alfagta

it does have a few improvements , more robust diff cases with crown gear mounting screws that run all the way through , sealed oil filled diff option soon??, the gear boxes are now horizontally split for easier access , looking at the parts trees the spur and pinion cover is a separate item for faster access , it has way more steering angle and the motor cowl is a two piece item , from the look of it the top scoop/ram comes off then a fan is fitted between the scoop and the X brace under scoop , sealed radio box by the look of it too,, for all it still has some duffness in it I think that this chassis may have some scope to be a far better car than the TT01.

yip , you can see both cans through the top of the chassis ,guessing they both drive a single gear/transfer box, all that weight high up may pose some stability issues though.

from what I can see on the TT02 , it now has far greater steering angle , easy access diffs with horizontal split diff gear boxes , the diffs now have screws that run right through the case (no more crown gear coming loose ) , the air ram over the motor would appear to be a fan fitting point ,are Tamiya aiming this chassis more at the beginner drift market??? the drive line is still a pile of plastic though and still no C hubs ,there are lots of new nooks and crannies for crud to build up in ,

it would appear that Tamiya has successfully managed to use even more plastic on the tt02 , , at least it has a sealed radio box now but whats that air ram over the motor all about??? and those front hubs look like they will last,,,,,,about 2 seconds but, I wont prejudge until I have had a go with one.

try this shaggy , http://www.hobbyking...7X656905X10.pdf , the trackstar systems use different firmware to ezrun systems , the turnigy esc's that are not trackstar may work with ezrun , all the trackstar systems set up the same way which is similar to castle esc's , switch on while holding throttle at full.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=53404

blazing blazer with real cast steel axles and steel chassis , real working V8 engine with aluminium body shell and real living midget driver that eats tiny teeny cheese burgers and ........

yes the 35 is quite a bit slower ,you could go down to a hackmoto or ansmann clash 28t motor , it doesnt sound much i know but it does produce a good amount of torque ,more than a silver can and only loses a couple of hundred rpm , i use one in one of my crawlers with a teu101 esc and the esc runs notably cooler and there is more torque on tap but still does about 8-10mph , super cheap too.

I little more reasonable but doesn't say if its in stock or an archive listing , http://www.etamiya.c...3rs-p-6291.html ah its unavailable too

nah , this is expensive http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/tamiya-ferrari-f1-312-t3-model-number-58011-year-1979-and-49191-/130841778417?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item1e76c718f1

it aint cheap but , http://vintage-tamiyaparts.com/CMS/product_info.php?cPath=106&products_id=989&osCsid=6eol420ll3livs92okdgkljd62

I notice in the how to you still have to have use toe out static setting , the blitzers handle better with toe in static setting , also the blitzer uses quite small knuckles so, if you are planning on doing the spacer and raised ball stud mod you may want to use a nut on the underside of the knuckle arm to stop the ball stud being torn out when under duress .

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tamiya-58070-Midnight-Pumpkin-Decal-Sticker-9495089-NEW-/310440272014?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4847aea08e ,or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-TAMIYA-ORIGINAL-1987-NOS-MIDNIGHT-PUMPKIN-MIXED-PARTS-LOT-/200885958347?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2ec5bc76cb ,or http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TAMIYA-58070-MIDNIGHT-PUMPKIN-ORIGINAL-Decals-NIP-/181060392655?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item2a280a56cf , hope these help, best regs

no probs , might be worth posting a pic of you chosen solution for future blitzer-ites , best regs,

hi, if you are getting positive bump steer from the steering tie rods being way longer than the suspension arms then the trick is to raise the ball studs on the steering knuckles ,you may be able to flip the knuckles if they are non symmetrical , I don't have a blitzer but a lot of Tamiya cars have the same issue , I use m3x15 grub screws and ball nuts with a stack of spacers and you should find the issue is fixed, just make sure the tie rods don't fowl the chassis when at full lock and compression .here is a pic of how I sorted the bump steer on one of my m03's with tb02 kingpin ball studs and a 3mm spacer

hi Lee, never dealt with them but please do keep us informed of how things go, I have been eyeing up the Porsche and jag body for a while , good luck and hope you get your parts , a refund rarely makes up for the disappointment of not getting an order,

Tamiya blog are in for the trade/press days ! http://tamiyablog.com/2013/01/tamiyablog-com-reporting-tamiya-news-from-spielwarenmesse-international-toy-fair-nurnberg-2013/ , good stuff , rubs hands together in anticipation

try here , http://www.blackholesun.fr/RC_Tamiya_OnRoad_Chassis_US.php ,

surely the re re issue has improved the situation for the vintage collectors as now the non vintage collector can pick up a rere thus reducing the prices that vintage collectors have to pay. the only reason I can see for anyone having issue with Tamiya's rere policy is that it has reduced the monetary value of the originals and also that Tamiya have run out of ideas and inspiration to produce some of the truly scale looking cars they are famous for .

I think its just diagonal candy pole stripes but you could go for a chevron pattern , I have never ever seen one with that paint job so it would be pretty unique , there are decals on the bay of E at the moment with 3 days left , you gotta do it ,

not as nice as the one in fastfordrc's post but nice all the same , http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__31421__Fokker_Dr_I_Triplane_EPO_R_C_Plane_PNF_NL_Warehouse_.html ,

at that scale you will need a rudder ! they are kind of essential , consider flying in even a light breeze , no rudder no correction , you would be better off with a hot air balloon , at the scale you are looking at you will need full control surface operation ailerons ,tail and rudder , the thing you mention is most likely a 2D gyro , you wont need it , if I was you I would buy one of the great kits from hobby king uk warehouse say a 600-1000mm model , they start at amazing prices and get out and fly , that would give you a good grounding on what the various control surfaces actually do and just how essential they are , on the other hand if you do just want a scale display model then this all becomes somewhat irrelevant .

ahh , the first RC, its a special feeling, the truck looks awesome ,I do like ansmann cars , I have a few. Shame its not a Tamiya , every kids first rc car should be a Tamiya , guess it would help if Tamiya would pull their fingers out and put out a short course truck , happy driving .

that's crazy man, love it!!

you could just get the 3 racing UJ shafts and 3 racing diff cups I posted a link to , saves messing with the diffs and keeps the cost down .