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Pablo68

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Posts posted by Pablo68


  1. I can't actually remember which re-re I bought first.....actually this will sound strange, but my brother bought my (our) first re-re, a Monster Beetle.
    I'd had an original back in the day, he was a toddler and loved it. He bought the kit, I had the rest of the gear lying around to get it going. It was a combination of nostalgia and wanting to impress a 2 year old nephew we were besotted with.
    It did all those things.

    I also have a re-re Fox, Frog, Wild One and Blitzer Beetle.

    • Like 1

  2. I do remember a time when Radio gear was all proprietary and not easy to mix and match with.
    Also buying a new servo if you cooked one was really expensive, like just get another radio kit expensive.
    Not too many radios has channel reverse either.

    Thankfully by the early nineties this had all changed.

    • Like 1

  3. I have a Falcon, it was in perfect shape when I got it, but the plastic started cracking literally before my eyes, it got use once.
    Then stripped down.
    Then I 3D-ed up all of the bits I needed. Printed them out, fitted them. Test drive. All good now.
    Just waiting on me painting the body and decalling it.

    If you want to run it, it's best to have some kind of supply of parts. Oh yeah it drove much better than I thought it would.


  4. Ok, now THIS TIME I'm gonna just do a light clean, repair, and install of electrics on this 2nd hand buggy I bought just to get it running quickly, no need to go overboard.

    Some time later: (looks at collection of parts from completely stripped buggy).......oh well, complete clean and resto it is then......

    How does that happen?

    • Haha 1

  5. 22 hours ago, Carmine A said:

    This Thread needs a real Pro Tip every now and then.... 

    HOW MANY OF YOU HAVE STRIPPED SCREW THREADS IN PLASTIC??? 😲  (be honest!!) 

    I came up with this while watching a Video on how to 3D Print... 

    Really needed this solution, because I had just stripped the Threads on BOTH sides of my Wraith AR60 Axle!!! 😠😖  They're actually notorious for stripping Screw Holes. 

    spacer.png

    These are Brass Thread Inserts. In the U.S. you can get them here. They're inexpensive:   https://www.ebay.com/itm/292174792941 😉

    Many China Sellers have them, and I'm fairly certain that they can be had in the UK, Europe, even Australia!  

    Here's the Dimensions: spacer.png

    I Drill a 5.2-5.3mm hole in the Plastic, depending on how soft the Plastic is.  Then I take a SMALL amount of Epoxy or Gorilla Glue, and put it around the knurled area. Fit a SHORT (3mm x 4mm) Screw into the Insert, to protect the Threads...

    I will then push the insert into the Hole with Pliers or Vise Grips, (from the INSIDE if at all possible) until flush with the surface. 

    REMOVE the Screw right away, give the adhesive time to Cure.  Use like nothing ever happened!! 😁😊 

    The Inserts in my Wraith Axle has so far held up for over 5 years, on 4S Brushless Power!! 😊💯👍👍  It's really a much better than new fix, and I can recommend them in high stress areas. 

    ....... IRONICALLY, People I've talked to who have used these in 3D Printing, have said they were RUBBISH! Not so on the Plastic applications I've done.

    I've seen this done on 3D printed projects where they were melted into to object using a soldering iron.
    They do work well.
    Your method is probably better on factory produced injected plastics though.

    • Thanks 1

  6. 86 for me, but only because it was when I was working and could finally afford to buy a Tamiya buggy of my own. I went the Hornet  (should have got a Frog but hey) and really got in to the hobby. Later on (circa 87?) I bought a Monster Beetle, it just looked so awesome. Yeah, it was a pain in the ******* though, those hex drives aarrrgh, and the steering uprights were fragile too. So much time spent bouncing back and forth between home and the hobby shop.
    I really liked the look of the Fox and the Wild One but didn't have the money to just spend on nothing but RC stuff.
    I lost interest in Tamiya's offerings when the Clod Buster and Striker came out. I just didn't like the designs and was then frustrated with the hobby. I'd sold on the MB because of its issues and had a really good original Ultima stolen, leaving me with my original Hornet and a bunch of parts.
    Yeah so 86/87 would be the sweet spot for me.
     

    • Like 1

  7. When did Tamiya get weird?
    They kind of always have been. That is to say, they have their own idiosyncratic way of doing things.
    Look at their kit designs. They have produce a few kits over the years that more or less follow what other manufacturers have designed, pretty much for racing.
    The rest, the vast majority of their designs are a panoply of strange things that no other manufacturer would do/go down that route.
     

    And it gets stranger because after all that, they still produce kits that very precise and go together with a minimum of fuss and have some of the best assembly manuals in the business.

    Having lived in Japan a few years I tend to put it down to being a very Japanese company.


  8. So, you're working on a buggy around where the motor is and you drop a screw.
    Make sure you look all over your workspace, get up, move your chair, chack the floor, look under the bed etc.......BEFORE you look at the motor and see said screw stuck to the side of it.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 3

  9. This thread, it possibly sounds like a big whinge, or that I have two left hands that consist of nothing but thumbs.

    This isn't actually the case though. I just like having a place to put all these incidents/accidents for a bit of a laugh, and just to see how many others do similar or the same.

    If my RC hobby experience was anywhere near as concentrated in terms of **** ups as this thread I doubt I'd be so enthusiastic about it.


