Azkuma

Ah nice thanks. From the picture and other text I've found it's definitely a new chassis for the R (not reinforced carbon which is required for DB-01 to use motor heat sink/plate). I also just ran some numbers based on the difference between the 2 to see how much you'd spend on a regular DB to get it to the R spec had here's the breakdown in the pic: Difference works out to be somewhere around £100 cheaper for the R with wheels/tyres/body/540 std added to the cost so it seems worth doing it this route rather than the standard + hop ups. The only main difference is that on the std setup I haven't included the TRF suspension setup which may be around £100 extra and therefore make the actual difference around £200 which is the cost of a Durga alone Seems an interesting propostion provided I can get hold of a Durga bodyshell.....!! B)

Does anyone know for sure if the DB-01R uses the reinforced carbon chassis? In the list of additional features it mentions the '54040 DB01 Motor Heat Sink' and from what I've been able to see the standard chassis doesn't have the 'hole' cut out for this to fit (as expected) but the reinforced carbon chassis does (54041 Tamiya DB01 Carbon Fibre Reinforced Chassis). Can I assume that the R does have the carbon chassis, or is it more likely to be a standard chassis with the 'hole' cut out to fit the motor heat sink? Any ideas?

Me I browsed the Futaba and Spektrum sites all day and read reviews and watched videos on YouTube. Came home then wrote on the forum here as still not sure which way to go (Stick 2.4 or Wheel 2.4). Looked at my Hotshot and can't wait to put it on the track on saturday. Looked at my Dark Impact and thought, I need some radio gear quick. Looked at my Avante Mk II and thought, "when am I going to build this". Looked at my Monster Beetle and thought "when am I going to put it all back together?" Didn't bother taking the Samurai out of the bag, as he's resting for now Looked on the bay to see what's on offer, then back to Club.com to look at some vintage stuff.

Hi guys, I'm also thinking about upgrading to a 2.4Ghz radio system and was initially thinking of the Acoms Technisport but I'm not too sure about going to wheel and throttle control after many years using stick controllers. So I started looking for 2.4Ghz stick controllers and found the Futaba 3GRS which is effectively the same as the 3PM. I've also been looking at the Spektrum DX3S which comes with two receivers and two servos in the pack and it looks very tempting indeed as I have two cars that I know I want to fit radio gear to but don't want to have multiple transmitters all over the place. Hmmmmm, not sure which way to go but I'm still keen on my stick (3GRS) but the dual receiver/servo package from Spektrum is cheaper and instantly more usable than the Futaba which may be more superior. Any more comments guys?? Is the Acoms Technisport 2.4Ghz any good? Is the Spektrum DX3S 2.4GHz any good? Has anyone tried the Futaba 3PM, what about the 3VCS which is on par with the 3PK? Does anyone have first hand experience with the 3PK and 3VCS? Oh my head is spinning with all the possibilities!! Just want some practical advice as I may start racing at my local club here in South London and the 27Mhz Acoms just won't do. Thanks in advance for any advice. Azkuma

Dude, what shell is that? It looks sweeeeeet!!!!! Need to get me one of those for my Dark Impact!

Just to add to this thread, I recently had the same 'bleeping' sound from my TEU-101BK but mine was correctly setup and I was running it in the park when said bleeping began. Spoke to the shop where I bought the kit (Hotshot re-issue + Acoms Techniplus pkg) and they told me to unlpug everything and use the receiver battery box in the pkg to check that the receiver was working properly. Bleeping meant that there was no signal being sent from transmitter, was what I was told but how that could happen with new batteries in the transmitter and a fully charged 6 cell is beyond me, but steering servo also was not responding. I thought I had fried my motor or esc or receiver, but bleeping esc/motor meant that something was alive. Anyway, I unpulgged everything and used the battery compartment with 4 x AA and hey presto servos now respond so put humpty dumpty back together again and everything was fine. On closer inspection of the transmitter battery compartment, it seems as if it's possible for the + side of the batteries to not be in contact with the very thin contact post and hence the circuit isn't completed. It happened again this evening when I switched on the transmitter, then the exc, then the bleeping started again. However, there were no signal lights on the transmitter and the battereis are not dead. So I wriggled them around to make sure they are all in contact and hey presto, bleeping is gone. So it seems that Tamiya have manufactured a nice piece of kit in the esc, but the Acoms transmitter has contact points that the batteries are prone to slip off from. If anyone else has bleeping issues, perhaps this is worth trying out. Azkuma

Yep, you need to follow instructions in esc manual to set full speed forward and full speed backwards: 1 Single blinking flash - Push forward for full speed then press set button 2 Return to neutral 3 Double blinking flash - Puch backwards for full reverse then press set button Job done, and you're ready to roll.

Dude, I'm just like you having returned to the hobby after some absence of 10+ years and it's great to see so many cool cars again. I wish I had pockets as deep as yours but why no Hotshot in your collection??

You could also add the Marui Samurai to the list as it was one of a few that were chain driven 4WD buggy and had a lockable central differential which made a lot of difference on certain surfaces. Seen a couple of very nice examples on the bay going for decent money recently.