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OldSchoolRC1

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Everything posted by OldSchoolRC1

  1. They bolt right up to a TL01, imagine they could work fine on a TA chassis with a bit of fiddling. I picked mine up on TamiyUSA, they were blowing out Tamiya Trail Beetles on the cheap....robbed the portals from the kit, built the beetle with the left over parts, and plan to sell it eventually to make some $ back.
  2. I have the correction, thank you! It was in my kit. I tweaked the steering a bit to accommodate my radio.
  3. Moving on, I fell behind on the pics and updates over the holidays, but managed to finish up the VQS inbetween baking, wrapping, and all the Xmas madness... Got the steering installed, love the carbon plate, though I wish the steering was ballraced. Definitely going to lead to some slop over time. I put a beveled edge on the chassis just under the steering bellcrank. The ball stud hangs down just enough that it can snag here... I don't recall it doing so on my previous Vanquish, but why take a chance? A quick trim with the Xacto and it should never be an issue. Found an old HPI servo in my stash, it's a bit higher torque then standard so should do the job nicely on a 4WD buggy. Fit perfectly and a 25t spline worked out perfect. What's this? Tire foams? In a Tamiya Buggy? Not sure the tire need it per-se as they are pretty stiff, but I installed them anyway. Interesting that even though the wheels and tires are staggered, the foams are the same size. Speaking of, these are still a mother to install. My hands were definitely feeling it when done...they are quite stiff and spiky! Absolutely love the wheel and tire combo, one of my favorite things about the buggy. I looked up a spare set on Ebay and was stunned at the prices. Clearly, I'll be taking care of these - in fact, they'll most likely never see the outdoors. Electronics sorted out...stuck with the included ESC and motor - plenty of power for a few easy runs in the driveway which is about all the action this one will see. I tucked in the wiring mostly under the chassis - I do move electronics around from time to time and hate to cut the wires to fit a specific build. Body was already painted of course... I'd rather it had been clear as I would have preferred to spray on the stripes, but it is what it is. Went easy on the decals for a cleaner look and held off on installing the driver for now. LOVE how this came out, it's such a cool buggy!! I put it on display for now. Once the post office catches up a bit, I'll order another set of wheels for running and take it for a spin.
  4. Trail report! The Prime Dynahead did very well on the trail. Surprisingly well, it's far more stable than I expected it to be (It looks tall, but most of the weight is down low) and pretty darn capable. The tires kind of let it down a bit, it was cold, wet and slick and they really struggled for grip on the rocks - even with 6 of them. But they did fine everywhere else..I'll give it a run in the dry before considering any changes. The gearing is spot on with the 18t pinion and Holmes Crawlmaster, I had excellent low speed control and plenty of wheelspeed if needed. 4WS was for sure the way to go, I have it set for 0, 50, and 100% so I could lock it out if needed...which wasn't often. It got quite a bit of attention out on the trail too, kids seemed to gravitate toward it. I must have answered 100 questions... Can really see the wet conditions in this pic - made for some challenges, but a good time in any case! Much more at home going down the trail, it was a blast watching the IFS work and the 4WS snaking around obstacles. Made it! Too bad the shot came out blurry. No real changes are needed imo, though might look into a tire change depending on how it does in drier conditions, and eventually I'll tear down the portals and add the tiny bearings. Very happy overall with the build and result!
  5. Great build as always! Sharon came out great!
  6. Huh... fiber reinforced parts.. interesting. I figured there was a reason. Should handle the stock motor just fine then I reckon! Appreciate the feedback fellas!
  7. Love workshop threads! Fantastic to see amazing rooms that are dedicated to RC! We hope to move within the next 5 years, and a dedicated RC area is going to be a must have. But for now, we have a small house, and I don't have a room to work in, so I get the nasty basement. I'm very thankful for it though, blessed to have a supportive spouse who doesn't mind my madness. In any case, here's my main workbench after a fair cleaning: Secondary bench and "photobooth" - usually it's covered in projects, as it is now. Drafting table for ...well, drafting. Currently covered in a few vehicles awaiting paint. Parts storage V1. Various projects are tucked in wherever I have room... Parts storage V2.I keep bins and group parts together, sometimes by manufacturer, sometimes by kit - whatever makes sense and fits best. I have an enormous bin for Tamiya random parts for example, but have several bins dedicated to a single chassis if I have enough specific parts for it. - CC01, CR01, etc. Sometimes I group them by fitment - I keep all my Wild willy, TL01, Konghead etc. parts in a single bin since many of the parts are interchangeable. Fabrication bench. No 3D printers for me, saws, files, sanders, occasional cuts and abrasions. Vehicle storage... it's a mess. Touring on top, crawlers/scalers in the middle, projects towards the back. Pretty much put stuff wherever I can find room. I'm very due for a cleaning/reorganization.... I forget what's even back there. I know there's a few falcons, a Bearhawk, King Cab and a few old nitros back there somewhere. I have several cars in random locations around the house on display also, and the gas cars stay out in the garage. More storage...mostly buggies and offroad. I'm hoping this Spring for a rebuild of the benches and some painting of the walls and floors. Something I should have done long ago before the mess took over.
