Static Age

http://www.fusionhobbies.com/RW-Racing-32D...ar-p/rw3200.htm The RW Racing pinions are steel, 32dp is the pitch required.

Looks like a regular small sountersink screw. Have a look on ebay, a pack of a few would be very cheap.

The Ansmann dampers are hard to beat on price. I fitted them on my Lunchbox but found the rear sprigs to be too hard, Lunchbox was cocking a rear wheel far too easily. I used the stock lunchbox springs on the Ansmann dampers, problem solved.

It is a bit of a design flaw. Tamiya addressed it by adding a R clip on The Super Hornet & Grasshopper II. You could go to the lengths of fitting a Super Hornet or Grasshopper II chassis & battery door. But its easier to do one of the suggested methods above. As a kid all of my batteries were covered in insulation tape after my Hornet had dragged them down the street or over gravel.

Changing the front to rear ratios isnt essential, but does work well. Been managing counter steer drift with both diffs locked, though now with a front one way its even better.

I think you will find it just spins around in circles.

Definately worth the time locking the rear diff, makes a big difference. That & set of decent drift tyres as mentioned above & you are away. If you decide you like drifting then you can keep modding the car to suit. Having the dampers set up very hard helps, stops body roll & makes the car break away when you flick it into corners. Some chassis can be modified to gain extra steering lock, though without proper universal shafts you may find you will throw out a dog bone when cornering with power on. I use a sport tuned motor but I know a few people with well set up cars who drift with a stock silvercan. Just fitted a front one way diff unit to my car & it really helps with the tighter drifts, alows you to handbrake turn the car too.

The last 101BK I killed was running a sport tuned motor, no heat sink & a very hot day. Other people have used 101BK with sport tuned motors & had no problems (see above). Its seems some 101Bk are stronger than others. I only had two 101BK's, when they died I replaced them with ESC's that could cope with a wider choice of motors. There is a reasonable selection of good budget ESC's availble now. See the "which ESC" thread for recomendations.

The posts are a HSP part No 08007, I got mine from ebay search "08007 - Body Post 4pcs". They are made from similar material as the Lunchbox bumper, so way stronger than the stock chrome body posts. They are slightly thicker so you have to drill the holes in the body shell out to a bigger size. I also trimmed some off of the length of the posts (the ends that protrude through the shell), easy to do with a sharp kinfe as the plastic is soft. I then ran a 3mm drill through the existing holes in the posts to bolt them to the chassis. Its alot more DIY than the stock posts but you dont have to buy the whole chrome parts set just to get new posts & I suspect that the chassis will break before the HSP posts do.

The front arms are a Team CRP upgrade part for the Futaba FX10. It alows you to convert the Hornet style single wishbone suspension to double wishbone which stops all those crazy front wheel angles when cornering or going over rough ground. I bought them from Team CRP on ebay. You dont use all of the bits in the kit on the lunchbox, you need to make your own adjustable upper arms & it takes a bit of fiddling about to get it right but its worth it. I'll try & get some better pics from the underside of the Lunchbox. A search on here should turn up more Lunchbox's/ Pumpkins with the same mod, thats how I found out about it. Edit: here's the FX10 set up on a Hornet http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...339&hl=FX10 Heres TA-Marks take on the mod http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...84&id=20319 & his explanation of how to... "It's a pretty easy fit onto the Lunchbox. Remember it was not designed for a Tamiya. You would need to trim about 2mm from each end of the pivot on the CRP lower arm so they are the same length as the Tamiya arms and don't bind. The CRP upper arm does not fit, so you need to make up an adjustable upper link. DT02 turnbuckle set is ideal for upper links and adjustable steering links. There is no where on the Lunchbox to connect the upper link to. You would need to attatch some ball nuts to the front bulkhead for the upper link. Getting the dampers to fit requires some imagination. Some connect them to the C-hub, I used the CRP mount with a modified lower damper eye. The CRP double wishbone front end does resolve all the odd camber, odd toe, and bumpsteer issues, and solves the problem of the front suspension bottoming out in reverse. It makes the Lunchbox much more predictable when landing the front wheels from a wheelie. It does steer alot better too... when the front wheels are actually touching the ground." Thanks TA-Mark. It was your showroom entry that inspired me to carry out the mod.

