Static Age

Having looked at the chassis I dont think its worth the effort & loss of strength cutting it to fit the battery in side. I'm in agreement with the last two posts. Re arrange the 7th cell so that the pack fits in the stock battery position. Then go for a faster motor if you need to go quicker. Even a Sport Tuned on a 7 cell will make the buggy pretty fast, I have been very impressed with the LRP brushed motors recently. The GT Four Turbo range come in a variety of turns & are around £22.

Looking at pics online it seems that there would be alot of chassis chopping to do that mod, probably too much. I now know what the DT01 chassis is. A friend of mine has a mad bull, I'll have a look at it & see if I can think some ideas.

If possible I would be looking at how I could get the battery in the chassis not on it to lower the COG. If you could cut some of the chassis (without too much structural damage) to alow the battery to sit down the center it would be a help. This may be a stupid idea as i'm not familiar with that chassis.

I saw this exact one two, found a thread on a RC forum while searching. Its one of the reasons I decided on the scout.

Decided to go with the Maverick Scout. Cant give an opinion yet as no one in the UK seems to have stock. Modelsport are getting some in on April the 27th. I'll be sure to post as soon as I have had a test run.

Looks great, nice work.

My vintage LB with the CRP & other usual mods http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry405846 Even when stock the front suspension wasnt as soft as you describe. Since day one I have glued the tyres to the rims, cornering used to peel them off of the outside of the wheel. The side walls of the tyre are very soft, I found fitting foam insterts helped.

Thanks for the tips. How do I go about adding weight to the front wheels?

No I never have driven a Fox, must be the only vintage 2wd tamiya buggy that I have not had the opportunity to use.

I will no doubt get the bug to modify it, all of the RC cars in my collection are modified. Some great advice, thanks.

I'm sure there will be a little room for improvement. My friends & I are keen to have a go at the crawling so I think we might buy one each. A couple of us like to make short films so no doubt we'll get some videos online if we go for it.

Thanks for all the replies. Wheelspin models have a ton of spares for the Maverick so it looks like I might go for it. At the end of the youtube vid there is a link to a video of a Axial AX10 on the same course, interesting to get a comparison. If I do go for it I will have to change that shell, a proper truck body would look alot better.

Thanks for the advice. I'm a total newcomer to RC crawling so any advice is welcome. Here's a vid of the above truck in action

My Wild One handles way better than my Frog & my Frog has had pretty much every handling upgrade possible. I think the Wild one has a slightly longer wheel base & lower center of gravity. I would say that the Wild One is one of the best handling 2 wheel drive Tamiya buggies from that period.

Been looking at having a bash at a bit of crawling & a friend sent me this link http://www.modelsport.co.uk/maverick-scout...-products/38123 It looks to be exceptional value for money but is it any good & does any one know what the spare parts availability is like?

I second that regarding the dirt hawgs. Probably the best all round tyre & takes so long to wear a set out.

I was thinking about one of these on my old F102 runner http://www.kamtec.co.uk/index.php?page=sho...t&Itemid=53 Loads cheaper than the F1 body sets but will it fit ok?

You can put a washer over the spline shaft of the drive cup that goes into the gearbox. This shortens the distance between both drive cups & makes it alot harder to pop a shaft out. I used a 2mm thick nylon washer. Also check how much play is in the rear arms, if they are slopping all over the place it makes the Frog more prone to lobbing out the dog bones.

Clocked my Frog at 21mph the other day. Thats plenty fast enough for a Frog.

It will be fine with the stock pinion, just expect more wheelies.

The Yeah Racing dampers are quite good, they come with two sets of springs, red/blue. The red ones are very soft, I use these instead of the stock dampers on my rere Frog & the handling has greatly improved. They dont come with any oil in, if you have any left from the Hornet build you could use that.

Great story Rob. I didnt build my Striker, my dad did. He's one of the most patient people I know & he built it in the evenings over a few days, I was hovering the whole time almost bursting with excitement. I dont think I slept properly those nights of the build. The first run was carried out in a big open grass area, probably best as I had limited driving experience. With the fully charged nicad & new spiked tyres the Striker would wheelie when pulling away, I was the happiest kid alive. Some local kids had used a mower to cut a track into the local park, the Striker managed to hold its own against my mates Hornet.

Does the DT02 have a slipper clutch?

It took alot of asking but I got my folks to buy my my first RC for my birthday in 1987. They were put off by the price & I was constantly reminded how lucky I was to receive such an expensive present. I was the proud owner of a Striker, not the greatest car ever made by Tamiya but as an entry to the RC hobby it was plenty of fun & loved every minute of it. Infact I used it that much that only parts remain, probably partly to do with that fragile chassis.

The rere Frog dampers are loads stiffer then the rere Hornet ones. I think the rear axle on the Hornet will be far too stiff with Frog dampers on it, if the Hornet dampers are broken you need a stronger but equally soft damper to retain the handling.