Static Age
-
Posts
288 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Static Age
-
-
Its a vintage. Early gearbox casings, brass UJ's, resistor casing etc. The body is a rere though.
The complete 100% original cars with period radio are worth the most. As mentioned above partial cars like yours are not worth a great deal, fantastic basis for a resto/runner though. I've bought several SRB's in a similar condition & built them up/modded them into runners, I love them.
-
1
-
-
The front axles of the blitzer will be to long & I think the rear axles will be too short.
-
The dog bones don't like being at too much of an angle. Stiff or too long rear shocks cause this. Also the dog bones are a little short, you can put a washer behind the drive cup on the gearbox side or wheel axle side to help this a bit.
-
I understand the ball plates (see pic) are a different size on the rere compared to the original SRB.
Do the rere parts fit the original & if so what ball joints do I need to make the conversion?
Edit: I answered my own question by looking at the manual, I now know what ball joints are required.
Still, do the rere plates fit on the vintage arms?
-
That should solve it. I put a 50 turn motor in my nieces mardave meteor, just the right amount of speed & loads of torque.
-
Repro tyres on my SWB Willy resto.
-
7
-
-
As above, I knew the rere SB JR didn't look right.
One of my original pairs of SB JR's are getting rather cracked. I think I'll get myself some of the lovely repro's in the new year.
-
1
-
-
Very impressive. Frequently mail inside the UK takes longer than that.
-
1
-
-
3 minutes ago, RA1028 said:
I am actually from Hong Kong.
My apologies. I paid in dollars so assumed the US. Great product & very fast delivery!!
-
Mine arrived today, they look great.
I cant believe how fast they got here, Hong Kong to the UK in 5 days!!!
-
8 minutes ago, mongoose1983 said:
I'm interested!
PM'd
-
I cracked the chassis on my Brute a few years back & bought a very beat up big boss as a parts donor. They are 90% the same, the only difference if the shocks, shock towers & bumper.
These are the only battery holder parts I have
-
1
-
-
I found this lot so far. Complete set of shocks, rear shock tower & front bumper. All well used but will clean up ok. The the bumper has the most scrapes.
I just re read your post & see you are after the battery holder parts. I'll check for those tomorrow.
-
16 hours ago, mongoose1983 said:
Thanks. Hope you can find something for my Corvette there
I'll take a look this weekend & let you know. I'm fairly confident I have a shock or two.
-
I might have these parts. I'll take a look in my workshop & come back to you.
-
1
-
-
I have a DAB radio in my workshop, always have it tuned into planet rock.
-
4
-
-
Thanks guys. I used the stock upper deck as a template to make a carbon composite one. Its all ready to go now, I'll wait for nicer weather before a run.
I'm using the Tamiya GT tuned motor, what do you think is the best gearing, 65t or 70t spur?
-
1
-
-
Bought a very well used vintage super champ on the bay a few weeks ago.
When it turned up it was a lot worse than I thought, all the metal work was painted in black, gold or silver brush paint. After taking it all apart things got worse, stripped threads, wrong nuts & bots, self tappers jammed in places, one brass UJ & one steel (painted gold) & not to mention more things covered in terrible paint.
It was too far gone to make a 100% vintage resto so I decided on a custom build with aftermarket & rere parts.
As it arrived, minus the upper deck.
The dreaded paint
After paint stripping & fine wire wheel.
Front end assembled & pargu chassis at the ready. At this point I stripped the rear damper to find that the piston rod was bent in 3 places.
I manage to rescue the clear gear cover after cleaning the paint off with thinners. I was about to put the drive shafts in when I noticed a bend right next to the threaded end, how is that even possible?
Original sand blaster juniors & marui good year tyres on rough rider wheels with pargu alloy covers.
Front damper were sourced from ebay, 80mm with internal springs, I used the brass bottom mount from the original srb dampers.
Rear oil bottle & bracket are from RC channel as well as the arms that attach to the rear damper.
Rere body
Decided to make my own roof, I find the roof with the wing makes the buggy look a bit high. Polished up the plastic of the body & finished it off with a combination of rere & repro decals.
-
5
-
-
15 hours ago, mongoose1983 said:
You're right, these share the chassis with the Toyota Big Brute. And yeah, I am very curious about how the rack steering works on this one.
Now that you say that I do believe what I like the most about the Kyosho chassis is how narrow its axles are, as I am particularly turned-off by R/C vehicles with non-realistic axle lengths.
The guy I got the truck from was sure to tell me how nice the LeMans 05 motor is, "it does wheelies and it IS a heavy vehicle". I yet have to see it running though, I'm going to hook up the original MSC to some period radio gear later on this month.
By the way, what are those chassis braces you mention?
The narrow axles do give it more of a scale look. I have the thorp dog bone set up in my brute, ideal if you want to run more power but expensive to buy these days.
I fitted braces on the shock towers. Your corvette has different towers to the brute, yours are already braced in the way that they are moulded & much more substantial looking. That appears to be the only structural difference between the two models (apart from wheel & tyres).
-
Edit: Double post.
-
I have a Big Brute runner, almost identical to the high rider, its great fun!
I've added few mods like oil filled shocks and a few chassis braces. The suspension travel is a little limited due to the short wishbones, so if you corner to quick it will roll. Mind you it wont be that quick with a silver can, I have a super stock RZ in mine.
The steering mechanism is probably the worst bit, its very vague & slow, it gets the job done though.
-
1
-
-
Also used them a few times. Great quality products.
-
1
-
-
Yes the old 540 was slightly smaller. If you want to fit modern motors in a vintage SRB you need to remove little material from inside the gearbox motor mount.
After stripping the gearbox down, make a few passes in each side with a drum sander in a dremel or drill until you have removed enough to allow the new motor to fit.
Be sure to remove all metal filings before reassembly.
-
I have also acquired a slightly more complete but equally beat up Super Champ.
I'll be carrying out a similar custom resto but with a rere super champ body. I look froward to your progress pics.
-
1
-
Brushless TLO1B, Yay or Nay?
in General discussions
Posted
The esc rating does seem rather low, it is very cheap though. I look forward to hearing how this goes. I have to say I'm tempted by the price.