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OldSchoolRC1

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About OldSchoolRC1

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  • Birthday 12/26/1975

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    Oley, PA

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  1. I believe they offer a winch controller that has a sperate remote, and one that works with your radio for inputs. It's been a while since I bought one though. EDIT: they do indeed offer one that works with your rado: https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Wired-Winch-Control-Unit_p_3725.html
  2. Most winch controllers operate off the 6v from the receiver, or the more powerful ones tap into the battery leads. You can certainly run a separate battery, but there's no need to. My RC4WD and generic winch controllers run off the 6v from the receiver. They have their own controllers which is handy. My larger servo winches use old ESC's that I have laying around so they tie into the battery power leads. They operate off a channel on my radio though I turned down the endpoints a bit so they only get about 6v or so.
  3. The rings hold on the tire, they are beadlock rims. You want the beads on the tire tucked into that lip on the outer edge of the rim, then the rings hold it tight. Your pic shows the tire tucked onto the center of the rim.
  4. I always do that when I take out a servo or something, especially if I'm shipping it. Keeps the wheels from flopping around.
  5. That does look cool, those are fun little trucks to restomod.
  6. Ouch! Glad to hear your daughter is ok! Loss of TX is no joke. I was racing my old 1/8 Duratrax Axis nitro buggy many, many years ago at the track, and coming down the front stretch and full throttle I bumped my radio on the drivers stand and apparently my battery door wasn't latched properly. All the AA's fell out, and all of a sudden i have a 9lb 40+ mph missile at screaming at full RPM and running out of control. Jumped the track, sailed out of the parking lot, across the field, across a busy 4 lane highway and ended up in a pond on the other side of the road. Somehow it never hit anything (and made it across the highway in 1 piece, Frogger would be proud) but I was absolutely terrified of taking someone (or something) out. You can believe I made sure nothing like that ever happened again.
  7. This is such a cool little project. Mechanical issues aside, it certainly looks the part no matter what body is on it. Associated just released the Element Enduro 12 and it's apparently a newer version of the CR12. On the crawler forums, the CR12 is known for it's gearbox issues even with brushed crawler setups. Apparently, Associated was listening so they redesigned the gearbox and skid completely to a more conventional setup. Should just drop in since it's the same chassis, and looks to my eye like it uses the same gears so it looks like all you'd need is the plastic transmission parts for the upgrade (PN 41124). Might be helpful. New Transmission Parts
  8. Very nice! I had planned to swap over to the Kong body this year as well. My Dyna is due for a refresh. The stock wheels have a ton of offset, not surprised that they catch on the center tire. The portals push everything out and add a ton of scrub radius - combined with the offset on the wheels, they are going to touch. I run 1.9's just for that reason and they clear fine. I didn't like the rear steer at first, the steering bellcrank had some odd geometry compared to the front. The ball end with the servo drag link attached is way to close to the pivot point and the servo has very little leverage so I found my steering tended to flop a bit out back. plus I could only use about 25% of the servo's total throw - really not getting much torque that way. So in a big brain moment, I stretched out the bellcrank with a small piece of aluminum that moves the ball end for the servo link mount out away from that pivot point as much as possible. Ended up pretty easy to do. I lost a bit of steering throw, but it's much more solid at the wheels - the servo has better leverage and now can use almost full rotation. Made all the difference in the world. Maybe that might help? As far as the motor, I use a Holmes Crawlmaster 5 pole 20t 550 (on just 2S to save wear and tear.) Low speed resolution is fantastic, and it goes just above walking pace. Very happy with the combo.
  9. Yes, nothing official, but running on tarmac and loose gravel. I was indeed running with the low ride specs which is basically shorter springs and some spacers in the shocks. I don't remember exactly how the shocks are set up spacer-wise, but I set the ride height to about the same as my XV01. Definitely helped with stability. I never ran the hotter motor with the current suspension, it might be better now. I was initially running HPI WR8 rally tires which were super grippy. Switching over the much harder Tamiya tires helped the traction roll a lot. I'm sure the proper setup is there somewhere, I just stopped messing with it. You've got me inspired though, maybe I'll paint it up and get back to it. It was a fun drive. I'd say go for it, and be sure to post up a thread!
  10. I wish you luck! I tried to rally my CC01 years ago and it was a challenge - a fun challenge, but a challenge nonetheless. I ran a 3300kv motor in a low ride kit and with the stock out of the box settings it basically traction rolled at any speed above 1/2 throttle on any surface except loose gravel. The steering is very touchy at speed also, even with an HR steering kit. Some expo tuning on the radio helped a lot. That solid rear axle and front heavy nose makes for some .... interesting handling. I got it settled somewhat with stiff front springs, some thick silicone in the front diff and a very, very soft rear axle setup. I had the torque splitter in, but didn't like the rear braking only, so I took it back out. It hunkers down now in the back under acceleration and has more of a push at speed ilo digging in and rolling. It's a pretty cool setup once sorted out. Agree on the "diff spacer" - it you plan to put any power through that rear axle and the cast gears, it's cheap and easy insurance. I sadly wrecked the low ride body on the first battery pack (ouch) but the chassis lives on with a newer Toyota body and some touring car wheels. It now has a silver can with a 20t pinion and it's pretty zippy, but not nearly as fast. Handles pretty decent now for what it is. Forgive the dust, it's been a while since I touched it. I got the body mounted, but awaiting some paint.
  11. Sure, locked diffs in this case are for offroad performance, specifically trail and crawling. With the stock differential when the weight comes off a tire or it's up in the air it will just spin and "diff out" - basically stopping your momentum. When are locked, both tires spin all the time. This truck is somewhere inbetween - it has some diff action, but it is super stiff with the silicone crammed in there. Should do fine out on the trail, I don't really see it as a hardcore crawler. Grease is a personal preference... Some people feel better cramming it in there (not sure why), some prefer it light. Some of the crawler guys will fill their axles/transmissions completely with grease for protection when running in water. Personally, cramming a lot of grease in the gearbox adds weight and just makes a mess. That's just my opinion. Here's my general rule of thumb: -I brush on a light coat of lightweight grease on my buggies, bashers, and any plastic crawler gears. I usually use a tub of Penzoil lightweight I've had for decades. It's super slick, whatever it is. I think above on the Squash, I used the kit grease for some reason, it came with Tamiya's good grease, so I used it. I just put a light bead down the middle of the gears and let it run in. - A spray on teflon coating type lube for on road cars (too much grease adds drag, this is nice, light, and slick) - Red and Tacky for steel gears in my crawlers, nitros, and basically anywhere I have metal gears in a driveline. It adds some drag initially, but loosens up after a run - it resists "fling off" much better than lighter grease. Has served me well for 30+ years.
  12. Looking good! Always love a CC01 build. x2 on the HR setup for steering, far, far better than the GPM. I've tried everything I can think of to tighten up my GPM units, but they always round out - the HR unit is indexed far more deeply and so far the 2 I have are rock solid.
  13. Yessir! Looks right at home on the CR01, those big arches were made for monster tires after all. And thank you for the kind words on the TL01 - one of my favorite projects!
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