Brooklyn Nights

Given that tamiya are doing re re's you'd think it would be acry to buy then but I haven't found any anywhere! Cheers Rich

Am I the only one who dislikes these coloured ariel straws??? Why is it that these now seem to be all you can buy? What happened to the good old plain TAMIYA semi see-through straws! Nobody sells them now it seems! BRING BACK BEATTIES!!! Cheers Rich

Thats just what I have done. I did see some guides to wiring up the esc with the power/eco switch but in the end I just didn't bother as my esc gives good control anyway. Its just a shame that there is no connector to rig the lights up now but I can just add a 4 battery holder and switch and connect the lights to that! I'm using a viper RV 12 esc by the way not the more expensive and not as good IMHO tamiya teu103! Cheers Rich

Ok managed to get the ariel holder and possiblely the drive shafts depending on length and pm! So all I need is the msc holder thats on the E tree! Cheers Rich

Solved why now! I need the 39mm drive shafts not the longer ones I have which are obviously not meant for the touring cars or the ta01 rear arms! Cheers Rich ************************************* It seems I have the ta01/ta02 Hummer rear arms and drive shafts! Cheers Rich

If anyone know which tree the parts I'm after are on can you let me know please! Maybe someone with a manual can just let me know? I'm in the UK by the way! Cheers Rich

I am looking for fornt and rear drive shafts/dogbones for the TA01 touring cars, Toyota Celica GT FOUR 58096 or Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo 58099. I also need the parts trees for the bit that holds the speed controller (E tree I think?) and the tree that has the resistor mount and ariel mount for same models if not on the same tree as speed controller mount. Not sure what tree these are on, sorry! Money waiting! I am paypal verified!1 Cheers Rich

Ok think I`m going to quit on this car now i think... The rear arms turned up today and many thanks to Dazza1 for sending them to me! However after fitting them the problem I now have is that the drive shafts/dogbones I had are too long to fit the new rear arms and the suspenson is never going to fit without some bushes that are about an inch and a half long!! How this is I have no idea!!! I placed the body over the chassis and the wheel base is now right but the rear wheels wont drive as I cant fit the dogbones! the ones I have seem about 15mm to 20mm too long?!? WHATS GOING ON?? Cheers Rich

THE CLOD LIVES! THE CLOD LIVES! LONG LIVE THE CLOD! Sorted it. It turns out that whoever owned it before me had put two motors in that ran at two different speeds on each motor. For example the motor runs faster going forward than back! Which given how the motors work in a clod was causing REAL problems and as the fronts were trying to travel at a slower speed than the rear it just locked up when on the ground. Put two silver cans in I had kicking about and it works fine! So I'll try and fine out what these two motors are and maybe put one in my ta01 when I get that working. All the motors say is POWER ROAR? Cheers Rich

Just looked at the ta01 upper rear arms and suspension someone has on ebay and they are the same as I have on now! So could it be I have ta01 upper rear arms and suspension on ta02 lower rear arms? Is that possible? Whats the difference between the two so I know the ones on ebay are correct and not confusing the issue here! Anyone have pics of the upper rear arms of both ta01 and ta02? Cheers Rich

The motors are wired right as when in the air the both travel in the same direction, and its the front set of wheels that dont move when the cap is on the ground. Its like there isn't any traction there. Cheers Rich

Hi all, I have a problem with my clod and I know its been covered before as I read it! But I've searched and I cant find it now! The problem is that the clod runs if lifted in the air but once on the ground only one set of wheels turn and hence it wont move! Checked motor and wiring and thinking gearbox maybe? I know its been solved in another post. HELP! Cheers Rich

[qu So does this affect all motors put in the clod inc the standard silver cans?!? Cheers Rich

Ah thanks for the site and the tip! I'll check out wheelspin asap! If anyone knows any more feel free to post them! Cheers Rich

Could be but I dont personally know any means to test it. If you buy a new speed controller forget the tamiya ones and have a look at these http://www.modelsport.co.uk/?CallFunction=...nufacturerID=31 I use both the RV 12 and RV 20 in my cars and these are far better I find than the Tamiya ones, auto set up, waterproof and cheaper too! If you want to just keep the lunchbox standard with the silver can motor that comes with the kit then the RV 20 is all you need. Hope this helps get your LB back on the road! Cheers Rich

Or do I just need spacers? Just 15mm further forward seems way too far for the suspension and top rear arms I have on now so I'm guessing something has to be changed somewhere.... Cheers Rich

Hi is it the tamiya speed controller that came with the kit, the teu101bk electronic speed controller? (esc) Do you not have the instructions for it as these give fault finding tips etc that came with it? Is the light flashing on it? Also while you check it may be worth just seeing if the rear wheels turn. Best way I find to check motors etc is to pull the two leads from the speed controller to the motor apart and just get any 1.5v battery like an AA and just join the motor leads to the battery and see if the wheels turn slowly. Keep the speed controller leads clear when you do this though. Cheers Rich

Hi all! Does anyone know a good website to view and buy 2.2 tyres from in the uk? I know Modelsport have a good selection although they don't normally say what size they are which I find annoying! If the site did wheel and tyres packages too that would be ace! Cheers Rich

Just had a thought about the top arms at the rear (the ones parallel to the bottom ones I need to change) Will I have to change these also if the ta 01 bottom arms swing further forward??? What about the rear suspention too, will that need altering? Cheers Rich

Thanks for all the help!! Its making sense to me now and the 20mm that the rear ta01 arms will give is what I need! Cheers Rich

Will these give me the missing 15mm? (See above) Cheers Rich

The chassis measures 275mm from centre of locking wheel nut to the other approx, the shell measures 260mm from a theretic centre of each wheel arch approx. (Theretic as I'm holding the tape in the air after cutting the wheel arches!) So the chassis is 15mm too long it seems. Cheers Rich

Ok here you go... Cant see this small diff working though tbh... Chers Rich

Unfortunately not as my problem has nothing at all to do with the body mounts. It is the physical distance between the front and rear wheels that is too long! The shell is a tamiya 1/10 scale Lancia Delta but the wheel arches are about 5 to 10mm short to fit over the wheels. This is why I thought the shorter ta02 chassis is my best bet unless someone knows better. Cheers Rich

Hi all I have a ta01 chassis that I've just rescued and I was planning on fitting a Lancia Delta body from tamiya! However after trimming the body I have realised that the wheel base of the ta01 is too long. So as I know a ta02 chassis is shorter I was wondering if I could simply buy a ta02 bathtub and fit the front and rear gearboxes to it and if this would shorten it enough for the Delta shell? I know tamiya did a Lancia Delta on the ta01 chassis years ago so I'm guessing the new Delta is shorter as its meant for a different chassis! So what are my options here? Can I shorten the chassis or do I need a whole ta02/ta03 chassis and a different body for the ta01 and if so what body will fit apart from the escort cosworth? Cheers Rich