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About OldSchoolRC1

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  • Birthday 12/26/1975

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    Oley, PA

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  1. Congrats on the purchase, can't really go wrong with an Element! Kudos for buying a kit as well, I'm glad Element still offers them as for me the build is 1/2 the fun. It's becoming a lost art!
  2. One of my favorite models from Tamiya, wish I had grabbed another before they disappeared. (I highly doubt it's coming back, it's such an odd duck) The portals bring to gearing down into crawler range, something I couldn't do with the Konghead. I like the Dynahead body personally. Looks good depending on how you paint it. I ran 4 packs through mine at last years G6, and it went everywhere and held up great .... surprised a lot of people. Wearing 4.19 Hyrax in the pic below.
  3. Every time I run my SMT, it seems like something falls off. I feel your pain! My daughter loves the colors and the skeleton unicorn btw.
  4. 5 poles have generally smoother start up and a bit less RPM than a 3 pole. The trade off is less torque and brake force. I've never really noticed a difference in run time. I've since switched almost all of my crawlers and trail trucks to a Holmes Crawlmaster sport motor in the 10 or 12t variety and WP1080 ESC. Cost about $60 all in and plenty of smooth power - those motors are a steal at $20 imo. The low end control of a 5 pole is fantastic, I like to drive slow and scale for the most part and the Crawlmasters are perfect (I just ordered one for an E-maxx crawler..if it can push that beast, it can handle a 1/10 truck!) I've tried the more expensive brushless systems and they are certainly nice, but I've found I really don't need it to go 9mph. IMHO of course.
  5. It's quite a satisfying build - especially with a nice pile of parts to sort through. Enjoy the low stress time!
  6. Make it three... I had the nitro truck back in the day and used to buy spur gears in pairs just to get through the day.... motor was ok, but the chassis flexed so much it just ate the gears. Love restoration threads, good luck with the rebuild!
  7. Yes indeed. 41077 in particular. Tiny 1.5mm heads and thick nylon makes for a headache. I coated the screws in grease, it helped a ton. A tap would have been fantastic, but I don't have one in that size. On a side note, There's a machined steel gear set for the transmission from Element (ASC42032.) Completely eliminates the issue as the holes are already drilled and tapped in the gears. Just need a dab of threadlock and they are good to go. I don't use them per-se as they are quite heavy, but they absolutely bulletproof an already tough transmission.
  8. Welcome to the rabbit hole! I caution you, scale trucks can suck you in and drain your wallet! I had no idea what I was unleashing back in '08 or so when I converted over my TLT into a trail truck. I've been out on the trails ever since. You're getting great advice, there's a ton of options out there nowadays, and it can get hairy when you are just jumping in. A few thoughts: I agree the CR01 is out of the mainstream compared to most 1.9 crawlers. However, it is a fantastic build and can be quite capable with a little work. Typical Tamiya overengineering with the suspension, but a more standard shock setup is easily adapted. Personally, I like to keep the spring and add a stand up shock next to it - just looks awesome working it's way along the trail. However, it's biggest drawback is steering...there just isn't much, and I've never seen CVD's for the front axle. I use 4WS on 2 of mine and it makes a huge difference, but it's not very scale. For the Tamiya guy who wants to get out on trail runs, but isn't really into competing now or ever, it's a fun truck. The Element trucks are excellent. Really, no matter which one you get, they are great starting points. Very smooth and quiet, and decent performers right out of the box. As Mad Ax said the only really hairy part is the little 2mm screws in the transmission can be a bear, but take your time, install them once and you'll never have to worry about them again. The fact that they even offer kits is outstanding in this age of RTR. I've got three, all built from kits, and all quite different. It is a very versatile platform. Axial used to be the 300lb gorilla so to speak, and maybe it still is. But others have caught up. Some if the V2 kits were pretty good, the V3 though, I'm not overly impressed. Seems like they were trying to be Traxxas but didn't quite make it. They do have quite a few offerings that are good though, it's not on your list but worth a look. I held out when the TRX4 came out, and I have no idea why. It's a seriously good trail truck. I've got 4 now, plus an X6 - all built different, and could build another 4. There's just so much aftermarket for them, you could easily build a TRX4 based truck without a single Traxxas part. Working your way down the trail in high gear and open diffs, then downshifting, locking up an axle (or two) and working your way through the rough stuff is trail magic. They even have cruise control, which sounds gimmicky but I found it surprisingly useful. They can be built for the long trail runs or built to perform, 4x4 or 6x6, portals or no portals, etc.... Personally I think it's the benchmark as far as trail trucks go. MST offerings are all very good, there's some very scale offerings from Boom and RC4WD (Reminds me of Tamiya, but much lower quality), plus the dozens of other companies out there - FMS, Vanquish, Gmade, Redcat, etc. Be aware of the "you need" syndrome, it pops up with trail trucks all the time. You need a 500oz servo, you need brushless, you need 3, 4S, brass, aluminum, and on and on. Hogwash. A simple brushed motor and $40 ESC on 2S will do just fine to get going. I've gotten a lot of former bashers into the crawling world and my advice to them is get a running truck, whether RTR or build your own, and get out and run a few times. You'll find out what you need pretty quickly, and then upgrade accordingly.
  9. I've been running crawlers and trail trucks pretty much exclusively for the past decade. I restored and built a few Tamiya's in the meantime to scarcth the "go fast" itch,, but my focus has been on trail trucks. I think I've finally burned out though, and am now working on some bashers (I'm on a T/E Maxx kick right now having picked up 2 rollers in the past 3 weeks) I even fired up a nitro for the first time in what, 12 years? Switching up every now and again keeps the hobby fresh for me (and my bank account drained!) Going back and working on a nitro was like a trip down nostalgia lane, and re-sparked my interest. Thankfully, I've amassed quite a collection over the past 30+ years so I can switch things around pretty easily. I will say as I get older, I find building, fabricating, and wrenching to be the most interesting part of the hobby. I don't spend much time behind the wheel anymore. I'd say about 1/3 of my collection has never even seen action.
  10. Nice find on that axle, I tend to buy 2 SCX V1 axles and mod them for pass through - I had no idea you could buy one!
  11. Converting a T-maxx to electric is .... well, like buying an E-maxx. I'm doing a bit of nitro renaissance myself, I just fired up my first one in 10 years. I stretched a rustler out to a Slash years ago and never even fired it up. That old Pro .15 fired in 4 pulls. Amazing. Running very well, I think the only thing that's rusty is my nitro tuning skills. Been a long time since I heard that sound and smell. Good stuff! I have a Nitro Stampede on my shelf as well, I plan a winter resurrection on that as well. Hasn't run in 15 years. We'll see..
  12. Very common, Not sure if there are any upgrades floating around anymore, but there are a couple of solutions. I found the easily solution was to use some CA to bond up the crack, and then (carefully) drill it out with a 3mm bit and use a long 3mm machine screw and nut ilo the threaded screw. I do that with almost all of my newer Tamiya kits when I build them to prevent stress cracks wherever I can. On a long post like that, I'll actually trim off the cracked portion and use a spacer behind the shock to take further stress off the plastic. Alternately, you can find some tube material that just fits over the plastic and trim and glue it on to reinforce the area. Either/or will solve it, the stock part is not dead - just needs a little love.
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