73robb

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About 73robb

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  • Location Romford, Essex, England

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  1. 73robb

    Schumacher upkeep

    I raced an optima mid and then a Schumacher procat at club level BITD. The Mid was a lot more forgiving to drive - if they were setup well, they could compete with the cat, but if they had a poor setup they were still driveable, but wouldn’t be pushing for an A final place. The cat was the opposite - very twitchy if not set up correctly, and it was very hard to drive if this was the case. If the setup worked, they absolutely flew. I think their reputation for being hard to build was mainly due to the manual using photos rather than diagrams, and also some of the parts needed adjustments before they would fit together.
  2. 73robb

    Reliable esc for dirt tuned motor

    Not a silly question at all - yes, I had knocked it 😳. I hadn’t even thought to check that, though I had gone through the menu to see if had put it on through there. thanks Rob
  3. 73robb

    Reliable esc for dirt tuned motor

    Thanks @Juggular i have no plans to move to brushless and I don’t race, so I’ll have a look at the 1060. I keep seeing it mentioned but wasn’t sure what it could handle, Cheers Rob
  4. Evening all, I need some advice.... I currently have a LRP Ai runner v2 with a dirt tuned motor, but although I have steering working the motor is now doing nothing. I’ve reset the Tx & Rx (core cr152), checked motor wires & brushes but no joy, just a steady green light on the esc. So I’m thinking it may have developed a fault (or could it be an issue with battery voltage? Running 4500 nimh)?? Assuming I cannot resolve the issue, can anyone recommend a fairly cheap reliable esc to run brushed motors on Nimh? I’m want something that is plug & play, or at least is easy to setup. Cheers Rob
  5. 73robb

    Any guess on re-re 2019?

    Does Hong Kong do the April Fools day custom??
  6. 73robb

    Blitzer Beetle Chassis Cover?

    Thanks everyone. I have some 1mm polycarbonate somewhere so may try cutting the to a slightly larger size than the chassis, then try to heat & bend the edge over the chassis. Failing this, I may go for much more straightforward suggestion of cutting a plate to fit over the chassis 😀 Thanks Rob
  7. 73robb

    Blitzer Beetle Chassis Cover?

    I was toying with the idea of a bear hawk body but wasn’t sure how snug it fitted. @Hobgoblin - how do you find the esc heat with the reduced airflow? Any issue of overheating? Thanks Rob
  8. Hi all, I’m currently rebuilding a Blitzer Beetle which will be largely used for running on the beach. I’ve read a few posts mentioning it being a sand trap, so have been trying to find if there is a chassis cover to fit? I found a post with something similar to what I’m looking for but it was for the DT-02 chassis, and it looks to be out of production anyway: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=108853&id=16126 Does anyone have anything they use to cover the chassis that will fit under the beetle body? Thanks Rob
  9. 73robb

    Ball caps vs Adjusters

    Can anyone recommend a particular brand of ball cap that they have found to be fairly sturdy? BITD the ones that came with the Cat XLS hardly ever came off during a race, but from memory they were bulkier compared to other types Rob
  10. 73robb

    Has Tamiya101 site finally closed?

    Looks like it’s back up now
  11. 73robb

    Silliest thing you've seen?

    I remember doing this to my dads car, out racing in the middle of a field and he had to get some of the other dads to push us to get going at the end of the day
  12. 73robb

    The "oh, now I get it" moment

    When I raced BITD, the only was to be able to compete with the pack was to have an Optima Mid or CAT XlS - or constantly upgrade a hotshot/boomerang, but this ended up costing more than buying something else that needed very little to get it competitive. I remember a 'rich kid' turned up at my club once with an Avante powered with a technigold - it was quick but just couldn't match the Optimas or Schumachers though the corners. My favourite to drive was always the Optima Mid, but did have a Cat at one point though I could never get it setup quite how I wanted it. Even though they were not overly competitive at the time, I think Tamiya always hold the nostalgic value, as without them a large number of us wouldn't have got into the hobby to start with. In my collection now I have Tamiyas ,Schumachers, Optima Mids, Yokomo Dogfighter & a PB Mustang, but pretty much the only one that gets driven frequently is my Blitzer Beetle or Blackfoot
  13. 73robb

    Celica GrB Questions

    I've used lighwater models a number of times and have always found them to be good sellers. Tony is great as well, and he posts very quickly. I think Mark is correct on the hex size (10mm?), but there did used to be some plastic adapters that fitted over the hex to make it 12mm to fit modern wheels. I can't find them on ebay but maybe someone is making them on shapeways? Have a look at this old post, it seems some other Tamiya hubs will fit straight on the axle to allow modern wheels
  14. 73robb

    Past hobby shops remembered

    For me it was Beatties in Romford, Essex, watching all the videos and staring at the cabinet at the built models. My first cars (hornet & Blackfoot came from here). once I started racing at my local club I started visiting Radio Active in Upminster & Chelmsford, mainly as they had a much wider range of hops up & advice on the cars. These were traditional hobby shops full of cars, planes & boats with a separate section for all the cars (Tamiya, kyosho, Schumacher, etc). loved just being in these shops browsing odds & ends, but there aren’t really like this in Essex or east London now, so my shopping gets done on eBay. No where near as much fun though
  15. 73robb

    Oh Dear.... (Bruiser clone)

    I think Tamiya have missed an opportunity with the Bruiser. I cannot afford to to spend £1k on a 3-speed kit and the electronics to go into it, so am never going to buy a Bruiser. But...if Tamiya had priced the Bruiser lower, then I may have been tempted. I know there are some differences between the original & re-re, but Tamiya have presumably had minimum design costs for the re-re as the bulk of the work was done 30 years ago. Similarly for the tooling (assuming they had kept originals), though I accept this may have not been compatible with modern equipment. Also, modern manufacturing techniques are presumably faster/cheaper than they were 30 years ago. So why put the high price on a product with a niche following, when there are more capable products for a similar price out there? Anyone wanting to do some serious bashing isn't going to opt for a Bruiser, it will be vintage fans Tamiya are targeting with this. Most of us may have more disposable income than we had 30 years ago, but surely they would have attracted more sales by going with a lower price, and shut off the threat from cheap clones at the start? Just my two-penny's worth...