  10. Not sure if this one has been said yet but here goes.

    When using a set of pliers or snips, ensure the part of the underside of your finger, or a fleshy part of your palm is between the rear of the pivot point of same so that they get pinched when you close them really hard.
    For me, this is a tradition.

    • Haha 5

  11. This is a tough one. I have all three, though I drive the Falcon with kid gloves, even if a bunch of the parts on it I drew in 3D and printed out.
    The Falcon was better than I thought it would be. fairly composed in the conditions I drove it in, ie: don't bash it like a modern buggy.

    The Frog I really liked, it was fun to drive and handled really well for what it is. I used anti-friction grease in the front susp spring tube, that seemed to give reasonable damping. I haven't had gearbox troubles with it yet, still running the silver can.

    The Fox. I found driving the Fox to be, meh. Which to me means it must be handling well, seriously. Often the better a cars handling the less issues it gives you controlling it. It just didn't seem to have much idiosyncratic about it though. Keep in mind I've never raced any of these buggies, in fact I grew up with a Hornet.

    Honorable mention: The Wild One. Released in the same era, and handles far better than it has any right to. I love mine. Not so much a racer or even a car that is good for jumps, but it drives almost scale and is so composed over rough stuff. That reminds me, I have to re-fill the rear shocks (common prob with them I'm told) it's not as composed as it could be currently.

    Honorable honorable mention: The Hornet. Greatest of all buggies. You know it makes sense.

    • Like 5

  12. On 9/4/2020 at 3:58 PM, Pablo68 said:

    So yeah, if anyone out there has any C rings for the Fox that they aren't using, drop me a line. No idea where mine went....

    Quoting myself, the ultimate in narcissism, I found em!

    Both still on the gearbox halves I removed them from. Everything was covered in grease/schmutz so when they popped off they didn't go far.
    Nuts!

    • Like 1
    • Haha 4

  13. I'd say that it is certainly possible to get it on pace at your local club, it's a sound design and those TRF kits sure are nice to build.

    For god sake don't get one though because you'll have the Devils own job finding spares for it, and that's a big part of the equation when you race.
    I don't race, but I've talked to enough people who do to realise this.

    I remember Team Durango being the ducks nethers in high quality racing kits years ago. In a relatively short time frame though people were offloading them quite cheap cause the spares dried up. I'm not sure why, but there it is.

    • Like 1

  14. And legend has it that those two Tamiya Fox C-rings are still to this day sitting somewhere in this room wishing they could be found and put back in their rightful place but know deep down they shall only be found when they are no longer needed.....
    Actually I lost them about an hour ago.
    It seems impossible but there actually is something worse than the E-clip.

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

  15. When using superglue from the new 'control' bottle that they sell it in, give it a gentle squeeze and then watch in shock and horror as a massive amount comes flying out of the tip putting super glue all over everything you don't want it on....

    Gah!

    • Haha 4

  16. If this works,

    Here's two pics of my MB set up. I kind of fudged the hole locations to get the servo in. I 3D printed new struts for my Frog to do this.
    You can also see the strut I 3D printed for the front tower.

    Edit: Oh I forgot, you can also see TRF shocks, they make everything better.

     

    image0.jpeg

    image1.jpeg

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1

  17. 6 minutes ago, Frog Jumper said:

    uETaYyf.jpg

    Here’s a pix of my latest BF build.  CMC center steering plate v02, Kimbrough SS, vintage Parma zero-bump steer knuckles.  I’m not sure about the ball-links at the SS.  Likely vintage CRP or JG or similar.  Tamiya ball-ends at the knuckles.  Duratrax rods.

    Depending on several factors, you’ll have to play with the rod length: type of ball connectors, position on SS, position at knuckle, position of SS.

    I recommend buying cheap DuBro 1-5/8” rods and cutting them to length.  Once you get a good set-up and figure out the correct length, you can upgrade for something stronger.

    Here is a link to CMC below.  He also sells a center plate designed to reposition the ESC.

    Terry
     

    https://www.shapeways.com/shops/custommetalcreations
     

     

    Great post Frog guy.

    I also designed and printed a stiffening strut set up for the front shock tower, it also helps the handling a bit.

    • Like 3

  18. 1 hour ago, Quinster said:

    I’d like to centralise the servo and put in the same-size steering links too. Is there a particular length of steering link I need(I’m a honking just the length of the current longest one) Anyone else got a pic?  Is there a way to do this without a servo saver?  
    Last thing - is an MIP diff worth the money or should I just pop a washer in?

    Cheers all.

    #alwayswiththequestions

    #notgotacluesorry

    I'm using links that are around 45-50mm long. I'm also using Tamiya TRF  ball cup ends.

    I have an MIP ball diff and it is good, works well for a lot of people and worth the money to get rid of diff hassles. I put the original diff back in though because it gave my car trouble with juddering in the rear wheels, not exactly sure why. I also have an Ampro rear wishbone set up, so it could be something to do with that.

    • Like 2

  19. 8 minutes ago, Lee76 said:

    No worries, I only have a tablet, as it has a built in camera it’s just a case of taking a pic and hitting the plus button. I imagine it’s a bit more of a task if you have to do multiple devices.

    It's not too complicated. The two struts that you mount the servo on, you can either drill new holes in those, or you can buy 3D printed struts with the holes you need on them. Either way you end up with the servo sitting central in the chassis. You'll need two steering links the same length, the original ones won't work..

    • Like 2
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