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slydar

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About slydar

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  • Birthday 11/03/1981

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  1. I have a TA01 with an FRP chassis which I have previously used from drifting. Among a collection also including a TA02 and TA03F with much the same purpose and spec. The TA01 is the least relevant to me, and poorest performing of the 3 (although they do all have their unique traits which are fun). So what to do with it? Well the title makes that obvious, but I'd like to think there are a few people here who'd have the same idea. Built originally from a Cayenne kit, so has the "correct" black gearboxes. The FRP chassis is assembled from broken down Top Force Re-Re parts from Ebay. So I do have the rest of the essential J parts and mount bag parts. I haven't decided quite yet to what extent I'll compromise on using kit correct parts, but it will be a runner, so no real point being super picky. At first it will be Black Star dish rear wheels front and rear, and OP84 Square Spike tyres. For damper's i'm considering TGM02 Aluminum damper set 53545. These are a little more period looking, much cheaper than Hicaps, but a tiny bit too long at 100mm. They look like Gold 53280 Super Low Friction Dampers to me, just longer, so I think they would work well, but not sure if i shorten them with spacers if they'll have enough travel left. Other than that the new aeration buggy dampers that come in pairs and I've found similarly priced, I'm sure these are awesome but i'd prefer something without a threaded body.. I could also settle for something cheaper. Body is probably the part i'm least sure about. I'll probably end up with 2. A box art Top Force and custom Gravel Hound or Sand Viper runner body. Here's how it looks now.
  2. As title. I am aware of the Fibre-Lyte parts, thought I'd try my luck here first. The Press Parts Bag would be the ultimate, as I do need the wing stay and battery plates too (kinda). I'm after a fair few other DF01 parts too, converting a TA01 with FRP chassis to DF01. Cheers.
  3. drift rc cars are best set up with nice soft springs. just try the stock ones first. theyll probably work great.
  4. i know of trf chassis'... evo 3's and 4's, 415s, and ta05ms that have changed hands multiple times. and are still all on their original lower decks. they are all used for drift too. not babied. re 05 after market chassis. there are a lot of options. 3 racing is very common, a HK based hop up company but seems to be a decent kit especially for the price. then there are alot of obscure japanese brands. FLAP, Tech racing, etc. an american company peguin also do one. flap 3 racing http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/4884/ta05evodc9.jpg tech racing http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uploads/20...ta05athlete.jpg penguin http://www.penguinrc.com/graphics/product_pictures/p2020.jpg
  5. the R beats the badword out of the normal V2 in my opinion. regular spec to R spec is a BIG difference. if youre not a kid, and you can afford it, get at least the R. a stock ta05 is very "plasticy" still quite a toy. after a decent time running it will slop out alot and you WILL want to upgrade it. with R spec kits, they have basically every hop up you actually need right out of the box. even the material used for such things as the knuckles and suspensions arms is better (same as trf stuff). theyre every bit as adjustable as any trf as well. re trfs. i dont agree with other poster re parts availability at all. every consumable that you really need for a 415 is still available. the suspensions system is still the same as a ta05, and can be updated to 416 (tb03/ta05 v2) spec if you desire. things like bulk heads etc dont really wear and and are pretty hard to break. my next chassis is going to be TA05 based thats for sure. but i definitely wont be starting with a base model. either an R spec kit with the view to upgrade later with an aftermarket chassis kit. or a TA05 MS.
