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Brooklyn Nights

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Posts posted by Brooklyn Nights

  1. TAMIYA LANCIA DELTA 1/10TH SCALE 4WD RALLY CAR!

    RELUCTANTLY SELLING TO FUND NEW PROJECTS THAT I`M STARTING AND WILL BE ADDING MORE OF MY OLDER CARS SOON SO KEEP YOUR EYES OPEN!

    TA01 4WD CHASSIS WITH FUTABA ATTACK HANDSET! FULLY WORKING AND SHELL HAS NEVER BEEN RUN ON ANY CHASSIS!!

    CHASSIS HAS BEEN RUN WITH OTHER SHELL A FEW TIMES ABOUT 10 YEARS AGO AND UNTIL NOW HAS BEEN STORED AWAY SO IT HAS THE USUAL SCRATCHES ON THE BOTTOM. I HAVE FITTED A NEW MSC AND IT LOOKS IN A GOOD CONDITION BUT I FULLY RECOMMEND THAT THE FRONT AND REAR GEARBOXES ARE STRIPPED, CHECKED AND RE-GREASED AS IT HAS NOT RUN FOR 10 YEARS APART FROM THE 30 SECONDS I TESTED IT BY HOLDING IT IN THE AIR TO MAKE SURE IT WAS WORKING. IT HAS A PARMA STOCK MOTOR INCLUDED ALONG WITH ORIGINAL FUTABA RADIO GEAR SO ALL YOU WILL NEED IS A 7.2V BATTERY AND CHARGER.

    SEE MORE DETAILED PICS HERE: http://s940.photobucket.com/albums/ad245/b...0Delta%20TA-01/

    AM HAVING SOME PROBLEMS WITH PHOTOBUCKET SO IF THE LINK ABOVE DOESN`T WORK LET ME KNOW AND I WILL EMAIL YOU THE PICS!

    I AM ALWAYS AS HONEST AS I CAN BE AND IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS THEN PLEASE ASK AND I WILL REPLY AS SOON AS I CAN.

    OFFERS ALSO CONSIDERED!

    CAR WLL BE SENT SPECIAL DELIVERY FOR NEXT DAY SIGNED FOR DELIVERY! COST OF THIS IS AROUND £21.00 BUT I`M NOT CHARGING YOU ANY P&P!!!!!! BARGAIN!!!!!!

    PLEASE NOTE THAT THERE IS NO 7.2V BATTERY OR CHARGER INCLUDED BUT THESE CAN BE PICKED UP ELSEWHERE OFF EBAY.

    UK ONLY AND PAYPAL ONLY PLEASE! PLEASE PAY WITHIN 3 DAYS OF WINNING AND AS SOON AS PAYMENT IS CLEARED CAR WILL BE SENT CAR IS ALSO ON EBAY SO YOU CAN EITHER BUY IT HERE OR ON THERE! lol

    THANKS FOR LOOKING!

    Cheers

    Rich

    p.s.

    Those who know me know that my buy it now price is always higher than what I'll actually take so get those offers in! :lol:

  2. The can was made by Yokomo.

    It's probably best to hook up the motor to a ESC without a motor limit and see how fast it goes.

    I have a Trinity motor here that doesn't say anywhere how many turns it is, and that turned out to be a 10 turn quintuple off-road buggy motor :lol: that would have blown my regular racing ESC (which went to only 13 turns) if I had hooked it up to it. :P

    So is yokomo a good/reliable make??

    I dont have a esc that is no limit so would just hooking it up to a msc do the same job?

    Cheers

    Rich

  3. Not exactly sure what information you are after..

    The ESC looks to be something that would be more at home in an electric RC plane, than in an RC car.. The 20A rating just doesnt seem high enough..

    The Motor is anyones guess.. Looking at the photo of the end bell, I can clearly see 2 screws that hold it to the motor can, so that means that endbell can be removed for motor maintenance... The fact that it can be removed, and is fitted with standup brushes and ballraces tells me that it most likely is a modified motor, and not a 27 turn rebuildable stock motor..

    The only way you could possibly find out is remove the armature (the bit inside that spins) and see if it has anything written on it...

