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Azkuma

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Posts posted by Azkuma

  1. This motor is definitely a Technigold and the reason I say for definite is because of the brush profile.

    The Technipower brush end that fits in the endbell has a rounded profile whereas that of the Technigold has a shape that almost looks as if it will be an octagon. I'm looking at my Bigwig, with Technigold, and Supershot with Technipower and I didn't realise the subtle difference until now, but it's there.

    I know this reply is a bit late but it's a Technigold for sure. :)

  2. Stripped down and cleaned a Technipower motor and resoldered the disconnected negative power lead. I must admit, I'm not good at soldering so the thing may not even run :) I was about to fit it back into the Supershot but then realised that the smaill metal pipe that is used to align the motor to the gear box (depending on pinion size) was missing so need to get one on order before I can fit it :)

    I do have spare brushes but want to see how it performs with the old brushes before I throw out the old ones.

  3. Hey guys,

    So The postman did try to deliver, twice, but I wasn't in, :P , so "This is what I went to the depot to collect":

    post-31016-1312800302_thumb.jpg :D

    Came with a wheel controller complete with all electronics fitted, and the Technipower motor with negative power lead detatched from the motor. Everything was in need of cleaning including the box front which after a quick wipe with a damp cloth actually came out white. :(

    It wasn't only the box that got a clean, the whole car was dissasembled and cleaned over the weekend and put back together. Shocks with new damper oil, both front and rear gear boxes re-greased and the next step will be to strip the motor with the spreading tool (which is still attached to the blister pack and has never been used) and give it some tlc (new brushes, tyres, pinion on order from Tony's Tamiya Parts), and resolder the negative power lead. I've also got on order the 8.4 battery holder, a TEU 302BK ESC and a BZ motor which should give more grunt than the Technipower even after a rebuild.

    The yellow body looks quite neat with only a small crack at the front right (as we look at it) by the slotted hole so I'll leave it as is and order a repro body to do a box art. Inside the box is an unused set of original decals plus an unused/uncut/unpainted rear wing (is it possible to just get hold of the front cowling from anywhere??).

    The wheels were painted yellow as well, :rolleyes:, but that's ok as I'll simply cover them with some oval blocks (as the spikes were obviously non existent :D ) , use them for running, and put the pin spikes onto the gold plated rims I got last year from ebay (forgot who sold them but he did them in silver as well, which I've got on my Hotshot) and leave them for display.

    This will be a runner so I'll post up some more pics once the restoration is completed.

    Azkuma B)

  4. My 2 cents:

    I say we burn the OP for heresy and drag his charred carcass through the streets of London and chant "Kill the pig! Cut his throat! Kill the pig! Bash him in!" (sorry, I was watching Lord of The Flies today). :unsure:

    How dare you sir, I've just won an auction on the bay for a vintage, yes that's right a vintage Supershot. It's not even in my possesion and I come across this blasphemous topic. :)

    I was going to ask if anyone knows where I can get hold of the 8.4v Battery holder parts (5296), as I want to run it at full pelt when I've given it a good strip down and clean.

    In all seriousness, to answer the original post this is like any hobby, you have your fun when you can and if you happen to be the last person with the mint copy of Superman 1 then you're sitting on a tidy sum. There are some things that appreciate with age, and some don't whatever the reason may be. Some things will be more highly sought after than others and that will add to its intrinsic value.

    As many have already stated, the flood of the race cars in the 90/00 that beat off Tamiya's domination (real or percieved) meant that the cars from the 80s became vintage due to better equipped models being available, and now we're all in our 30s/40s with more money to spend (yeah right) we're looking for those things that we couldn't afford as kids.

    I for one will keep going as its not so much of an addiction per say but a passion and personally buidling my Tamiya Cheetah all those years ago after being destructive to all my previous radio controlled cars is what ultimately lead me to doing a degree in Mechanical Enginnering. How do they work and why? On top of that it was the sheer thrill of driving something that you built that to this day cannot be quelled. It truly is great stuff.

    Oh sorry, I did say my 2 cents, can I have change from a fiver please :):-)

    Long may RC reign especially Tamiya vintage cars and remember Tamiya's slogan: Toys They're Not!

    Azkuma

    PS: If anyone can help me out with the 8.4v Battery Holders I'd be grateful.

