slydar

The link Saito2 has provided has some very good points from very knowledgeable users. The slipper is not necessarily the main drawback. The main thing is the durability, this may or may not be a game-stopper, it just depends on the tracks/surface you plan to run on. The UK guys seems to go ok with the TF, but the tracks they run vintage on don't have a lot of jumps, other places in the world modern 10th track do, and that is going to be a big problem. There are many alu options that increase durability on the DF01, but you can never get around the fact that at the core, but gearbox's are the bulkheads, and they are just ABS, on top of which, the front tower is held in place with only 2 screws. You can buy all the Custom RC alu bits and that will solve most of the other problems, but that's quite a lot of money to spend on a car which was an inferior drivetrain+diffs, suspension geometry, etc, to a stock Optima. the front lower arm mount also loves to break, and once you upgrade to alu, then gearbox itself just breaks off the chassis plates, I am speaking from experience If on the other hand you have something like what we have at our club, which is a small, secondary track designed specifically for vintage cars, then yeah, a TF is an option. I can see where you're coming from, and I wholeheartedly can say it's a very satisfying process beating the AE's and Losi's with a Tamiya (I've done it, albeit with an Astute), but just trying to stress you need to be realistic about what's actually possible

There are more limitations on the Top Force than the lack of a slipper in reality. Depending or the surface they are an ok solution for vintage racing but the problem with producing parts to race the buggy is that there are now many more options for the re release cars than 10 years ago etc. Optima Mid, Schumacher Top Cat? And Yokomo 870c mere months away which surely means 91-93 YZ10 are in the pipeline. Still non of these cars can really compete with modern cars. A well set up and we'll driven one could circulate and not be embarassing, compete, no.

Some awesome photos shared on the RC10talk FB page, which I'm re sharing. Some interesting Tamiya's in there even Enjoy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/harold_brown/albums/72177720303176562/with/52478322925/

TFE is definitely very light already though, pretty hard to drive on higher grip surfaces. I think the weight is a big thing. I ran a Top Force for while and used a full size lipo. When I switched to a shorty it never handled as well. I found these TLR weights are really handy, and pretty cheap. you can stack 2, if you use the 2 heavy ones its about 60g. On the lack of chassis kick up, I've run an 870c before, in some ways similar. I was worried about the flat underside but I never really had a problem? With the 1 way you tend to drive/jump it a less aggressive way (than a modern car) I found, so didn't really have an issue with it, but probably as you push more and more it could start to be a limitation.

Just wanted to chime in and say thank you for taking the time to post all this Very interested to here how the car goes as you get to run it more. You mentioned the car being "very light". Do you have an actual figure in grams? are we talking 1500g? less? How do you find/expect the ball diffs to hold up on the higher grip tracks? Kick up angle? The rear anti-squat is 3*? same as Dyna?

Yeah I am just doing a build from parts and the K parts are obviously no longer available. I'm lucky to have a good contact for cnc cutting chassis plates/towers etc, so the chassis can be whatever. I've tried forming the material myself before with a very basic female mold/male plug but it didn't go so well.

Bit more work today. Fairly happy already with how this car handles, but was definitely lacking a little punch. It's not anymore Slightly over kill for sure, but the LRP speedo and the R1 17.5 are currently not being used in the race rigs so they have found a new, maybe temporary, maybe not home. It seems super fast though even with the smallest pinion, 16t, at around 7 ish FDR. Feels like maybe a good plan to drop down to a (cheaper) 21.5t and gear it down more. Also fitted up the Pragu front bulkhead. It's a great option to have, and I'm sure its stronger than the stock part, but I can definitely see a few places I'd do things differently. TA03 Ball diff also installed. Have run about 5 packs now and seems to be holding up. And obviously, the proper wing mounted and painted. Stoked with how that turned out Also added basic little "turn buckle" brace for the transmission. M06 trans is a little flimsier at the front mounting "tabs". This is usually a full length column, but with this brace is it seems really solid, with plenty of jumps it is still staying put with the brace in place even with both tabs cracked through (which happened before adding the brace).

I've seen these on a few peoples builds. Obviously an aftermarket part, but does anyone know who produced these and if they're still available?

