southy

Build and fist run video of my Super Astute. Mated a Tamiya 10.5 turn TBLM-02S brushless motor to the TBLE-02S speed control. Plenty of power on tap to clear jumps.

I upgraded my sons Sand Viper from a Superstock TZ to a Ezrun 35A with 13T motor. The Ezrun is faster and has more punch but is very programable so you can tame it down if you wish. I also run these systems in my Sand Scorcher and Subaru Brat. I have 6 of these systems with various motor as well as Xerun systems. My oldest one would be about four years old now and still runs like new even after being dunked in salt water a number of time when running at the beach.

I run 2200mah Turnigy and DLG power 2S 25C Lipo in mine with a 13T Ezrun brushless system. Turnigy come from Hobbyking and DLG power have an Ebay store. There both pretty cheap, have good power and fit the radio box with room to spare. I put velcro tab on bottom to keep it in place.

Here's a thread of a twin brushless clod. http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...=brushless+clod

I have run 9T brushless in the past. The M03 gearbox is pretty strong as long as you run a steel pinion. The alloy pinion will only last a couple of runs and when it wears it will damage the spur gear. Stick with the 20 tooth pinion. The M03 is under geared standard so the 20 tooth is fine.

I use 2200mah Lipo's in mine. They fit easily and are very light.

I'm hoping for an original FAV followed by the Wild One. That being said this is a picture of one of the best DT-02's ive seen. Add a couple of machine guns and it's not hard to imagine this as a modern equivalent of the FAV..

Another vote for DB-01. The only negative I can see with this is your wife with a DB-01 will run rings around your Avanti.

The front shock layout yes but the rest, no. The F201 had the battery across the chassis with the motor running length ways and the TA06 had the motor running across the chassis and the battery length ways. I like the look of the motor layout and the attempt to balance the chassis. I'm not sure about the front shock layout. The only reason I can think of for Tamiya doing this is the ability to fit GT sports sedan style bodies to this chassis. If it was for performance I think we would see this feature on TRF cars.

Rear 51321, Front 51414. These are the dish wheels used on the TRF201 and with this combination you can use any aftermarket of 2WD off road tires. The fronts use a different size bearing to the 1150 used on most tamiya 2WD fronts.

I agree Willy, a silver can will never be equal to a 13.5T unless there is something wrong. I started this thread to see others opinions as I have seen this comment made on a number of occasions now and would like to know how people have come to the conclusion that 540 = 13.5T BL. Even in M chassis racing a good sports tuned will be able to compete with the Ezrun 13T (380 rotor) but I think this is only because of the limited gear ratio used in M chassis. Put them in another car with open gearing and the Ezrun will pull much taller gearing than the sports tuned. I personally have not had one of these good Sports Tuned but have seen some quick M03's over the years fitted with them. I have run a 13T Ezrun in my Xpress mini and it will smoke a M chassis in a straight line. The Xpress normally has a Superstock TZ fitted and the Ezrun is quicker even than this motor. Corners are another thing, I have never been able to make the Xpress turn well .

I keep seeing on this forum when people compare brushed vs brushless they state that a silver can brushed is = to 13.5T brushless. I don't know what brushless setup they are talking about but a 13.5T should smoke a 540 silver can. Since the 540 silver can race class was opened up to allow 21.5T brushless the silver can has become extinct in racing a most places I know off because they can't even compete with 21.5T. I know people with compare there rated RPM but comparing brushed RPM with brushless RPM is comparing apples to oranges. The torque output of the brushless is so much higher it will pull much taller gearing. Add to this adjustable timing advance for even more speed out of the brushless. Really, does the rated free revving RPM of a motor count for anything once they are fitted to a car. I can only think if you have a silver can 540 with the same power as a 13.5T brushless than you either have one awesome 540 or a dude 13.5T.

The old M03 aluminium upright, 53523 was flat like the standard M03 upright, but the newer M03R aluminium upright, 49441 which became the M05 aluminium upright, 54177 steps up and only requires a small spacer like the standard M05 upright. My M03R and M05PRO both have this upright fitted.

I've always used the aluminium knuckles on my M03's and M05's. Never bent one, problem solved and they also look bling.

Ezrun = sensorless. Xerun = sensored. The Xerun can run both sensored and sensorless motor and is more expensive. Ezrun only sensorless motors. The Xerun is a much better system but also more expensive. That A or amp rating on the ESC is for how fast a motor they can handle. I believe the current 25A is for 1/18 scale cars. The 35A will run down to 9T motors but will be pushing its limits with faster motors. Again this also depends on the car. Obviously a lighter car like the M03 with little wheels for less rotating mass will put less stress on the ESC and motor than a heavy offroader with large heavy wheels. The 60A can handle down to 5.5 motors.

