Jump to content

Champ85

Members
  • Content Count

    1195
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

478 Excellent

About Champ85

  • Rank
    Member

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://fun-with-rc.blogspot.com/

Profile Information

  • Location
    NH, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

5779 profile views
  1. Here is where I would put the silicone sealant (marked in blue). You could also put some between the tire and center wheel section (the part inside the tire) but it would be difficult to do and probably not necessary.
  2. I think I've had this happen once to me in 35 years of using Tamiya wheels and tires. It was under special conditions where the extremely fine dust at the location I was running was getting between the tire and wheels and acting like little ball bearings, allowing the tire to slide out from between the sandwiching wheel sections. Side question: What motor are you using in your Hornet, Chuck? What I would do: This whole exercise is to remove all of the fine dust from all parts to help ensure the tires do not pull out from the wheels again: Unscrew the 5 screws from each of the rear tires. Do not lose the 5 little nuts on the back side! They WILL fall out when you are not looking. Put the nuts aside for now. Remove the front and rear wheel sections (they just slide/pry off the center wheel section). Wash them in the sink using regular dishwashing soap and warm water to remove all fine dust. Dry them and set them aside. Wash the tires with center inner wheel making sure to clean the tire bead where it goes between the center and outer wheel sections. Do not remove the center wheel section from the tires (it's a real pain in the *** to do it and put it back anyway). Dry the tires and remove all water from inside the tire (use a paper towel or small rag (old sock) to soak up the water). Let everything air dry for 24 hours ensure there is no water inside the tire or use a hair dryer (low/med heat) or fan to dry up remaining water spots if you don't want to wait. Rebuilding the wheels onto the tires is the reverse of disassembly (look at the Hornet manual, too). Just need to align the screw holes on each wheel section with the middle wheel section inside the tire. As for glue, I guess silicone sealant would work (I've never done it). Dab it on your finger (or small piece of cloth) and smear a thin layer of it on the front and back wheel sections where they touch the tires at the bead, and/or smear it on the front and back tire bead where the wheel sections touch it. When you press the front and back wheel sections into place, after aligning the screw holes press the wheels all around the tire bead to ensure the tire is cleanly sandwiched between the inner and outer wheel sections uniformly. This can be fiddly. The point of this is to make it so that a) fine dust cannot get between the wheel and tire; and b) the tire is adhered to the wheel by the glue/sealant to prevent the tire from sliding out from between the wheel sections.
  3. I just tried to create an account just now but there is no country choice of USA in the country selector pulldown, so apparently they really don't want US customers right now. Canada either. Mexico is OK, though.
  4. I agree with @sosidge My good NiMH packs usually peak around 9V and charge to their full rated capacity. Give the packs a few cycles (charge-->discharge-->charge-->discharge-->...) and see if they improve. I'd recommend charging at 1.5A (sounds low, I know, but I've noticed my NiMH cells can start venting at higher charge rates even when they are cool - I hear a pssssss noise once in a while and it's very disconcerting) and discharging at 0.5A to 1.0A. I just cycled some old 5000mAH packs that were not charging well and they got up to 3500mAh capacity after 3 charge/discharge cycles which is better than nothing. Took over 24 hours to complete, though.
  5. Yay! You got them back! Best news I've heard in a while.
  6. I think '85 and '86 were the peak times. I got my Super Champ in '84, then my friends got the Grasshopper and Hornet in '85 and we raced them around. It was the time of most popularity with the kids. Keep in mind that this was the first time that "hobby grade" R/C cars were available at a reasonable price with spare parts and hop-ups on the ready (MRC really made sure hobby shops had spare parts for the kits). Prior to this time period, hobby grade R/C cars were more rare (smaller selection) and more expensive. Tamiya made hobby grade R/C cars popular for the masses with their 80's constant releases year on year. I think '85 started the peak and '86 continued it. But I think the peak did not last very long as I think by '87 Tamiya was less popular and was also the time when the "make almost all parts out of plastic instead of metal" seemingly took a foothold in their designs. I began to lose interest once the "plastic fantastic" time period hit, plus the increasing popularity of on-road racing (which I wasn't interested in) started to take off with the likes of the HPI RS4. Every issue of the RC car magazines was on-road this and on-road that and I just lost interest in anything new Tamiya released.
