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Posts posted by Brooklyn Nights
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I'll take £135 inc next day delivery p&p to the UK!
Cheers
Rich
******SOLD******
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Hi all
I am selling my TA01 Lancia Delta on ebay.
Have a look!
Item number is: 320527209884
Its also in the sales and wanted part on here!
Cheers
Rich
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TAMIYA LANCIA DELTA 1/10TH SCALE 4WD RALLY CAR!
RELUCTANTLY SELLING TO FUND NEW PROJECTS THAT I`M STARTING AND WILL BE ADDING MORE OF MY OLDER CARS SOON SO KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN!
TA01 4WD CHASSIS WITH FUTABA ATTACK HANDSET! FULLY WORKING AND SHELL HAS NEVER BEEN RUN ON ANY CHASSIS!!
CHASSIS HAS BEEN RUN WITH OTHER SHELL A FEW TIMES ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO AND UNTIL NOW HAS BEEN STORED AWAY SO IT HAS THE USUAL SCRATCHES ON THE BOTTOM. I HAVE FITTED A NEW MSC AND IT LOOKS IN A GOOD CONDITION BUT I FULLY RECOMMEND THAT THE FRONT AND REAR GEARBOXES ARE STRIPPED, CHECKED AND RE-GREASED AS IT HAS NOT RUN FOR 10 YEARS APART FROM THE 30 SECONDS I TESTED IT BY HOLDING IT IN THE AIR TO MAKE SURE IT WAS WORKING. IT HAS A PARMA STOCK MOTOR INCLUDED ALONG WITH ORIGINAL FUTABA RADIO GEAR SO ALL YOU WILL NEED IS A 7.2V BATTERY AND CHARGER.
SEE MORE DETAILED PICS HERE: http://s940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/b...0Delta%20TA-01/
AM HAVING SOME PROBLEMS WITH PHOTOBUCKET SO IF THE LINK ABOVE DOESN`T WORK LET ME KNOW AND I WILL EMAIL YOU THE PICS!
I AM ALWAYS AS HONEST AS I CAN BE AND IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS THEN PLEASE ASK AND I WILL REPLY AS SOON AS I CAN.
OFFERS ALSO CONSIDERED!
CAR WLL BE SENT SPECIAL DELIVERY FOR NEXT DAY SIGNED FOR DELIVERY! COST OF THIS IS AROUND £21.00 BUT I`M NOT CHARGING YOU ANY P&P!!!!!! BARGAIN!!!!!!
PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE IS NO 7.2V BATTERY OR CHARGER INCLUDED BUT THESE CAN BE PICKED UP ELSEWHERE OFF EBAY.
UK ONLY AND PAYPAL ONLY PLEASE! PLEASE PAY WITHIN 3 DAYS OF WINNING AND AS SOON AS PAYMENT IS CLEARED CAR WILL BE SENT CAR IS ALSO ON EBAY SO YOU CAN EITHER BUY IT HERE OR ON THERE! lol
THANKS FOR LOOKING!
Cheers
Rich
p.s.
Those who know me know that my buy it now price is always higher than what I'll actually take so get those offers in!
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The can was made by Yokomo.
It's probably best to hook up the motor to a ESC without a motor limit and see how fast it goes.
I have a Trinity motor here that doesn't say anywhere how many turns it is, and that turned out to be a 10 turn quintuple off-road buggy motor
that would have blown my regular racing ESC (which went to only 13 turns) if I had hooked it up to it. 
So is yokomo a good/reliable make??
I dont have a esc that is no limit so would just hooking it up to a msc do the same job?
Cheers
Rich
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Well I stripped down the motor but as I guessed there was nothing to identify it inside apart from alot of carbon dust!
So having cleaned it and put it all together again I still have no idea what it is!

It says "yokomo" on the Bell if that helps anyone???
Cheers
Rich
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Hi all
I need a ta01 front upright/wheel hub as shown below:
As you can see mine split


Prefere with screws aswell as I lost the one I had
Wheel axel not needed.Will pay and not asking for a freebie here, I`m paypal verified too
Cheers
Rich
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Not exactly sure what information you are after..
The ESC looks to be something that would be more at home in an electric RC plane, than in an RC car.. The 20A rating just doesnt seem high enough..
The Motor is anyones guess.. Looking at the photo of the end bell, I can clearly see 2 screws that hold it to the motor can, so that means that endbell can be removed for motor maintenance... The fact that it can be removed, and is fitted with standup brushes and ballraces tells me that it most likely is a modified motor, and not a 27 turn rebuildable stock motor..
The only way you could possibly find out is remove the armature (the bit inside that spins) and see if it has anything written on it...
To dismantle the motor, first up, clearly mark the endbells position in relation to the motor can (a permanent marker or scratch will do)... Then remove the 2 x brush springs (careful they dont fly off and hit you in the eye), and then slide out the brushes from the brush holder on the end bell.. Then undo the 2 screws that secure the end bell to the can a few turns, and then rotate the endbell whilst lifting slightly, and the endbell and locking ring will separate from the motor.. Then remove the armature from the motor, BUT take note that there could be washers (shims) on EACH end of the armatures shaft, so please take note of how many are on each end of the armature shaft, as they must be put back the same end when you re-assemble the motor...
If you have at look at the stack of the armature, you may see something stamped (in ink) on one of the poles...
Reassembly is the exact opposite of the dismantle procedure, but take care to realign the position of the endbell and motor can with the mark you made earlier...
Goodluck..
PS.. If you plan on using the motor, you may want to consider getting the commutator skimmed on a motor lathe, (your LHS may be able to help) and given the position of the brush springs, fit a new set of brushes...
Thanks for the info. I will attempt to strip the motor today and see what it says inside if anything!
As for the esc this is a puzzle to me too as the size of it and amp rating also seemed too small for a car so maybe your right about it being a plane one... If anyone knows for sure please let me know!

