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mailboxck

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About mailboxck

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  • Birthday 10/08/1985

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    http://timeattackmanila.com/
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  1. Just sharing some tips. When I raced my F103GT before, I would swap between the long upper deck (the one that stretches all the way to the servo mount) and a short upper deck from an F103RS. If you need more grip, use the shorter upper deck. Also, if that's not enough, change the o-ring in the t-plate. The manual says to use a washer in the front hole and a black o ring in the back hole. You can swap those for a red o ring (softer) if you need more grip. And yes, changing to an oil filled center damper does help a lot. Lastly, forget the F103GT's 2 spacers under the motor mount. No need to use it.
  2. Looks good! You can use the F103GT touring car body mounts at the back to mount a body.
  3. Great work! Congratulations. Haha. Yeah, I also couldn't find a 11mm drill bit. Had to use a 10mm bit with sandpaper wrapped around it.
  4. As requested, here are the measurements of the rear end. Spacer length = 8 mm (Made mine from some unused plastic sheet I rolled into a tube) Shaft length = 106 mm (Hacked original steel shaft) Diff height = 35 mm (DIdn't have time to disassemble the whole thing, but once you put it together, it should be around 35 ~ 36 mm tall.
  5. NeonScorcher, I can't find my build pics from years ago but you cut off the diff halves where I drew the red lines in the picture below. This removes the original mount for the 11x5 mm bearing so you'll have to re-drill a new 11mm hole. Then you glue them together (I just used clear epoxy) and you end up with a piece that's around 22-23ish mm tall. Sorry for the poor quality photo by this is what my diff looks like now. Lastly, you'll need a shorter F104 diff joint that came with with the F104 Aluminum Diff Housing Set (PN 54185). I was able to buy one separately so you don't have to buy the whole thing.
  6. Thanks @Fabia130vRS Yes, just shoot me a message if you need photos. The front will be perfect 160mm wide once you fit touring car wheels on the F104 suspension. As for the rear, you need to remove 10mm from either side to make the 180mm F103GT. I also have special king pin hop up 53119, but it's a few mm short. Maybe you have to shave off some material from the steering knuckles. Note that I made the chassis wider in the middle. This is to help accommodate the electronics.
  7. Skip the TA05 bumper. The body mounting points are too far forward for an M body. You need to create your own. I haven't tried using an F104 kingpin but I'm afraid that it will also rub on M wheels. I'm looking for 30mm - 32mm kin pins so you could put the spring on top of the steering knuckle. This way it will fit the M wheels.
  8. Hi! I made that F103GT Mini conversion. That's my chassis (and car) in the photo. The first chassis I made was for M wheelbase. Also made another chassis for S wheelbase. Here's a pic of it with the body on. Everything was pretty much hand made. I had very little power tools. The chassis is an FRP I hand-laid, then cut/filed to size. No CAD. No CNC. Just used basic engineering skills. LOL. The front is pretty straight forward. Just use F104 arms. The tricky bit is that the original F103GT kingpins I think are too long for M wheels. (I'm using nitro foam tires so I have no problem). The rear end is also tricky. You need to cut the axle to length. The left side is simple. Just make a shorter spacer. I used some leftover plastic I had. The right side is difficult. You need to machine the original F103GT diff to shorten it. Also made a new bumper out of plastic sheet. This way, I could reposition the body posts closer to the chassis. The original F103GT bumper was too long.
  9. Thanks for the kind words! But yeah, I'm sure it's fun on the first day, building rc kits for 8 or 9 hours straight. Then after that, it'll be a chore. Can't beat the guy in quality control though. That's fun all day every day.
  10. Yup. No need for IFS. The F40 you see in the picture is a stock TT01 underneath.
  11. The F40 is mounted on a standard TT01 chassis. The hex hubs are also quite wide that the nuts barely had any threads to lock onto.
  12. Thanks for the kind words guys. There were some things I left out in the story that I'd like to share with you. I didn't see rere-Top Force bodies, but this was the shelf full of lexan body molds. There's another shelf to the left full of them! Technically we weren't allowed to take close up pictures, but obviously we did. Yes, 22 kits per hour! Here's the best part. At the end of the production line, there's a guy there that just plays with RCs all day. He was 'Quality Control'. He basically takes an finished XB kit, shoves batteries in it, then runs it for 5 mintues around a tiny carpeted area inside the factory. That's his JOB! This is the guy I'm taking about:
  13. A month ago, a group of local motoring journalists were invited for an exclusive tour of the Tamiya Factory in Cebu, Philippines. Luckily, I was part of that group. It was the first time for them to let outsiders have a look inside and I have a lot of pictures and a long story to tell about the trip. Here are some of shots I had from the trip. You can read my full write up and tons more photos here http://timeattackmanila.com/featured/exclusive-look-inside-tamiya-factory-cebu/
  14. I've owned one in the past and never got issues in the tranny. Have you tried to do a mock installation with the gear halves open? Or perhaps the pinion is not in the right position? Or...the binding is coming from some place else, such as the outdrives.
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