OldSchoolRC1

Yes, for 4WS on one channel you need a reversing cable so the servos turn in opposite directions. Can get an inline reverser, or a reversing Y cable. I have a 3 position switch on my go-to radio, I use it to control the rear steering separately. Works well, though sometimes I forget which way to go, switch to crab by accident and go careening off the side of a rock. The Flysky GT5 has crawl steering built in and I use that on a few rigs as well, it works great though it's a bit of a pain to switch it on the fly. Bottom line - if you can do it through your TX, that's for sure the way to go long term.

Glad it worked out!

Looking at the pics of the Hippo (cool truck!!) I think you're in Traxxas Hauler territory with the wheelbase. The TRX6 would be a decent option, though the overall length might be a bit off. I've been wheeling an TRX6 for a while, and it's a very fun trail vehicle. Locking/unlocking the diffs comes in handy and makes for a very realistic trail drive. Not to mention it's as tough as old boots. I've run next to Cross RC stuff quite a bit, and while it's very scale looking, there always seems to be an issue of some kind. My friends HC6 has chewed out the center axle gears several times. Some shimming helps apparently, but it has been downgraded to "light duty" trail runs. A Tamiya Semi kit would be a good start as well, though if you want to go 6 wheel drive it can get pricey pretty quick.

I picked up a chassis years ago and assembled it with TXT axles and a Axial 3 gear transmission, then later a leftover Tamiya CR01 trans since it's basically bulletproof. Was pretty easy to do, plenty of room in the chassis to make it work. I think it's still here somewhere, been years since I messed with it.

Looks great! Perfect fit on the CC01

My daughter has a desk that switches between standing and sitting, and it's variable height. She moves it depending on what she is doing. It's pretty slick, thinking of one for myself, also for back issues. Might be a good option for you to look into so your not locked into a fixed, uncomfortable position.

I built my Squash in about 2 hours. Very easy kit, it's pretty much all gears! Definitely buy bearings before the build, it's a lot of work to get back in there.

I believe they offer a winch controller that has a sperate remote, and one that works with your radio for inputs. It's been a while since I bought one though. EDIT: they do indeed offer one that works with your rado: https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Wired-Winch-Control-Unit_p_3725.html

Most winch controllers operate off the 6v from the receiver, or the more powerful ones tap into the battery leads. You can certainly run a separate battery, but there's no need to. My RC4WD and generic winch controllers run off the 6v from the receiver. They have their own controllers which is handy. My larger servo winches use old ESC's that I have laying around so they tie into the battery power leads. They operate off a channel on my radio though I turned down the endpoints a bit so they only get about 6v or so.

and set aside an hour or two...

The rings hold on the tire, they are beadlock rims. You want the beads on the tire tucked into that lip on the outer edge of the rim, then the rings hold it tight. Your pic shows the tire tucked onto the center of the rim.

I always do that when I take out a servo or something, especially if I'm shipping it. Keeps the wheels from flopping around.

That does look cool, those are fun little trucks to restomod.

Ouch! Glad to hear your daughter is ok! Loss of TX is no joke. I was racing my old 1/8 Duratrax Axis nitro buggy many, many years ago at the track, and coming down the front stretch and full throttle I bumped my radio on the drivers stand and apparently my battery door wasn't latched properly. All the AA's fell out, and all of a sudden i have a 9lb 40+ mph missile at screaming at full RPM and running out of control. Jumped the track, sailed out of the parking lot, across the field, across a busy 4 lane highway and ended up in a pond on the other side of the road. Somehow it never hit anything (and made it across the highway in 1 piece, Frogger would be proud) but I was absolutely terrified of taking someone (or something) out. You can believe I made sure nothing like that ever happened again.