The Hornet is a fast buggy so it wont take much to get it going quicker. I noticed a big difference in speed in my Frog when I changed from the silvercan to a sport tuned, the run time wasnt affected to badly either. I recently changed to a Tamiya Super Stock RZ, I expected this to be slightly quicker. Its alot quicker & the difference in torque is huge, I'm really impressed with this motor & I'm tempted to buy another couple for my runners. The Hornet would go like stink with one in, though I suspect the roll overs when cornering will be much more frequent. Upgrade the pinion to a steel one, the soft alloy Tamiya pinion wont last very long with a hotter than stock motor. Edit: Every time I have used anything other than a silvercan 540 with the TEU 101BK it has resulted in the ESC failing from overheating.

Just been looking at your other threads, great stuff. You really have been busy.

Yep the gearbox is Grasshopper/Hornet/Lunchbox. But with those wheel adaptors & shock mounts I would say its come from a Grasshopper 2.

Big improvement having the double wishbone. You can actually turn at speed on tarmac now without rolling the car over, obviously the handling is still comical but its probably as good as a Lunchbox can get.

My original Lunchbox had got a bit tatty, decided to tart it up a bit. Fitted new chassis, shell, window glass & new dampers. FX10 front arm mod. I also moved the steering servo into a more central position. Front strut brace to stop chassis flex. The body mounts had snapped ages ago, found these much tuffer ones on the bay Third shock mod & oil filled dampers all round. Kept the stock rear springs to keep the back end as soft as possible. Few pics of the first run out. In the past with hot motors I found the Lunchbox was getting broken all of the time. I decided to go back to a silver can to reduce the damage. Wasnt quite enough wheelies for me so I have a vintage Yokomo motor in it now, no idea of the spec but the performance seems smilar to a sport tuned.

Thanks guys. Just satisfying my curiosity with that last question.

Thanks for the reply kaiser. The 2.4ghz set up sounds ideal for what I want in my drift car. How does it get around the frequency conflict without crystals?

I have 27mhz radio sets in my runners as thats what I had in the 1980's. I see that the 2.4ghz sets are now equally priced, whats the advantage of 2.4ghz over the old 27mhz set up?

I have a few of these in my runners http://www.etronix-rc.com/etronix-probe-12-esc.php good budget ESC. Been abusing them pretty hard & had no problems, even with 14 turn double wind motors on very hot days. I think you can buy from that site, failing that they are always available new on ebay. Usually under £30 deliverd.

I made my own discharge device out of a Tamiya lead & two 12 volt car bulbs linked together. Works treat & only cost £1.99 for the bulbs.

I have a set of those carson wheels/tyres on my Wild One. Only ran a couple of batteries with them on tramac but I'm impressed. Pretty good level of grip, though I think a brushless set up would eat them up pretty fast on tarmac. As said above the proline dirt hawg is a very tough all round tyre. I have given mine a thrashing on all sorts of surfaces & they have hardly worn at all.

I think the wheel base of the pumkin shell will be too short on the blackfoot chassis. Then again it might not be too bad, in pictures it might seem like a clod size truck.

All good advice guys, thanks. I think I can crack on & sort the problem now.

Thanks for the reply's guys. I didnt expect it would be possible to eliminate all of the play. The brass tubing suggested above gives me an idea. The biggest problem area is where steel rod that connects to the front bumper mount passes though each lower arm. Its caused the aluminium piece to wear, not surprising as its so much harder. If the alu piece & lower arm were drilled out I lined with a brass tube then this would sort alot of the play out. Remeiber the brass tube bushing that used to be supplied for mounting dampers with the old kits? some of that would be perfect, anyone know where I can buy a length. I'm gesssing its 4mm I/D?

As the title suggests. My frog (rere) has quite a bit of play in the front arms, back/forth, up/down. It has taken quite a bashing to be fair. Has anyone worked out how to remove this play or is it a case of buying new parts?