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Grandmasterflash

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Posts posted by Grandmasterflash

  2. Posted

    Supershot eh......

    I posted this on another thread...but I had one back in the day....I was the only Tamiya 4WD racer against all the fangdangled flash Schumacher and Kyosho cars with saddle packs and Reedy motors. I was only 13-14yrs old but man did I give them a run for their $$$$$. Nothing flash in the car...an ESC that's it. Had a 'Technipower' motor with the endbell adjusted all the way up...and to me it flew!! I bought it off the member at the club second hand but it was in mint condition.....can't remember what I paid for it or what happened to it after all these years.

    Wish I still had it...

  3. Posted

    The shocks didn`t work properly 30 years ago,they havn`t changed that much at all,have they?

    :D

    The car drives best on sand,the shockers never worked properly,they probably never will,they do look good though :(

    To be honest after much fiddling around the shocks on my BC work quite well considering.... I wouldn't say it bounces around much at all. When running the rear sits in a neutral position (level) with the shocks 1/2 compressed.

  4. Posted

    I would be keen to meet up for a bash.

    I don't live far from the CBD so I can get to most places fairly easy but I don't know of anywhere that is particularly suitable for a bash (I usually go down to the local park).

    It has been too long since I have run any of my cars (abut 5-6 months) so I would be keen to meet up if I can fit it in around my weird work schedule.

    I'll do some searching for local TC members and try and PM a few like 'Swarm' suggested.... maybe we can arrange something. I'd prefer to race around on hard sand or dirt if possible. I don't mind travelling so keep an eye out for suitable locations if you get a chance.

  5. Posted

    Its an italian manufactuer ARX racing, very cool they do mx bikes to and can convert one to another or to nitro to! It has a weighted flywheel inside the rear wheel

    that is powered by a motor and esc inside that is brushless, this keeps it up right more so lol!

    Will post more pics if anyone is interested, I have alaways like rc bikes to from when young i first saw kyosho's hang on rider bikes i have one now!

    and found it strange how tamiya never made an rc bike wonder why?

    I just checked out the new Schumacher r/c dirt bike on their website. They have links to youtube videos of the bikes on skateboard 1/4 pipes doing all sorts of weird stunts!! Looks pretty cool

  8. Posted

    the trick is to compress the piston shaft 1/3 down, then tightened.

    it took a couple times for me.

    after i tightened the cap i tested with my fingers,if it diden't feel right i repeated the step again till it felt right to me.but mine work fine ;)

    I did that but all that ended up happing was the shock being only able to compress from full extension to 3/4 of the way down.

  9. Posted

    your battery is a 6.6 volt with 1100 mah capacity. Mah = milli amp hours. Depending on the amount of current being drawn by motor, will determine your run time. If the motor is drawing 10 amps... time 11 min = 1100 which is your run time. To get more run time you will need a 2000 mah battery.. Etc.

    Higher voltage pack will give you more power and more speed.. But not longer run time.

    Magic.....just the info I needed....I'll post one more question on here, then I'm done taking over this thread, sorry guys!!!

    Will my TEU-101BK ESC and a 540 motor handle battery packs 7.2V 2000mah up to 4500mah etc???? The ESC instruction manual says 'Power Supply: 7.2V (with 6 cells)' so I'm assuming I'm good to go?

  11. Posted

    Low voltage is not a problem for Li-Fe batteries, they have a low limit, but the car will have slowed significantly before the battery reaches that limit. Because Li-Fe is more or less idiot proof is why Tamiya have gone for them rather than Lipo.

    Terry, this is a stupid 'newbie' question ... I've searched quite a bit on the website here and am getting conflicting posts. So, can you tell me whether I will be able to run higher battery packs that what I'm currently running ........ ie (Tamiya 6.6V LF1100) in my BC...and if so is this going to give me a longer run time or power or both?? I'm assuming a longer run time.

  12. Posted

    Sounds like great fun! what sort of run time were you getting from the 6.6v life battery? and did you use an esc with lipo cut off or just wait until it slowed?

    I'm running the stock Tamiya ESC that comes with the kit. Not sure about the lipo cut off don't have much knowledge in regards to that technology....but when the car starts to run slow I only have about 30sec until it won't move @ full throttle. I can usually drive it a short distance at half throttle to get it moving but that's it.

  14. Posted

    I think the point is that it's not underpowered, it's heavy (with a high C of G), and adding power might make it faster in a straight line, but will make the already challenging handling even more so.

    on the subject of batteries, I opted to go for the carson 2700 hump pack and got around 45 minutes (though not all of it at full speed) of running from it.

    Holy S*&t ...45 mins.....that's crazy... I'm used to the old days when a 7.2V 1200 pack would last 7-8mins max!

  15. Posted

    A quick update for those interested. For those taht have had SRB's before this stuff is old hat.....

    I had my 1st run (then 2nd,... 3rd, ...4th ..... & 5th) with my BC today. Initially on hardish sand then on short grass.

    Bear in mind I haven't had any R/C cars since 1987-1990 and they were in this order. Hornet, Wildone, Supershot & Turbo Ultima.

