Psylence
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Posts posted by Psylence
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Just finished putting together the re-re Bruiser's transmission. Installed the hop-up slipper clutch while I was in there because why cheap out now, right? With that in mind, is it considered a bad idea to use something like this instead of the crusty old silvercan?
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Am I the only one who has wondered what exactly the POINT of that Traxxas vehicle is? Most people are utterly incapable of operating a real 1:1 vehicle safely at the speeds this thing blows right past. I don't get it. I'd say it looks like a smoking crater waiting to happen, in pavement and wallet! And the vids seem to back me up there
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Shoe-goo and some hose clamps?
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those the pneumatic tube thingies i drive over all the time?
is that for rating billboards? like ratings on tv?
Tubes, radar, loops, cameras, bluetooth... Good chance those black tubes are connected to something I've had my hands in/on haha
It's for DOT information purposes. Volumes, classes, speeds, all that fun stuff... and yes police also use them so they know *when* to set up a speed trap. Don't hate me!
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what kind of electronics do you work on?
Traffic counting and monitoring equipment.. *very* exciting
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It only spins as hard as you push the trigger. I go slow in for that very reason.
I used to get crap at work from the older guys as I would use a Makita impact driver to put together our electronics. Always saying I was gonna break something, strip something... never happened. It's all about the control
I've also ended up with claw-hand from trying to work with too tiny screws for too long of a period. Ugh!
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How reinforced is the chassis area on the new Clod where the steering servo(s)? go? The original only had one servo iirc, and I want to say that we ended up using some aluminum to brace the area on ours back then..
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I must be the only person around who isn't a Clod Buster fan. I had one of the original ones back in the day and recall it being slow and ill handling. Needed an 8.4v to properly motivate it, but that didn't fit inside... seem to recall wedging it into the rollbar in the bed somehow. The 4ws was gimmicky and not terribly effective, and I recall spending more time driving it around on top of the water in my pool, since the giant tires kept it afloat easily.
And I might have talked myself into buying a new one just to see how good or bad my memory is... hmm..
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Use JAndersons trick of applying with a zip tie. I like it because I can get exactly the amount I want versus runny threadlock. Never noticed the smell, I'll have to take a whiff next time I use it. As for setting, it's my experience that it needs 24hrs to cure. You may be just using too much?
I use a toothpick to get it into holes or nuts. Occasionally, I'll just twirl the very last couple threads along the perimeter of the AG cup to get a tiny bit on. Definitely trying to follow the "less is more" principle with this stuff!
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The fact that I can't buy a big tub of Tamiya's anaerobic gel thread lock. I love that stuff.
Really? Good lord I depsise that stuff! It smells odd to me and no matter what, I seem to get it all over my hands no matter how careful I am! Seems like it never sets up, so god help you if you brush your hand across a screw head 2 weeks after application... RED STAIN!
Why, why WHY, TAMIYA?!
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I use a 9.6v hitachi impact driver. I also have a full complement of bits; philips, hex, torx, etc.
At least, I was using it until I discovered that Tamiya uses mostly JIS head screws which strip out pretty easily if you use a philips head in them. Still searching for JIS bits that fit into a standard 1/4 drive or whatever...
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Wow, very impressive! And sadly beyond my abilities... I'll just be installing the stock locked setup for now.
Since this is my first build/teardown of a Sand Scorcher, does anyone know the fastest/least hassle method of splitting the gearbox? I could just reverse the assembly directions of course, but there's almost always an easier way...
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There are so many variables that you will never get the same answer from everyone and we all have our own personal favourites mainly because of what we owned as youngsters. Out of all of the many choices I would actually say that their greatest release might just be the Hornet, down to the fact that it is great looking, reliable, near indestructable, easy to build and is probably their greatest ever seller. Not only was it a smash hit in the 1980s but the re-release has now been in production for over 8 years which is even longer than the original got. I would love to know how many Hornets have been churned out by the factory over the last 29 years.
Hornet was my first, way back when. And boy, they sure can take the abuse! I did manage to crack the gearbox on mine at one point however... I'm sure I was doing something youthful and foolish. And probably awesome.
I really should pick up a re-release, even though I've been trying to keep it to "things I couldn't get when I was a kid.."
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It's only $230 bucks on TamiyaUSA's scratch and dent section. For that price its kinda tempting me.
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The only plastic part in the assembly is the main diff gear itself. How well do printed parts withstand being used as gears? I'd think it would be better as a moulded or machined delrin (acetal) part. The rest of the diff assembly is metal from other Tamiya models with little bits ground off them.
Anyone who wants to copy what I did, or even produce them to sell is welcome to.
Oooh... Is there a thread with details?
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Sure seems that way.
Of course, now I'm having second thoughts about installing the slipper clutch hop-up that I have here for the Bruiser re-re. The last thing I want to do is rip that 3speed apart multiple times chasing down problems!
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Yes, checked those for tightness. It's definitely something inside the gearbox itself. So much for the "hop-up" eh?
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If you have never ran the car, you could not have torched the diff.. it takes a lot to ruin the rings..
I sure hope not. However, I've tried following all of the adjustment instructions that came with the diff to no avail. Guess I'm going to have to crack the gearbox open and rebuild.
Very disconcerting to hear gear noise, see things turning... but not have it translate into forward movement.
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Got the wheels mounted up, loaded up a battery... dropped her on the floor for a maiden run.
Gear noise, no forward movement. Pick her up and the axles and wheels turn just fine. Must be the ball diff... adjust both ways multiple times and no sucess. No amount of adjusting results in forward motion once placed on the ground... Must have torched the diff. Guess I have to reinstall the stock spooled setup. FML.
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Well, the peanut oil soak + mass amounts of profanity seems to have done the trick.
Mental note, no more 3piece wheels ever again!
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Anyone got any ideas on what to replace the pot-metal axle mounts with? Something more robust?
Someone who is obviously not me might have overtightened one side of the leaf spring u-bolts and heard a disconcerting "pop"
... and it wasn't the plastic helper bit. Although the fractured mount is held in place nicely by the plastic bit now. Most enjoyable kit I have built to date, regardless.
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Mine is arriving from Tower today, for the princely sum of $110.
I really hope all future re-releases stick around a wee bit longer, I don't like feeling pressured into impulse buys
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This will sound slightly crazy but it works well . Soak the tires in peanut oil for 24 hours . Wash and rinse . Then try to fit them . Nice soft restored rubber at virtually no cost
I'm down with crazy at this point. Sounds like the next thing to try!
... and it wasn't the plastic helper bit. Although the fractured mount is held in place nicely by the plastic bit now. 
Bruiser! Have I chosen.... poorly?
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
Had this one laying around but no CR tuned. Just this sports tuned and a Dynatech 01R
More concerned with mulching the gearbox at this point than having it be a bit too quick. I figured on mostly running it around in first anyway, 2wd doesn't work so well in the grass around here!