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About Champ85

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  1. Champ85


    Oh, I forgot about the radio. I would get a more modern radio (2.4GHz) and electronic speed control (ESC) rather than use the vintage radio and MSC. I don't see a speed control on yours, so maybe you removed it to install on another vehicle. Modern radio systems are less glitchy so less likely to lose control of the car and they can be fairly cheap. You should be able to re-use the steering servo, however.
  2. Champ85


    This right here is the reason to do #1 - restore it to its former glory. You will be happy and smiling again. OK, so what I would do is find the manual for it. Hopefully you still have it. Then get your tools and tear it down, screw by screw. Put everything into a parts tray. Open the shocks and be prepared to use a paper towel or two to capture the old nasty oil and throw it away. For the plastic parts, go to the sink and use a small bucket or half-gallon plastic ice cream container (what I use) and fill it with warm water and some dish washing soap (fairy liquid). Dump all of the plastic parts into the container to soak. Make sure you use a sink drain strainer/stopper or otherwise keep the small parts from going down the drain if you accidentally drop it into the sink while cleaning. Nothing worse that having a critical part go down the drain. Get an old toothbrush and take each part and scrub it to remove the old oil/dirt. You will have to constantly put a drop of fairy liquid on the toothbrush bristles in order to absorb the grease/oil or else the bristles will get coated in grease/oil and just smear a mess all over the parts instead of actually cleaning anything. Yes, its a pain in the butt to do this and very time consuming, but it does work and the results are worth it in my opinion to get the best looking parts possible. As I clean each part, I put it into another tray or container. Once all parts are cleaned, I rinse everything in clean water one final time to remove any soap residue. Then I put all of the parts on a towel to air dry. For turnbuckles, I generally leave the rod ends on the threaded rod just because they are a pain to twist off and you'll just be putting them back on again anyway. Just reference the manual to ensure they are all the correct length. For the metal parts, I use a spray can of motor cleaner which is like brake cleaner to remove the dirt/grease and oil. You can use other stuff like Simple Green too I guess. I wouldn't use water and soap unless you don't have anything else and can dry the parts off quickly. They will rust again otherwise. The shocks. After dumping out the oil, take them apart. Removing the e-clip on the bottom of the shock is a pain, but worth doing. Take out the o-rings and plastic spacer. Give everything a thorough cleaning. I usually replace the o-rings with new ones to help prevent leakage. If the shock shafts look good, you can re-use them. Just try to be careful and not use pliers to grab the shock shafts and damage them. You will need a bottle of silicone shock oil to replace the oil you dumped, so add that to the list of parts you need. The gears. They can be plastic gears and metal gears. They are some of the hardest parts to clean because of the grease. Don't clean these in the above steps. Instead, keep reading. The belt. Do not try to clean the belt. If it looks good, just leave it alone. Don't wash it or spray it with anything. As long as it isn't broken or split or frayed and the teeth look good, it's fine. Just leave it alone. For the motor, receiver, servo(s) and speed control, just clean them as best you can. I use motor cleaner on the motor, spraying into the side openings and hitting the brushes/commutator. If the motor is rebuildable, I take it apart and clean it, inspecting the rotor, brushes and bearings in the process. I replace anything really worn. The ball bearings. You can try to use motor/brake cleaner on them. Sometimes they can be cleaned, but often they just get gritty and sound/feel nasty. They are cheap enough these days that buying replacements is usually the best option. The common sizes are 5x10x4mm and 8x14x4mm for Kyosho I believe, but measure/double check yours. You can find them on eBay. Another thing that I do is I have a few old toothbrushes in my stash that I use for various specialize purposes. I keep a couple of them to use to remove old grease from the gears. The grease gets into the brush and coats all of the bristles, making the brush look gross and dirty and greasy/oily, but this is perfect. I use the brush on metal parts after cleaning in order to coat the parts in the old oil/grease and remove the rust. This works really well on the threaded rods like turnbuckles and driveshafts and axles. Your steering rods and suspension rods look a bit rusted and could use this type of treatment. I hold the rod/part firmly with my left hand and rather briskly stroke/brush the greasy toothbrush bristles across the rod and threads with my right hand, making