Brooklyn Nights
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Posts posted by Brooklyn Nights
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Thanks for the info guys!
I already have a full set of bearings for the TA01 and also a spare set of all plastic gears. I also have a set of speed tuned spur gears which if I remember right are 66 tooth and 68 tooth instead of the standard 77 tooth spur and I was going to run a 21 tooth pinion gear too. I have the 69 tooth and 22 tooth spur and pinion gear setup with a 21t motor on an off road rally TA01 and it wheelspins all the wheels on dry concrete!
Yes I'm talking about the touring cap style and not the longarm buggy type. I actually didn't realise that the wheels were a different size to that of the rally cars!
Cheers
Rich
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Hi all.
Can anyone tell me how good the TA01 drivetrain is and roughly what kind of power it can take through it? Are the gears upto high speeds? (I know it has the metal gear attached to the spur gear and the metal idler gear that joins that to the diff and I already have the thicker prop shaft between the two gearboxes so I'm thinking it should be ok?) Now I'm not talking brushless here as I dont want to go down lipo road and silly money street.
I was thinking 15t or less (if possible?)Also as I've only ever bought and acquired the off road form of the TA01 chassis I'm wondering how I go about setting the dampers up for on road height? Is it just a case of different springs and putting a tube inside the damper on the piston to limit travel or is it more than that?
Cheers
Rich
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Well i plugged the battery in to see what the MSC was like. Booom! A very electrical spark sound and then a massive puff of smoke! So out came the MSC and in went a 15 turn Mtroniks ESC.
I wired the motors together to plug into the single connectors on the esc wires, and like has been said, the front wheels were getting most of the power, the truck would spin the front wheels only on the tiled floor.
I'd say your pushing your luck using a 15 turn esc if your running 2x20 turn motors! I dont expect it to last long before the bang!
Cheers
Rich
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Hi
I did this with my Clod! I used one esc and 2 standard silver cans. Now as I understood it you have to take half what the motors are turn wise for the esc. So with 2x20 turn motors you will need an esc that is a 10 turn or less because your putting twice the strain on the esc and wanting it to power 2 motors.
Cheers
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Hi!
I am looking for some led's for the tamiya tlu-01. I need 1x5mm red set, 1x5mm white set, 1x3mm red set and 1x3mm white set. Can pay by paypal, they dont have to be brand new but must be fairly cheap and in good working order. Cash waiting.
Also I have two cars for sale, click these links for more details on the King Cab and Lancia I have for sale,
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT
Cheers
Rich
**UPDATE**
I now have the lights but I now need an alloy motor mount for a TA01 chassis.
If anyone has one please let me know.
Cheers
Rich
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Tamiya did some stuff for sticking wheels to rims years back which was blue in colour but I cant for the life of me remember what it was called! Anyone know what I'm talking about and if its still available as I need some when I put a 15t in my Lunchbox that I'm building?
Cheers
Rich
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either a drill or a reamer.
reamer works the best for me since its pretty controllable as compared to a drill that could spin out of its target.
I've never slipped with a drill yet (touch wood) as I start with a very tiny drill at very low rpm and then increase drill size and speed until you get to the magic 6mm or 4mm depending on what your fitting to a shell like mirrors and spoilers etc.
Cheers
Rich
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I use my dremel! It comes in very handy when working with lexan bodyshells as I use the sanding drums to clean the cut edges too!
Cheers
Rich
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PM sent!
Cheers
Rich s
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ok, I would like to keep this to tamiyas range of paint. i hear allot of good advices of paints to use, but they are nowhere to be found where I live. Tamiyas stuff always seam to find it's way to my house
Fair enough but you can buy plastikote spray paint at just about any diy store in the UK so I'm sure its available in Sweden too!
Cheers
Rich
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I'm in the middle of my LB build and I plan to paint mine with plastikote gloss yellow! I used this for my last LB (sadly no longer have as I stupidly sold it due to an offer I couldn't refuse) and it looked fantastic! I highly recommend that you have a good look at plastikote's range of spray paints! Perfect for the abs shells and wheels too!
Shame they dont make a vast amount of colours though!
Cheers
Rich
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Hmm so I'm guessing it will be quite unstable with my 15 turn in then!
Still I'll try one and see and if not.... well there is always the sales bit on here or ebay!
Cheers
Rich
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I didn't read the article but it looks a bit old.
Note:- when referring to a locked diff this means both wheels act as if connected directly to each other an cannot rotate at different speeds especially when cornering it doesn't mean the wheels wont rotate at all
Well in the article it states that using a one way diff locks the fronts on reverse and flat spots the tyres! I know what a locked diff is and I knew that this wasn't what the article is talking about. Maybe its an old article as you say, or maybe there are different types of one way diffs?
Think as I said the best thing will be to get one and try it!
Cheers
Rich
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I'm running 1-ways in touring cars and buggies and they all back up fine. When going backwards the front wheels don't put down any power, but they are not locking up.
Although there are some basic rules on when a 1-way will work, I still believe it comes down to putting one in and seeing if you like it or not.
Thats probably the best idea to be honest, as now I'm getting confused by what the article said and people on here who have tried them and I trust the members on here more! So guess I may have to raid my bank account again....
Ah well nothing ventured nothing gained eh!
Cheers
Rich
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Is there a site for us UK based dudes?