  7. Is it not possible to mount the front top shock to the front of the shock tower instead of the back?
  8. Usually the ESC has a switch. I don't see one on yours. I guess you need to unplug the battery to turn the car OFF? Searching around the net, I found another picture of the same ESC and there is no on/off switch. Odd! You can't really insert a switch yourself here. Even if you did put a switch in the ESC wire that goes to the receiver, the battery would still be powering the ESC BEC circuit and drain the battery. And you can't really put a switch in the battery wire - it's just too much DC current for 99% of the switches in the market to handle. Also, a suggestion: Bundle up the ESC and steering servo wires and use a zip-tie to hold them away from the driveshaft that powers the front wheels.
  9. That thing is really low-slung and looks mean. The lack of a wing makes it seem like "something is missing" at first glance. But nothing is missing. I'm too used to 2WDs with a wing. The white shocks work well with the paint scheme. Nice resto job. Really glad you didn't chuck it in the bin for good.
  10. I don't own one, so I don't know. I see there are black screws on the sides of the can near the rear endbell, so I assume you take those out to remove the rear endbell.
  11. Have you tried oiling the bearings on both ends? Can the motor be taken apart and cleaned? Maybe it's got dirt inside clogging things? Brushless motors don't have anything that wears out except the bearings, unless you overheat it (> 150 C). If you overheat the motor then the rotor magnet can get weakened and it's possible to melt/short the stator winding.
  12. These dampers/shocks have been discussed a few times before on this forum, but it was mostly in passing with members saying that they were good and performed well. But no other real specifics were detailed, including how they were designed, assembled or compared to the vintage Kyosho Gold shocks (W-5001 and W-5002), which these attempt to replicate. Today I was working on rebuilding a vintage Kyosho Optima and since I had a Turbo Optima body already painted and decaled thanks to a recent eBay purchase, I decided to use these Xtra Speed dampers instead of the vintage red (10mm diameter) stock dampers in order to make it more into a Turbo Optima. I figured I might as well take some pictures to show how these dampers are assembled and comment on how they are similar and different to the original Kyosho Golds. I do not have any side-by-side comparisons between these Xtra Speed dampers and the original Kyosho Gold shocks in these pictures today, but those of you familiar with the original Kyosho Golds will recognize many aspects of the design and appreciate the similarities and differences. First of all, what am I talking about? What are these Xtra Speed Dampers? Here is a picture of the front and rear damper sets as they are packaged and sold. They come in a white-backed plastic resealable bag with top card stapled on. The front kit is part #XS-OM27001 and the rear kit is part #XS-OM27002: I'm going to focus on the front shock set only in this post since they are what I have built so far. Opening up the front shocks and laying out the parts, we see the basic components. There are the front shock bodies and caps, which are threaded like the Kyosho Golds. The design, size and shape of these anodized aluminum parts are the same as the original Golds. I have not tested to see if these caps will fit on the Golds, but I suspect they might. The color, however is definitely NOT the same as the original Kyosho Golds. These Xtra Speed dampers are distinctly a pink-tinted gold color, not the deep gold of the originals. I think you can see the pink color in these shots. When sitting side-by-side with the original Golds, the difference is striking, but when alone the color is mild enough that you can get used to the pinkish color. I do not know why they are not the same color as the original Golds, but it could be in order to make it easier to distinquish the original Golds from these so people do not attempt to pass these off as original Kyosho Golds. If that was the reason for the color difference, I can totally understand and support it, even though I wish these were less pink. The springs are painted black (possibly powder coated) and are smooth and shiny. The shock shafts are 3mm diameter and have two grooves cut at one end to hold the e-clips that hold the piston. The other end is threaded. The bladders are very soft rubber and are spherically domed. I think the original Golds had flattened tops on their bladders. The o-rings and e-clips are standard fare. The circular spring clips (cir-clips) are the same as the original Golds. They hold the o-rings and spacers at the bottom of the shock body exactly like the original Golds. The plastic parts tree holds the top adjustable clamp-type