the truck and notice one of the back wheels isn't spinning when i hit the accelerator if i spin the wheel with my hand and try again it work just fine but every now and then it just stops working. I know that bearings are a big upgrade to get and I plan on doing them next before anything else, I have seen bearing kits on e-bay for less than $20 for 22 bearings which i believe should cover all bearings in the car. Are the cheaper e-bay kits ok or will I have problems with them? I also want to get the reinforced driveshaft but I have only seen them on e-bay for the TA01 and that chassis is longer where can I get the reinforced driveshaft for the TA02? I would also like to get the FRP carbon chassis at some point but i will probably wait to get a used one from e-bay. What motor do most people run in a TA02?I have seen alot of people mention the trinity P2K2 motors, are these good? And would buying a p2k2 armature and just throwing it in my current motors can work? Do all RC armatures have the same diameter and length of shaft and placement of the commutator? I don't plan on going brushless. Thanks for any advice. If more info is needed please feel free to ask. Thanks again, Dave
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