No Slack

I see it possible. The seperate light buckets from Firebrand are a good idea. The Kenwood C11 looks perfect. That is what I have in mind. I hope I can get the same result.

Thanks. This gives me a good direction how to do it. The kit will arrive Monday from Germany.

This my caliper. I use this caliper 40+ years. I use it for rc, bikes, cars etc. Mitutoyo is a top brand for measurement tools.

In the past I was a big fan of the group C class. Happy days when Jan Lammers won Le Mans in '88. But I never had a Tamiya group C chassis. So on the way, at last, is a Mercedes C11. True to Le Mans I want to add lights but is that possible? At the initial release of the C11 light buckets were not a thing so I have to find another way to add lights. Ideas how to do it are welcome.

I ordered an Injora pit mat, small size (for 1/18) and it arrived this weekend. It fits my workspace perfect. Material is silicone and it can be rolled up. On the mat is a TRX4M to give an idea of the size.

Thanks. I am now convinced that I need a pit mat.

That is a fine mat. Never seen such mat before.

At the moment I am using a (fleece) towel but there are some nice pit mats on the market. Is it wise to buy one or is the classic towel still acceptable? I like to hear your opinion.

FJ, the reaction I gave was not on your Jeep. I can see what you mean. For my daughter I made something like this. And she really liked it. And my buggies are also different but my scale trail truck must be realistic.

scale is very important. My #1 is wheels/tires. Unrealistic over large wheel/tires combos have to go. Unrealistic figures too. Strange bicycles and trailers also. My TRX4M has skinny tires and realistic figure and stowage.

What do you think: will there ever be a rerelease of the RM-01? I hope so.

I always come back to my 1993 TA-01. (and DT-02). My worst car is......?

This is my paint build up: inside Tamiya PS paint (metal), all other layers outside. First random rust, next chipping medium and after that color. Outside are Vallejo acrylic paints. Than take whatever you want to scratch the paint. Or better drive past rocks, branches, tumble over and your body gets better. Chipping medium will not desolve in water. Sorry to post this in your thread Skom25.

This is what I did with my FJ40. Metal paint on the inside and Valejo on the outside. Vallejo has a paint called chipping medium. Use that as a layer and your paint scratches with ease. And add some rust. This will be visible after each new scratch. After every drive session my car is different.

My NiMH packs work always (different brands) however two HPI packs were gone in a year. I always discharge my packs after use with a discharger to 5.4V, let the packs rest for a few hours and charge them again for storage (or use). Mostly with 2C. If not in use I cycle the packs every 2 months. Of course over the years there is some loss but it is marginal. The point is: use the packs and they will be good. And buy recently produced packs as they have a shelf live.

Thanks. I shall have close look at my DT02 to see if anything else is needed.

Is it also possible to upgrade a DT02 to DT04 c-hub? What parts do I need for this upgrade? Yesterday the shop owner of my LHS let me have a look in the box of the DT04, it looks very nice.

I have the Flysky too since a month. Track is intended for tanks but I have no clue how it works. Try to ask the man behind the Flysky channel on YouTube. He is the official tester for Flysky products. By the way: did you know that you can adjust the HW1080 G2 drag brake on the fly with a 3rd channel?

Also made a few test runs. Braking is different because of the weight of the car compared to the small motor. It's fun.

I have an eye on this charger too. It is the Neo+. Can you let me know your experience with this charger? The Neo+ should have the fan issues from the Neo solved as I read somewhere.

As mentioned earlier in this thread I miss Matteo. He made outstanding video's. He is a nice person and always willing to answer questions. I hope he can make some video's again in the future.

RC Review. I love it when talks about "modulation".

Thanks again. I have the replacement single piece outdrives and get them installed. Your video will be very helpful.

Thanks. It is the D5 that is a plastic part but no worries as I understand.

Thanks. It looks like a 2.5 mm diff screw. (Front and rear)