  8. I'd wager the Avante diff is the stronger of the two. I've melted 2 KC ball diffs in the past. I don't forsee any issues with this one -not that it will see a lot of running of course.
  9. Moving to the front... the front gearbox has the same odd texture finish that the rear does. Certainly doesn't affect anything, just an oddity for a Tamiya kit. Knuckles and CVD's... I'm not into gold at all, but the machining and finish of the parts is absolutely flawless. Typical Tamiya Front shocks....seem like an odd combo of mini CVA's and the old yellow CVA's. The tapered springs are cool as well, nothing something you see a lot anymore. Front gearbox and suspension bolted together and ready to go. Again the counter gear in the front rides on 2 2x6 plastic bushings. Very frustrating! Not even oiilite bushings... GRR! I definitely didn't have any of those laying around, I'll have to order some of those as well. It's almost made up for with the machined uprights and CVD's...Almost. Again, such a cool and unique design. Not a lot of travel, but certainly a lot of character. And the front gearbox mounted to the chassis tub. Really starting to look like something here! I thought this would take a lot longer to assemble, but it's going rather quickly.
  10. Sadly, no. He is of no threat, he's disarmed.
  11. If you don't want to be replacing axles, I'd avoid 4S. The internals are just not up to it unless you want to spend a fortune on hard gears, VP CVD's and axles, and aluminum axle housings. Their origins date back to HPI's nitro 1/10 days. Clod tires and locked diffs are especially hard on the axles. I run mine on a 3200kv 550 (Orion motor, HW ESC) and 2S. It's not super fast, though I'm sure it would be with more volts, but it's very torquey. Very monster truck-ish and so far I'm happy with it. I started with a Holmes Revolver which had gobs of torque, but not a lot of speed. Regardless of volts, a 550 can is the way to go imo, the truck is somewhat heavy. I also use open diffs front and rear and 2.2 Destroyers to minimize the breakage. So far, no issues! I have clod tires on standby, just haven't installed them yet.
  12. That's excellent! Just having some fun... Feel free to amend or expand on
  13. I think months of lockdown have driven me a bit batty... If this has been done before, please forgive me. Just having some fun with the holiday season. On the twelve days of Christmas, Mr. Tamiya gave to me Twelve Hornets buzzing, Eleven Falcons flying, Ten Blackfoots stomping, Nine Pumpkins bouncing, Eight Clods a-clodding, Seven Frogs a-hopping, Six Tanks a-tanking, FIVE DIFF GEARS! Four yellow shocks, Three piece wheels, Two Willy guys, And another box wrench for me!
  14. Had some blessed free time this weekend and made a lot of progress on the Vanquish..Sorry, VQS! The rear gearbox taking shape... The counter gear rides on 3x8 plastic bushings.. For the price of this kit, plastic bushings are an insult. I know it's a common theme with Tamiya kits, but if most of the driveline includes bearings, why skip these two? Ridiculous. I looked in my spares for a pair, and I actually had some though they were flanged. I placed an order for some replacements. I'll install these grudgingly until the replacements arrive. Completed rear gearbox. I always test out my drivelines with 3v to break them in a bit and make sure there are no issues before running...this gearbox is quite loud by Tamiya standards. I'm sure it'll settle down after a run or two. Usually ball diffs give me hives....these old eyes, fat fingers and tiny diff balls are not a good combo, but this one went together fairly easily. And mounted into the chassis. Starting to take shape! Bag B has a nice assortment of tools.. Always comes in handy! Huh... molded parts included to help snap the balls into the suspension arms. Very clever! And found the reason for the 2 box wrenches, though I only needed one for this step - the locknut gripped onto the aluminum pretty well and cinched right up. But good to know! Yellow CVA's! I haven't built a new set of these in ages. Still great shocks - easily assembled and decently smooth. These shocks seem to last forever, some of my vintage kits are still running the originals and though the yellow is quite stained after years of grass, mud, and other debris getting tossed onto them, they are still leak free and smooth as the day I built them. Suspension arms, bumper and shocks added. The suspension design is just so cool. I compressed the shocks a few times and giggled to myself.....
