alfagta

hi fella's, the trick to avoiding import duty is to use the cheapest slowest postage option, as soon as you use the express shipping option it goes via a large courier company that is tied directly to customs and excise , ups for instance have customs officers from many countries working at their depots , if you use the cheaper option you wont get stung , 17 years of buying from hong kong including stella and not a single charge for import as i am willing to wait an extra 5-10 days , after all the kit is going to be exactly the same .

xerun 120a and 3.5t motor, add a little boost and turbo and watch it drive away from the castle system,

took the M04 EL with hobbyking x car 60a and 13.5 trackstar motor with lots of boost and turbo out ,, drove the tyres off it, literately

'C' = total capacity ,for 3000mah capacity , 1/4c would be 750mah charge rate ,1/2 c would be 1500mah etc

charge them slowly at first, about 1/4 c or less , then discharge them as hard as you can by running them in a car on a large open space at full throttle to keep the load high is best , leave them to cool over night and then recharge at about 1/2 c and discharge again by running in the same way , this keeps the possibility of adding any memory to the discharge cycle to a minimum and 'wakes up' the battery chemistry , you should then be good to charge up to 1 c , use an esc such as a tamiya teu 101 or similar and run the packs at first until the esc does the low voltage stutter , always let them cool overnight as the core temp can take up to 8 hours to settle . if you get false peaks while charging reduce the charge rate by half and restart the charger hope this helps

my opinion ,,dont waste your cash , castle have a great warranty but you must ship back to the US for them to inspect any faulty items , if your esc fails then you will be waiting many weeks for a replacement , i have had a mamba max and sidewinders and they all failed running 2s lipo , i spent over £50 returning stuff to them, they always honoured the warranty and were very helpful but i would rather NOT pay a premium just for a company to do something they must do anyway, its up to you as its your money , i just couldnt see why they are so expensive , hobbywing are far more reliable and lots cheaper . choose carefully

take a peak here , think its what you are looking for, http://www.oople.com...?t=11674&page=3 , as far as i can tell a tamiya 'double' slipper is the same as most other slipper clutches , for the cost i would have expected far more but hey, all the db01r guys say it works . just noticed that one of the center belt pulleys appears to not actually be keyed on the layshaft so it can move independently of the other pulley , in theory this will give a little extra slip to the rear belt ,

i will 3rd this, if you plan to stay with rc over many years then this charger will serve well , its amazing how useful a multi purpose charger can be , from the neighbours flat car battery to a mates mp3 player and my drill when the charger for that packed in ,you never know when it will come in useful . not to mention how much longer batteries last when you can recondition them .

go for a waterproof servo , a wet £50 servo is still a dead servo , you could always use plastidip or similar to waterproof your chosen item , i think the drive shafts you linked to are the half shafts , i could be wrong but i think it is the prop shafts that are the weak point , http://www.fusionhobbies.com/product/54113-tamiya-cr-01-carbon-steel-prop-shaft-95mm , i have used many esc's for crawling , from the tamiya teu101 to a novak crawler , truth be told you will learn how to use whatever you chose , drag brakes are nice but i also enjoyed actually having to use the brake manually , do go for a waterproof item with lipo cut off ,

no, thats the touring version which is fine for very clean outdoor tracks and indoor tracks , try and find the rally version as it has a belt tunnel to protect the drive belt as even a small stone can snap it and ruin your fun

you mean the XV01? , i buy most of my cars and parts from RC Mart http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-xv01-chassis-offroad-58526-p-35317.html?cPath=420_1167, and Stella models http://www.stellamodels.com.hk/58558-01tc-chassis-p-7008.html , i have linked to the pro version as it has some nice hop ups in the kit and since you plan to use the shelby it makes sense to get the superior chassis and save on the body, a word on the shell , its a 200mm wide shell and most electric 1/10 cars are 190mm , but, if you get the +6mm off set wheels and tyres from hpi it will all fit nicely and give better handling due to the increase in track width , have fun!

