slydar

The link Saito2 has provided has some very good points from very knowledgeable users. The slipper is not necessarily the main drawback. The main thing is the durability, this may or may not be a game-stopper, it just depends on the tracks/surface you plan to run on. The UK guys seems to go ok with the TF, but the tracks they run vintage on don't have a lot of jumps, other places in the world modern 10th track do, and that is going to be a big problem. There are many alu options that increase durability on the DF01, but you can never get around the fact that at the core, but gearbox's are the bulkheads, and they are just ABS, on top of which, the front tower is held in place with only 2 screws. You can buy all the Custom RC alu bits and that will solve most of the other problems, but that's quite a lot of money to spend on a car which was an inferior drivetrain+diffs, suspension geometry, etc, to a stock Optima. the front lower arm mount also loves to break, and once you upgrade to alu, then gearbox itself just breaks off the chassis plates, I am speaking from experience If on the other hand you have something like what we have at our club, which is a small, secondary track designed specifically for vintage cars, then yeah, a TF is an option. I can see where you're coming from, and I wholeheartedly can say it's a very satisfying process beating the AE's and Losi's with a Tamiya (I've done it, albeit with an Astute), but just trying to stress you need to be realistic about what's actually possible

There are more limitations on the Top Force than the lack of a slipper in reality. Depending or the surface they are an ok solution for vintage racing but the problem with producing parts to race the buggy is that there are now many more options for the re release cars than 10 years ago etc. Optima Mid, Schumacher Top Cat? And Yokomo 870c mere months away which surely means 91-93 YZ10 are in the pipeline. Still non of these cars can really compete with modern cars. A well set up and we'll driven one could circulate and not be embarassing, compete, no.

Some awesome photos shared on the RC10talk FB page, which I'm re sharing. Some interesting Tamiya's in there even Enjoy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/harold_brown/albums/72177720303176562/with/52478322925/

TFE is definitely very light already though, pretty hard to drive on higher grip surfaces. I think the weight is a big thing. I ran a Top Force for while and used a full size lipo. When I switched to a shorty it never handled as well. I found these TLR weights are really handy, and pretty cheap. you can stack 2, if you use the 2 heavy ones its about 60g. On the lack of chassis kick up, I've run an 870c before, in some ways similar. I was worried about the flat underside but I never really had a problem? With the 1 way you tend to drive/jump it a less aggressive way (than a modern car) I found, so didn't really have an issue with it, but probably as you push more and more it could start to be a limitation.

Just wanted to chime in and say thank you for taking the time to post all this Very interested to here how the car goes as you get to run it more. You mentioned the car being "very light". Do you have an actual figure in grams? are we talking 1500g? less? How do you find/expect the ball diffs to hold up on the higher grip tracks? Kick up angle? The rear anti-squat is 3*? same as Dyna?

Yeah I am just doing a build from parts and the K parts are obviously no longer available. I'm lucky to have a good contact for cnc cutting chassis plates/towers etc, so the chassis can be whatever. I've tried forming the material myself before with a very basic female mold/male plug but it didn't go so well.

Bit more work today. Fairly happy already with how this car handles, but was definitely lacking a little punch. It's not anymore Slightly over kill for sure, but the LRP speedo and the R1 17.5 are currently not being used in the race rigs so they have found a new, maybe temporary, maybe not home. It seems super fast though even with the smallest pinion, 16t, at around 7 ish FDR. Feels like maybe a good plan to drop down to a (cheaper) 21.5t and gear it down more. Also fitted up the Pragu front bulkhead. It's a great option to have, and I'm sure its stronger than the stock part, but I can definitely see a few places I'd do things differently. TA03 Ball diff also installed. Have run about 5 packs now and seems to be holding up. And obviously, the proper wing mounted and painted. Stoked with how that turned out Also added basic little "turn buckle" brace for the transmission. M06 trans is a little flimsier at the front mounting "tabs". This is usually a full length column, but with this brace is it seems really solid, with plenty of jumps it is still staying put with the brace in place even with both tabs cracked through (which happened before adding the brace).

I've seen these on a few peoples builds. Obviously an aftermarket part, but does anyone know who produced these and if they're still available?

Little update. I have a couple of little jumps in the backyard now, which gave me some motivation to fiddle around with this thing again. Got the shocks set up pretty nicely now. Also Improved how the gearbox is mounted. I shortened the standoffs down 2.4mm so the gear case can sneak under the FRP rear brace/body mount plate. It's a very snug fit now Link to video on my insta'. https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cj7GpLPjLbM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

As title. I have a DT02 Buggy I have previously set up as a Stadium Truck, I used some Thunder Tiger rims last time but they're a bit big. I'd like to use the Blitzer style rims, but wondering what material they're made from, hoping its not ABS so I can strip the tyres easily once worn, otherwise I might try to figure something else out.

this seems a bit redundant now with the other video just posted, but anyway

I like bora's parts, and he's a great resource. But I just want to see how it handles with the longer wheel base and swaybars before altering the rear geo. I already have some extra toe from the knuckles, some small amount of anti squat would probably be good but I don't run a very aggressive anti squat setting in my race cars. One reservation I have about bora's rear end kit is the TF has a lot of rear overhang already, and our track surface is very abrasive, we run skid plates to stop the rear end wearing away. Seems like the added D block would cop a real hiding on TF the way it is.

Yeah Lee builds the cars and Jamie just drives them it seems like. They both attended "Oldschool RC Euro Masters" last week and I'm pretty sure they 1-2'd. Lots of other Top Forces too. I like his solution for a longer prop shaft but my car was built from parts, so to achieve what he's done I'd need to source a standard shaft AND the egress parts. I've found a few options already for longer shafts to suit my ends, in stock at a few local shops

remove the shocks/damper from the car. Also the wheels. If the ARB is working correctly, if you lift one arm, the other should lift too. When I service my car I'll make a video.

this guy has a hopper, hornet, and a new frp chassis DT based project. https://www.instagram.com/sorarin.nana/ these guys are worth checking out too https://www.instagram.com/street_rc_association/