  15. Sadly, the Konghead/WW/Lunchbox tires do not work on the Dynahead if you want to use 4WS. The scrub radius of the portals and the wide offset of the rims push the tires into each other when turning. Works fine if you skip the rear steer however. Something to keep in mind. I'm sure that's why Tamiya includes the somewhat odd 2.2 wheels with the Dynahead kit. @Busdriver Your build looks great! I thought of an extended Tamiya Mog body as well for future builds. Looks fantastic with the portals.
  16. @JennyMo Thank you! I would say the same for your builds - always top notch! I have been playing Snowrunner quite a bit lately and it has warmed me up to experimenting with 6x6 builds. In addition to my TRX6 (which has absolutely stunned me with its capability) I have a rather "Bullish" project on deck as well. To answer your question, the rear axles are spaced 125mm apart. They will fit standard crawler 4.19's no problem, which is what is on currently and seemed to look the best to my eyes. I initially built with Proline Grunt tires (4.4") and while they clear ok, they looked cartoonishly big to my eyes and rubbed the body more than I was willing to trim. If you are not using 4WS, you could mount 4.75 crawler tires, but there is very little wiggle room...my 4.75 Hyrax's fit with a scant 2-3mm between tires. Since there's a lot of variation between tire manufacturers, I'd be very hesitant about pulling the trigger on 6 tires without testing first. With 4WS though, 4.4 is about as big as you can go - the scrub radius of the rear knuckles will push the tires into each other. I hope that helps! Would love to see you give a 6x6 a go! It's quite a treat watching all 6 tires undulating over the terrain.
  17. Mad Ax, I think you are onto something....with the locked diffs, it should go very well! Has to melt a little, I don't think it's going to churn through 10in...
  18. A while back, I tried to turn my Konghead into a trail runner/light crawler. It did ok, but the lack of ground clearance and tallish gearing, even with an outrunner motor, left me somewhat wanting. It looked fantastic, but just didn't perform the way I envisioned. So I tore it back down, put the stock wheels back on, opened up the diffs, dropped in a 3300kv brushless and ripped around the backyard a few times. Very fun chassis. I've had my eye on the Dynahead for a while - the portals would solve both of my problems...but it was quite expensive stateside. A recent significant drop in price overcame my hesitations and I decided to order one. To keep life simple, I used my existing built Kong chassis and just built the portals. Relocked the diffs and bolted them on. So many bearings bushings, and gears.... everything fits perfectly as expected with a Tamiya kit and they spin super smooth and quiet. I'm not sure how Tamiya manages that since this truck has by my count a stunning 54 gears/mating surfaces (!!) Eventually I'll build the Dyna chassis (with about a pound of bearings) and rebuild the Kong as it was such a fun and unique runner. But for now, it's trail time! View under the hood. I used dual servos for 4WS, rear channel is set to run independently on the ch3 switch of my GT3B radio so I can swing the rear tires as needed. I redid the rear linkage slightly as mine tended to bind up in one direction - the servo would easily overextend the bellcrank and it would lock up. I fashioned an 10mm extension for the bellcrank and a more direct link and now it swings perfectly. For electronics, I used a crawler grade WP1080 and a Holmes 5 slot Crawlmaster which with its lower RPM and super smooth control is perfect for this chassis. Decided to go with the Dynahead body, though I ditched the factory scheme and went with something a little more "Prime" inspired. I think it came out great! A bit plain I guess, thinking about something to break up the blue a bit. I used some 1.9 beadlocks and a few sets of Gmade Sawback tires which fit the body perfectly and are decently grippy. Front wheels have just a few grams of weight inside to balance out the chassis. And a few flex shots. Not a ton, but more than enough for this chassis. I'm using the Mini CVA's and a few sets of option CC01 barrel springs so I have a few springs rates to play with. It feels great on the bench - suspension is somewhat soft and supple, but not too much so. Of course, the week I finished this up, we received about 10 inches of snow. so a true trail test will have to wait a bit I'm afraid.