Little update. I have a couple of little jumps in the backyard now, which gave me some motivation to fiddle around with this thing again. Got the shocks set up pretty nicely now. Also Improved how the gearbox is mounted. I shortened the standoffs down 2.4mm so the gear case can sneak under the FRP rear brace/body mount plate. It's a very snug fit now Link to video on my insta'. https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cj7GpLPjLbM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

As title. I have a DT02 Buggy I have previously set up as a Stadium Truck, I used some Thunder Tiger rims last time but they're a bit big. I'd like to use the Blitzer style rims, but wondering what material they're made from, hoping its not ABS so I can strip the tyres easily once worn, otherwise I might try to figure something else out.

this seems a bit redundant now with the other video just posted, but anyway

I like bora's parts, and he's a great resource. But I just want to see how it handles with the longer wheel base and swaybars before altering the rear geo. I already have some extra toe from the knuckles, some small amount of anti squat would probably be good but I don't run a very aggressive anti squat setting in my race cars. One reservation I have about bora's rear end kit is the TF has a lot of rear overhang already, and our track surface is very abrasive, we run skid plates to stop the rear end wearing away. Seems like the added D block would cop a real hiding on TF the way it is.

Yeah Lee builds the cars and Jamie just drives them it seems like. They both attended "Oldschool RC Euro Masters" last week and I'm pretty sure they 1-2'd. Lots of other Top Forces too. I like his solution for a longer prop shaft but my car was built from parts, so to achieve what he's done I'd need to source a standard shaft AND the egress parts. I've found a few options already for longer shafts to suit my ends, in stock at a few local shops

remove the shocks/damper from the car. Also the wheels. If the ARB is working correctly, if you lift one arm, the other should lift too. When I service my car I'll make a video.

this guy has a hopper, hornet, and a new frp chassis DT based project. https://www.instagram.com/sorarin.nana/ these guys are worth checking out too https://www.instagram.com/street_rc_association/

I do stare longingly at the Grasshoppers at the local hobby shop lately. Do you follow many of the japanese guys that chop these up? There's quite a few on instagram. Looking forward to watching this unfold

It isn't something that bothers me. I race 2wd and 4wd stock, in my 2wd car I use a slipper eliminator. In 4wd stock the motor size is 13.5, which on high grip is about the realistic limit of the transmission, so for me it works out. 4wd stock is still extremely fast, and a good somewhat realistic goal for a car which was a little behind the times as far as race kits are concerned, 30 years ago when it was released Certainly a slipper, or center diff of some description can be an advantage/reduce lap times, but that is also straying a little too far from the original design. IIRC, the Manta Ray came first, novice/intermediate/price point level car, never intended to race competitively. Even the TF at the time of its release, with loose surfaces, low grip tyres, and low torque brushed motors I don't see need for one. 4wd cars don't really need a traction aids, and now you have so many settings in your TX and esc they're definitely not 100% necessary.

There's quite a few. Some UK ones which seem to emulate to a degree some works cars campaigned in the 90's. Some euro ones which are a little wilder with quite significant changes to the rear gearbox/suspension area, one of which was posted here semi recently. I guess I am going for a little closer to the first example, but even more "period" aesthetically.

This will be a slow burner, but I now have a friend in the club I race at who owns a CNC router . For the idea's I have this is a big plus. I have been on and off working on my DF01 trying to prepare it for racing. My goal originally was to build something that was somewhat capable of club racing against modern buggies, as from "reading the internet" this seemed to be an achievable goal. I no longer fully agree with what is sometimes implied, but I'm invested now. Both monetarily and emotionally. I ran the car at the track quite a lot by myself just practicing. While it wasn't super reliable, it seemed enough so that with a few of the common available mods, it would be. The car now has those mods and in my experience, they haven't been a satisfactory solution. The track where I run is a big part of the issue with breakages. It's a "synthetic" surface, which in basic terms is a course sand, packed down with PVA style glue solution in it. It's also very high grip, which probably isn't helping, but overall it's a great track and a a great club, so we will persevere. The Top Force is also extremely light compared to my modern race buggies. Which makes it harder to drive, which, you guessed it, cause a greater number of crashes, I don't want to completely change the design/spirit of the car though, but I will be adding some things to help it work with the lower weight, so, here are the plans. LWB chassis. Compared to a modern buggy, the Top Force is quite a short wheelbase, coupled with the light weight, it can get unsettled much more easily. The car currently has the YR modified alu prop shaft. this gives normal dog bone style ends. this opens up the possibility of using other shafts of similar design, standard YR shaft is 168mm. I am aiming for something 12-15mm longer. Another reason for me to do a custom chassis is to go back to 2.5mm FRP. I think this will help durability, with the flex taking some energy away from the gear cases. Especially the front gearbox/chassis lower junction. if possible, which it looks to be, I will extend front section of the chassis here to pick up the rear 2 lower gearbox holes. The rear gearcase/arm amounts is another issue. while there are some neat solutions already offered, I want to stay a little closer to stock, something someone might have done at the time of the cars release. so I will just be adding longer hinge pins, and cross braces front and rear. the rear also tied into the rear gear cover probably. Rear ARB will be mounted to a plate at the front of the tower, which I will integrate the mount for a brace from the tower to the gearbox. Traditionally done with a turnbuckle, but I will use another FRP plate, so that it works a little better in tensions and compression. Front ARB will be mount on another FRP plate, mounted on top of the front gearbox by drilling through the bumper holes. may or may not help durability, but it's the neatest place for it I think. Will do some towers in FRP too. For a little more flex again to absorb some of the energy before it gets to the gear cases. maybe some design changes to the rear, for stock length and maybe integrate the race mount into the actual tower. Lastly, Customised front gearbox cover. I will "fill in" in between the back of the tower and cover, probably use epoxy filler for this at first. I can then add through holes drilled through the tower/bulked J part, screwing into the added material. could potentially print this part, but is a pretty complex design with the bearing locations. Very long post with not much action "Top" points if you read the whole thing. This is what the car looks like now It will look quite different though when done

