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floppydisk35

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About floppydisk35

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  1. In fact, that was what I was originally thinking, to shift the differential to the side! But since I will be lifting off parts from a Thunder Tiger SSK the differential is just, where it is and cannot be moved. To be honest though, I haven't yet checked this. If there exists a possible way of shifting the diff a great deal, I might actually revert back to the old plans. Sorry for not mentioning that in the previous comment. I don't want to sound like an idiot (but I bet I surely do!), but I don't really want to be better than anything else - this is the first RC I will be building. I haven't even built an RC kit! Well, I used to disassemble half my FF01 after dusty runs... Anyway, yes I do know the fact that a lower centre of gravity is desirable in EVERY situation, and in this case a 300gram motor sitting on top of a bonnet isn't what you call sensible. About performance, it will all be to how much the motor has to offer rather than how parallel the motor is to the car's axles, and how sensible I've been with the set up. What I want is something that looks weird - not necessarily meaning good. Well, I'm not going to strap fireworks at the back, though... Anyway, at the end of the day I want to feel good because I've done something fun. Still, to be honest I don't know what bevel gears have to offer, but if they're less efficient than two meshing straight cut gears, I might then opt for the latter option. Would it be a good idea to use the YR-F2's transmission idea for a dragster? That is, a pinion and a spur, and a belt... In terms of balance, everything needs to be shoved up to the front as much as possible for added traction, and I guess stability. For suspension, only the front end will have proper suspension, while the rear end will have the wheels fixed directly to the chassis plates. The reason being not to let it squat under acceleration. Also the rear tires need to be thin to avoid friction, but since there will be a loss of grip, I was thinking of downforce by means of a small wing attached to the rear end. And, to be honest I wasn't thinking of creating everything adjustable, but fixed - and the final result will be, it. The idea of making everything adjustable might be a better idea (I feel stupid for not actually thinking of this!) Anyway, thanks a lot for helping me in this, I reeeaaally appreciate it! Upon seeing that, I immediately remembered how a friend of mine just yesterday said that everything's "innovative" has already been made... I made a bet that she won't find anything similar. Well at least I don't know any front wheel drive dragsters..till now. Anyway, thanks for all the interest shown here! I will keep you all updated. But for now I'll toggle about the idea of the transmission...
  2. In fact I once had the opportunity to buy one, and the belt is what had hit me most, and the weird shock absorber placements. Anyway, the reason why it is not going to be transversly mounted is because of this; If the diff is exactly between both wheels and a direct drive system is applied (from motor to diff), the motor has to be offset. Since I guess a heavy 550 motor will be used, this will, I guess, provide more torque steer than the set up I want to apply... On the other hand I can apply the Yokomo's type of transmission, but since I don't want any gears meshing together involved, well... PS: Next Friday I'll be meeting my friend again. Hope we'll do some progress. Also, I might start the actual chassis design next weekend. PPS: I know it's bonkers but, I prefer calling it "interesting".
  3. Thanks a lot! You are right, using the widespread and well-known method you mentioned is the safest way to go, but i want to have the least amount of mechanical parts, even if that might increase the amount of difficulties in creating that..And yes, that spur will be somewhat angled, together with the motor... Thanks for your reply - no, really! I appreciate it!
  4. Whoa that's....that's fast! Well, I guess I have to up the stakes, now! Anyway, my friend came over a couple of days ago, and we decided to go crazy on the thing... thus a sketch was drawn! Practically, the motor turns a spur by means of a belt, spur is connected to a (locked) diff, driving the wheels. This means that the motor will be out of the bonnet, blower style. The reason being that for a donor car, we will be using parts from a Thunder Tiger SSK and Tomahawk, apparently. Initially I wanted the motor to be mounted transversely and connected directly via a belt, but since the differential is located halfway between the wheels, the motor was going to be badly offset. Therefore longitudinally mounted it shall be! Apart from the list of things which might go wrong (belt failing, unaligned gears, etc), what are other drawbacks of such system? Thanks for reading!