  5. If I remember correctly it was a little over £200 here in the UK for the kit alone. A LOT of money in 1988.

    What I want to know is...what is it specifically about the kit that makes it so expensive? I know there are the aluminium parts but there does not seem to be much to them? Is FRP an expensive material to produce?

    What I want to know is what motor will it be released with? A new brushed Techigold or a brushless kit of some description and something worthy of being put into a top line car?

  6. Got my BigWig up and running last night (whoop whoop) with the 8.4 v 1700mAh Sanyo stick that I've had for years. I think I need to retire my old Tamiya 8.4v Gold 1200 as that just doesn't cut it anymore and I'll be on the lookout for some higher mAh 8.4v.

    Also need to strip my Technigold and give it a good cleaning.

    :blink:

  7. Thanks for your reply .

    There are many valid points in your comment not the least that you learnt from your Dad's good advice .

    Unfortunately I live in out in the country. My nearest town is 300 kilometres away return and the hobby shop there has a limited range the internet has been a godsend to my wife and I for the most part as we make 80% of our purchases online apart from food .So if I want to stay in this hobby (or infact any hobby) I will have to continue to shop online and that really goes for most items we purchase like I mentioned .

    I have already purchased another Hilux but from Jason this time at least I know what I will get from him there are no suprises as I have purchased many items from him in the past .

    As for the hilux I purchased from CTY300 I think it has found a new home in a trade with a TC member I will receive a kit I have been after and he will receive my hilux minus the box.

    For the most part online shopping is good I must say I have had better results from online shops rather than ebay if I buy say something from a hardware shop online and it gets delievered and its broken or defective I simply return it and either get a replacement part or a refund and this applies to 96% of the online shops I buy from ,where as ebay is a different entity I have had quite a few bad experiences as ebay is like a electric bug lantern it attracts all types most get zapped but you get your insects like CTY300 who can ride it out by sitting on the outter cage .

    Online shops are different they have a reputation to uphold and and they do it for a buisness,ebay lets anybody use and tarnish their name .

    Anyways I have taken on board what you have said I value all comments .

    Stuart.

    Yes you do live in the middle of nowhere but it sounds like you have already resolved your situation and for that I'm happy for you.

    How many NIB kits do you have now at last count (if you can cound that many :lol:)?

    Put up a pic in your showroom so we can all drool :lol:

    Azkuma

  8. Dude,

    Sorry to hear that this has happened to you and the pictures from the actual listing and that of what you received are totally different. :P Others have given you great advice already as to what you could do none more so than your wife: BUILD IT. :lol:

    Now I'm not as lucky a collector as most on this forum, but I'd tend to agree with your wife, build it and be done with it. The lesson to be learned however is one that my dad taught me a long time ago about making purchases of any significant value, and he said make sure you can buy the item from somewhere you can go back and complain in person because shops do not like the embarrassment of a complaining customer. My dad is 100% right in this and that's why all my household goods are bought from reputable High Street shops so that I can always walk in there and complain if need be.

    With the onset of the Internet and world wide trading it brings things to you that may never have been in your reach which is both good and in your case bad. I've recently (luckily) purchased a 2nd hand BigWig from a seller here in the UK with no problem and the cost was £77. I got what I paid for no problem but you have 'trusted' someone with much more money and been disappointed at what you received. I've also just bought some spare parts (C Parts) for my new BigWig and one of the knuckles is missing from the tree whereas it is clearly displayed in the listing. I've sent a message to the seller asking what he wants to do and so far no response. The tree part cost me £10 including postage to London so if he doesn't send me the missing part no problem I'll give bad feedback and go about my business.

    I'd say for the most part Ebay will have good stories from buyers and sellers alike, but then there are always these horror stories that make us all sit up and take note, and we should ALL TAKE NOTE. :lol:

    Be cautious about who you give your money to if you're not prepared to lose it and this is like gambling: "Never bet what you cannot afford to lose". Ebay is no different in this regard so I'm sorry to see that you haven't gotten what you thought you paid for, but as you said that which doesn't kill you will only make you stronger.

    So, be strong, suck it up, build the kit (put some bling on it and put it in your showroom for all of us to see), enjoy it then at some point buy another NIB from someone from whom you can see the whites of their eyes as you give him/her your cash and they hand you over a big NIB Toyota Hilux. (This is how I bought a Durga, hard cash, whites of his eyes, smiles all round, no problem ;) ).