sure to hit all parts of the rod. I use short hard swift strokes to do this. I am not gentle. I have to grip the part in my left hand very tightly or else the part will go flying. As you do this you will see the orange colored rust disappear and get replaced with a darker black/gunmetal color looking coating/sheen on the part. This is the grease and oil coating the metal which protects the metal and makes the part look nicer (in my opinion) and more uniform in color and appearance. Throughout all of this cleaning process, make sure to look at each part and check for anything broken or bent. If you can bend it back to fix it, do that. If the part is beyond repair, look the part up in the manual to see which parts bag contains it and then go on eBay and search for the parts bag or part itself. Lots of vintage parts are still available on eBay. Depending on what the part is, it might be cheap or very expensive or not easily found. On the plastic parts, check for any remaining sprue tree molding burrs and remove them with a hobby knife. When I am restoring someone else's vintage car that I got off eBay, I often find that they did not do a good, clean job of removing the burrs from the plastic parts. The body and decals. You can get a replacement lexan body/wing and decals on eBay or from MarwanRC. Paint. I only use Tamiya paint for my cars. For lexan, it's the Tamiya PS series of paints you want. Lots of colors. You can use other brands as you like. Just make sure the paint is designed for lexan. Tires. You can get vintage originals for a lot of money on eBay, or get repros from MarwanRC. Or get the re-release tires from Kyosho. Once I get all of the replacement parts I need, I use the manual to rebuild the car just like building the kit for the first time.
  3. Champ85


    Your options are simple: Tear it down, clean every part, and rebuild it back up into a nice looking runner or shelfer. Sell it as-is on a forum like here and/or on eBay or FB marketplace or whatever. Throw it in the garbage. (don't do that) Toss it back up into the loft. (don't do that either) Not sure what else you want us to say. What do YOU want to do with it? Did you buy it with the intention of restoring it? Did you find it in the loft and wondering what can be done with it? Do you want to spend the time and money to restore it? If you want to know if you can just slap a modern brushless motor+ESC and LiPo battery and go on a tear with it, the answer is no. It was never intended for brushless power. Get a re-relrease kit if you want to do that. I know what *I* would do with it: I would tear it down and clean every piece, look for broken and worn out parts and replace them, then build it up using the original manual. I would buy repro decals and body/wing set from eBay and cut/trim and paint it into something reasonable. I would use a vintage Kyosho LeMans brushed motor and modern brushed ESC and modern radio system plus a NiMH or LiPo battery.
  4. Nice restoration! I remember looking at the Tower Hobbies catalog as a kid and always wishing I could get the Icarus. I thought it looked very cool. I still do. One day I will get one to restore.
  5. Just from the subject I was going to suggest try wearing looser pants.
  6. Agreed. I found the Hot Shot to be an enjoyable and more involved build compared to most Tamiya kits. As such, the Super Hot Shot would be the same level of build. As previously mentioned, the re-re Bruiser and Mountain Rider are also good challenges and take a long time to build (don't forget to thread lock every screw going into metal). The new generation 3speeds (Ford F350 Highlift, Toyota Tundra Highlift, Toyota HiLux Highlift) are also quite complicated and time-consuming to build, especially if you add the optional lighting kit parts. An alternative choice would be to purchase a vintage wreck off eBay or other web platform and painstakingly disassemble it part by part, clean the parts, source suitable replacements and build it up again. That can get rather complicated and time-consuming depending on what was purchased but the end result can be very rewarding. I find myself doing this with vintage Kyosho cars.
  7. IMO, keep it in the box. It's OK, but the plastic insulator part between the contact plates can weaken and break over time allowing one of the two rotating contact pins to get wedged/jammed between the contact plates and short the battery. Servo cannot move it when that happens and poof! In my case it turned the entire negative battery wire completely black internally and had to be replaced. Battery pack still worked afterward though. This was back in 1984-85 before ESCs were more common and affordable. I made my own ESC from magazine plans after that.
  8. Here is a picture showing an original Turbo Ultima front bulkhead where the front shock tower mounts to and the re-release Ultima front shock tower above it. You can see the lip on the bulkhead and the non-flat bottom tower, marked in picture. This is why using a re-release front shock tower on a vintage chassis won't fit without some work.
