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No Slack

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About No Slack

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  1. I faced the same problem a few years ago, oil dampers were nowhere to find. My LMS at that time came with idea to use Latrax dampers (see picture). They fit perfect but the quality is not the same as Tamiya. The price is much lower so you can buy a few spares for if you break one. I think they will fit the onroad GT01 also. (and they look good in red.) The Aeration dampers from Tamiya work best, in case of a buggy, if the fronts use the short cases, a hop-up for a hop-up. If I remeber right the GT01 uses the long dampers in front and short dampers at rear. (You must check that). The Tamiya plastic dampers (blue) are very good also.
  2. Like the stickers as Gettho Mod on your MB . My sheet arrived last Friday. The stickers are fun. Now let's see the new yellow headlight covers form the same sticker sheet .
  3. I use Sanwa too. Nice equipment but receivers are really expensive.
  4. This is a clever design. It is more a follow up on the CC01 than the official CC02. What I like is that there are no self tapping screws in the design. It uses proper nuts and bolts. The comparison video on YT is not so good because in the clip the standard CC01 uses the normal Tamiya tires while the upgrade CC01 has special tires.
  5. That was a brave attempt of quick charging!
  6. Please can you tell how this happened? I charge my NiMH's on a safety mat and store them in an old ammo box (a bit overkill but better safe than sorry).
  7. The GF01 aluminium caster c hubs 54661sound like a good upgrade for TL-01B. 8 deg. will give a huge improvement. (Indeed my suggestion was for a TL-01 onroad.)
  8. Yep, I am running the TB-01 (same as TG10?) hub carriers on my TL-01 voor many years. These carriers change the TL-01 setup from negative caster to positive caster. The car's stability improves. The hub carriers I use are made by GPM in the material delrin. Added bonus is that you can use 850 bearings so the steering is super smooth. At the rear I have the toe in rear hub carriers for better stability. You can also add the GF-01 hinge pin bridge for strenght.
  9. The settings I tried are: discharge under constant voltage with 35A using the Spintec-discharger and, after a very long cooling period, charge with 3.5A. The charge setting of 3.5A warms the battery but but my Imax B6AC V2 cuts off in time. The NiMh's take a charge now and you can use them for bashing but are not good enough for top speed. Maybe after a few cycles the batteries will again be a little better. I will let you know.
  10. My second HPI Plazma accepted a charge of 4000 mAh but is also a bit weak speedwise. But it seems both batteries come to life a little. Next cycle is now happening.
  11. I bought 10 850's last week for the spares box but 44
  12. Let me know what it is like on the dark side. The first of my HPI Plazma's took a charge of 3800 mAh. Using it in a 540 equiped car it gave the car run time but is not as fast as with my other packs. Giving full throttle from stand still caused the car to stall. By giving moderate throttle the car started moving and gained speed. Started the next cycle just now.
  13. 3D printing is the way forward. A friend used to have a 3D printing company and he operated a few scan machines in shopping malls for the public to buy their own face on a bobble head. The prints were made of paper with added binder and colour. This was an easy process. I had some ideas for figures (like modern rally drivers heads with open helmets). Sadly he sold the company so I can't experiment anymore (scale is an issue). To give you an impression how it works see here https://www.thebobbleshop.nl/huur-een-bobbleshop/ In this case you can use the heads for RC-car interiors. Full scans are aso possible. The process is a little expensive at the moment but prices drop.
  14. I shall do the same by discharcing the batteries with a Spintec discharger (set on Constant Voltage with a current of 35A) and charge the batteries with 2.5A. Let's see if they come back to life.
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