    Kind regards

    Azkuma :lol:

  9. Thanks for the replies guys.

    I'll definitely fit a steel pinion if running anything more than a 19T and as for grease I've been using Tamiya's Molybdenum grease but not sure if that is widely used by anyone but it is what they recommend on their gears.

  10. Just a question to all the speed kings out there as I'm just curious how much a Hotshot can actually handle. I know a Super Stock BZ should be sufficient but I've seen Hotshots with brushless setups so I'm wondering how low (number of turns) can you go for a motor in a re issue Hotshot?

    Is a Dynatech 01R/02H too much to handle?

    What about a Super Modified 11T?

    Who is running with a 10T brushless, or even lower?

    How long before the gears melt and you need to rebuild the whole car?

    Of course using any of these motors is precluded by the fact that full ball races are being used all round. :)

  11. I have a RC magazine (UK mag RRC) and Sand Scorcher Price in a shop advertisement was £34.95GBP + P&P.

    Cannot remember what date ot was so it may have been a year or 2 after first release and possibly clearance price?, although im sure as a KId in a shop i saw them sell for £49.95?..

    How much????

    £34.95 for a Sand Scorcher?? What year was that magazine advert? Does anyone remember how much an Avante/Egress actually costed at the time of their original launch?

  12. This is an interesting question indeed because if we were to take inflation into account it might work out to be prohibitively expensive for Tamiya to manufacture let alone sell any vintage re releases. However they have done very well by releasing the 2 classics of the Buggy Champ and the Sand Scorcher and still as authentic as they were back then and the kits of these currently sell for ~£260.

    I'm not sure how much they used to sell for back in the 80's (anyone have a price list or something we could use for comparison?) and given that these two had metal parts which are usually more expensive to manufacture then perhaps these two would be a the top of any cost chart for re re's and so if (hopefully) Tamiya were to do an Avante or an Egress then they wouldn't be crazy in price cos I'd like to have one for myself ;)

  13. why not put the same motors and batts in them?

    if you did that the topforce would destroy them all.

    (i think even if you didn't the top force would still smoke'm)

    Seems probable:

    Top Force

    RTR Weight = 1690 grams

    But can you fit an 8.4v in a Top Force?? I don't think so.......!! :P

    And for comparison:

    Avante 2001 RTR Weight = 1770 grams (Heavier than Super Shot by 50g)

    Couldn't find any details for Avante but it must have been heavier than this but even so neither of the Avante models nor the Top Force could use an 8.4v (unless someone out there has done this..!) so I'd still bet either the Big or Super(Technigold/8.4v) would smoke the newer Vintage models :(

  14. I think the answer is in the gearing and weight no? What are the ratios with the kit included pinion?

    Well seeing how they are both variations of the Hotshot (same gearbox) I think their gearing would be similar so if you chose a smaller pinion you'd have faster acceleration for sure (is 13T the absolute minimum for these cars?). The deciding factor could be the weight and according to Tamiya101.com they have the following:

    RTR Weights

    BigWig - 1750 grams

    Super Shot - 1720 grams

    Does this mean that the BigWig is kitted out at the start with an 8.4v and the Super Shot only with a 7.2v? Is the difference in weight between the batteries 30g??

  15. No one has thought of this except me? I can't be the only 'petrol-head' (maybe that should be electric-head) amongst us, surely someone out there watches Top Gear besides me and likes to see straight line speed tests???

    So if I said the Avante was as slow as a brick and could never beat a Super Shot or BigWig, would anyone reply and flame me down?? :lol:

    If I had a Super Shot I'd answer my own question and post the results here, alas I only got a BigWig this week (2+ decades after first release :lol: ) hence my post.

  16. So you guys out there with numerous 4WD cars should be able to answer this one.

    You take your Super Shot and your BigWig and line them up together and hit the throttle, which one will get off the line the quickest (both have Technigold as standard and SuperShot needs to change battery holderto fit 8.4v Gold Power)? You could include your Avante's or Top Forces, or Egresses in the line up as well (but I suspect 8.4v + technigold would trump 7.2v + Dynatech 01/02H)

    Just some fun nothing more because no doubt many of you have upgraded your Super Shots with brushless systems and lipos, but this is purely for complete standard vintage setups, no new/high tech :lol:

    So a sraight dash to say 30m or 40m Top Gear style, who crosses first/last?

    :lol:

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