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About Champ85

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    NH, USA

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  1. Forget damper oil. This is the real kick in the pants: This means you cannot ship any vintage Tamiya kits whatsoever. Unless you think they are not collectible or rare. AND there is this little gem: Sure, they put it on the same line as explosives and other dangerous articles, but that could just be a formatting error and it should have been on its own bullet. So, no, you cannot ship that disgustingly dirty Tamiya chassis to someone else. Clean that thing up mister!
  2. If the kit is missing a part, for instance. If you didn't buy it "in-country" with proof via invoice from authorized reseller, the in-country distributor may not honor sending replacements since it is deemed "grey market". But these days, at least with Tamiya and the USA (in my case), it's easier to buy replacements from eBay or Asian resellers anyway, so grey market doesn't concern me and I don't care about warranty.
  3. First of all, welcome to TamiyaClub! Now, your questions: Yes it does. Some plastics get more brittle with age while others not as much. But there are definitely some plastics used in Tamiya kits that become easier to break as they get old. Yeah, Novak decided to close shop a couple of years ago. I think the influx of cheaper non-US manufacturers was taking its toll and Bob was ready to retire. I'm sure others will have suggestions for ESCs. I generally use a Tamiya TEU-105BK or Tamiya TBLE-02S with brushed motors. I've heard that the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 is a good choice also. 58072 is the original Avante. 58489 is the re-released version from 2011. 47390 is the Black version of the 2011 model. Yeah, this is certainly odd. I just looked at Tower Hobbies, and sure enough the Black edition is a lot less than the regular version. It might have to do with the new MAP pricing that Tamiya is now enforcing, but not really sure. No, they generally are not knock-offs, especially if you are looking at the usual Asian sites like RCMart, Stellamodels or Banzaihobby. Within the past year, Tamiya has decide to implement MAP pricing in the US/North America and maybe some other countries. MAP stands for "Minimum Advertised Price", and it is tactic used by manufacturers to ensure that the prices customers see stay above a certain level. Any distributor or retailer that does not adhere to MAP pricing is subject to restricted access to stock or possibly terminated from carrying Tamiya entirely. To me, it's some mumbo-jumbo garbage about "creating value in the eyes of the consumer" and is supposedly a marketing tactic to keep or add value to the brand that would otherwise supposedly look "cheap" with non-MAP pricing. IMO, it's just a way for Tamiya to ensure their kits are not sold too cheaply. When you buy from overseas, they call it "grey market" and you do not get warranty service. It is not illegal to buy a kit from overseas, but they sure wish it was. Sometimes the price difference is too great to ignore, even after adding shipping costs. In my experience with NiCd and NiMH packs, the 2000 to 3000 NiMh packs are about the same size as the original 1200 - 1900 NiCd packs. At least close enough to fit in most cases that I've seen. The 5000 NiMH packs, however, are a bit thicker and longer which could make them hard or impossible to fit into certain restrictive battery holders of some models. I'd recommend going to the "All Things Electric..." forum here and poking around. This question has been asked before for sure. You will find answers to your "which ESC" as well, I think. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/forum/34-all-things-electric/
  4. I think I read a while ago that he had Crohn's Disease. Not sure of anything else.
  5. I own the non-pro version of this now, but never had the original vintage. I was intrigued by the chassis design with the solid axle gearbox and motor assembly. Reminded me of a Tamiya Hornet. On tarmac it tilts enough when turning to allow one rear tire to spin like crazy. Extremely plush suspension. If Kyosho sells the option parts separately, I'd probably buy them.
  6. Go for the Turbo Optima. Kyosho needs us to show them that we want them to continue with the vintage re-releases. (plus I want Kyosho to stay in business)
  7. Pre-order now available on Tower. https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLHPD&P=ML
  8. Manual: http://www.retromodelisme.com/manuel_page/24/lazer-zx-kyosho.html It's not a convenient PDF, but seems complete.
  9. I use Plazmost stands for some, Tamiya paint can tops for others. I've also used old wheels/tires stacked up and even old NiCd battery packs. Blocks of wood cut to size would be cheap as well. You can even paint the wood to jazz it up.
  10. Hi mrbroons and welcome to TamiyaClub! I bought the reproduction body on eBay from Team Bluegroove. Jonathan's bodies are nice to work with, though the finer details are less pronounced than the original in most cases. I'm not a purist, so I don't care to spend $$$ for an original body. I bought the reproduction decals from marwanrc.com. Marwan is a great guy who also frequents this forum and answers questions from time to time. I've found that dipping decals in soapy water (a few drops of dishwashing/fairy liquid in a bowl of warm water) before application to the body allows you to position it perfectly before it sticks or peel it off again, dip again and retry the application until it's perfect and then press/squeegee out the water to make it stick. Use a hairdryer on warm/hot on curved decals that don't want to stick well. Use a wet toothpick + hair dryer to press decals into tight corners/crevices.
  11. If the Kyosho 240S 19.5T numbers are to be trusted, but the 15.5T ones are not, then how about this: 19.5T: Max Power=280W Efficiency=89% KV=2580 If we take 280W and multiply it by the efficiency, we get 280 x 0.89 = 249.2 W actual working power. (the rest is heat) 2580 KV divided by 249.2 W = 10.35 KV / Watt If we can trust the 15.5T ratings for Max Power and Efficiency, but distrust the KV rating and Max RPM, then: 15.5T: Max Power=320W Efficiency=90% KV=? If we take 320W and multiply it by the efficiency, we get 320 x 0.90 = 288 W actual working power. (the rest is heat) If we assume that the 15.5T motor has the same KV per Watts value as the 19.5T, then: 288 W multiplied by 10.35 KV / W = 2981 KV which yields 22059 RPM at 7.4V Is that more in line with expectations for a 15.5T brushless sensored motor? Note: I'm making a huge assumption that the 15.5T has the same KV/W value as the 19.5T which may not actually be true. But considering both motors are made by the same company with similar efficiencies, it shouldn't be too far off from reality. Unless....the numbers are actually correct, but the 15.5T has way different timing for increased torque compared to the 19.5T. Beats me, I've never used them.
  12. Not that I actually know for sure, but they will most assuredly be one-piece rims. Three-piece is too expensive/complicated these days (screws to hold rims together in 2019?). It will be the same as Optima and Javelin re-re rims.
  13. Awesome! Surprised given the dire financial situation at Kyosho, but extremely pleased. I really hope it sells well. I'll be buying my usual two kits.
  14. Huh, I had no idea Brat tires fit Optima wheels. I feel dumb.
  15. U7599 Alloy Front Shock Rocker Conversion - TOP CAT is listed as an option in the manual, but the Schumacher website does not list it and a search comes up empty. Anyone know what the status of it is?
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