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OldSchoolRC1

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About OldSchoolRC1

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  • Birthday 12/26/1975

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    Oley, PA

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  1. First paragraph of first post. DE racing mini slicks out back. The fronts have Astrals in the pics just to get it on all fours, but my Proline slot wheels have since arrived and look the part! Pics to come.
  2. Now we're getting to the good stuff. Since the HHH is sitting low, the rear wheels being off center in the fenders really bothered me, as well as rubbed pretty bad on compression. So, after digging in my stash, I found a set of TL01 rear hubs. The lower part where the hinge pin goes through is much narrower than the DT02 part (DT02 on the left) and should allow me to shift the axle slightly forward... Well, that was easy. I used a CR01 "3 notch" spacer and a shim and it fits in there perfectly. It's as far forward as possible trimming the wheelbase a few mm. I relocated the upper links as well to a more parallel position....looked much cleaner to my eyes. Both sides swapped and the new layout out back. Better, but still a bit off just a bit.... After scratching my head a bit, I realized the front hole in the body is elongated and the mount is in back with plenty of room to slide around. If I could just figure out how to shift the body back slightly I should be good. Looking at the rear body mount, it attched to the shock tower at some molded in standoffs. Grinding off the standoffs should give me a few more mm... so out came the Dremel and off they came! Boom...wheel is now centered perfectly in the rear fender. Under full suspension compression it hits the fender right in the center. No more rubbing! Now that that is sorted, time for some power. Not wanting to shred the drivetrain....at least, not yet, I started with a 3000kv motor, mounted up with a steel 17t pinion. I've got 5400kv and 7000kv on standby, but I'd like to see how it handled this motor before going too crazy. My typical wiring mess...It's all in there and about as clean as it gets for me. I tend to move electronics around a lot, so I just usually zip tie everything out of the way and call it good. Time to get cracking on the body... I got as far as adding some light buckets front and rear for some 5mm LED's. I'm not sure if I want to do the lights on the roof yet or not.
  3. I put clod tires on mine, with 4WS. Looked the part, but the tires rubbed the links terribly. I'm sure there's a way around it, but I just moved on. Some Axial BKT's would be a great match.
  4. Got the shocks sorted last night. I was shooting for 70mm front and 90mm rear to get the chassis a bit lower than stock. Worked out pretty good! Out back, I stuffed in some Gmade XD's - maybe a bit overkill, but they were laying around and the right size. I had to put the reservoirs inboard as they interfered with the fenders. They look and feel great! In front, I used some integy 65mm shocks with some longer rod ends to get close to 70mm. They are pretty good shocks, I've used them on a few builds. The springs are Tamiya white touring springs, they feel a bit stiff but I won't know for sure until I get it larded up with battery and electronics. View from the back... definitely sitting nice and low and a few poser shots with the body. Pretty much the exact stance I was looking for! Front Astrals are just there for mockup, I'm waiting for 12mm to bearing adapters which are en-route. Only thing that bothers me is the rear wheels not being centered. Really limits uptravel. I have a plan in mind though to re-center them....hopefully.
  5. Me too! I'm hoping it lives up to what I'm imagining in my head. If not, it's an easy conversion back into a buggy. Moving right along... Front suspension is sorted out and installed on the chassis pan. I replaced the upper arms with some old Traxxas turnbuckles and some random Tamiya ball ends. Maybe not very elegant, but gives me the ability to adjust camber which is all I wanted. Servo JUST fits, it's much taller than suggested by the manual, but the steering rods just clear everything, so it's good to go! Mounted up the rear and inching closer to a roller! I added the body mounts to get an idea of where the body sits so I can set the suspension appropriately. Such a cool body, it's a shame it can't be painted.
  6. Since I've dabbled in no prep drag racing a bit this winter, I've rediscovered the joys of running fast! I've been crawling and on the trail so long, I forgot how fun speed could be. During my frenzy of ordering parts, I ordered some DE racing "mini" drag slicks... They ended up being far too small for my DR10, and have been sitting in my parts pile waiting for a home. So like any RC addict, I was wondering what to do with them. Basically, I'm building a car around a set of tires. They are on staggered rims - 1.7/1.9, so they are perfect for a 1/10 build. I was looking at Associated buggies thinking an old B4 or B5 would be a good match - kind of a smaller DR10 so to speak... then a Holiday Buggy kit popped up for $109. Perfect!! Absolutely love the body and a 2WD platform was what I was looking for - and it was 1/3 the price of the Associated buggies. So a few clicks later, it arrived. Can a DT02 chassis handle more power and grip? Much more? I'm betting it can, but it should be fun to find out! Ordered a DT03 swaybar set(!) and dug around for some other goodies. Once everything arrived, it was time to get to work. Always a good day opening up a new Tamiya box... A slipper would be nice, but not in the cards with this chassis. Gears are nice and beefy though. Stuffed them with bearings and built the diff with a tub of AW grease inside. At the rear, I added some modified TRX turnbuckles since the DT02/3 kits are in short supply here in the states. Also added the rear swaybar (hard) and metal diff outputs and some steel CVD's left over from my TL01B. DT03 swaybar set? Well, since I couldn't find an '02 set, I had to improvise a bit. Figured that they were pretty similar for the most part. Our back was fine, but up front the '02 kit comes with a metal retainer for the front swaybar and the '03 kit does not. I sandwiched some black styrene together and made a holder... decal and all! I was so proud....However, I had to clearance the center a bit for the locking collar and lost the "M" in Tamiya which brought me back down to earth. But it works, and that's all that matters. I will say the swaybar in front is very sloppy... not sure if it's the same from '03 to '02 or not, but it'll need some tweaking. I'm using an old JR servo for steering - should have plenty of power for this buggy, but fitment might be an issue. It's way taller than recommended. Not sure how this is going to work out, I had to stop for the night but I guess I'll find out soon enough.
  7. OldSchoolRC1

