Static Age

The rere are not bead lock. The rim is the modern style so tyres require gluing.

I used Loctite 638 retaining compound, mine have not fallen out since.

PM'd.

40 this year. Much like everyone else I got into RC in the 80's.

I was referring to the rear wheels & you need tamiya part No: 53913 You can get front wheel hex adapters with built in bearings so they work on the tamiya stub axles. Not sure how good they are. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-10-Tamiya-DT-03-DT03-Aluminum-Front-Wheel-Hex-Adapters-w-Bearings-DT3010F-Red-/232197131342?hash=item3610070c4e:g:67UAAOSwPCVX3D3z

The wild one is better equipped out of the box as it has oil filled dampers. That's the mechanical difference between the two, the rest is just the looks. I own a wild one but have often thought about adding a FAV to my collection with upgraded shocks. If you prefer the look of the wild one then go for it!

Its the same diff design but the wild one has a slightly different tooth count on the gears. I'm still running on my original diff. They dont suffer as much as the frog or the monster trucks as the wild one has different gearbox casings.

Its drives really well, doesnt like the surface to be too rough so beach running is perfect. I use 300 weight oil in the shocks & the softer CRP springs, I find it handles better this way. Mines a vintage one though, the rere shocks are probably a more efficient.

You can't really lift the rear. It has stops for the trailing arms, too much angle will cause problems with the drive shafts hence the stops. I've been running a wild one for years & never had a problem with the rear end ride height.

Hi, link says back in stock March 2017, any idea when?

Although the super stock RZ is a 23t motor it can hit 30,000 rpm & has a load of torque. It's one of my favourite brushed motors. I took it back out of my wild one as it was too much.

I also use stick as that's what I learned to use back in the 80's. This set is great value & perfect for rc cars https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-code-2.4ghz-2-channel-fhss-sport-stick-combo/rc-car-products/38218 Set up couldnt be easier, turn on the TX, turn on the RX & hold the button on the RX until the light flashes.

The hornet will be very fast with that motor in it.

Glad I could help.

The dremmel method works well but takes a while. If you use a slightly larger sanding drum in a cordless drill its a lot quicker & you get a more even finish.

You can modify the vintage gear casings to accept modern motors. It's not hard, I've done it with three of my SRB's. I can understand that some people don't like to though.

You'll need the FAV or Brat rear wheels too.

This is the cheapest & easiest solution. The other option is hex adaptors which will allow you to fit a huge choice of modern wheels & tyres. Ruins the look of the vintage buggy's in my opinion.

I'm keen, PM sent.

I have all those parts. Few hours in my workshop & I'll build a couple of sets.

Nice work. I've been thinking about doing the same thing myself as I want two sets.

The rear shock mounts on the lunch box, the ones on the gearbox. They snap so easily. Those company's that make alloy versions must have sold thousands lol.

I run the 15/70 in my 3 SRB's. The acceleration is terrible with the 20/65. Stick with the 15/70 & if you need more speed upgrade the motor. Edit: Just read that you have a sports tuned in it, 15/70 all the way, I run that combo in one of mine.

48 mm & 68 mm. If you have the manual the pics on the parts list are actually 1/1 scale. I measured them regardless.

Works very well. I've never found it for sale in the UK though.