    It was awesome to finally get in up and running!!

    My running equipment was: Futaba Megatech 2PL radio gear with the Tamiya 6.6V LF100 Racing Pack

    Points of note:

    1. I found that it runs better with the lower ratio gearing (15T / 70T). My setup on the 1st run was with the higher pinion (20T & 65T) then I swapped over to the lower ratio.....much better.

    2. Make sure you apply the AG Thread Lock as it says in the manual. I didn't on one of the universal joints and torsion bars and paid the price, loosing a wheel and the shocks running low.

    3. I set up my shocks quite soft and its great to watch them work over the bumpy ground.

    4. Understeers badly, particually if you glide around corners....you need to keep up the acceleration....although too much and you'll roll!!!!!.......careful!! lol

    5. Had a couple of tumbles cornering and sustained a little bit of damage to the lights on the roll cage.

    6. When jumping the car tends to nose dive a little.

    7. The only negative was that I did feel that car was a bit underpowered. (any suggestions on what other a slightly more powerful motors might be an option?

    Overall I was more than happy with my new BC. These SRB cars are what made alot of people get in R/C and finally the BC has got the justice it derserves with the re-release. When I was just a kid I remember my big sister buying me the 1985 Tamiya Catalogue and the SS and RR were in it. My mate and I would talk about the SS and RR for days on end dreaming one day of having one of them. When my parents finally bought me an R/C car (Hornet) in xmas of '86/'87 both the SS & RR had ceased production.

    Times change..teenage years come and girls, booze and real cars take preference....but now.......I guess you can say ..perhaps I'm having a midlife crisis and reliving my youth?

  17. Posted

    Very nice looks great do like white wheels, i have not even started on the body yet! I was born in 1980 so wasnt around when it first came out

    but this car just called to me buy me lol!

    Have you set the rear to be lower so wheels dont tip in so much or just pushed down on rear for pics?

    I prefer the rims to be white as I didn't like the plastic grey look without paint. My other option was going to stay with grey but a painted grey, much like a flat primer colour.

    I had an absolute nightmare putting the shocks together, trying to get them soft enough and get full range of motion. I prefer them soft than hard. I'm not going to be doing huge jumps, but rather soft sand or flat dirt running. I wanna see the shocks work...that's part of the fun racing it about and watching it in motion. In that previous pic it was just they way I placed the car down. If I lift the rear up, the shocks will stay extended and the wheels on the unusual angle that we expect from these cars.

    I'm taking all the pic's I can tonight because tomorrow...................it's time to let loose and let her rip.....it's never going to be that clean again!!!

  18. Posted

    This was my 1st building of an R/C car in nearly 20 years after getting out of the hobby.......never been interested in getting back into R/C until the BC was re-released.

    I did keep an eye on what was on the market over the years but all the new cars these days don't have character. I felt like I was 12yrs old again building my 1st R/C car.....lol, my wife thinks I'm re-living my childhood again.

    post-30791-1249642241_thumb.jpg

    post-30791-1249642299_thumb.jpg

  19. Posted

    wow its fast then what did you set the thingy rating to amps i think it is lol, i had it on 6 but from reading instructions

    can be as high as 8 for this battery must charge even faster then, but also says for longer life charge at 2!

    I put it on expecting it to take atleast 30mins then ping lol

    I had mine on 7A. But reading through the instructions that might be too high.

    Quote from the instruction manual:

    "The Tamiya LF2200-6.6V Racing Pack may be charged up to the maximum of the 4C rate (2.2x4=8.8A), so it may be charged at 8A with this charger".

    ...................................................................................................................................................................................................................

    I'm assuming in the case of the LF1100-6.6V battery this would apply??......... 1.1x4=4.4A..???? So we are best setting the charger @ 4A ????

  21. Posted

    Would you be able to adjust the slipping by tighting or lossening the screws on the side plates on this diff? Or is this just a normal differential. I'm just trying to compare it to an old adjustable slip diff I had in my old Kyosho Turbo Ultima back in the late 80's/90's.

  23. Posted

    I have a very newbie question that hopefully some of those more experienced members maybe able to answer for me?

    My 'Buggy Champ 2009' kit arrived in the mail yesterday and I'm about to start building. I also purchased the corresponding Tamiya #55105 LF1100-6.6V racing pack and the Tamiya charger for that pack.

    My question is: ........ The Tamiya charger comes with leads to attach to a standard 12v car battery. Can I run this charger through my car cigarette lighter socket instead, by wiring up a cigarette lighter attachment to the leads???? Or will there be a drop in voltage or something else that won't allow me to do it.

    Cheers!!

  24. Posted

    Thank you all!

    You are right SteelRat, I originally placed this pictures in a build-topic on a Dutch website. The pictures give a good impression how new I am at scratchbuilding. I have redone the bumpers and roof rack more than once :)

    Mate if that's your 1st effort scratch building we have many more treats to look forward to. That is F&^4'n awesome!!!

    Can't wait to see you do a BC or SS in the near future!!!

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