spring holders (2), bottom spring holders (2), top shock mounts (2), bottom ball ends (2), internal shaft guides/spacers (2), external shaft guides (2), and pistons (6) with three choices: 2, 3 or 4 holes so you can choose how much damping you want. Assembling the shocks is basically the same as the original Kyosho Golds as you would expect since these are designed the same way. However, there are some differences that need to be pointed out. First, when removing parts from the plastic parts tree, you will need to spend some time trimming off the flashing/burrs from the pistons and internal spacers to ensure there is no binding problem with the assembled shock due to the parts not fitting properly. Be careful not to remove too much plastic as this could affect the damping power of the piston if too much plastic is removed. This is where Kyosho's original Gold pistons were a bit better due to the way that Kyosho molded the pistons on to the parts tree. Second, the pistons are not thick enough to take up all of the space between the e-clips on the shock shaft once assembled. The piston can slide up and down approximately 0.3mm when both e-clips are installed. This is unlike the original Kyosho Golds, where the piston was exactly the correct thickness and the top e-clip fit snugly when it was snapped on. To compensate for this I added a 3x5x0.3mm shim on the shock shaft before installing the piston. The shim removes all piston movement so it works as a single piece with no play and better damping once the shock is fully assembled. Once the pistons were installed on the shafts, I moved on to installing the internal shock seal components into the shock body. This assembly process is exactly the same as the original Kyosho Golds. First, the first o-ring is installed, then the wide shaft guide/spacer, then the second o-ring and finally the thin shaft guide. The cir-clip is snapped into the groove that is machined on the bottom of the shock body. While installing the bladders into the top caps, I came across some leftover metal shards from original manufacturing and machining of the threads. It's always a good idea to clean the metal shock bodies and caps to ensure there is no leftover material from the manufacturing process. After applying some silicone shock oil to the shaft threads, I pushed the shock shaft though the shock body and out the bottom seal. Then I used non-scratching pliers to hold the shock shaft in place while I screwed on the bottom ball end. I filled the shocks with oil, removing bubbles as per the normal methods and finished assembly. Here is another difference that only true Kyosho fanatics will notice: The top clamp-type spring holder installs the screw on the opposite side of the holder compared to the original Kyosho Golds. This is perhaps another difference purposely done by Xtra Speed in order to distinguish their design from the original. My personal opinions: These are exceptionally smooth shocks and feel exactly the same as the original Kyosho Golds. Absolutely no binding, and no bubbles (if you fill and bleed them properly). The bladder does its job. In my limited experience, these do not leak, same as the original Kyosho Golds. But I don't punish my cars nor do I race them so take this opinion with a grain of salt. Since the design is the same as the original Golds, whatever you thought of the Golds as problematic, these will have the same issues. I do not know if the spring rate of these is the same as the original Kyosho Golds (I have no way to measure). Of course you can swap springs if you want. If you loved the original Kyosho Golds (W-5001 and W-5002) and wished you could get your hands on some reproduction shocks that were 90% the same as the original, these are exactly what you are looking for. Just beware that these are more pinkish in color compared to the originals. This is by far the most striking difference that could make or break your decision on whether these are right for you or your vehicles. As a side question, if anyone knows of a way to alter anodizing color and can think of a way to add more gold or take away some pink, let me know. As far as I can tell this isn't possible to do. Basic specifications for the Xtra Speed Front dampers: Hole center-to-center lengths (+/- 1mm): 52mm compressed. 68mm uncompressed. Shaft diameter: 3mm. Piston diameter: 10mm. Outer case diameter: 12mm. Bottom ball end size: takes 5.8mm ball, like OT-33 or similar (ball not included in package).
  13. Looks like the front bumper is the wrong way around. The flat side should face outward. Looks like the front tires will hit it when turning hard.
  14. You mean to adjust the hall effect sensors? I guess that's possible. They are the only thing that could be adjusted mechanically, timing wise. If it did change between the S and T endbells, you'd think Kyosho would have put it in the specs but there is no mention. Edit: Actually, the Kyosho product page does state this: So it looks like it's just a color change, no timing differences.
×
×
  • Create New...