emory70
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Posts posted by emory70
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Love seeing creativity in a custom build. Bravo
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In case you weren't aware of them:
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I've never heard of using sway bars on a stock Clod. With the stock suspension arms, I can't see sway bars being of any value. Now with a 4 link, yeah.
I'd say contact Crawford Performance Engineering
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I'm all for the G Made tires. Tires should fill the fenders.
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Are they not the same as Grasshopper paddles?
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My current Clod project is gonna run dual G Made units at each corner with CPE 4 links and a sorta rere Sassy ultra lite chassis
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Diggin yer modified setup. It always irks me to see paddles on the front of a 2wd.
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Cool. If I ever get around to my "should have waited for the rere Monster Beetle" project, I've got to figure out how I want to do beadlocks on it
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That would be a perfect paint job for a monster truck
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I've used Sharpies over the years. They're OK.
Con: not really black, more like a funky purple
Pro: can clean it off with rubbing alcohol if you mess up
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I really like what you're doing here, and I hate to sound overly critical, but could you make the wheels so that the screws are installed from the rear?
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That's what I love/hate about the Willy. The body. So nice, so delicate, so not available in lexan
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I have a ww2 sitting on a shelf, waiting for inspiration. Had one a little over ten years ago. Never went off road. Thinking this will be the same way. I'm not worried about stopping wheelies, but want it to actually handle on the street.
With some judicious trimming, you can flip the wheelie bar upside down to limit wheelie height. With enough power, though, it can induce some hilarious, yet destructive shenanigans.
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I'd love to see the Gigahorse done, but oh, the work involved
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It does little to calm my rc ocd, but I try to remember that most people I'll ever see know practically nothing about vintage rc. Only folks in places like this are privy to our inadequacies
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Hmmm... I'll look into that. Thanks.
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I avoid vintage originals. I'm not one to jump houses with my rides, but I'm not kind to them either.
I hate box art. Nothing against anyone who enjoys it, it's just not my thing.
Like with real cars, quality work can make cutting up a valuable vehicle acceptable.
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Consider me intrigued
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Stock silver cans are fine. A lot of the hard core Clod builders still use them, cause
A. good brushed motors are hen's teeth nowadays
B. You can always throw more voltage at them with a good esc
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I'm planning to run RC4WD Mud Slingers in a 2.2, regulars up front and XL out back; on off the shelf beadlocks (design currently undetermined)
I haven't unboxed the brat yet, and I haven't had a MB in almost a decade.
I was really just fishing for ideas. As usual, Mad Ax delivers.
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I'm sure the body is a Pro Line also. Dig the shallow tread. No need to grind them down like a stock Clod tire for racing
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I'm trying to get a plan together to build a Monster Beetle from a re-re Brat. I'd like to run beadlocks, but there don't seem to be any front rims available.
Has anyone figured out an easy way around this? I'm thinking either a custom steering hub or a hex bar machined for bearings.
I've read a couple articles where this subject has been brought up, but in curious if any new developments have been made
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Can't wait to see some paint on this thing
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I like the simplicity of the solid link, but the 4 shock trick looks promising. I like that that setup allows the rear axle to float, but just pivot.
I've looked into trying to build a 4 link for a Lunchbox, but there just isn't enough room for a prop setup. The angle between the triangulated links is too close to vertical so the rear axle steers more than it pivots
Blackfoot options
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
I'm currently working on a plan for a "should have waited for the rerelease Monster Beetle" project from a Brat and a Sand Scorcher body.
I've got RC4WD Mud Slingers in 2.2, with regulars for the front, and XL for the rear (to make sure it looks like a 2wd). Still trying to figure out what to do for the rims.