This is such a cool little project. Mechanical issues aside, it certainly looks the part no matter what body is on it. Associated just released the Element Enduro 12 and it's apparently a newer version of the CR12. On the crawler forums, the CR12 is known for it's gearbox issues even with brushed crawler setups. Apparently, Associated was listening so they redesigned the gearbox and skid completely to a more conventional setup. Should just drop in since it's the same chassis, and looks to my eye like it uses the same gears so it looks like all you'd need is the plastic transmission parts for the upgrade (PN 41124). Might be helpful. New Transmission Parts

Very nice! I had planned to swap over to the Kong body this year as well. My Dyna is due for a refresh. The stock wheels have a ton of offset, not surprised that they catch on the center tire. The portals push everything out and add a ton of scrub radius - combined with the offset on the wheels, they are going to touch. I run 1.9's just for that reason and they clear fine. I didn't like the rear steer at first, the steering bellcrank had some odd geometry compared to the front. The ball end with the servo drag link attached is way to close to the pivot point and the servo has very little leverage so I found my steering tended to flop a bit out back. plus I could only use about 25% of the servo's total throw - really not getting much torque that way. So in a big brain moment, I stretched out the bellcrank with a small piece of aluminum that moves the ball end for the servo link mount out away from that pivot point as much as possible. Ended up pretty easy to do. I lost a bit of steering throw, but it's much more solid at the wheels - the servo has better leverage and now can use almost full rotation. Made all the difference in the world. Maybe that might help? As far as the motor, I use a Holmes Crawlmaster 5 pole 20t 550 (on just 2S to save wear and tear.) Low speed resolution is fantastic, and it goes just above walking pace. Very happy with the combo.

Yes, nothing official, but running on tarmac and loose gravel. I was indeed running with the low ride specs which is basically shorter springs and some spacers in the shocks. I don't remember exactly how the shocks are set up spacer-wise, but I set the ride height to about the same as my XV01. Definitely helped with stability. I never ran the hotter motor with the current suspension, it might be better now. I was initially running HPI WR8 rally tires which were super grippy. Switching over the much harder Tamiya tires helped the traction roll a lot. I'm sure the proper setup is there somewhere, I just stopped messing with it. You've got me inspired though, maybe I'll paint it up and get back to it. It was a fun drive. I'd say go for it, and be sure to post up a thread!

I wish you luck! I tried to rally my CC01 years ago and it was a challenge - a fun challenge, but a challenge nonetheless. I ran a 3300kv motor in a low ride kit and with the stock out of the box settings it basically traction rolled at any speed above 1/2 throttle on any surface except loose gravel. The steering is very touchy at speed also, even with an HR steering kit. Some expo tuning on the radio helped a lot. That solid rear axle and front heavy nose makes for some .... interesting handling. I got it settled somewhat with stiff front springs, some thick silicone in the front diff and a very, very soft rear axle setup. I had the torque splitter in, but didn't like the rear braking only, so I took it back out. It hunkers down now in the back under acceleration and has more of a push at speed ilo digging in and rolling. It's a pretty cool setup once sorted out. Agree on the "diff spacer" - it you plan to put any power through that rear axle and the cast gears, it's cheap and easy insurance. I sadly wrecked the low ride body on the first battery pack (ouch) but the chassis lives on with a newer Toyota body and some touring car wheels. It now has a silver can with a 20t pinion and it's pretty zippy, but not nearly as fast. Handles pretty decent now for what it is. Forgive the dust, it's been a while since I touched it. I got the body mounted, but awaiting some paint.

Sure, locked diffs in this case are for offroad performance, specifically trail and crawling. With the stock differential when the weight comes off a tire or it's up in the air it will just spin and "diff out" - basically stopping your momentum. When are locked, both tires spin all the time. This truck is somewhere inbetween - it has some diff action, but it is super stiff with the silicone crammed in there. Should do fine out on the trail, I don't really see it as a hardcore crawler. Grease is a personal preference... Some people feel better cramming it in there (not sure why), some prefer it light. Some of the crawler guys will fill their axles/transmissions completely with grease for protection when running in water. Personally, cramming a lot of grease in the gearbox adds weight and just makes a mess. That's just my opinion. Here's my general rule of thumb: -I brush on a light coat of lightweight grease on my buggies, bashers, and any plastic crawler gears. I usually use a tub of Penzoil lightweight I've had for decades. It's super slick, whatever it is. I think above on the Squash, I used the kit grease for some reason, it came with Tamiya's good grease, so I used it. I just put a light bead down the middle of the gears and let it run in. - A spray on teflon coating type lube for on road cars (too much grease adds drag, this is nice, light, and slick) - Red and Tacky for steel gears in my crawlers, nitros, and basically anywhere I have metal gears in a driveline. It adds some drag initially, but loosens up after a run - it resists "fling off" much better than lighter grease. Has served me well for 30+ years.