no problem , welcome to TC forums by the way, hope you find it useful, if i was buying a new on road chassis (that also goes off road very well too) it would have to be the XV01 , if you prefer the second hand rout then the old TA02 was and still is a great car for thrashing about in the street , if you plan on going crazy with the power then the XV01 is the winner , you could also consider the TB03 chassis which can be picked up very cheaply now , it all depends on application and budget , if you plan on running the car in dirt or places where there is a lot of debris avoid belt drive cars unless they have a sealed belt tunnel or you will start to go through a lot of belts and pulleys , if the car is only going to be used in a clean environment then take a look at the Sakura XI http://www.rcmart.com/blog/2013/05/3racing-sakura-xi-sport-comming/ , i think its going to be a very good chassis at a killer price ,

i dont know you tell me??, i was guessing you miss typed as 'A' is next to 'S' on your keyboard, either way it will fit if you get offset wheels with it .

did you mean the TA01 ? hpi do the shelby body http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=tu&partNo=17508 , add some hpi offset wheels and have fun

i think it would have to be made in the far east if they are going to re re it , to make it in america i think the RRP would be around $800 , i wouldnt be interested at that price and if it is going to be a LTD ED without spares back up for many years then its a big no no, i do really really want one but only if i can thrash the butt off it , then again they may be using the image to promote the brand as its a famous car that changed the game .

my brca membership lapsed over a year ago , i really should get it renewed but i only drive my cars on private land now so its really not necessary for me at the moment , however, there is a nice big park right next to my new workshop that is begging for use with the fast 2wd buggies so i will have to at some point , especially considering over a kilo of rc car doing over 50mph could do some serious damage

go with harry, purcy is a bit limited , if you race at several venues then you never know what system they will have and may end up with a club hand out brick

i twist my ball cups off frequently ( now that does sound WRONG )without any adverse effects ,it shows you how to do it in most tamiya manuals , you can get special pliers for the task too

i will add that its not just narrow band interference , its the very broad noise spectrum that causes most interference , the fact that a 2.4ghz system actually allows a car to operate randomly (glitch) is a concern though as the rx should go into fail safe mode the second it experiences this 'noise' , my dx3r with sr3100 rx's goes into fail safe at the end of my street where there is a massive mains distribution transformer , at this point i need to be a foot or closer to the car for it to operate. it could be cables under the ground that are causing stuart1336 's issues , since the bind is at a certain set of frequencies it can be worth rebinding at the location of the interference so that the radio finds a clear 'uninterrupted 'frequency. just a thought i will add i am not an expert in such things!

that would be cool, it is rather oddly over built in the drive line, i do remember kyosho cars having very soft metal dogbones and cups in the past , the stub axles always seemed to bend easily compared with others too , although , i havent noticed any of these issues with the sand master yet , look forward to seeing any mods you come up with ,

yip , plus the hobbywing 'usb link software' which is a free download from the HW site , basically with the dongle you will turn your pc into your program card, have fun

hi shaggy, best advice for the hobbywing systems is to buy the lcd prog box and use the pc software suite , an identical case and circuit doesn't necessarily mean it has the same firmware installed , hobywing v2.1 60a and 120a esc's being an example , they look the same but the firmware installed is not and the 120a wont work with the LED prog card but does work with the LCD prog box , spend the few pounds/dollars and get the LCD or even the usb dongle from hobby king , they open up a whole new world of programming options if you have any HW speedo from the V1.2 onwards . if you do find it a hassle to have all the different programming devices do a bit of research and choose a brand then stick with it , i only use hobby wing and certain hobby king esc's and they can all be adjusted with the LCD prog box , simple and easy to use , i believe that some turnigy esc's also work fine with the LCD box but only some! have fun,

they use 3 'O' rings , the only point that causes any concern is the cable grommet , add a little sealant to it to be on the safe side , they run fine fully submerged (better than £35 waterproofed hitec's do!) ,you can also open them up and add more silicone grease to the top bearing to add an extra seal , they have dual bearings so wont go all sloppy any time soon, for £4 they are fine , there are quite a few water resistant servo's out there but not at this price , buy 2 or 3 and if you do kill one , slap in another , oh yeah , they are very fast for the price too!!

i am using 3 of these at the moment,http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__28971__H_King_High_Torque_Waterproof_Analog_Servo_40g_4_5kg_cm_0_13s_60.html , so far they have stood up very well to all kinds of abuse including 40mph+ crashes into immovable objects, use a servo saver with them , for the cost they are superb.

hi fella's, any difference less than 0.1v can be ignored , 0.04v is a tiny variance and well within the norm for even well matched lipo cells..