Cheers
Rich
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What it does is turn your car into 2wd under braking / reverse, but greatly improves grip under power from the front end. With a 4wd car, when cornering, the front wheels want to rotate faster than the rears, because they travel along a different arc. The one way allows the front wheels to rotate faster, taking the strain off the 4wd system, and potentially reducing wear on the front tyres. The other advantage with a one way is that power cannot 'spin out' through the front axle when one wheel is lifted off the ground (With a car with a normal diff, if one wheel is off the ground, all the power goes through that wheel and effectively turns your car into a 2wd as only the rear wheels are gripping). With one way bearings, even if one front wheel is lifted off the ground, power will still be applied to the other front wheel without slipping. (it's a bit like having a diff lock in the front, without scrubbing a front wheel when cornering).
I've just spent quite a lot of time modifying a TT01 one way to fit in the front of my TXT-1. I have tried it this morning and it gives far better grip over a conventional diff when climbing very steep banks, and has the advantage of not locking up the front wheels when using the brakes when going downhill, which might cause the car to flip over front axle. It also takes the strain off the front propshaft when cornering on tarmac,which can be quite significant with the size of the wheels. (Basically I'm well chuffed with it
)For a rally car, i would say it really depends on what surface you run on, and how you drive. If you use brakes a lot, I wouldn't bother with one, If you tend to coast to slow up, and then use power to corner, (especially drifting), then try one. I have to say I totally disagree with the article where it says one ways are only good on high grip surfaces. This might be true for on road cars, but for off roaders being used on loose surfaces, I found it greatly enhanced grip and stability in corners compared with a standard diff, as long as you keep the power on, as when one front wheel slips, the other one does not lose power.
As the artical says, when I tried using it in a TT-01, I found it useless for racing because of the lack of front braking which caused the back end to swing round, so gave up on it and put the standard diff back in. (I'm one of the drivers who is not smooth and likes to jam on the anchors at the last moment before diving into a bend
)Hope this doesn't add further confusion, but the article is biased towards on road racers, and doesn't actually explain how a one way unit works, just the effect that it has on an on road racer, and the effect on an off roader can be completely different, especially where quite often one front wheel may be off the ground. (Rock crawler guys use locked diffs for max traction, but you wouldn't do that for a 4wd on road car as it would ruin the handling, I guess a rally car is somewhere in the middle.)
So to summarize, gives worse handling under braking, but provides a lot more front end grip and control in bends.
Hope this helps,
MadInventor
Ah I see! But as the article says it doesn't allow the car to travel backwards as it locks the fronts and that will flat spot the tyres. As I do drive in reverse a bit (j turns etc) then I dont think its going to be a lot of use to me!
Thanks for the extra info though its most appreciated! Cheers
Rich
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Here you go - It's an article from January of '97, but I think it will still be useful
Ah thanks!
So basically it turns a 4wd into a 2wd most of the time and is only really of any use to pull the car faster out of the corners .... and only on certain surfaces!
Dont think it will be much use for my TA01 rally cars then that are off road 95% of the time!
Still useful info and good to know!
Cheers
Rich
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Hi
I keep seeing people mention one way diffs as a hop up but I dont really know what these are or what they do!
What are the advantages/disadvantages of using these? I'm not really a race kind of rc member just a basher and curious!
Any info will be great!Cheers
Rich
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[uote name=pikachoo-75' date='Jun 30 2010, 06:05 PM' post='378383]
hi Brooklyn nights, i think youre right about the 240z,its been on both so should be fine.the other 2 should be fine as they have alot more "wheel arch to bonnet" space than the countach shell.the countach is actually abit lower at the mounts than the front wing surface.but maybe someone has fitted the shells you mention and could advise better.
looking at the photos of DF03RA cars they do all seem to be rally bodies with quite big tyres to fill the arches and suit higher ride height.im sure if youre after an "on road" look with the ta01 it shouldnt be impossible to get it to fit.
Well I'm going to keep the Datsun 240z as a rally car and the other 2 would be the "on road" style if they would fit! I think I'll end up buying a Datsun 240z shell and just trying it to see the fit. I just thought that someone on here would maybe have tried this already!
Could it be a first I wonder? Cheers
Rich
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AAARRRGHHH, Ive been looking at the lunch box now and the body just makes me smile more, Im back to the starting block
Well its a personal choice but.... I LOVE THE LUNCHIE!
Just looks way better IMHO Cheers
Rich
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There was a lot of alloy GPM arms and stuff for the TA01 on ebay about a week ago but none sold that I saw apart from an alloy motor mount! It was cheap too! Maybe it will be relisted?
Cheers
Rich
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Don't think Tamiya did, but HPI certainly do. Plymouth Cuda, GTO Judge, Chevy Camaro, couple of different Mustang variants too. They do a Charger designed for the Savage, so the wheelbase is too long for a normal chassis. All of the others are the standard 260mm though afaik.
Hmm like the sound of the camero and mustang shells! Any links to pics and or site to buy in the uk?
Cheers
Rich
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Also did Tamiya make any US muscule cars? Like the Dodge Viper or Charger? Would love one of those!
Cheers
Rich
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Well I have a few TA01's and want to fit the RX7, 350Z and 240Z shells to them. Now I know the Datsun 240Z was released on the DF03ra chassis and I have seen it advertised for a TT01E chassis so I just want to find out if it and the other 2, Mazda RX7 and Nissan 350Z, will fit the TA01 chassis or if it is too high at the front for the bodys to sit right?
Thanks!
)
Some Ta01 Questions....
in General discussions
Posted
[uote name=Zak001' date='Jul 13 2010, 11:10 PM' post='380043]
Ahh my bad..I thought they would just fit...thanks for that...I just new someone that used them but didn't no you needed the tower and wishbones....cool.
Oh speaking of damper towers I intend to use either a FRP rear damper tower or an alloy one from asiatees because I need to mount the body mount posts on the other side of the damper tower and these will allow me to do that and fit the shell I plan to use. Not sure if this makes a difference to the rear damper setup?
Cheers
Rich