alfagta

check the timing on the motor too , try taking it down to 20 degrees from the 30 degree 'zero' point on the end bell , take the punch down to its minimum and the ESC timing to a setting below the default , double check that the throttle on the transmitter is set to rev and then recalibrate , let us know how you get on with it

that is strange , i wonder if your gearbox isn't seated right down on the chassis properly perhaps? , i just checked mine again and span it up to full throttle with the 10.5 and its the same right through the full suspension stroke , definitely worth having a good poke about to see if anything else is amiss . .

another couple of tips , if its very tight and the pullstart is taking a lot of pull (which can damage the pull start and one way bearing) it can be a good move to undo the glow plug by 1/4 turn until it fires ,then re-tighten , put the car on a brick or similar during break in as the wheels must be free to turn , if you dont you risk melting the spur gear if its plastic , check all the engine mount bolts while the engine is hot as they can work loose due to vibration and metal expansion , it can be worth doing the same with the head bolts and clutch retaining bolt too, have a cup of water handy and drip water on the top of the head every minute or so, it should take 3-5 seconds to evaporate , any less and its too hot , richen the mixture until you get a good steam of oil smoke from the exhaust and you get it to the 3-5 second window, dont run it in on a nice patio or similar or you will stain it with oil, have fun

you could also take a look at the eXtreme 605 , it does require a 12v supply but they are cheap and readily available , i have been using one for many years and it has always been perfect, if the cells are in good shape it balance charges rapidly , if they are not such great cells it takes as long as is needed to balance charge them , it has been the best charger i have ever owned and for the cost is well worth a look, the turnigy accucel (also requires a 12v supply) is really well regarded too , dont be put off by the separate power supply as it allows you to use the charger in your car should you wish to take a drive to a nice spot for a prolonged rc session and reduces the cost should you ever have a failure of the charger or power supply. the thunder ac6 does look like good value too , but, personally i still have a dislike of any integrated charger /power supply having had 2 fail me in the past. have fun shopping and even more fun with LiPo

OSR , please do return the charger you bought , tell the guys at the LHS that it is essential for your's and your families safety that you have a balance charger , the imax b6 is the most copied charger out there and so i will suggest that you are very cautious with purchasing one, the real ones are great , some of the copies are great but some are plain dangerous , its impossible to spot the difference from the outside , perhaps one of the guys on TC forums that have one could point you in the direction of where they got theirs so you know its a goody .

my kit is stock apart from the motor esc system and damper seal kit , just had a double check and my rear shocks are at full extension on or off the car, took one off to see and its still the same length , the only limiting factor is ,when i have the damper ride height adjusters wound down to the 5mm point they do hit part of the rear roll cage mounting point that lies directly behind the dampers when viewed from the side , apart from this they give full travel . i have been having a look around to see if there was a change to the dampers during production as my kit is quite new but i cant find anything that indicates a change .

agreed, the white shocks really do look fantastic with the blue RR body.

google search and see if anyone has them ,not sure which rb you have but, if its quite an old car after market hop ups will be fairly thin on the ground , kyosho plastic gears are quite robust, check the gear mesh and thread lock the motor mounts and make sure the motor doesnt get too lean or the clutch bell pinion will get too hot and melt the spur gear teeth , its a common problem as a lot of guys think you just add fuel and go when actually the first tank is for getting the lean correct with the carb needles and this must be done every time you take it out as the barometric air pressure changes from day to day so what was fine one day is not fine the next. good luck with the hunt for metal gears.

buy a can of switch cleaner , clean all battery contacts and power switch , if the pots dont work after it powers up spray them out too and squirt in a few drips of wd40 or gt85 after cleaning , done it many times and even got an old futaba attack 4 that had been left outside for an entire winter back to life doing the same ,

letting the grass dry makes it easier to brush off but i always give the drive shafts ,hinge pins and any metal parts that aren't stainless a little squirt of gt85 , if you let it dry then clean it you will find a bit of rust ,

that looks real nice, tamiya are about to release white oil filled cva shocks too so you can improve the handling and keep the cool white dampers

get the parts numbers from the manual and get a kyosho dealer to order them , manual , http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/31092_gp_ultimarb_sports_m.pdf

it certainly would, they are nice and cheap , would have bought some but the postage from Germany was over £10 for something that weighs only a few grams , considering how many dt02 cars there are in the uk i was considering getting someone to make me 100 or so and sell them on here and the bay of doom , would be great if fusion got some in stock ,

thanks for the updates GregM, nice kingpin mod, will give it a go, i still dont have any issues with my drive shafts , no binding at all , they do run close to the cup edges but there is still about 0.5mm clear of the chamfered edges of the cups at full droop and full compression and they are always well engaged with the cups and its all pretty smooth considering the cost of the car , last ten runs have been done with a 10.5t x-car motor and 60a x-car esc and it has been hammered, after adding the polythene bag to all the ball studs and adding two screws and nuts to the annoying body panels the car has been flawless ,

just a turnigy 2 in 1 LCD program box for me , mighty handy as i can now adjust the timing slope and boost on my x car esc's while im out playing

yeah, i have spoken to weldtite about it and they say that its absolutely fine and there is no ill effects from using it, i tried it in one of my own bikes once and the hub seals were all trashed within 6 months and the grease had went orange , opened them up and all the balls and race surfaces were pitted , £300 worth of hubs went in the bin, lots of headset bearings use a hard abs plastic seal and i truly couldnt count how many have gone brittle and came apart from that awful grease , castrol LM works fine with none of the effects mentioned , 25 year old hubs on the original bearings and seals , still silky smooth and only been serviced twice using LM , the red finish line stuff is the best i have found for high speed and high impact low speed bearings and super water proof as it sticks so well ,

ebay, hobbyking , both cheap and fast, cant believe you didnt get the leads included, typical of the big brands! , my £20 extreme 605 came with 12 different leads ,

man, 30yrsL8r , you are just not having any good luck with esc's from HK at all, i am not gonna post any more HK links on here to save you any more hassle ,

depends on what the spur is made of i suppose , but all that melted plastic around the spur is a dead give away that heat played a major part in its failure, stripped teeth tend to fly off ,, maybe another part of the drive line got a bit bound up with debris or over tight belts and drove the load up and thus the temps , i would be inspecting the whole car for any and all other damage that may have occurred or been the cause , good luck tracking it down,

you can get large syringes up to 200ml from your local cycle shop, just ask for a large brake bleeding syringe , you can also get them from pharmacists (much cheaper) but expect a few questions . for applying i use a small stiff bristle paint brush with a tapered handle , drill a hole in the grease tub just big enough to allow the brush to pass half way through and jam the handle in the hole , not so handy for the tool box but great on the bench.

what were the motor temps? hot motor = hot pinion = melted spur gear, i have had the same issue running too high a gear on one of my mardave cobra's running way too much timing advance on a trinity motor.

stay away from the weldtite TF2 grease, i cant tell you how many ruined bearings and bearing seals i have seen in my 20+ years as a bike mechanic from unsuspecting customers who have usd that stuff, its horrid stuff that goes hard and cakes up far too easily , the ceramic grease above is superb and the red teflon grease from the finish line are both far superior and safe for plastics ,

duct tape

thought you might find this as amusing as i did , rcmini just posted this pic on facebook , asking if it will be ok to run it at their evening race meet , those crazy racers