Cheers
Rich
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Forgot to say that the motor only has LRP ELECTRONIC written on it. So is it just a standard 27t motor?
Cheers
Rich
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Hi can anyone give me any info on these as they were in a car I just bought,
Motor
Esc
Motor Bel
Bith Motor and Esc Soldered togeter. Normal?
Cheers
Rich
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Any pics? Maybe what I'm looking for to start a project....
Cheers
Rich
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I used to use a little lighter fluid on some cotton wool. A quick wipe cleans it off and another clean piece of cotton wool wipes off the residue. I've never had any damage to my lexan shells doing this but then I've never left any residue on there long enough. I didn't always use a sharpie pen, often got other black markers to do the lines, but this technique seems to work on all the permanent markers I've used so far.
I actually think a rubber will work on ANY marker pen to be honest not just sharpie's.... Think its time to find some scrap lexan! If it does work than its one less chemical on the lexan!

Cheers
Rich
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In my experience most people use either shrpie pens/permanent markers or kyosho Micron tape, I know the Micron tape sells very well both on ebay and on TC and lots of people on here use it.
cheers
Here's a question....if you make a mistake with a sharpie permanent marker, would a normal pencil rubber/eraser remove the mark? I think it will as its on lexan but never tried it as yet! Anyone know?
Cheers
Rich
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Ok, just got done with my Super Clod Buster Build. Cant afford the dual ESC right now so I am using the mechanical. I am using the Futaba servo horn for the throttle with the 2 holes. When I insert the throttle rod in the first hole per the manual the servo throw at full throttle goes past point 3 on the speed controller cutting off power, when I insert the throttle rod into the second hole per the manual to reduce throw, it is now too short at full throttle and not getting enough current. My controller only has adjustment for throw on the steering servo.
Any suggestion fellas?
As for the price of the esc the tamiya one is too expensive to my mind and I used a Viper RV12 from modelsport.co.uk and ran Y leads to both motors! It is way cheaper than tamiya's teu103 and the Viper is waterproof and easier to setup in my opinion!
This is the esc I use in my Original Clod and boy is it far better than the msc! 
Cheers
Rich
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This might be an option too if you can find somewhere that sells them.
Nowhere in the UK sells them as I`ve looked!

Only available in the states it seems....
Cheers
Rich
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Sharpie's actually got a paint marker with a pretty fine tip on it. I may have to go raid my local art supply store

Cool!
Anyone know where in the UK I can get these from? Does Hobbycraft sell them???
Cheers
Rich
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Well two things apply to radio gear for me....1 It has to be a stick type as I just cant get away with those wheel things....and 2 I have to be able to buy it in the UK!
Cheers
Rich
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... prefer T's as they're always the right girth. Some of the others are too fat to fit in the hole.
Now thats a problem I bet we all wish we had!

Cheers
Rich
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I did consider the Acoms, but I'm happy I didn't buy it. It's 2.4Ghz, but I heard it's shape and size doesn't fit nearly every user, the interface is odd and the manual is unclear, there is play on the wheel of the transmitter and it feels very plactic-fantastic. It really makes sense to buy a more costly transmitter imo

Ah well as I prefere the stick type transmitter then I think the acoms would be fine for me.

Never ever had ANY interference problems with the 27mhz since I started using them as a kid in 84! So the only thing I`d be switching to 2.4ghz for would be lack of ariel!

Cheers
Rich
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I use the Tower Hobbies (made by Tactic) 2.4 controller and it's receivers use no antenna at all. Best of all, it's only about $75 US.
Well being in the UK I've looked around and the acoms 2.4ghz is anywhere from £39 to £49 so I guess thats not too bad.... Still more than the £22 I get my 27mhz for though!

Cheers
Rich
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AIIIIGH! MY WALLET!
And I'm guessing this is costly too!

Cheers
Rich
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I've started using Spektrums... NO MORE aerials

I'm used to 27mhz so what do I need with the spektrum setup? I mean I'm used to buying everything in one box so is it the same with the spektrum or is it more mix, match and hope?
I can understand why the bright coloured ariels exsist, for racing to stand out etc but I would prefere clear or none at all!

Cheers
Rich
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Spektrum SR300 - 85mm

Hmm....
so that would mean no ariel at all from the shell!
Interesting........
Cheers
Rich
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Get 2.4ghz radio gear - the receivers only have short aerial wires - one £1.50 aerial tube will probbably do 6-10 cars

I may regret asking this but....how short is short?

Cheers
Rich


Tamiya Motor Bullet Connectors....
in General discussions
Posted
Hi all
does anyone know what size the standard bullet type connectors are that are fitted to tamiya motors? I have 3 motors that need new leads as they have none to start with! (came with chassis I bought)
Cheers
Rich