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Champ85

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About Champ85

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    NH, USA

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  1. The shocks on the left (mounted to car) are Kyosho Platinum part # W5003 from the 1980's. They came stock on the Turbo Ultima, Turbo Optima Mid SE and Turbo Rocky.
  2. Part UM-1 is getting hard to find these days and expensive when they come up. The 3D printed option is becoming a last resort if you want to get a car running again. As for how tough they would be, it depends on what plastic they are made of and how they were created. Anything created on a home 3D printer wouldn't be worth the plastic it is made from, IMO. The resolution is just not high enough. But if it is the Shapeways Nylon 12 Versatile Plastic printed using the SLS (selective laser sintering) or the other Nylon 12 (MJF Plastic PA12) , then it will be pretty strong and wear resistant and worth a shot. A few years ago I made a gear for the Kyosho Rocky using the SLS Versatile Plastic and it's been working fine, though I don't do much offroad with the car to stress the gear much (like jumps, etc.). But it's a good hard plastic that is very tough as you would expect for Nylon. The hardest part to design a gear for 3D printing is the actual shape of the gear teeth. Unless the designer has experience making gears for 3D printing and knows how to compensate for the shrinkage and other things that are involved in the specific type of plastic being used, the gear could be a poor fit resulting in a bad mesh to the other gears, risking damage to them. It took me about 5 tries to get the proper tooth shape/size and gear diameter as correct as I could get it to match the original gear when I was doing it, but I'm a total amateur. I mean, we are talking about making 0.3mm to 0.1mm modifications to tooth width and gear diameter here - really intricate stuff that could even be within the margin of error of the printing process itself. But it is important to get it right for maximum gear life of both the 3D printed part and the gears it meshes with. It would suck to buy a 3D printed gear that ends up destroying the gear next to it because the tooth shape is wrong. I have no idea if "Vintage Gears" (seller on eBay) has made sure the gears are the correct profile or mesh properly. Still, I would buy one to see how it fits if I were you.
  3. I am currently building a Kyosho Scorpion re-re kit. I got the LED lights for it plus the light buckets and rollcage that goes with them. While fitting the LEDs into the light buckets and trying to snap the clear plastic front lens cover on, it was being fiddly and the LED was getting off-kilter every time. The LED was being pushed down and ended up pointing sideways instead of straight ahead. Each time I tried to fix it I was getting more and more frustrated trying to punch out the front lens (which isn't supposed to come out once snapped into place) to correct the problem because it took a lot of force and I was slightly damaging the plastic and reflector in the process. The instruction sheets that were provided with the LEDs, buckets and rollcage were the exact same single-sided sheet of paper with absolutely no diagram showing how the LEDs mount inside the buckets. Apparently it's so simple that Kyosho did not feel the need to bother to document how to do it. I felt so dumb that I could not accomplish such a simple task and started making the comment "well I won't be ever buying another set of these as they are complete garbage," while also noting that everything about the Kyosho re-releases has been absolutely top notch quality and so much fun to build and it is so odd to be experiencing such a horrible time doing something that should be so easy... Then I noticed that the LEDs are supposed to slide into a groove at the back of the light bucket rather than on top of it. More often than not the negativity that I feel is due to my own actions, inactions, or thoughts rather than anything external. It helps to keep that perspective sometimes.
  4. It could be that the ESC's BEC circuitry died and no power is being sent to the receiver. The ESC spec sheet says the BEC circuit can supply 6V at 2A. Was the steering servo plugged into the receiver when things went dead? Could the steering servo have been binding too far left or right, causing excessive current draw? If you have a multimeter and are comfortable using it, try checking to see if the ESC is putting out any voltage on the wires going to the receiver.
  5. I saw that sale and considered cancelling my preorder because the sale price + coupon would have saved another $15 or $20, but decided not to cancel for fear of losing my place in the pre-order waiting line.
  6. Interestingly I just got an email from AMain saying that the Cougar Classic just shipped today. I ordered it on June 11 at 9:52am Eastern time.
  7. Box art screen grab from the end of the Tamiya video:
  8. Yeah the ProCat will be here on Saturday according to UPS. Maybe there was a manufacturing delay with the Cougar Classic's 2nd run of kits? Just guessing. I am glad it isn't discontinued and don't mind waiting since I have no plans to build anytime soon.
  9. I ordered the Cougar Classic from AMain back in June and it is still backordered. Anyone else still have it on backorder?
  10. Depends on where you live, I guess. I'm still waiting for the Cougar Classic here in the US that I ordered in June.
  11. Don't see why you can't mount NiMH stick across chassis and use straps through battery slots to hold it down.
  12. My method: Step 1: Use screwdriver to get huge pieces of goo/grease and wipe on paper towel. Step 2: Use paper towel to get more of the remaining grease out to minimize the amount of stuff for Step 3 to deal with. Step 3: Use CRC QD Electronic Cleaner to remove remaining oil/grease/dirt. It is plastic safe. Best price is US $5 per 11 oz. can. Amazon sometimes sells it for that price, but not always. Spray on plastic and metal parts, inside gearcase, on gears, etc. Use an old plastic tub/food container to collect the drippings/runoff and use an old toothbrush to help remove stubborn grime. Keep dipping toothbrush into pool of cleaner at bottom of container and clean parts. Spray again as needed until almost all grime is gone. IMPORTANT: WEAR GLOVES! Preferably black nitrile gloves instead of rubber/latex because the latter deteriorates quickly. If you don't wear gloves, your skin will peel badly in a few days. It's not good to get it on your skin. Step 4: Use dishwashing soap (I use lemon Joy) to clean parts in warm water along with a (different from above) old used toothbrush to perform a final clean.
  13. Love the use of Kyosho titanium turnbuckle links, Willy. They remind me of the Tecnacraft ones from the 80's. Very clean look.
  14. Kyosho America replied to my query about the servo saver. Unfortunately they do not have any information about it.
  15. Kyosho definitely reuses parts for multiple cars like Tamiya, but I'm not sure about servo savers, specifically. I looked on kyoshoamerica.com at all of the servo savers, but nothing looks like that arm. That's why I think it's a prototype, or perhaps not even made by Kyosho, although I'd be surprised if that were the case. I sent a message to Kyosho support at kyoshoamerica.com asking about the servo saver, but I do not expect them to know anything. I suspect only Kyosho Japan would know, but they specifically state that they don't have any English speaking people that can answer questions, so I didn't bother trying to contact them. Maybe someone who knows Japanese can open a support request with Kyosho Japan.
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