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About Champ85

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  1. Started masking a repro body from MarwanRC for a vintage Kyosho Turbo Optima that I got from an eBay auction 7 (!) years ago and rebuilt last month. Planning on using Tamiya metallic red, white and black and following the box art layout. Here the window masks were applied and white is masked off first: I do not enjoy the masking process. I enjoy it even less when more than one color is involved. Three is my limit and this complicated layout is really trying my patience.
  2. I think I would have put that box into the trunk of my car right next to the wife's jewelry box. Half-kidding aside, it really sucks to learn about this. Of all of the boxes for them to lose. Not the silverware. Not the dishes. Not the towels. No, it had to be the vintage RC box. These weren't just some random toys. Sorry dude.
  3. I've said this before and I'll say it again: If you think you want something and it's available now for a reasonable price, buy it now or you risk not being able to get it at a reasonable price ever again.
  4. Champ85

    first 4WD first run

    @axel68 Did you use belt or chain drive?
  5. If it didn't clear the cover, one suggestion would be to put a thin metal spacer between the motor and the motor mounting plate so the motor shaft doesn't stick out the other side as far. Something like a piece of 2mm thick aluminum plate cut and drilled appropriately, though not everyone has the material or tools to make such a thing. Edit: Actually I just did an eBay search for "motor spacer" inside Radio Control and Control Line and found a few choices of exactly that: a round piece of aluminum with holes designed to space the motor out from the mounting plate.
  6. To be fair, that pic is 0.6mod compared with 48p not 0.8 mod that I started this thread about. It's kind of evolved into general pitch/mod discussions and that's fine by me. As for 0.6mod vs 48p, they are quite different and definitely DO NOT interchange with each other. Maybe the above pic isn't a good view, but those two pinions are very different from each other. That 48p pinion was actually installed on the motor of the Lazer ZX when I got it from the seller. Just spinning the pinion manually on the spur made my skin crawl. It was SO OBVIOUS that the pinion was totally wrong for that spur. Thankfully, the spur only suffered very minor damage to the tips of the teeth and the edges as the pic shows. I cannot imagine what it must have sounded like. I didn't even try. Those spur gears are expensive and I did not want to risk damaging it further! The difference between 0.8mod and 32p is much smaller to the point that to the naked eye you cannot tell the difference. Right now, I'm 99% sure I've got a few Kyosho vehicles with 32p pinions mounted when they should be 0.8mod. My excuse is that at the time I thought Kyosho was using 32p and I didn't know about 0.8mod. Plus, it worked. Now I'm just an old fogy that likes to complain about minutia on forums. I was really just mad that hardly anybody manufactures 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" motor shafts any longer and needed to vent about it.
  7. Got a vintage Kyosho Optima with a heavy case of rust and oxidation. Not exactly sure how I'm going to restore it yet, but I have some ideas.
  8. Basically. Metric vs Imperial kind of thing. Japanese kits always used metric, American kits always used Imperial. Kyosho used 0.8mod for their vintage racing buggies (Optima, Javelin, Ultima, etc.) until the Triumph (2WD) and Lazer ZXR (4WD) when they switched to 48p for the better spur and pinion selection for the racing circuit I guess. Actually, I think the original Scorpion used mod 1 gears - the teeth were quite large compared to what we normally see these days. Tamiya used 0.8mod in lots of vintage kits and still uses 0.8mod for many of their re-releases, though there is a smattering of 0.6mod as @Silver-Can said, and maybe even 48p is used for the high-end racing buggies (not sure). I use Robinson Racing 0.6mod 23T (which are sometimes confusingly named "metric 48p") pinions in my Madcaps. They work great. Seriously though - "metric 48p"? You can't make this stuff up. It's just 0.6mod! Some people use a piece of paper between the pinion and spur when tightening the motor down. Personally, I've never had good luck doing that. What thickness paper? There are many choices. I do it by eye and feel and sound. I push the pinion to the spur until I can see and feel only a little bit of backlash between them. The spur can visibly rock back and forth a tiny amount without moving the pinion. I check the backlash at various rotational positions of the spur just in case it is out-of-round; the pinion might touch the spur on one side and have some space between on the other - I adjust so the tightest mesh point has a tiny amount of play to prevent binding. I like to try to minimize the backlash, but if the pinion gets too close to the spur the gear noise can get annoyingly loud with a high-pitch squeal type noise at various speeds when driving. If that happens, I move the pinion away ever so slightly and try again. It's one of those things that you will get better at with experience, but even with experience, you'll find some pinion/spur combinations that make excessive noise. It could be due to previous wear patterns on the pinion or spur if they are used. If the mesh backlash setting wasn't great before, the gears may have worn down at that backlash setting. Then you come along and set the backlash differently (perhaps "better"), but now the teeth are hitting each other differently, causing new noises due to the new wear pattern. It may get better over time as things wear in. How it sounds is perhaps a subjective thing as one person might call the gear noise "loud" while another might call the same noise "quiet". The noise may not have anything to do with your backlash setting, either. A great example of this for me is the Grasshopper. The stock RS380 motor pinion to spur backlash isn't adjustable at all because the motor mount is fixed via through-hole mounts, but mine makes quite a bit of noise, at least in my opinion. It is probably making the correct amount of noise, but I like quiet gearboxes, so I find it a tad on the loud side. It could be due to the pinion having so few teeth that the pitch angle of the teeth just can't mesh well with the spur. So at its simplest, I try to minimize backlash to get maximum tooth engagement, but I also try to minimize the noise. I always grease the gears, too. I use Tamiya Ceramic Grease for metal pinion to plastic spur or plastic to plastic gears and Tamiya Molybdenum Grease for metal-to-metal gears such as gear diffs.