    Dynahead

    IIRC, there are 37 gear mating surfaces in this truck, 24 in the portals alone. My old SCX10 has 5. Certainly makes for a fun build!
  8. The Super Nitro Rally E-conversion is also coming along well. Using a few old HPI chassis as templates, I made a new chassis to get started. Added the bumper mount from the 1/10 chassis and cut a bit longer to accodate something other than very rare and expensive Super size bodies. I goofed a little on the longer wheelbase holes, my template shifted slightly I guess and they are off to the side by about a mm. Got too much time invested in the chassis, so I'll live with it for now. I don't mind rough edges so much, but I can't stand things being out of square. Thankfully the 280/300mm WB holes are perfect so it's not a total loss. It's a large plate for now, but once I figure out where everything goes I'll trim it down a bit and lighten it up. For the center trans I found a complete replacement Axial Exo bulkhead and motor mount. Works out great, I already had a few spare spurs, and it uses standard AX10 stuff of which I have a ton laying around, so it gives me the option of 3 center gear sizes, and a center diff or locked with a diff locker. Works so well, I ordered the only other one I could find on Ebay in the US. Genius, wish I had thought of this earlier. The green color....hmmmm.... Mounted up the bulkheads and the center trans. Took a bit of fiddling, I wanted to make sure I had the right length dogbones for all the different wheelbase options. Which I do! Narrowed and milled out the chassis...milled, drilled, and countersunk. Maybe not my finest work, but not terrible. Tried to do something different with the battery tray this time. Instead of bolting a huge, heavy tray to the chassis, I bent up some aluminum and made some brackets to hold the battery pack. Works like a charm and seems solid enough, I drilled out a few sets of holes so I can run my 90C packs on drag day, and larger, full size packs on parking lot days. Whoa...pulled apart the diff assemblies to check and re-grease and found a 1-way in the front! Nice! Won't need it for drag racing though, I just put in an open diff for now front and rear. Tempted to lock them up, but with drag season winding down, decided to build it for parking lot fun (Though it'll get a few passes I'm sure) Assembling the chassis ... shocks have arrived (50mm) and decided to embrace the green and purple... it kinda grew on me. Dropped in a Castle 3800 because A) it matched the color and it's all I have. Need to finish up the chassis details and figure out an upper brace. Bumper mount is en-route as well.
  9. Well, drag racing season has come to a close. They are still racing on weekends, but with temps warming up, it's trail time for me. I did get my HPI RS4MT2 conversion completed, and got a shakedown run in on the last day of drag racing... On 3S, this thing is a wicked! It even sounds mean with all the metal gears. I never checked the center diff though, and turns out all my fluid had leaked out over the years...On launch, I was diffing out the entire way down the drag strip - all the power was going to the front. Front tires ballooned so hard, they took off some paint from the inner fenders. A quick trip to the local dollar store and I had a huge tub of putty for $2. Packed the center diff and now it's solid as a rock. Car is set up with some old Proline 2.2's and a DeltaPlastiks body. With the diff closed, I suspect this car is going to be quite fast! Won't know until next season though.
  10. OldSchoolRC1