  6. i have run the 4300kv brushless combo in both the TA01 and TA03, with stock gearing. it seems pretty happy in either of them, gets a little hot if i use softer drift tires, but nothing super concerning. what i really want to know, is where abouts motor turn wise, i need to aim to get similar/slightly better performance (top speed) with a brushed motor. i am thinking a decent 15t should do it, in which case, i feel its a viable option. i am aware im am giving away some efficiency/run time, but as long as i can have the performance i need, without spending a lot more (hopefully less), id be happy to go with a brushed motor, as i prefer the look of the brushed motor in the older chassis. simply buying another brushless system similar to what i have just seems like a boring option. theyre basically all the same unless you spend a fair bit more money. it looks like i can buy a decent 15t motor for about 40 usd + post. and there's novak XRS on ebay that will run it for 50 usd. maintenance also isnt so much of an issue when alternating between 3 different chassis' anyway.
  7. ok, so thats a start. well i definitely dont want to go backwards, so the super cheap option is out. what about a 15t/13t brushed though, that would out run a 4300kv? no?
  8. So here is the story. ive just received my TA02 fron ebay, complete with frp chassis set and front and rear towers. basically whilst i do want to run this vehicle, i would also like to keep it a little more "period correct", and so therefore would like to run a brushed motor. at the current time i run a speed passion 4300kv brushless system in my TA01/03F. the engine performs well in the 03, and adequately in the 01. what i would like to know, is if a super stock RZ (with correct gearing) is going to have anywhere near the performance of my brushless set up? on paper, with my basic understanding the maths says it will be a little bit behind with stock gearing, but maybe i can gear it a little taller to make up the difference? depending on what opinions are then i might consider something hotter. although i do want to keep the total cost down to around 100 usd or thereabouts. a little more is fine, as long as it is going to have a decent amount more punch than my current brushless setup. im thinking of a futaba MC331CR. looks to be a nice speedy although it has a lower advertised turn limit than the 330 it replaces.. (15 v's 13) then maybe a 15t hpi drift meister. ultimately id like to run a dyna run super tourer... but the expense of this and the 330 over the 331 is just a little too much to spend i think. should also mention ill only use my cars for drifting. so its a little less load on the motor. thought/discussion welcome.
  9. i have spare k parts. i just built an 03f using 03r frp chassis kit and used the j parts for the battery holder. k parts are spare. pm me if you like.
  10. thanks and so all this will work as well? Tamiya (#51333) TRF416 E Parts (Rear Upright) Tamiya (#51332) TRF416 C Parts (Front Upright) 3Racing (#TA05-IF16/LB) Aluminium C Hub For TA05-IFS and maybe these? TOBEE (#20680) Lightweight Kingpin Set For TB02,TA05
  11. i want to upgrade my sus arms from plain plastic to carbon reinforced. but im not sure these will work with my C hub/knuckles/uprights. from the tamiya website. i guess that answers my question? can anyone confirm these will work without any other mods?
  12. it looks like youll need to run some taller gearing to get the best out of it.
  13. the steering is worth getting. when drifting, youre constantly steering, thats basically what its all about, having a nicer steering set up will just make for more accuracy and more fun. with a TT01, the front diff, just pack it full with grease. even an automotive type, just anything that is thick. this works well to "tighten" the front diff, which definitely helps it slide more predictably. i wouldnt upgrade the dog bones etc. on a TT, you want a steering set, maybe some toe in rear uprights (rcmart TT01R type, theyre like $3) an alloy prop, bearings and down to a 19t motor (which i can say first hand, will work with a teu101bk). any further upgrades are wasted money really. the above set up will work and its fun, if you find its something youre into, you can get a TA05 or TB03 for not that much. and they need 0 mods to be 10x better than a TT. the TT suspension design is just a little too dated to ever perform any where near as well as tamiyas other tourers. plus they slop is massive and incurable really.
  14. hop ups include - TA03 super low friction dampner GPM dog bone style main drive shaft Yeah racing C knuckle full ball raced TA03 front one way Hard out drives (front) GPM and Yeah racing uni's rear diff is locked. its a bevel gear type, uses TT01 side gears and out drives ( done as i planned to fit a square brand diff locker) Tamiya FRP rear towers Top force FRP chassis. i did drill some extra holes to try out a different battery position. can be seen in the bottom photo. pictured with electrics, which are not included located in Australia. international post no problem. ill do it for actual cost. 150 USD or closest offer .
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