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About Champ85

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    NH, USA

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  1. Yeah, I also wish they did not fold the poster. I just ordered a simple black frame for it. Of course, it was only after I placed the order that I discovered that the poster is European size A2 (16.5" x 23.4") and the frame place I ordered from actually makes that exact size. I never thought to look at the European sizes when I was browsing. My custom frame is 16.625" x 23.375" so hopefully it will still work. The place I ordered from doesn't have a way to cancel the order. I could call them up next week to switch it but I think it will work as-is. The frame will cover 1/4" on all sides, so the extra 1/8" width on mine means slightly less of the sides will be covered which is fine by me.
  2. Got mine today from Kyosho America. The package (includes poster and t-shirt: The poster (front): The poster (back): Box top: Inside view: Parts box 1 (under the blisters): The manual: Parts box 2:
  3. @Juggular Do you know if this ESC has double-pump reverse or time-delay reverse? I use Tamiya TEU-101/104/105 and TBLE-02S ESCs usually and they all have double-pump reverse which I like much better than timed-reverse. Thanks.
  4. Thanks for finding it! Maybe I missed it yesterday because the listing has no picture and I just scrolled through too quickly. Doh. But I don't think it comes with a poster like the Kyosho America one so I'm still happy I ordered a kit there. Time to order a 2nd kit from Tower now.
  5. Yeah, I caved and bought 1 kit plus a shirt. No discount coupons like if I ordered from A Main Hobbies or Tower (if Tower will even stock them - still not showing up on their site). Got my FedEx email already, so it's being picked up tonight in California. Hopefully it doesn't burn on the way to me. I feel bad for the CA peeps dealing with the crazy fires.
  6. I just got an email from Kyosho America stating that the Ultima 2019 is in stock now. For those if you in the USA, get a free poster with each order. They also have Option House T-shirts. The below quote and pictures are from the email (copied WITHOUT permission. I kind of doubt they will mind.): Kyosho America Ultima 2019 Kyosho America Option House T-shirts Edited to add: They misspelled "Champion" in the top picture and used the wrong word "through-back" (should be throw-back). lol you can tell it's Friday I guess.
  7. Those two punched-in tabs on the top (between the rear ends of the arrows in pic above) and bottom of the end plate are fitted between the can magnets. That thing isn't rotating unless you flatten/remove those first.
  8. AM radios are too unreliable for me to use in anything. I use multiple Futaba 3UCP (FM) PCM stick radios for all of my models, new and old. No glitches but still has soul and good looks. Today's transmitters are so plasticly boring in comparison. The hardest thing to find these days is specific RX crystal models in the frequencies I need so 2.4 GHz will be inevitable. But I already have a 4GRS ready to go as well. I only wish Futaba imported the 7XC into the USA, but they did not bother to get FCC certification because stick radios are so unpopular here. I am tempted to buy one from overseas but fear customs would confiscate it due to lack of FCC certification (even though the 7PX has the exact same electronics in a pistol grip case instead of stick case).
  9. Nice paint job. Decals are easy: Dip them in soapy water (fairy liquid soap like the kind you have under the kitchen sink) before applying to body. A few (5-8) drops of liquid soap in a small bowl of cool or warm (not hot) water does nicely. Even very large/long decals can be easily applied this way. No worry about bubbles/creases/curves or slight alignment problems as you lay decal down compared to using regular (dry) methods. Steps If decals are pre-cut, skip this step. Use hobby (Xacto) knife, cut around decal edge as desired. Peel decal from backing sheet and dunk into soapy water bowl. Apply now-wet decal to body (sometimes it helps to use your wet fingers to pre-wet the body before laying the wet decal on it). Basically, the more water the better because it gives you more time to slide the decal around before it sticks. Trying not to press down, slide the decal around until desired position on body is found. If decal starts to stick before final position is found, pull off and re-dunk in bowl and try again. If decal sticks too quickly (does not allow much sliding before it sticks), you may need to add another drop of soap to the bowl of water. You can keep dunking over and over until you get the decal to lay exactly where you want it so do not be afraid to keep trying. I've probably dunked a single decal up to 8 times before finally getting the decal into the position I wanted. Once final position is achieved, press decal down slightly near the center to start getting it to stick. Using fingers, press/slide and slowly squeegee out the water under the decal by rub/pressing from center of decal outwards, making sure that decal does not slide away from desired position during this process. If it does slide off position, pull decal off, re-dunk and apply again. Sometimes I use a paper towel to soak up the water that is coming out from under the decal, especially when pushing water out from inside corners. Take your time getting the water and micro-bubbles out. It can take 5 full minutes of rubbing to get the water out from under the decal. If something goes wrong during this process, usually you can pull the decal off and try again, so don't be afraid to do that if needed. Inside corners should be pressed into place using fingers, a Q-tip, soft plastic stick or wet wood toothpick before pressing down either side to better follow body contours. You don't want to try to "stretch/press" the decal into the corner if both sides are already stuck because it almost always pulls away after a while. Decals don't like to stretch. The decal should be pressed into the corner first so it remains "relaxed", and then both sides can be stuck down after that. Outside corners and sharp edges: A hair dryer on medium can help decals stick better on outside (and inside) corners or compound bends and short or sharp edges. Note: The soapy water does not make the decal stick any less than it would have if it was applied dry. All of my cars built since I learned about this method have had their decals applied in this manner and no decals have lifted or become unstuck, even the models built over 10 years ago. I actually don't mind applying decals because of this method. Previously, I hated applying decals because they never stuck to the exact spot I wanted or were slightly misaligned. No more. Perfect every time. It just takes some patience and time.
  10. RCMart sells dampers that look similar to the Kyosho Golds: Xtra Speed Front Dampers Xtra Speed Rear Dampers I have a set but have not tried them yet so no idea if they are any good. They LOOK good in terms of build quality and design that is similar to the original Golds, even the bottom retaining ring/clip. To my eyes, the color might be too pinkish however, compared side to side with the originals. By themselves they look fine.
  11. I still use FM (Futaba PCM1024 actually), NiCd / NiMH batteries and brushed motors w/ESCs in all of my cars. Never a problem. Have not yet gone to Lipo, 2.4GHz or brushless. Maybe some day. Edit to add: I do not miss AM radios or MSCs. Both have caused broken parts that cost me money to repair.
  12. I think it's a typo. I just looked at the Tower Hobbies 1990 and 1991 catalogs and the most likely model is the S9601 Coreless Mini Ball Bearing.
  13. My solution is to buy spare parts for everything and run them all without fear. This pic shows one of two shelves I have like this.
  14. Do it! Definitely do it! I love the Raider. It's such a stupid cheap chassis, but it's fun and easy to build. I've built two of them just this year. One of them I used the FRP chassis you can buy from eBay just to see what it is like:
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