Looking good! Always love a CC01 build. x2 on the HR setup for steering, far, far better than the GPM. I've tried everything I can think of to tighten up my GPM units, but they always round out - the HR unit is indexed far more deeply and so far the 2 I have are rock solid.

That looks great! - Stance is spot on.

Yessir! Looks right at home on the CR01, those big arches were made for monster tires after all. And thank you for the kind words on the TL01 - one of my favorite projects!

Been messing with the Squash a bit here and there. I went ahead and moved over the portals from my TL01 (Seen sitting low and sad in the back) and it made all the difference. Plenty of height under the chassis now and the lower gearing is much needed. Once I got the chassis where I wanted I started working on the body. I don't quite like it with scale tires... it just looks a bit off - especially in the front. I'm sure it's not nearly as noticeable when it's set up with the body at stock height and monster tires but lowered down I just don't like it. It's a shame, I really like this body but I decided to go a different route. I thought about a Clod body, it fits the wheelbase perfectly. I tried a few others CC02 bodies as well and they do indeed fit the chassis pretty well. I liked this one the best. With the portals, the front wheels have a lot of scrub so it needs a lot of clearance up front. This FJ body was already trimmed up a bit and it had the best clearance for the front. Plus, i just liked the look. I used some old TL01 rear body posts and they matched up perfectly with the holes already in the body. I do need to reinforce the rear a bit, it's quite wobbly. and as far as that Squashvan body, It will get a new home for sure - in fact, I think this is where it belongs. I will update here when I get it mounted.

3 packs, holy cow. That's a long hike! Totally agree with all the suggestions above, good stuff! I have 2 overlanding trucks that are set up for long runs - a TRX4 and a weird hybrid SCX10. The TRX4 is fun, it keeps me busy working the diffs and 2 speed, and with a sound unit (down low, it gets old quick if it's too loud) it's a total blast. And very capable. The SCX10 is a 4.19 truck for a little more scale challenge and hauls a little camp trailer around behind it - the trailer definitely keeps things interesting. I try and drive them with no "hand of God" too so winches, ropes, and sand ladders are on each, along with winch anchors strapped somewhere. Both are set up for full size batteries. A few thoughts: - I keep batteries in my bag. The truck may go for hours, but I don't. I run full size 4000-5000 packs on both trucks and they run forever. I need a break before they do, and since I'm stopped anyway, a quick battery change is no problem. Magnets or velcro or even screws for the body mounts for sure - I've lost I don't know how many body pins in the woods. Now I just keep spares in my bag. - Brushless all day. I like the feel of a brushed motor more, but for efficiency brushless is better, no question. I try to run the lowest KV I can get away with to buy more runtime. I think I have an 1800kv in the SCX and it's plenty for trail running. - weight really matters. My TRX4 is pretty heavy and it eats up the battery noticeably faster than my SCX10, even with the trailer. - Keep a plastic bag handy or some sort of cover for the radio in case you get caught in the rain. Truck may be waterproof, but the radio isn't! - make a "truck handle" - I keep one in my bag and I use it a lot more than I thought I would, especially with a few breakdowns this year. I took an old wire coat hanger, threaded it through an old wood handle I had laying around and then bent a few U's in it - it hooks under the axle and gives me a nice comfy handle to carry the truck. Not sure that I'm explaining that correctly, I should get a pic of this contraption. but it does come in handy.

I thought about stretching the chassis several times, in fact I made some aluminum rails but that's as far as it got. Joining 2 together to make a longer chassis? Brilliant! Such a great idea, looking forward to seeing how this one comes together!