  9. @Lee76 I'm really talking about the pinion to spur. The center distance is variable because the motor can be moved closer or further away from the spur in most cases to accommodate different pinion tooth counts. Keep in mind that gear pitch or mod has nothing to do with the number of teeth, but rather the size of the teeth. The number of teeth, combined with the size of the teeth determines the diameter of the gear. Here is a thread on RCCrawler forums that has a nice picture a few posts down. You can see the difference between a 16T 32p and 16T 48p pinion. Same number of teeth, different tooth size and diameter of pinion. @Finnsllc With "mod" sizes the smaller the mod number the smaller the teeth. 0.8mod is approximately 32p. 0.6mod is approximately 42.33p and 0.4mod is approximately 63.5p. @E28_M5 You are correct. The Bigwig uses 0.8mod pinions. Tony's Tamiya Parts even lists the Hotshot in the eBay description for some of the 0.8mod pinions he sells. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carson-500013406-16T-Steel-Pinion-Gear-0-8-08-Module-Tamiya-Hot-Shot-NIP/293644659838
  10. I need to vent for a moment. I've spent way too much time lately looking for 0.8mod pinions for use in Tamiya and Kyosho vintage cars. Seems most manufacturers group 0.8mod with 32p calling them "the same". They are close. Very close in fact, but THEY ARE NOT EXACTLY THE SAME. And when you are talking about mechanical tolerances measured in 0.1mm variances, it makes a difference. You can have PERFECT gear mesh between the pinion and spur, but if they are not the exact same gear pitch, you will have extra noise and extra wear compared to when both gears are the exact same pitch. 32p = 0.7938mod 0.8mod = 31.75p Practically speaking, DOES THIS MATTER? For the most part, no it doesn't. You can use 32p pinions with 0.8mod spurs and not have any trouble. Many, many people will attest to this, including racers that really push their cars. I'm sure there will be replies this post confirming that using 32p with 0.8mod spurs is perfectly fine. But, if you categorize yourself as a perfectionist, anal, or autistic, it will bother you that you are mixing 32p with 0.8mod. It bothers me. I won't say which category I fall into. I wish manufacturers were honest and factual when representing their products. If the pinion is machined as 32p, say so. It if is machined as 0.8mod, say so. Do not say 32p/0.8mod. It is false advertising. The math proves this. It cannot be both at the same time. The machining setup required to grind the gear teeth is different between 32p and 0.8mod. It is one, or the other. From my research it looks like the choices for true 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" shaft motors are few and far between: You can buy the butter-soft Tamiya aluminum stock pinions. Too many to list, but they are cheap at least. But you risk stripping out the spur once the pinion has worn down enough. If you keep track of wear, you can avoid spur damage in most cases. These do not last very long as most of us on this forum know. That's why switching to a steel pinion is one of the most common recommendations to make to someone that asks "I'm about to build ______. What hop-ups should I add to my car?" You can buy the Tamiya steel pinions: Tamiya 54628 Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod Tamiya 54629 Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod But as you can see, there are only 17T and 19T choices. You can buy Kyosho vintage pinions: W-5009 - Hard Pinion 9T 0.8mod W-5010 - Hard Pinion 10T 0.8mod W-5011 - Hard Pinion 11T 0.8mod OT-23 - Aluminum Pinion 12T 0.8mod OT-50 - Aluminum Pinion 13T 0.8mod OT-51 - Aluminum Pinion 14T 0.8mod OT-24 - Aluminum Pinion 15T 0.8mod OT-52 - Aluminum Pinion 16T 0.8mod OT-53 - Aluminum Pinion 17T 0.8mod UM-24 - Aluminum Pinion 19T 0.8mod Since these are vintage, they are usually a bit more expensive and harder to find. And the aluminum ones are butter-soft like Tamiya stock so you don't want them anyway. You can buy the Carson steel pinions: 500013400 - Steel Pinion 10T 0.8mod 500013401 - Steel Pinion 11T 0.8mod 500013403 - Steel Pinion 13T 0.8mod 500013439 - Steel Pinion 14T 0.8mod <--- Yes, part # is correct. 500013404 appears to be some Audi Quattro S1 1/10 scale body. 500013405 - Steel Pinion 15T 0.8mod 500013406 - Steel Pinion 16T 0.8mod 500013407 - Steel Pinion 17T 0.8mod 500013408 - Steel Pinion 18T 0.8mod 500013409 - Steel Pinion 19T 0.8mod For 5mm motor shafts, Robinson Racing makes some high carbon steel 0.8mod pinions. Their website is broken, so you can't see the part numbers for them and I don't care enough to look it up somewhere else because I don't use 5mm motor shafts. So far I have not been successful in finding any Chinese manufacturers of 0.8mod pinions for 1/8" motor shafts. I've just placed a ridiculous order ($$$) with Tony's Tamiya Parts for Carson 0.8mod pinions because there is literally no other choice, which is rather frustrating. I live in the USA, so Carson is generally not available here except through sellers like Tony's. Thanks for listening to my rant. I feel a little bit better.