  9. Are the shock towers on the re-release Ultima the same basic size/shape and hole pattern as the original? I want to know if a set of carbon fiber shock towers for the original Ultima will fit the re-release. Edit: In my stash I found a set of brand new Turbo Ultima front and rear bulkheads that the shock towers mount to and the mounting holes of the re-re Ultima shock towers line up perfectly. This means shock towers designed for the vintage Ultima should fit the re-re fine. The opposite is not true, however. The re-re front shock tower is not flat at the bottom and a lip in the vintage front bulkhead mount would prevent the re-re tower from being used on a vintage chassis without adding some washers for spacing or shaving off the re-re tower to make it flat to avoid the lip on the mount. Front shock tower mounting holes line up with vintage Turbo Ultima front bulkhead mount (It looks like the holes are not aligned, but they are - camera perspective is fooling you): Rear shock tower mounting holes line up with vintage Turbo Ultima rear bulkhead mount (It looks like it is not aligned but it is camera perspective - all 4 mounting holes line up): Oddly, the top of the front shock tower on the re-release Ultima is wider than the Turbo Ultima shock tower by a few millimeters. I do not know if the original Ultima shock tower is the same as the Turbo Ultima - I assume it is.
  10. Wow, that's.... just plain stupid. They should be the exact same plexi parts! I got my stands from Plazmost (on eBay) who lives in France years ago and they work create. Never bought the kc_store ones. Clarification: I didn't click the OP's eBay links and assumed both stands were from kc_store 'cause I thought he had both a 'deluxe' and 'econ' version for sale, so I figured they'd be the same plexi. Turns out OP's deluxe link was Plazmost's and econ was kc_store. Nice to know they are different and that kc_store's don't work.
  11. My Futaba 7XC from Japan arrived without Customs interference. So happy.
  12. I haven't experienced that yet. But I've only ordered 2 of the gears so not much to go on. I suppose depending on which physical 3D printer printed your parts, they could come out differently.
  13. If you decide to print the STL file on shapeways, I would recommend buying only 1 gear at first to see if it actually fits and is really the right size. Depending on the person that created the STL file and their level of experience in designing and printing gears for printing by Shapeways, the exact dimensions of the gear when printed may or may not work perfectly. Since the STL file you found may not have been created for Shapeways specifically, the gear may be slightly too small with thin teeth. My personal experience: I designed some gears using software that correctly generated the tooth profile for 32P gears and had them printed by Shapeways. The first one I printed was raw from some software that generated a proper 2D gear profile mesh which was imported into Blender and made into the proper 3D gear shape by me. It looked perfect in CAD with the proper tooth size and profile and the gear dimensions were perfect (within 0.1mm anyway which is the limit of resolution on Shapeways plastic prints). But when I received the gear from Shapeways, the overall size of the gear was slightly smaller than it needed to be and the teeth themselves were too thin. The printing process had shrunk the teeth. It's just the nature of 3D printing. The gear "fit" into the gearbox, but the mesh was too light due to the smaller teeth and smaller overall diameter of the gear itself. So I started to modify the gear in Blender. I increased the tooth profile and made the teeth thicker and increased the diameter. I created 5 different sizes, increasing dimensions by 0.1mm or 0.2mm each time in order to see how Shapeways interpreted my changes. Then I printed all 5 designs. Sure enough, I found the right dimensions that resulted in a printed gear that very closely matched the original in both diameter and tooth size and shape. I still have the gear installed in one of my cars today just to see how it wears. But man, it was a chore and rather expensive, like $100 for all of the trial prints+shipping all said and done. I mostly did it just to see if it could be done and to see how strong the gear was. IMO, 3D printing gears is a viable solution for the non-racer. I haven't done any torture testing. Maybe there are much better ways to design gears for printing by Shapeways and I don't know about them. If so, I'd love to learn about them. Because the sizing trial method I used was not what I would call fun or cheap.
  14. You could try sending Marwan a request from his website/store as he makes a bunch of excellent quality repro tires: https://marwanrc.com/ Marwan is a member here but I don't think he frequents this site much and probably wouldn't see this thread. And who knows, he may not want to discuss the tire making process at all or get into costs. Dunno.
  15. Suspending an account because of a simple "double manufacturer in description" issue? No warnings first? This does not make sense. What were the two manufacturer names?
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