Jonny555
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Posts posted by Jonny555
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In the past I've used pocket warmers and kept my batteries in my pockets. They warm enough from the start and keep warm because of the running. Pocket warmers are very cheap to buy.
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The standard Tamiya 540 motor has 27 turns whereas the Tamiya RS-540 Sport Tuned motor has 23 turns.
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I've been Jonny555 since the mid 70's when I first used CB radio. Originally my 'handle' was LittleJohn, but an Italian bloke always called me Jonny555 for some reason. It just stuck.
My avatar is just a picture of my Tt-01 with it's Impreza 2004 body on. I usually race it with it's BMW M3 body.
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Unfortunately, you won't be the last person to get ripped off.
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I can't recommend any manufactures (I've always designed and built my own), but I can say that racing boats is fantastic fun. The speeds are huge and it does take a little practice, but great fun. My first ever time racing (too many years ago now) I piloted my dad's friends boat straight into the concrete edge of the parks lake. He wasn't too amused, but extremely encouraging for me to take it up. Back then my dad built the boats and I sunk them.
Since my early teens I've designed and built my own.Go for it and enjoy it.
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Just a quick note.
If you find a site has gone away, try http://web.archive.org/. A very useful site when looking for old pages.
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Something like THIS?
Looking at all that guys videos, he's got quite a few of this type of truck.
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I've finished the paintwork and put the decals on my new BMW M3 GT body shell today. Also fitted my new wheels.
Until I can afford another new chassis I can swap the bodies and wheels between the BMW and the Impreza.
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I would just like to say how pleased I have been with Time Tunnel Models.
I've made several orders with them now via the website and found the process to be quick and very easy. Orders were made around lunch time and the goods arrived the following morning. I hate having to wait for things (very impatient), but I'm really happy not having to any more.
Well done guys.
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Bought a BMW M3 GT body shell with paints, decals and some shiny new wheels with tyres.
Ordered a load of hop up parts for my TT-01 and bought a new battery charger. All in all, quite an expensive day, so far!
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The wheel should be a very close fit over the hex. The hex should be perfectly centred. It's got to be either the wheels or the hex. With the hex off the car, how well does it fit the wheel?
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The wheel hexagons should make sure the wheel is centred. Could be several reasons your suffering wobble. The hexagons have worn, the bearings might be shot, the axle is bent or maybe you haven't tightened the nuts enough.
On my nitro stadium truck I've worn through a few wheel hexagons, so I've replaced the standard plastic ones with aluminium ones. In fact the last failure I had destroyed the wheel as well. The hexagon totally rounded and ripped the centre out of the wheel. This happened because of the fierce workload I put the truck through, causing the wheel nut to loosen enough to allow some movement between wheel and hexagon. It's well worth using thread lock on the nuts.
Maybe some other members will have other ideas. Hope you get this sorted.
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I've been told that the picture is out of date by at least 3 years. Apparently the track has been moved, is now half astro turf and isn't open to the public. I might though take a drive over there just in case this old track is still there, but neglected and disowned. Unless that ground has been redeveloped I can't see why the track would have been destroyed.
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I mounted some a few weeks back for a friend. I put them in hot water for a short while and they went onto the wheel easily.
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Has anybody driven the off-road track at Park Hall Country Park in Weston Coyney, Stoke?
Is this place open for the public to use? There doesn't seem to be any gates or buildings at the track. It would be fantastic if we could use this place and it's only about 16 miles from me in Cheshire.
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It seems that the only paint flaking had already, pretty much, come off. What was left is adhered very well. I've been able to patch it up and it looks good now. It also seems strong now. I've given it some test bumps and no flaking.
I very much doubt there would be dodgy batches of the paint. Every batch is usually checked at source as part of the quality control. They have to test every batch to ensure the viscosity is correct and that it coats properly. I think that the shell got contaminated after washing, or I just didn't do a very good job in my initial preparation.
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It's in the process of being repainted now. Hopefully it will work this time.
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Been to Barnstormers for some more paint and he remembers me buying the last lot. He's sure I used the PS.
I did only apply the paint in thin coats, as I always do. I've got bodyshop qualifications and know how the spray. I left 20 mins between coats. The body was fully and thoroughly washed beforehand and dried properly. It's bugging me now what went wrong.
Anyway, I've got more paint, blue and black for the bonnet abd made doubly sure it's the PS. Hopefully it will take better this time. The old stuff will no doubt be a pain to remove in places, but I'll persevere.
Thanks for input.
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I thought I had, but maybe I picked up the wrong one. Bins have been emptied so I can't check. Rubbing the paint as it is now is causing it to flake, so I probably have used the wrong one. Was sure I used the PS-16 reference when I picked up the paint.
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Last night I attended a club meeting and entered my first races for over 25 years. That 25 years gap certainly showed itself along with the fact it was my first ever time on carpet. Boy is that stuff slippery!!!
I had my fair share of crashes and rolls, but I must say that the paint on my Impreza performed very poorly. It's Tamiya paint and was applied correctly to the thoroughly cleaned shell. I expected damage, but not this amount.
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He'll never sell enough of those at that price! Is it gold lined or something.
All mine are 12th scale and prices start at around £3k, but they are considered collectors items which on the whole gain in value. When I first started about 12 years ago I built a Tudor style house which was sold for £950. Two years ago it sold for £3700. I don't know where it is now.
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After this amount of time and ignored emails, I would jump into my car and pay him a visit. Face to face would get things sorted, either you take your stuff back then and there or you get an assurance as to when things will be sorted.
Quite frankly this guy is taking the pee. I build commissioned doll houses that take an awful amount of time to build, but I keep my customers fully up to date and aware of time scales. If he cannot cope with demand he should cut back on his workload or expand so he can cope. It's simple business sense. Annoying customers only serves to damage the business and restrict it's growth.
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Tamiya, blimen Tamiya. Why oh why do you make me spend all my money on your cars..........wish I could read Japanese. That hopped up DB01 chassis looks like one for the shopping list (but no body shell?) and what is that 1/12 scale retro racer?
Try using the translator on the Google Toolbar. It's not great, but good enough to get the gist of things.
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Also when you say 239mm wheel base where are you measuring from?
Cheers.
Wheelbase is measured between the wheel centre's, front to back.
Since my early teens I've designed and built my own.
Rs540s Getting Darn Hottt!
in All things electric...
Posted
First thing is make sure the drive train is nice and smooth with no tightness anywhere. Make sure the pinion isn't too tight against the spur gear.
If all that is in order you will need to lower the gearing. By replacing the 13t pinion with a 15t you have upped the gearing which will put more pressure on the motor and cause it to get hot. Try going back to the 13t pinion but fit a larger spur gear. If you can't then fit a smaller pinion.
Be sure that the motor has got good air flow around it. Air flow is very important. The cooler the motor the more power it will generate because the energy isn't being converted to heat.