alfagta

not to hand but it should be the same colour as the saver and should fill the recess in the middle of the saver , even if you have the spacer you will still have the screw that wont stay tight , have a look for the washer /spacer then try fitting it with 3mm screw of suitable length to grip the servo output shaft and see how you get on

the type of washer will depend on the servo saver in use , basic tamiya uses a plastic spacer , high torque item has a large plastic washer and others use just a metal washer , if the basic (kit supplied ) item is in use then the servo saver horn would just drop off leaving the screw in place , is it like this ?

if you have a 2.6mm screw in the servo and have stripped the thread you can go up to a 3mm screw , if you had a 3mm in it and stripped the thread then a new servo will be the best solution , for a cheap replacement hobby king do a waterproof item for less than £4 that i can recommend , been using 4 of them for almost a year and had no trouble from them , hope this helps a bit ,

just some UJ drive shafts today

hi Percymon , i usually have a look at google images, ie search for blue car or red car or even custom car paint and see what comes up, usually find something to give me an idea or two , with the DT03 i went for my own take on the frog colours with a custom pink pearl and white with blue accents ,

it will be fine, tamiya tend to hang the pinion off the end of the old silver can motors, the longer shaft just gives increased support for the pinion , have fun

as long as the linkage is holding the throttle body barrel/slide closed so there is only a small 1-2 mm gap when the radio is in neutral it should be fine , you want a good steam from the exhaust , that indicates good fuel supply , rc engines rely on oil evaporation for cooling , if you get no smoke the engine is too lean , if you are getting lots of smoke with a reluctance to rev cleanly it is too rich , when you get lots of smoke and a clean quick revving engine you have a good setting , as i mentioned a worn engine may idle well and have good smoke at low revs but quickly goes too lean and over heats , if you are not getting heat into the engine it is most likely too rich , be methodical , start at the factory settings and assess what its trying to do, then try leaning or enriching the mixture a little at a time taking note of any improvement , the mixture settings change with the weather too so there will never be a setting where it can be taken out and run like a battery car , it will take time to learn your engines requirements , hope this helps a bit, reminds of why i gave up on fuel cars have fun

hi Sven , it does sound like over fueling , but could just be from it taking so long to start ,effectively flooding the crank case which in turn gives the impression that it has a carb issue , try a hotter plug with a fully charged glow ignitor with the carb flow mix needles and idle point set back to the manufacturers default positions and try again , if it still wont run i would hazard a guess that you have a leak somewhere that is reducing the effectiveness of the vacuum stroke , takes ages to start thus flooding the crank case , sheer mass of fuel in the engine eventually forces a start but the lack of vacuum cant pull enough fuel to run smoothly and you have to blip the throttle to keep it running, then when it runs it cuts out in the mid range? if that is the case its new piston & sleeve time , check the crank and con rod while you are at it , if the sleeve and piston are shot then other parts will most likely be worn too . how much use it had ?

did a quick paint job on the DT03 , it is pinker than the pic shows , camera flash and pearl paint , not a happy mix , still , quite happy with how it turned out .

not sure if this will help , http://www.eflightwiki.com/eflightwiki/index.php?title=LiPo_Balance_Plugs , might help you id it so you can make up a simple adaptor lead ,

Hi EDB, welcome to the TC forums and indeed back to the hobby , there are a plethora of buggies and rc cars and trucks so ponder what its potential uses might be. having just built up the neo fighter buggy and had it in the dirt i can confirm its a superb little buggy , it builds beautifully , looks ace ( IMO) and has great handling for an entry level tamiya , if however you plan to go club racing you may want more, but if you are like me and many others on these boards the neo fighter is perfect for ragging around on grass track and really comes to life on wet grass track , the included motor , oil dampers and brushless motor compatible ESC are just gravy on the dumplings ! your old radio gear will be fine if it all works , you may want to get a new crystal set for it but they cost a couple of pounds , of course do the usual range checks in a sensible place as the last thing you want is to lose control of your new buggy , as for batteries the choice is plentiful , i opted for the 4200 LiFepo4 pack from zippy as the ESC (electronic speed control) has a built in shut off designed for that specific battery type , http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__37388__ZIPPY_Flightmax_4200mAh_2S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html , as for chargers just do a search on here to see what others have had success with , have fun and happy shopping

Hi, I would keep the punch setting quite low with that motor , especially if you plan to use high grip softer compound tyres , if your motor/esc combo allows you can play with timing etc too , I run m chassis with 8.5t motors and thus far without issue . Have fun

How do fella,s , after reading some of the comment's on the new ESC I was ready to flog it before it arrived , but I gave it a go anyway, it is doddle to set up and adjust , in operation it is typical Tamiya , smooth and gets the job done so well you just forget about it and have a blast. I do wish it was lipo ready but I may get some LiFe packs, Waterproofing would be good too . For an included esc in such a cheap kit it simply is superb.

just some bearings for my dt03 , and a new capacitor for my compressor , hoping the workshop is quiet tomorrow so i can warm up the airbrush and get some colour on the body shell ,

battery in on the esc.

worked most of the day , then an evening blast with the HB ,

hi fella's , not been on tc forum for a while , just too busy for toy car madness , i thought i would treat myself to a budget buggy for grass use , the dt03 release completely passed me by , then , i was looking at the rc racer site and saw the typically superb and honest review of it and thought i might get one , then read the tuning tips review by another of our respected members that i know will have given it a proper shakedown and my mind was made up , superbly quick service from am-slotracing on the bay of muchness . will get the hop ups soon , just waiting on the bearings arriving to start the build , will soon be in the pink !

very true , unless you have an orv with greedy servo that is already running the Rx close to its limits ,add an 'all ports used' tlu and it could be the tipping point ,

http://www.fusionhobbies.com/products/tamiya-pc-polycarbonate-paint have a wee peek there ,

or this , http://www.plastidip.co.uk/eStore/index.cfm?Regular%20Can%20400ml&stage=3&pid=PDL-0008&colour=Clear ,

spot on !!

teu101, teu 105 , hobbywing 35, 60, xerun , hobbyking x-car 60,120 , castle sidewinder , novak crawler brushless , all worked just fine , as i mentioned i used acoms and futaba rx's too so there was a bec in circuit too , there was clear dimming when i tried with a 4.8v 4 cell pack though ,

your welcome , have fun

i ran both of my TLU's from my spektrum sr3100 and ORX g300 , acoms and futaba rx's too with no issues and no dimming of the lights , i only had 4 LED's running though so if you plan to have all ports on the TLU in use the direct battery connection is the prefered method to save strain on the esc BEC circuit .

hi, if they cut the brushes the other way so as to give full contact with the comm you would soon find the com would wear more in the middle, by starting with the outer edge contact first the comm and brushes wear far more evenly , rebuildable motors that have matched brushes wear the comm faster in its centre , thats why they need cut once in a while , its also why brush serratore's were so common back in the brushed days as it speeds up break in while minimising arcing that scorches the comm and reduces current flow , mabuchi motors know what they are doing , i know it may seem counter intuitive but it is a very deliberate action that improves the performance/ endurance balance , just run them in gently at half power for a full pack of about 2400mah and the performance will perk up,