    Dynahead

    I locked all three of my diffs as well, though it makes 4WS a must. The rear tires really push the front and make the steering more of a suggestion than a reality. Love the look of that chassis and all of the gears! It's a sight to behold, and a testament to Tamiya that they all run smoothly and silently. Mine is surprisingly quiet going down the trail.
  11. Love it! Everything looks well fabricated. Can't wait to see it completed!
  12. And now for the gut punch... all that work, and after tearing my basement apart looking for it, I realized I tossed my programming card in with a sale last fall being a nice guy....and now have no way to program this ESC (or 3 others in my touring cars) - whoops!!! And they are out of stock everywhere. I need to reverse the motor rotation and have no way to do it! So it flies... in reverse. Making a long story short, I tracked down a programming card, only to find the ESC doesn't support reverse rotation anyway! Geez! So an old Castle Sidewinder and 3800kv SC motor got installed, and off we go! Anyway, off to the track. I didn't get any pics per se, so here's a gratuitous shot of my pit area. The blue Mustang in the pic is my DR10 drag car....another story for another thread. Drag racing an AWD touring car on a polished wood floor is a challenge to say the least. I ended up setting the punch to level 2 so it would get off the line clean, and then pour on the power as it headed down the track. Our track is only 66ft long since it is indoors, and my best pass to date is 1.79 seconds. I experimented quite a bit with motors, tires, tire additives, and diffs during the season. I can say for certain, locking the front diff and leaving the rear open is much easier to drive. I tried with both the front and rear locked and it was absolutely uncontrollable. I'm not sure why that made such a difference, but it sure did. Also, 2 pole motors worked far better for me than 4 pole - too much torque just instantly overwhelms the traction. After experimenting with the locked rear, I've now gone back and re-built the rear diff and re-installed, it, and locked the center diff with some putty. The overdrive effect never really came into play with the center diff, so now we'll see if front OD really makes a difference or not. That's where it stands today! Sadly, drag racing season is coming to a close. I'm a scale/trail runner for the most part, and with the temperatures warming up finally, I'm itching to get out and explore again. This has been a fun project for sure, and a VERY fun car to drive. The metal gears make a nice "Zing" sound as it whips down the track - doesn't sound like any of my other touring cars. In fact, I like it so much, I've decided to expand the family! In future installments, how about a Super Nitro Rally? I tried a poorly conceived electric conversion years ago. Based on what I've learned with this project, I can do much better. AND, to round out the family, how about a Nitro MT2? I converted this over years ago....it's good enough overall as is, but was set up for offroading. Needs a few tweaks for go fast duty. I've already started playing with the shocks and tires to get a feel for if it's a worth conversion.... oh, it is!! So now I've got a 1/10 (done), 1/9 and 1/8 (in progress) family of electrics, all sharing pretty much the same driveline parts so I can mix and match as I go. Good stuff!! I've got all summer to finish them up for next season.
  13. Chassis is complete! Took a bit more fabrication to get it where I wanted it, but it's all ready to go. Had to make a brace for the steering, not sure why the stock piece didn't fit... didn't fit on the stock chassis either. I started with measurements from the HPI "drift" chassis, maybe it's different from the standard RS43 slightly, IDK but nothing a bit of fabwork can't fix. Since I'll be swapping electronics around, I just zip tied everything to the upper braces for now. I made standoffs for the front and rear diffs and the transmission and used 2 turnbuckle links to brace the top of the chassis. It was pretty stiff with the 3mm lower plate, but now it's solid as a rock. Battery tray tucks in out back - it just squeezes in there. As close to the centerline as I could get it... sliced some openings in the sides so I could use Velcro straps to hold in the battery. Electronics mount on the opposite side of the battery. I've had this ESC in a box for a long time...finally had a chance to use it. 120a sensored, should do the trick.. (or will it??) View from underneath. I'd like to mill out a bit more, it's a bit of a porker! Wheels and tires...stickiest 1.9's I had laying around mounted on old, old, old 0mm offset HPI wheels. Keeping it all in the family I guess! Slicks would be better, but I don't have any handy. Body painted up and dropped on... I've had this 200mm Skyline NIB for almost 20 years! Can't believe it's been that long. Bought it for my old belt drive HPI Nitro RS4 car back in the day, but wrecked the car on a bad crash and never used it. Simple paint, I love the lines on these bodies, they do all the talking. No need to gum it up with flashy paint. I lost the wing somehow, so found another one in my stash and honestly, I think it looks better than stock! All sitting low and lean...
