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OldSchoolRC1

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About OldSchoolRC1

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  • Birthday 12/26/1975

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    Oley, PA

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  1. I either used the D shaped outputs common now to many models, or I swapped the internals over to Stadium Blitzer gears and used the splines, I don't remember which but I run standard metal outputs and dogbones on mine. Can just barely see the shine behind the motor.
  2. I love the interchangeability between the MF01, TL01, and WR01 and GF01. Tons of options for suspension and wheelbases. Don't have much to add to the gearing question, OoALEJOoO covered all the bases. Even the LA kit swaps over with a little work: MF01 with TL01 LA arms, high speed gears, and 1.9's.
  3. Hobbywing 1080 and a $20 Holmes Crawlmaster motor in either 550 or 540 flavor is my go to setup for all of my crawlers. I think I've got most of them switched over now. For <$65, it's super smooth and plenty of power for getting down the trails. I have a Fusion Pro in my IFS Element and I find it to be a bit jerky. Had to try it to see what all the fuss was about and was less than impressed. Haven't really played with the settings (I'd like to turn off the FOC, I think that's what I didn't like) and only have about 2 hours of runtime on it, but I'm sure I'll eventually replace it with a 1080/crawlmaster. Stock pinion in the kit is fine to get started. Take a run or two before deciding on any changes. It's great to theorize, but things tend to change quickly when the rubber hits the dirt.
  4. The swaybar is not strong enough to move the suspension with the shocks attached. You can see the swaybar shifting in the chassis mount in the pic which for sure reduces it's effect. Looks to be plenty thick enough, I think if you tighten it up at the chassis mount it should do fine. I used a wrap of aluminum tape on the center of my TL01 bars it it seemed to work well enough. Very nice build BTW!
  5. Fascolor was my go to for years! Great news!
  6. I used to buy/sell/trade quite a bit, especially when I was buying up cheap rollers and fixing them up. But now with the US threatening to tax paypal/venmo transactions as well as the absurd 3x increase in shipping costs since 2020, all that has ground to a halt. I cannot sell a $100 rolling chassis when it cost an additional $75 to ship it. The last scale truck I sold went across the country and it was over $100 to ship, I almost had a heart attack. It used to be about $40 or so. Speaking of cheap used rollers, they've gone by the wayside as well as many have mentioned. Again, I think all the fees, charges, and shipping costs have killed that. If I'm not selling mine online anymore due to the costs, I would assume others have also stopped. I think the hobby as a whole is pretty strong. Lots of new offerings coming out, some are pricey some aren't too bad. Agree that the parts/paint and tools are getting a little ridiculous. $70+ for a plain lexan body? C'mon.
  7. I was eyeing up that RC10 as well, but the shop is already overloaded. The Hilift is a fantastic build, but the CC02 is a better offroader, hands down. There's some typical Tamiya quirks but it performs decently well.
  8. There's quite a few bodies that fit the CC02. Defender, FJ, Bronco, G500.... plus every CC01 Body that I can think of - both Pajeros, Jeep, etc. Bronco fits fine BTW! If you decide to go non Tamiya, any base crawler chassis would give a ton of options. Crawler bodies are everywhere, and loads to choose from.
  9. Yes, for 4WS on one channel you need a reversing cable so the servos turn in opposite directions. Can get an inline reverser, or a reversing Y cable. I have a 3 position switch on my go-to radio, I use it to control the rear steering separately. Works well, though sometimes I forget which way to go, switch to crab by accident and go careening off the side of a rock. The Flysky GT5 has crawl steering built in and I use that on a few rigs as well, it works great though it's a bit of a pain to switch it on the fly. Bottom line - if you can do it through your TX, that's for sure the way to go long term.
  10. Looking at the pics of the Hippo (cool truck!!) I think you're in Traxxas Hauler territory with the wheelbase. The TRX6 would be a decent option, though the overall length might be a bit off. I've been wheeling an TRX6 for a while, and it's a very fun trail vehicle. Locking/unlocking the diffs comes in handy and makes for a very realistic trail drive. Not to mention it's as tough as old boots. I've run next to Cross RC stuff quite a bit, and while it's very scale looking, there always seems to be an issue of some kind. My friends HC6 has chewed out the center axle gears several times. Some shimming helps apparently, but it has been downgraded to "light duty" trail runs. A Tamiya Semi kit would be a good start as well, though if you want to go 6 wheel drive it can get pricey pretty quick.
  11. I picked up a chassis years ago and assembled it with TXT axles and a Axial 3 gear transmission, then later a leftover Tamiya CR01 trans since it's basically bulletproof. Was pretty easy to do, plenty of room in the chassis to make it work. I think it's still here somewhere, been years since I messed with it.
  12. Looks great! Perfect fit on the CC01
  13. My daughter has a desk that switches between standing and sitting, and it's variable height. She moves it depending on what she is doing. It's pretty slick, thinking of one for myself, also for back issues. Might be a good option for you to look into so your not locked into a fixed, uncomfortable position.
  14. I built my Squash in about 2 hours. Very easy kit, it's pretty much all gears! Definitely buy bearings before the build, it's a lot of work to get back in there.
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