I REALLY don't think they are intentionally limiting production. There is just way way more demand. Coupled with production issues which are out of the factories control. Apparently, due to staff and supply issues. PS-5 is basically at "availability to be advised" stage. I'm sure they're not intentionally limiting production of black paint to manipulate the market. I also don't think it's such a bad thing, you KNOW when a car comes out if it's a must have, and you buy it. And mostly, if you miss out you will probably get a 2nd chance. TF Evo's, my shop ordered 7, got one. Since then, there's been another batch, and they now have 2 on the shelf that have been sitting there for weeks. Also globally, it seems like certain markets get one model first, and then months later, the whole batch goes to another continent, sometimes frustrating, but means you get some warning.

I have three 1/10th race buggies. I'm not a veteran, but I've made the A main every race so far this year. I'd say the rear is more important than the front as a general statement, and you will definitely find more full scale vehicles with rear only. Obviously the dynamics of a rear engine RWD 10th scale off-road buggy are different, but not completely. A few points. With off-road RC cars, you have jumps and turns. So choosing the spring rates and ground clearance is always a compromise. ARB's can help with this compromise (sometimes) but it does add complexity. I would always think if you are starting from scratch, and the kit does not come with ARB's, or even if it does, leave the tuning of the ARB's till last, as a fine tuning method. With the Dyna though, they may certainly help because you have such limited adjustments with roll center, anti dive, castor, etc. My Xray XB2C had none when I got it. I recently softened the spring rate as our track is a little less grippy than it was. I added a a rear bar, (1.1mm, then 1.2, now back to 1.1) and this really helped. If you read up about full scale suspension dynamics, its often said the rear ARB affects the front more, and vice versa. I definitely found this to be the case. Also the XB2's didn't really have provision for a front ARB until the 2020 models were released. My Durango DEX410 has them fitted front and rear. I removed the front to get a little more grip and because this seemed to be a very common setup on the set up sheet's for this model, seemed to help a fair bit. My Serpent SDX4 Has them fitted front and rear and I have not touched them. The car handles amazingly well. Comparatively I do my fastest laps with this car. I'm currently tuning my Top Force to work a bit better on the track. I've recently gone to MUCH softer spring rates, as the car is super light compared to the modern buggies. Soft springs helped a lot, and I am going to play with this more first, but I have the feeling adding them to this car, even though tricky as they were never offered for DF01 (to my knowledge) will make a very positive difference. Lots of people setting these up to race on modern tracks seem to go to the trouble to add them on their builds. Hope you can make sense of this, and it helps.

Very neat work, especially the home made chassis plate

Specifically the ABS. The Top Force I have now started life as a DF01 Porsche Cayenne. This was used as a base to build a TA01 touring car, with the first version of re-re Top Force J parts and FRP chassis plates, about 10 years ago. The gearbox's and J parts lasted years of drifting, and when recently rebuilt into a buggy, lasted a good number of months. Recently replaced parts last days. Hopefully bad luck. I just really thought during a recent Hotshot re-re build that the ABS has a different feel to it, but it's probably in my head

Made a wire wing stay for my TF out of piano wire. Broken a number of these, so nice to be able to replace them more readily, and cheaper.