alfagta

hi , back in the day the meteor was a great car , it evolved quite a bit through time , the wheelbase changed and it was common for racers to have an LWB and SWB versions , a popular mod was to fit the rc10 front end for hard pack dirt and indoor racing , gear box is reasonably tough but watch that tiny spur gear as they are difficult to find , here is a pic of mine complete with circlip wheel axles ,

Hi , i dont see why not , although i think it may get pretty costly and running larger wheels and much more lift will present many issues during the build (drive shaft angles etc ) , not sure how much of the merc would be left after the conversion , perhaps a full scratch build using after market axles ,chassis rails etc may end up being more cost effective , a quick hunt around the web will turn up many such builds and all the associated issues and work arounds, i am pretty sure there is a thread on rc crawler site that had one built using txt axles in a 6wd config that worked out at a reasonable price , rc4wd spotted the market for such toys and produced an absolute beauty with a price to match , good luck and have fun

hi again ,, have you added any weight on the opposite side from the motor to balance the chassis? , the m05 v2 was produced to solve this very issue , it has its motor closer to the centre line , i have 45g fitted opposite the motor and the torque steer and brake wander vanished , you can also offset the battery to even things up, until this is done all the suspension tunning in the world wont help, the 3 racing shocks come with 25wt oil in them , way too soft , the 37.5 is better , but this all depends on running surface , there is no right and wrong single setting , just whats right or wrong for the driver and track , be aware that the low ride height suggested by so many is actually a very bad idea on anything other than purpose made carpet or tarmac tracks , the damper shoots through its travel as soon as you start turning , the tyres get pushed beyond there limits and understeer ensues ( chassis roll = grip!!!) , also if the car hits even a tiny bump while turning there is not enough suspension travel to absorbe it and the tyre must momentarily lose contact with the surface , its a simple formula , fit everything to the car, balance the chassis , test drive and adjust( a little at a time) on chosen surface with chosen tyres taking notes , the correct way to go will soon become apparent , have fun

hi , the m05 steering bell cranks can bind , try loosening the pivot screws BA2 a quarter turn and see if the steering centres more readily , its also worth fitting bearings to replace bushings BA19 and checking that step screws BA11 are not too tight , its all from step 10 in the manual , the servo horn being off centre shouldnt cause any issues other than a quick trim and should not be needing re-trimmed all the time , it sounds to me like one of the pivots is binding up the steering . once its all correct the m05 sould have precise and agile handling that runs true in a straight line . have fun

the 19 tooth will be fine , try also turning the timing on the motor toward the + , this will develope a touch more power at higher revs , also if the esc has timing adjust try winding that up a bit too ,

the front toe out may be too much , when you come off power the front wheels toe out due to the slight braking force from the motor , this will cause the car to wander around like you describe , take it back to no toe to calm the car , then add a tiny bit at a time to get the desired aggression , i found the 3 racing springs that come with the dampers are a touch soft , try the 53163 spring set , red or yellow on the rear and blue for the front , dont go too soft on the rear as when you apply throttle the weight shift lifts the inside front wheel and it spins up killing the tyres , as mentioned the most important thing to do is tighten up the diff action with aw grease , and some 3 degree rear toe in uprights,, try the kit springs too on the 3racing dampers , you never know they may be a bit better .

hi, try adjusting the front toe , start at parallel then work out to around 3 degree toe out , get some toe in rear uprights , go straight to 3 degree items , they are cheap and readily available , blue springs,' the tamiya items' help stabilise the car , check out Grahoo's site for how to get the very best from m05 http://www.grahoo.com/ , add some tamiya AW silver grease to the diff , it helps keep the car tracking straight during off power turn in and braking as well as acceleration , sweep mini tyres are more consistent than the tamiya tyres and a lot cheaper , they have become the racing standard for the m chassis , have fun

hi fella's , thats a shame you didnt get the bonus parts , the kits bought from Germany still come with the bonus parts as a regular at my workshop just got one slotcarracing on ebay for his kid and was all present and correct sealed in the cellophane , must be a Japan thing. i use brass and steel pinions , they are both far harder than the kit alloy item but the kit item is still good for quite a few runs before its shot, just for reference steel pinions can be softer than brass and vice versa , depends on the material , i have a brass pinion from an old tamiya kit that is over 20 years old and has done thousands of runs and is still fine , i am using the maverick brass items at the moment , over 100 runs and it still looks new , it also runs way quieter than the stock alu item ,, dont use 32 pitch as it will damage the spur gear and the gear shaft and motor bearings due to the poor mesh causing bad vibrations , the lightweight gear shafts are worth it if you plan on racing in the tamiya fighter cup where the motors are controlled hand out types and thus any advantage may be the difference in getting the win , if you want to use CVD drive shafts just fit some 3 racing or tamiya tt01 outdrives , they are a direct fit in the kit diff and cost only a few pounds and last for years, having used both the kit plastic and steel cvd type i found the plastic was actually better on high grip grass track , but for the lowish cost of the 3 racing items it wont break the bank , an essential upgrade IMO is some alloy front uprights , the kit ones are very soft and rubbery for durability but, this causes issues of grip roll when you run hotter motors , the front end just bites too hard on turn in with the plastic items , not an issue on hard pack dirt though .