KalEl63, for your MO3's have a good look at the Ezrun 35A ESC with 13T motor. This is the spec system used by nearly every club that races M chassis in Oz. If you have a club close to you that race mini, go have a look, they haul with this system. It will also work well in all those other cars you listed just depends on how fast you want to go. I Run a number of these systems with different motors. I Currently I have the 13T in my MO5PRO which I race. My Sand Scorcher and Subaru Brat also run the 13T Ezrun, I have tried the 9T motor in these but it just made them stupid fast and very hard to drive. They end up spending most of there time on there roof. Other cars I have run the 13T in are M03R, Xpress mini, CR-01, and my sons DT-02 sand viper. He found the Ezrun 13T to fast so now it is fitted with a Superstock TZ. If you plan on getting brushless for your M03's maybe try the Ezyrun 13T and give it a run in all your cars. This will give you a bench mark and if you want more power then you can get something faster. The good thing about the price of these things is they are so cheap you can get heaps of them. I currently have 6 Ezrun systems and an Xerun with plans of getting more Xeruns. Here some 13T mini racing. With the limited gearing of the M chassis they get huge runtimes. When I recharge my Lipo's after a 6 minute race they only take about 1000mah. and motor and ESC are only warm.

Again we are comparing different technology with brushed vs brushless and the way they work in the car is different. In M chassis racing we used to use sports tuned motor (black can) and now we use the Ezrun 13T system. We limit the M chassis gearing to the 20 tooth pinion. Even with restricted gearing the Ezrun is faster. There are some motor tuners out there who can get the sports tuned to match the Ezrun but not many and this is still only with fix gearing. This is another reason we changed from sports turned to Ezrun. Out of the box the sport tuned motors are very inconsistent and wear out quickly. I have an Ezrun 13t that spent nearly 2 years in a M03R and the last 6 months in my M05PRO and still goings quick as the day I got it. I've used the Ezrun 13t in my 4wd Xpress mini which has open gearing and the little thing is a bullet when geared up. The 13T Ez run is faster than the Super Stock TZ that is normally fitted to the Xpress with an LRP F1 speedy. In a car where the gearing is not limited the extra torque of the brushless means it can be geared much higher making it much faster. The bonus with the brushless over the others, longer runtimes.

What model do you plan on putting this system in? For most basic models, this system will most likely be to fast. For TRF and well built race models, it will be awesome but you better have quick reflexes. My TRF201 is currently fitted with the XERUN 60A ESC and a 17.5T Losi Xcelorin motor. Even with this mild motor the 201 still flys and if I tighten the slipping pulling wheelies every time you pull the trigger. The XERUN is a very different ESC to the EZRUN in that it will make a motor of the same KV rating go much faster. When looking at motors don't get to wrapped up in their peak rev rating. No motor will see those revs when fitted to a car. The KV rating is a good guide but in brushless, the ESC is where most of the magic happens. The same motor will put out different power with differing ESC's, especially if you compare turbo time ESC vs non turbo time ESC. This is why some are pushing to have turbo time ESC banned from 21.5 and 17.5 race classes. I have an old Novak Super Sport system 5800KV system that I don't use that much mainly because it does not have lip cutoff. The in car speed of my XERUN ESC with the Losi Xcelorin 17.5T, which has a KV rating of 1820KV easily matches the Novak system. 5800KV vs 1820KV speed is pretty much the same? Yes because of the different ESC's. The Novak Super Sport does not have turbo timing like the XERUN. If I was to fit the Novak 5800KV motor to the XERUN ESC it would be ballistic. I avoid the temptation to do this as these early Novak brushless motors had issues with rotors and I don't think it would survive the extra RPM. The only difference between the black and blue XERUN systems is the colour.

I don't know much about Castle Creations Brushless systems but it sounds like something is set up wrong. With a 4600kv system the DT02 should be shredding tyres and doing backflips. My DT02MS has a 4300kv Ezrun system and it is almost uncontrollable. Can pull wheelies on command usually ending flipping and sliding down the road on it back.

Strange, the cover should fit the RS540 fine and be a little out for the sports tuned (black can) as they have 11 deg of timing.

I agree with Mark, if these two bearing aren't properly aligned this mod could cause problems including binding, vibration and extra pressure on the uni's. I don't know your engineering experience or how your bored the arm but from the picture I can see a small gap around one edge of the bearing from were it looks like the set screw is holding it in place. This could have the inner bearing out of alignment with the outer as it appears to be pushed of centre. I gotta say I have had no problems with my single bearing setup. Have you had any problems which made you do this mod?

I have the an alarm which I bought a while back but I don't use it any more as I was running the car once and could not hear the alarm until I stopped the car. I don't know how long it had been beeping for, luckily no damage to battery. I know have a hobbywing cutoff for my old brushed ESC's and it works great. the cutoff voltage is adjustable and it soots down instantly when it hit the low voltage.

Can I ask why the spur gear still has a plastic bush in it. Toss it and get some bearings.

http://www.racewear.com.au/product/subcategory.cgi?sc=34 This is the stuff. Do a google and or youtube search.

I see your dilemma. As good as modern off roader are to drive they can get boring because they just do everything well and don't really challenge your driving skills. I have a TRF201 but I find myself running my Sand Scorcher 2010 much more even though it handles like ****. It is just more fun and more of a challenge to drive.