Connor
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Posts posted by Connor
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I also would like to know if there are any replica parts for the above items???
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Nice car, but I would invest in some Tamiya club reproduction decals.
Hi, thanks for the input, but why the Tamiya club reproduction decals???
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Modern motors are far more powerful, cheaper and more durable than the good old technigold
But, for a vintage chassis, using a vintage motor just "feels" right.
The technigold is a 21 turn motor designed to give maximum power on 8.4 volts. I run mine on 7.2 with an ESC and a 13 tooth pinion and it accelerates very well.
The drawback is, the brushes wear faster than modern motors, and replacements are expensive. Its a sacrifice you have to make if you want to keep the whole truck vintage
Modern motors that I'd recommend are the tamiya 23 turn BZ or RZ. They will provide comparable performance to a technigold (possibly faster though I've not tested that) but won't wear out as fast.
My technigold isn't tamiya badged, its a graupner technigold - exactly the same motor though. It cost me £6 new in the box so I don't feel guilty using it
Well Im going to do a few different combo MB's a few vintage and a few with modern hop-up's, I will keep the technigold motor for the Vintage MB & purchase a more modern motor for whatever project I put together in the future!
I have seen your page with the new technigold's in the boxes where the badword did you find them!?!
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Hey Connor,
I've got a Technigold in my modded runner.
You need to shave some material from the suspension arm if you want the suspension to drop level, as the techingolds wider diameter can rubs on the suspension arm. It develops plenty of power for the chassis, much better than a standard motor
Hey Ed
Is Technigold the best you can get or are more modern aftermarket motors better?
(I have just bought yet another beetle with a Technigold in it - I will be in touch if I can't get it running right!)
Connor
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Try and describe the parts to me,
I have got used parts for the monster beetle/blackfoot.
I even have a complete blackfoot chassis with yokohama tyre to sell at some point.
K6 is the little plastic 'o' ring that sits inside the steering servo, J7 is the plastic Futaba servo ring that fits ontop of a Futaba servo, E9 is the plastic ring that clamps J7 into place!
G1 is the plastic top bar that supports the struts where the shell fits on at the sides and BP4 is the metal steering servo cover!
Hope you can understand all this
Connor
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Can anyone help me find the above parts to finish my beetle???
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BTW Connor, beautiful paint job!!
Well, I raced these when they first hit the street. Hop ups are a must with these trucks, the driveline is a good place to start. I used a Thorp set up then switched out the Thorp diff and used the standard diff, also got Team CRP outdrives to fit the dog bones.
Take a look at my Hopped up Beetle pics (especially the last pic) in my showroom in the link below:
Yeah that beetle is fine! The yellow paint stands out a mile, I like the different colours when they are done correctly (no dodgy personalised stickers as well), my next one is going to have a metalic blue undercoat then sprayed with a very thin coat of gold for the dust layer (hopefully it will create a mad effect)! I have ordered some CRP hop-up's from America, metal ball bearings, chassis stiffener, alu shocks, metal rear arm mounts & the CRP axel conversion kit! Then I was wanting some advice on a top-rated electronic speed controller & some sort of uprated motor! If you could give me any advice it would be much appreciated!
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Like those two tone rims. I have some high standard to try and match here!
Nearly all the wheels I have are in need of a re-spray! I am going to try and do different colour combo's mathcing whatever paint scheme I come up with next! Do you think I should do step by step instructions on how to refurbish MB (or any other R/C) rims? Would people be into that on here?
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Also can I use a Tamiya Technigold RX 540 VZ in a monster beetle without changing any other parts?
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Here is another photo with the shell on the other one's chasis.
As you can see the wheels were pretty badly scuffed, so again they have been sanded, primed, painted & laquered to give a sliver / gold split rim effect!
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Hello there MB fan's i'm new to the site and was given this forum as the best place for Vintage Monster Beetle help!
I have a vintage monster beetle & another one nearing completion here is the nearly finished chasis:
You can see that I have re-sprayed the original red chasis a metallic blue/silver as it had alot of sun damage & scuffs that have been sanded out before painting.
The chasis has been primed, painted & laquered with new waterbased car paints, I am a car bodywork restoration proffesional by trade and found it has come in very handy in doing the paintwork & restoring cracks, chips, dents & scuffs on the MB!
The shell has been painted with solvent based paints:
I should have taken a photo of what the car looked like before I started this project but from the underside of the shell you can see where the shell has been glued, plastic welded & filled!
I have dismantled & rebuilt this car (& the other one) about ten times in restoring it (should have followed the instructions more closely) but now could probably build one blindfolded with my hands tied behind my back!
So now im looking for info on what aftermarket products I could build my next MB with, I have heard of uprated shocks, motors, electronic speed contoller's, strengthening kits etc... but am unsure of where to look to purchase so any info given will be highly appreciated!
The bodywork isn't a problem for me, the paintwork on this beauty is a one-off specially mixed by me (the photo's don't do it justice) and is a burgandy/copper mix with about 10 different pearlescents / mettalics in it! It tottaly sparkles on a sunny day!!!
If anyone wants any advice on spraying please let me know.......
Monster Beetle Aluminum Parts
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
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What about a metal "G1" part that supports the shell???