  19. Had to have one... I know it's pricey, but if I was worried about price, I'd for sure be in a different hobby. A bit of backstory... I have a thing for the Avante line. I remember staring at them in the catalog and in magazine ads (well thumbed paper catalogs and magazines, no digital back then) and just in awe of the design. There was nothing like it back then, and I'd argue there still isn't. I couldn't afford it - couldn't even afford to think about affording it - but I could look at it and dream... When it was re-released in 2011, I had to have one. Ordered and put it on the shelf, saving it for a special day when I could sit down, block out the world, and thoroughly enjoy the build. It's now been years, and I still haven't cracked it open. Not sure why honestly, I've had plenty of opportunities to build it up, but just haven't been able to bring myself to crack it open. Now it's been on the shelf for so long, it's kind of a fixture in the shop....the longer it goes, the more I hesitate the open it. Enter the Vanquish "VQS"... the Avante's lighter, simpler brother. Same driveline, same basic suspension design, and none of the nostalgic hang-ups preventing me from building it. I have zero qualms about building and tinkering this one. I had one in the past that I picked up in rough shape. I restored it as best as I could and ended up selling it w/o even running. This one will see some running, though probably very light driveway testing. The fraternal twins... And Cousin Eddie. I had the Aero Avante too at one point, but never really warmed to it and sold it off - didn't quite fit in the family with the basic chassis. The DF03 Avante is just cool enough to stay and has been a shelf queen since assembly. Eventually I'd like to display all three somewhere. Opening the box...no blister packs, but there's always that Tamiya new kit smell. Nothing like it! Two box wrenches! Not sure if that's a screw up or intentional, but now I'm up to at least 100 of these things floating around. I've got a box full here somewhere, plus they end up randomly scattered around the house. I find them in the oddest places. Digging right into the build. Interesting that the B parts tree has a unique textured finish to it. Very different from the usual ABS gloss of most kits, and the other parts. Hard to capture on camera, but it's noticeably different. Possibly the smallest 1/10 gear diff I've ever built. I thought the King Cab ball diff was tiny, I think this is even smaller. For a second, I debated tearing the diff out of the King Cab to compare, but only for a second. I get easily distracted. Slathered inside with Tamiya's AW grease as recommended. Tamiya sometimes does odd things. The bearings on the diff outputs are enormous compared to the usual 5x11's, but the counter gear rides on teeny 5x8 bushings... Weird. Granted it's quite an old design. Not interested in bushings, I replaced them with bearings of course. On a side note, when I was 15 and building my first kit, I asked Dad if I could use some of his grease I found in the garage. He recommended the Penzoil 705 tub, and I ran with it. I've been using this same tub now for nearly 30 years! I have no clue how old the grease is, but I know dad used it on his '65 Thunderbird so most likely it's older than I am. Works fantastic, my OG TA02T used this grease, and the gears still look great after years and years of running. I'll probably hand this stuff down to my kids. I brush a light coating on the gear surfaces and it runs super smooth. And that's as far as I got. Not as far as I would like, but dad bedtime duties called. Next up is the center ball diff... Between "home schooling" and the holidays, build time is super limited right now...not to mention I'm building this the old fashioned way - no power drivers, dremels, or anything. Just a set of hand tools, an X-acto and some sandpaper - the way any vintage kit should be built.
  20. I've been thinking about a 3rd MF01, another Porsche. This thread is not helping! Looks awesome!!
  21. I remember trimming the chassis slightly under the steering rack as it bound slightly when the suspension was fully extended. Disconnect the servo and move the steering around while the suspension is fully extended and you should be able to feel what/where is it locking. Alternate number 2 - electronics issue? Odd that it springs back when applying throttle.
  22. Looks fantastic as always. Love the theme, and the rear winch came out great!
  23. Love mine, it was a fun build and a great runner. It's like a Hornet on steroids. That color looks fantastic! FYI There's a issue with the kit spur gears. Mine was screechy loud no matter how I set the mesh and grenaded 30 seconds into the first run. Several others on another forum have commented on similar experiences, and Kyosho acknowledged "some issues" when I reached out to them. Highly recommend picking up an AE or Losi (or something similar) spur to have on hand. I replaced mine with an AE gear (86t, PN9653) and the truck is now utterly silent, and have had no gear issues since.
  24. Very cool! With just a few mods, my BOM was my best performing scale truck. It's a great chassis.
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