Jump to content

slydar

Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

66 Excellent

About slydar

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/03/1981

Recent Profile Visitors

1080 profile views
  1. Yes 3mm. Really the main purpose is a skid plate, as although our track is outdoors, it's a sealed surface, basically sand with glue in it, and almost as hard as concrete, and maybe even more abrasive. So 3mm means there's some room to counter sink the screws a little deeper, so as the skid plate wears down, it doesn't wear the heads of the bolts as much, making them impossible to remove
  2. I re-made the body mount for my DT02 Stadium Truck conversion in Kydex. Also built this skid plate/bumper/motor guard/wheelie bar
  3. Don't know about the gearing etc, but these are excellent motors.
  4. Don't know about the gearing etc, but these are excellent motors.
  5. Doing some little things now. Remade the front body mount in Kydex, and put a radius on the bottom of the posts, looks a lot better. Never worked with this material before, it's really easy and workable And made a bumper/skid plate/wheelie bar/motor guard. Our track is super abrasive, so this is a must. Also means I can look at cutting away the gearbox around the motor for some cooling, and maybe adding a fan. I might put one more bend in it to bring it in tighter, but it will probably protect the body better like this, and maybe leave more room for a fan, so I'll think on it for a little while. New body is the next job.
  6. This is how it sits now, vintage body took a beating setting it up, but the race tape kinda suits it . I think the arms make it about 6-8mm a side wider at the front, and a little less at the rear. this is just enough to make the proportions work. It's definitely not as wide as a modern ST, but it's about the same as a Blitzer, just with a bit bigger tyres. Pretty stoked I was able to put my DT02 to use. The set up is not going to win any races, but it's drivable enough to get out there as a second car to make race day more fun, and nice to have a Tamiya out there.
  7. Testing Saturday was a bit of a disappointment. It looked cool, was crazy fast and did great wheelies, but was just about un-drivable really. With some evening pondering I decided to give it another go. Removed the 10.5 and swapped in the 13.5 from my DF01, as that car is due a major rebuild anyway. The major re-think though was the front set up. I carried over the set up (springs, dampers pistons, oil etc) from when it was set up as a buggy as I had this working quite well. But somewhat obviously, although the truck rear tyres are a bit bigger than a buggy, they're comparable, the front's though obviously aren't. The car was pitching onto its front tyres and rolling over and pitching onto the front way too much. Luckily though, I was able to get touring car springs to work. I also changed from 2 hole pistons to 1, and went to 45wt up from 35. This photo was from earlier in the day. Was basically good out of the box. But I ended up to even stiffer front springs, and changing the rear shock oil from 35 to 45 also. Other than that it was just normal break in things coming loose, and learning a new car, got really lucky and had the track mostly to myself, other than this inquisitive guy. I did have one mishap, came off the track over a jump and hit one of the bolts that holds the pipe in and bent the knuckle, tried bending it back and.. lesson learned. No big deal though as I had some alu C hubs and knuckles at home, so all fixed now
  8. I didn't really take a lot more process shots. Here it is. I put the Body on, with the standard arms, and it was just touch too narrow to work but with clearance, and aesthetically. So it now has Traxxas Rustler arms front and rear, and also the rear hubs. The arms themselves are actually aftermarket RPM brand, front arms being their wide version, and some alu rear uprights. They are "almost" a bolt up job. at the front I had to drill out the outer hinge pin hole to 3mm, and add some 3mm I.D alu spacers to fit the Tamiya C hubs. also had to trim a tiny bit off the arm on the outside with a hobby knife, so I could run my DT02 shafts. The inner part of the arm needed around 0.1-0.2mm? shave off also so it wouldn't bind on the DT02 bulkhead. The rear needed about 3-4mm of spacer on the inner hinge pin as the Traxxas arms were a bit wide. These photos show the first set up for testing on Saturday. With the body mount mostly un modified Rustler (I think) front body mount and 10.5t Brushless motor.
  9. Yeah thanks, it does help. While I'm in the ball park for recommended FDR with 10.5 motors using a 31t, going off what I've found with the car I have set up for racing stock, I will probably want to go lower 👍
  10. Took quite a while, but I will say Tamico were very good with keeping me updated with whatever info they got from DHL. It's actually the small parts I was really waiting on, now finally have the new towers for my DT02 stadium truck project 👍
  11. Nope. Tamiya list their the dimensions on their cars using the term "tread width" This is the conventional way these terms are used, but I think Tamiya use "tread width" for track.
  12. Some shock building as promised. Super exciting stuff My last CVA's for this DT02 were set up with 25wt Losi shock oil, 2 hole pistons front, and 1 rear. I've gone slightly heavier with 35wt AE oil, maybe equivalent to 30-32 losi? There is a chart. These are from a broken up Blitzer Beetle kit. I am going to use the kit springs to begin with, seem like the rates are close to what I had with the buggy set up, but they fit better. Although I generally agree with the prevailing opinion on Tamiya Club that CVA's are decent, one thing I have noticed compared to other shocks is the sloppy fit piston/valve on the shock shaft, so I've decided to try adding some shims. Before - After - Also using AE O-ring grease And some of these damper ball ends harvested from the Dyna Blaster, which I've trimmed down a little. Got a fair even/uniform amount of by holding them in the chuck of the drill, and spinning them up while buffing them down with the Dremel Here it is as a roller again. Tyre's tomorrow, so we'll see where we're really at with body clearance
  13. Should be an easy one for someone 😊 Tamiya's interpretation of "tread width" is it outside of tyre to tyre? Or centre to centre?
  14. My car isn't a Dyna Storm, but will post some pics as soon as the build starts properly. My car is mostly re-re astute, with the tranny from a busted old Dyna Blaster, and I'm building a TRF211X Style upper deck for it. I'm going to run the car in mod, with a 10.5 brushless motor. So need to be down around 9:1 FDR and Lower. Searched some posts or yours and saw what you mentioned, so I've ordered 30+31 😊
×
×
  • Create New...