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slydar

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About slydar

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  • Birthday 11/03/1981

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  1. Some awesome photos shared on the RC10talk FB page, which I'm re sharing. Some interesting Tamiya's in there even Enjoy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/harold_brown/albums/72177720303176562/with/52478322925/
  2. TFE is definitely very light already though, pretty hard to drive on higher grip surfaces. I think the weight is a big thing. I ran a Top Force for while and used a full size lipo. When I switched to a shorty it never handled as well. I found these TLR weights are really handy, and pretty cheap. you can stack 2, if you use the 2 heavy ones its about 60g. On the lack of chassis kick up, I've run an 870c before, in some ways similar. I was worried about the flat underside but I never really had a problem? With the 1 way you tend to drive/jump it a less aggressive way (than a modern car) I found, so didn't really have an issue with it, but probably as you push more and more it could start to be a limitation.
  3. Just wanted to chime in and say thank you for taking the time to post all this Very interested to here how the car goes as you get to run it more. You mentioned the car being "very light". Do you have an actual figure in grams? are we talking 1500g? less? How do you find/expect the ball diffs to hold up on the higher grip tracks? Kick up angle? The rear anti-squat is 3*? same as Dyna?
  4. Yeah I am just doing a build from parts and the K parts are obviously no longer available. I'm lucky to have a good contact for cnc cutting chassis plates/towers etc, so the chassis can be whatever. I've tried forming the material myself before with a very basic female mold/male plug but it didn't go so well.
  5. Bit more work today. Fairly happy already with how this car handles, but was definitely lacking a little punch. It's not anymore Slightly over kill for sure, but the LRP speedo and the R1 17.5 are currently not being used in the race rigs so they have found a new, maybe temporary, maybe not home. It seems super fast though even with the smallest pinion, 16t, at around 7 ish FDR. Feels like maybe a good plan to drop down to a (cheaper) 21.5t and gear it down more. Also fitted up the Pragu front bulkhead. It's a great option to have, and I'm sure its stronger than the stock part, but I can definitely see a few places I'd do things differently. TA03 Ball diff also installed. Have run about 5 packs now and seems to be holding up. And obviously, the proper wing mounted and painted. Stoked with how that turned out Also added basic little "turn buckle" brace for the transmission. M06 trans is a little flimsier at the front mounting "tabs". This is usually a full length column, but with this brace is it seems really solid, with plenty of jumps it is still staying put with the brace in place even with both tabs cracked through (which happened before adding the brace).
  6. I've seen these on a few peoples builds. Obviously an aftermarket part, but does anyone know who produced these and if they're still available?
  7. Little update. I have a couple of little jumps in the backyard now, which gave me some motivation to fiddle around with this thing again. Got the shocks set up pretty nicely now. Also Improved how the gearbox is mounted. I shortened the standoffs down 2.4mm so the gear case can sneak under the FRP rear brace/body mount plate. It's a very snug fit now Link to video on my insta'. https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cj7GpLPjLbM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
  8. As title. I have a DT02 Buggy I have previously set up as a Stadium Truck, I used some Thunder Tiger rims last time but they're a bit big. I'd like to use the Blitzer style rims, but wondering what material they're made from, hoping its not ABS so I can strip the tyres easily once worn, otherwise I might try to figure something else out.
  9. this seems a bit redundant now with the other video just posted, but anyway
  10. I like bora's parts, and he's a great resource. But I just want to see how it handles with the longer wheel base and swaybars before altering the rear geo. I already have some extra toe from the knuckles, some small amount of anti squat would probably be good but I don't run a very aggressive anti squat setting in my race cars. One reservation I have about bora's rear end kit is the TF has a lot of rear overhang already, and our track surface is very abrasive, we run skid plates to stop the rear end wearing away. Seems like the added D block would cop a real hiding on TF the way it is.
  11. Yeah Lee builds the cars and Jamie just drives them it seems like. They both attended "Oldschool RC Euro Masters" last week and I'm pretty sure they 1-2'd. Lots of other Top Forces too. I like his solution for a longer prop shaft but my car was built from parts, so to achieve what he's done I'd need to source a standard shaft AND the egress parts. I've found a few options already for longer shafts to suit my ends, in stock at a few local shops
  12. remove the shocks/damper from the car. Also the wheels. If the ARB is working correctly, if you lift one arm, the other should lift too. When I service my car I'll make a video.
  13. this guy has a hopper, hornet, and a new frp chassis DT based project. https://www.instagram.com/sorarin.nana/ these guys are worth checking out too https://www.instagram.com/street_rc_association/
  14. I do stare longingly at the Grasshoppers at the local hobby shop lately. Do you follow many of the japanese guys that chop these up? There's quite a few on instagram. Looking forward to watching this unfold
  15. It isn't something that bothers me. I race 2wd and 4wd stock, in my 2wd car I use a slipper eliminator. In 4wd stock the motor size is 13.5, which on high grip is about the realistic limit of the transmission, so for me it works out. 4wd stock is still extremely fast, and a good somewhat realistic goal for a car which was a little behind the times as far as race kits are concerned, 30 years ago when it was released Certainly a slipper, or center diff of some description can be an advantage/reduce lap times, but that is also straying a little too far from the original design. IIRC, the Manta Ray came first, novice/intermediate/price point level car, never intended to race competitively. Even the TF at the time of its release, with loose surfaces, low grip tyres, and low torque brushed motors I don't see need for one. 4wd cars don't really need a traction aids, and now you have so many settings in your TX and esc they're definitely not 100% necessary.
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