  5. Umm, that is the reason - I want to make something myself. Yes, it is easy to slap in a big motor, but then where's the fun? Hi, about distance...hmm, make that a 100m. Also, I was thinking of big fat foams for the simple reason of traction - also for high speed stability. Anyway, 90-100km/h was chosen only for modesty. I'll just take it as fast as I can, I guess! Still, I found these 1/10 pan cars tires from BSR Racing for 20 bucks. Seems plausible! Anybody know a good brushless motor accepting 4s? Oh and, do wheels and tires with around 15mm thickness exist?
  6. First things first, yes I know it's been about a year since I last logged in, sorry for that. :/ Anyway, last year I kept wanting to do a FWD dragster since last year, but I didn't have the money. No money, no car. Now that I've saved something, I think I can actually come up with something. In general, I have a set of parameters in mind; a. MUST be completely fwd. b. hocus pocus of parts up front for steering, transmissible, motors and suspension, and from the middle end to the rear end a plate or two to hold the batteries, rear wheels, servo, and maybe ESC in place. No rear shocks, for added traction. c. direct belt driven system. d. touch approximately 90, maybe 100km/h. e. must not spend more than €4/500. So, onto my list of boring questions... a. since direct drive seems like a good idea to me, what belts can support such 'tension'? It needs to be pretty short, since the motor will be hanging in front of the front axles - also, the diff will be locked: no need to go round bends, being a dragster. b. it needs to have a FWD body, and thus I'm thinking of either a Golf Mk.5, or a Civic. Since they fall in the 190mm range, and fat tires will be used for traction up front, the tires would then be pushed in the chassis. Are there any short arms, and shock towers present to accommodate this? If a 200mm width is to be kept, and 2 tires take about 5cm each, only 100mm are left to mount a shock tower, arms, diff, knuckles, steering mechanisms, ... Do such short parts exist? c. power plant, what's best? I need to get the most out of two 2S LiPo, 3200mah with 20C burst. Both of them will be mounted on at the same time. Also, since not much juice may be pulled from them at the same time, what if (oh, what if, what if!) a capacitor is connected in series with the Lipos for added power at a switch's flick? Final question.. d. is all this possible? Next Friday I'll meet with my friend to possibly compile a shopping list, but we obviously need input from other people. Thanks in advance, for your kindness! And sorry I haven't visited anywhere recently..! -Paul. EDIT: Forgot to mention that the main chassis and structure will all be custom made and cut, even the motor mounts.
  7. First day I took it at Ta' Qali (which is a recreational park....or just a huge parking space..no, really ) I somehow managed to find and drive over the only pothole there was, which was around 2.5" deep and around 2 feet wide, which was too much for my second hand FF01. Lost the front-right arm's inner screw, but my father found it on the ground. A couple of weeks later, when I handed the radio to my father, he panicked when he was about to crash, and instead of turning somewhy he accelerated, slamming it into a fence (made from bricks...), to which magically that same screw disappeared. We searched it around for around 10, 15 minutes, but it was useless. When I was in the car on the way home, I found it inside the FF01's tub chassis! Once more I took the same FF01 to a sand/fine dust/gravel ground in a scorching sun, which obviously rattled every inch of the car together with the ESC getting hot enough to not touch it for more than a second...and, obviously, I lost a knuckle arm which are famous for coming off at the worst possible moments. Fortunately the grounds were so white that the black screw was spotted easily. The FF01 is the only RC I've got, and I just love it to bits...maybe that's why I love it so much.. and also because with 16 years of use, it becomes flawed in some ways or others. I know all its tricks, how to drive it properly, how to save it's front tires and how to slide the rear tires endlessly. It just puts a grin on your face, even if it's sitting on the chest of drawers waiting for some kind of new screws to arrive..
  8. Also, everything that is fun isn't perfect. The M chassis line wasn't made for perfect driving and high competition racing, it was made just to have a some laughs with a couple of friends! I sometimes imagine the M chassis line to be the "safety valve" of the Tamiya people. After releasing a lot of TRF and high spec stuff, they go all bonkers and decide to do something like the M06, where, the motor is located behind the rear wheels which isn't exactly the ideal place for perfect balance. This M06 is just for laughs. Nothing serious. If I have enough money, I might actually buy it and maybe do a couple of slight mods. Nothing serious!