  11. The reason for the high price: Tamiya had so many left over Vajra's that they decided to make the Vanquish based on that chassis.
  12. ESCs use PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) to send power to the motor using a fixed drive frequency. Basically, think of it as short pulses of current sent the motor at 1000 times per second or 1500 times per second for the normal to low end ESCs and upwards of 2.5K to 100K pulses per second for very high end racing and industrial ESCs (for robots, etc.). Really old first-generation type ESCs like the Novak T4 and Futaba MC 210CB only switched at 60 Hz, so you would hear a low frequency buzzing coming from the motor. The length of time each pulse stays high determines how much total average power is sent to the motor. Pull the trigger only 10% back on your transmitter and the pulses of power being sent to the motor by the ESC will be high only 10% (approx.) of the total pulse length (so if drive frequency is 1000 Hz, then each pulse is 1 ms long (there are 1000 pulses per second), and so 10% of that is 0.1ms high and 0.9ms low). So the motor only "sees" 10% power over time and you get slow speed from it. Pull the trigger to 90% throttle and the pulses become a 90% high (0.9ms high and 0.1ms low) and the motor sees 90% power over time and you get 90% of maximum power. From listening to various fixed-tone videos on Youtube, I guess the Tamiya TBLE-02S is using a drive frequency of 1000 Hz and this is well within the human hearing range. This seems low to me as I thought Tamiya used 1500 Hz for their ESCs, but I guess not. Anyway, a motor is basically a coil of wire with magnets just like a speaker, so you can hear it as a fixed tone coming from the motor. This is completely normal and expected. In fact, if a Tamiya ESC detects no receiver signal, it will send a high-low frequency signal to the motor with very short high pulse widths so that the motor sings "high low high low high low" type of beeping noise (but doesn't spin the motor shaft) to alert you that the receiver isn't getting a signal from the transmitter. Very handy if you turned off your transmitter but left the car turned on. Only the REALLY high-end ESCs that switch beyond 32kHz cannot be heard because the switching frequency it is beyond human hearing, though you may hear some sub-harmonics instead (16kHz, 8kHz, etc.) depending on the situation. The green LED lighting up is also normal for Tamiya ESCs. If I recall the TBLE-02S correctly, it behaves the same as the TEU-105BK in that the green LED only lights up at 1% to 99% power and turns off at neutral (0% power) and full forward and full reverse. If the LED doesn't do this on yours, you need to reprogram the ESC per the instructions to set the limits properly.
  13. Well, since nobody else has replied I'll throw my 2c in... That alloy steering assembly may be a hop up part from one of many companies that made them back in the day. I don't know what brand yours is. I would say that it is NOT an A&L Mfg steering kit, however. Reason being: I have an alloy A&L kit in my Lazer ZX and it is smooth and shiny (red/pink anodized) and it also came with alloy posts whereas yours is using the stock black plastic spacers plus a bronze bushing on top as a spacer. Also, yours seems to have a rough finish, not smooth and shiny anodized. Maybe it is homemade? It still looks cool and certainly functional. Switching out the stock 0.6m spur for 48p was a common thing racers did back in the day in order to have a better selection of pinion gears.
  14. Well, the Sand Scorcher has a hard shell so you would use Tamiya TS series of paints on that. It's TS-10 French Blue for box art color. The Tamiya PS series of paints are for clear polycarbonate bodies only. For the driveshafts and steering links what I do is use an old toothbrush reserved specially for this purpose (you will never use this toothbrush for anything else again). When I take apart the front and rear differentials and gearboxes of other cars, usually there is lots of old and nasty grease in them. Sometimes there is a little but of dirt, too, perhaps mixed with a small amount of fine metal from the gears. It doesn't matter. I use the toothbrush to wipe up the grease and get it all in the bristles so they are all coated with it. Then I take a driveshaft or steering link/turnbuckle (remove the ball ends first) and hold it tightly in my left hand with one end sticking out and with my right hand holding the toothbrush I firmly swipe the toothbrush bristles against the driveshaft or threaded rod in quick rapid strokes. I rotate the rod a little bit each swipe in order to get the bristles to hit all around the rod and ensure the bristles and grease hit all surfaces. Doing this rubs or scrapes off most of the rust and also transfers some grease to the rod. The bristles can actually do a pretty good job of cleaning the tan dirt and orange rust out of the threads in the rods, too. This process changes the rod from a non-uniform dirty looking orange rusty color into a (my opinion) nicer looking uniform dark grey color. And the best part is it puts a light coating of grease on the rod which will help prevent it from rusting in the future. I looked to see if I had a picture showing before and after shots of a driveshaft or suspension rod, but I could not find one.
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