    To dismantle the motor, first up, clearly mark the endbells position in relation to the motor can (a permanent marker or scratch will do)... Then remove the 2 x brush springs (careful they dont fly off and hit you in the eye), and then slide out the brushes from the brush holder on the end bell.. Then undo the 2 screws that secure the end bell to the can a few turns, and then rotate the endbell whilst lifting slightly, and the endbell and locking ring will separate from the motor.. Then remove the armature from the motor, BUT take note that there could be washers (shims) on EACH end of the armatures shaft, so please take note of how many are on each end of the armature shaft, as they must be put back the same end when you re-assemble the motor...

    If you have at look at the stack of the armature, you may see something stamped (in ink) on one of the poles...

    Reassembly is the exact opposite of the dismantle procedure, but take care to realign the position of the endbell and motor can with the mark you made earlier...

    Goodluck..

    PS.. If you plan on using the motor, you may want to consider getting the commutator skimmed on a motor lathe, (your LHS may be able to help) and given the position of the brush springs, fit a new set of brushes...

    Thanks for the info. I will attempt to strip the motor today and see what it says inside if anything!

    As for the esc this is a puzzle to me too as the size of it and amp rating also seemed too small for a car so maybe your right about it being a plane one... If anyone knows for sure please let me know! :unsure:

    Cheers

    Rich

  4. I used to use a little lighter fluid on some cotton wool. A quick wipe cleans it off and another clean piece of cotton wool wipes off the residue. I've never had any damage to my lexan shells doing this but then I've never left any residue on there long enough. I didn't always use a sharpie pen, often got other black markers to do the lines, but this technique seems to work on all the permanent markers I've used so far.

    I actually think a rubber will work on ANY marker pen to be honest not just sharpie's.... Think its time to find some scrap lexan! If it does work than its one less chemical on the lexan! :)

    Cheers

    Rich

  5. In my experience most people use either shrpie pens/permanent markers or kyosho Micron tape, I know the Micron tape sells very well both on ebay and on TC and lots of people on here use it.

    cheers

    Here's a question....if you make a mistake with a sharpie permanent marker, would a normal pencil rubber/eraser remove the mark? I think it will as its on lexan but never tried it as yet! Anyone know?

    Cheers

    Rich

  6. Ok, just got done with my Super Clod Buster Build. Cant afford the dual ESC right now so I am using the mechanical. I am using the Futaba servo horn for the throttle with the 2 holes. When I insert the throttle rod in the first hole per the manual the servo throw at full throttle goes past point 3 on the speed controller cutting off power, when I insert the throttle rod into the second hole per the manual to reduce throw, it is now too short at full throttle and not getting enough current. My controller only has adjustment for throw on the steering servo.

    Any suggestion fellas?

    As for the price of the esc the tamiya one is too expensive to my mind and I used a Viper RV12 from modelsport.co.uk and ran Y leads to both motors! It is way cheaper than tamiya's teu103 and the Viper is waterproof and easier to setup in my opinion! :) This is the esc I use in my Original Clod and boy is it far better than the msc! :)

    Cheers

    Rich

  7. I did consider the Acoms, but I'm happy I didn't buy it. It's 2.4Ghz, but I heard it's shape and size doesn't fit nearly every user, the interface is odd and the manual is unclear, there is play on the wheel of the transmitter and it feels very plactic-fantastic. It really makes sense to buy a more costly transmitter imo :angry:

    Ah well as I prefere the stick type transmitter then I think the acoms would be fine for me. :D

    Never ever had ANY interference problems with the 27mhz since I started using them as a kid in 84! So the only thing I`d be switching to 2.4ghz for would be lack of ariel! B)

    Cheers

    Rich

  8. I've started using Spektrums... NO MORE aerials :D

    I'm used to 27mhz so what do I need with the spektrum setup? I mean I'm used to buying everything in one box so is it the same with the spektrum or is it more mix, match and hope?

    I can understand why the bright coloured ariels exsist, for racing to stand out etc but I would prefere clear or none at all! B)

    Cheers

    Rich

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