  9. The chassis looks....messy..
  10. Today Reuben gave me back the FF01, and tomorrow I should be testing the car out.. When I weighed the car, it resulted at around 1.1kg, something to which I believe is more than the car with the original plastic tub, by around 100g. Also, the car does flex a bit when twisted with your own hands, but nothing too drastic. We had discussed about using 1.5mm plates instead of 1mm, but this would actually result in a heavier car..... Yeah..it's going downfall. Tomorrow I'll test the car out.....God I'm feeling so deluded right now.....
  11. Hi, thanks for the comment Anyway, that Meccano is only to hold the body in place (a Golf Mk.5), since I was back on a tight budget at the time I did that.
  12. A picture says a thousand words, so I'll just post the pics first. The Final result, something I'm REALLY proud of So, what can say about those plates... Well, I designed the plates myself with a drawing board and a pen, and erm.... Well, I took idea from the FRP chassis for the FF01 and TA02, but I didn't want them to be just that, a squarish plate supporting the chassis from the top end, thus I applied a couple of curves around which gave it a medieval and a somewhat evil look. Reuben (my friend) then proceeded into cutting them with a jigsaw, something which somewhat scared me. I think it was the sound it was making..... Anyway, the battery packs are being held with two pieces of Velcro, but as a plate it was designed around my LiPo packs, but there is a little extra space for longer packs I might obtain someday or other. Also, Reuben and I may start to take orders on the plates. I may also design new plates for the user, tailor made plates, that is. So yeah, this thread is both to brag about the plates, and for maybe picking up a customer here on Tamiya Club BTW, the prices are negotiable But on the whole, I'm very happy with the results obtained. I still have to test them out, so tomorrow I'll respond to this thread on how they performed and everything Also, what do you think of the aesthetic side of these plates? Thanks for reading! Paul! (and Reuben, too )
  13. Once I used a 9.6V 1600mah battery on a 101bk, running a silvercan for around 10 minutes. Didn't get hot what-so-ever. I love the 101
  14. Yeah, I'm thinking to buy the heavy and rugged TB01. (Ehh...thinking..) I did some pretty intense research (around 2 minutes. Tops.) and I got interested in it. The biggest criteria was that I wanted a 4WD chassis. The only reason why I'm not interested in the TT01 chassis is because....well I don't know. It looks cheap. Anyway, onto the TB01; 1. Any "must buy" mods and hopups? 2. Is the weight issue a big problem? I think it would make a car handle realistically. But would also make the motor hotter. And the tires wear out faster. Hmmm..... 3. Would an RZ stay in nicely in there? What about gearing and good ESC (but cheap, remember, I'm a cheapo kid living off pocket money that is given to me at the beginning of the weekend)? 101-BK? 4. What are the differences between the TB01 and the TB01R chassis? I might take the car onto some loose gravel (and yes, I'd better replace an Enzo Ferrari shell with something more realistic, like a Mitsubishi or Subaru. Or a Datsun. Or a Lancia. Oooh now I'm beginning to drool...) Oh and another thing: I won't be competing on tracks, mainly having the car go up and down the road and then taking it to the crossroad at the end of the street, nothing drastic. So...thanks in advance PS: On a side note, how much would you buy a used FF01 roller with Golf wheels, tires, MSC, receiver, and all FF01 parts installed?
  15. Hi, I see that this thread has become a brushless discussion thread now Anyway I see people talking about "brushless vs. Type RZ". But, the only reason why I'm still running with brushed motors like the RZ is because of one reason: people like me, who only use their cars to make it go up and down the road and also to take it at the car-lazy crossroad down the street don't need big meaty brushless motors. Yes a proper brushless kit completely annihilates a standard RZ with a 101 controller, but in my case, I prefer the latter setup ....and it is also because right now I'm somewhat out of money for a new brushless kit But I still agree that brushless is the way to go, especially in the racing scene. Together with LiPo (at least I do have got that )
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