  14. First thing to do was strip, clean and assemble the diffs. No idea on the best drag setup for an AWD car, so I took a stab at it. Front diff is locked with an Axial locker, rear is limited slip for now. Front has the HD gearset and the rear has an Axial HD underdrive set. I'm thinking a bit of front OD will help keep the car in a straight line. Hopefully. Maybe... Found some universals too - bonus! Drilled some holes in the nitro chassis and got the Associated trans mounted... it does have a center diff which is not ideal. I put the thickest oil in I have, but a locked setup would be nice. I think Associated makes a slipper set-up for this transmission, if so I'll be looking into it. Found some random dogbones in my stash, a full set of turnbuckles, and an aluminum steering set and it's coming together nicely! (upside-down! Sorry!) I cut up and re-glued a TRX4 battery tray for my super shorty Capra pack...it's a 90C pack so it should do OK with instant throttle (I hope so anyway....) and it's nice and compact... I knew the chassis was a bit tweaked, and I tried to bend it back straight and thought it was ok...while building it up, I noticed it rocked all over my workbench. I was tweaked diagonally too, not to mention swiss cheesed from all the extra holes. I like swiss cheese, but not on my cars. So I broke out some 3MM aluminum, clamped them together and started making a new chassis... Couple of hours later, and I have this along with aluminum shavings in my hair. Much better! Not only looks better, but straight as an arrow and much stronger. It's a bit on the heavy side, I may shave it down here and there where I can. Designed it so I can flip the trans so the motor can sit front or rear., and nice and narrow since it's going 30 feet in a straight line and anything hanging off won't matter so much. Going to start with the motor up front for now...Hoping for a 50/50 balance front to rear.
  15. It came to my attention that a former roller skating rink in the area has abandoned skating and the owner is planning an RC megaplex... the inside of the rink will be a mudboss oval and they started doing drag racing on the weekends. Hmmm... interesting. Indoors, warm, 10 minutes away, and cheap no prep racing. And a nice concession stand with cheese fries. Not having a drag car (at the time, I've since bought one) and having since sold my Slash and all the parts I would have needed, I decided to build a touring car. My buddy runs a Traxxas 4Tec and it's pretty fast - maybe not as quick as the drag cars, but it's quick. I've got plenty of touring cars laying around, so I decide to convert one over on the cheap and give him a run for the money. I flailed around a but trying to decide what to run. At first, I thought a mini would be cool...tiny, big motor, and some larger 1.9 wheels...should haul the mail. So I dug out my MF01 bug and did some mods... But I thought a 4600kv motor would be a handful in such a tiny car, so I abandoned that one. Next was a TL01... I had some huge F1 slicks here, and again - AWD, lots of tire, and lots of power should be a winning ticket. I had to adapt an M05 suspension to the car to get the tires somewhat tucked... all was going well... Until I got to the front and the upper control arms would have to be so short, I couldn't squeeze anything on there. Plus, both cars were kind of iffy...they were never meant for tons of power and I had some serious concerns about the drivetrain holding up. Back to the drawing board. I had most of an old HPI Nitro3 laying around I bought years ago for SCX10 IFS conversion parts... after scrounging around, I managed to dig out most of the parts. Found an Associated buggy trans in my stash and did some mockup... this could work! Steel gears, all metal driveline... should handle the power much better than a 20 year old Tamiya. and heaven knows I've got a ton of spares and assorted HPI junk.... Smells like a plan! Found all kinds of stuff in my stash... HD outdrives, HD gears, and limited slip diffs... interesting. Plus I can always rob some stuff off my Super RS4's should I ever be so inclined.
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