yip, spot on , LED (light emitting diode ) the clue is in the name , diode's are polar and only allow flow in one direction ;-)

hi, i would try all the new batch ones you got , see if any more are bad , once thats done get in touch with HK via live chat and tell them which warehouse you got it/them from , have the order number handy , explain the issue and ask for replacements , they will instruct you how to return stuff , as they are quite a huge company things take a while to go through the correct channels , if its only one rx thats bad then personally i would right it off and order a new one , good luck

just a couple of 400 motors and hatches for the HL tiger 1

new part for the tiger , taigen metal reinforced lower hull

hi all, asking a favour the other day i emailed hobbyking to request they make a hard case LiFepo4 battery for tamiya chassis with rounded compartments and tble02's / 104bk/105bk esc's , Rob at HK responded almost immediately and very positively , it would be great if even a couple of other members sent in the same request as it would be so much better for newbs and old hacks alike to know that we dont have to choose between lipo and a new esc/ lipo alarm or old and fickle ni-mh ,

i use cycle tracker gps with the sensitivity as tight as it will go , 5m if i remember correctly , this gives fairly accurate mph even on short street runs , also it doesnt seem to use any data allowance so is in effect free ( trust the Scotsman to make that point )

way back before brushless i used to remove the armatures and run them in yokomo budget rebuildable cans with one soft and one medium brush , it would kill the com pretty quick but they could fly for a 27t , these days i have a large bag full of them as the days of brushes are pretty much over for me , thankfully

yip , superb combo, and the esc will take almost any motor at a later date should you wish for more speed , you will also have a large choice of firmware options with the pc connection , and near infinite adjustment of the esc should you find its getting too hot just turn the timing and boost down until you have a happy setting .

when soldering a deans connector , attach the opposing plug to the connector prior to heating to stop the pins going out of alignment while heating ;-)

keep you eye on the skyrc system , even with the little motor they are still quite fast in lighter cars such as 2wd buggies , way quicker than a silver can brushed set up .

you may balk at them but the hobbyking 120a esc ,http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56464__Hobbyking_174_X_Car_120A_Brushless_Car_ESC_sensored_sensorless_UK_Warehouse_.html , are amazing , grab the usb programmer , http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56469__USB_Programming_Adapter_for_Hobbyking_X_Car_120A_60A_ESC_UK_Warehouse_.html ,with it and you can take your pick of motors to end up with a system that can litterally rip the tyres off a car or be a tame smooth runner , i have quite a few (7)of them now and they have taken endless abuse for over a year without the slightest blip , its a shame they are not waterproof but i run them in the wet with tight fitting body cars such as my 2wd buggies , you could have a full system for around £50 that smokes castle sidewinders etc , worth considering

whats your budget and , do you need it to be waterproof ?

you may find the esc wont be happy with a 9.5 , for off road , especially grass , a 13.5 is about as low a wind as i would go for with a 60a , up it too an 80a or higher and you will be fine , you could give it a go as hobbywing , yeah racing and a few others are a touch under spec'ed , my yeah racing 60 a handled an 8.5 in my team c 2wd buggy on a cool day but shut down in mid summer.

having run a 7.5 ( around 5150 kv) and 120a esc in my holiday buggy i found it was fine , abviously , as mentioned , ball races, and some oil filled dampers with a steel or brass pinion and not forgetting a battery that can happily supply the esc with what it needs and its all good, the main thing that happened was ,' it was super quick ' , way too quick as if i had crashed i think it would have disintegrated , i did run the punch setting at its second to lowest as the front end was constantly in the air and it helps keep the temps down (not that it got hot , just warm) , i also used some well scrubbed tyres as too much grip may have caused huge grip rolls or even a damaged gear box , have fun

the dt03 doesn't require hard case packs due to the well protected monocoque chassis so no worries there , charge it at half 'C' (2.1A) for the first 2 or 3 charges , always do this if the pack is stored for more than a month without use , beyond that they have been bullet proof , absolutely no swelling , no memory effect regardless of repeated partial discharge and recharge and the life packs also run cooler than lipo when run with hotter set ups or charged at high rates , i love em and as i mentioned i am hunting for hard case versions for use in rounded battery compartments . if you do notice the tiny reduction in top speed just run higher gearing , the voltage reduction means everything in the car runs cooler so gearing up isnt an issue . enjoy

if you go for hobby king for batteries , when the pack/s arrive there is a warranty code on the side of them , go to your HK account and find the order in your account , next to it you need to input the code for the battery or it wont be warrantied , gregm makes a worthy point about the voltage reduction over lipo but with nimh only around 1/3 of usable capacity is above LiFe output , the other 2/3 are at the same or below what life can output through 90% of capacity ,my dt-03 manages to wheely around with 13.5 and 19t pinion with ease ,, if you do want the oomph of lipo , an alarm only costs a few dollars and most can be connected to the lipo balance lead so no soldering or messing about is required , i personally am rather taken with life technology , i plan on getting some hard case life packs for my m chassis cars too , especially the FWD 03/05 kits benefit from reduced voltage and turning up the timing on the motor to reduce wheel spin but increase top speed and all with lower temps , less can sometimes be more . have fun with whatever you choose

hi , try hobbyking , they have a vast selection , if you want one to fit the terrible tamiya hole in m chassis and older cars then it might have to be a tamiya life battery , but if its just for the dt03 you can get 2s1p or 2s2p 4200 mah for peanuts , i use them in my dt-03 and HL tiger 1 tank , very robust with no memory effect that lipo can suffer from , hi Percymon, i was of the same opinion , i love lipo, however life does seem more robust when mistreated , the metal cells tamiya use are far safer for air shipping than any soft cell lipo and can stand up better to partial discharging and recharging that a young kid may be likely to give them , all in i find it is the technology we should have adopted before li-po as if it had the same surge in take up we would by now have a safer and easier to ship battery tech .