alfagta

hi GregM, when building the dampers it is best to fit the top caps first , then fill the damper from the bottom but, dont go above the threaded portion , insert the damper rod and piston assembly all the way into the damper then screw the seal cartridge 'slowly' into the damper to allow excess air/oil to escape , you should have around 5mm or rebound when its right , hope this helps a bit

i get my bits from banzai hobby , http://banzaihobby.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=kyosho%20EZ&search_in_description=1&inc_subcat=0&sort=2a&page=1 they are cheap but japan post is quite expensive

looks very sturdy , given that my drive shafts dont rub and i get full suspension travel ,we can assume there is something which is not quite right on your car , if the gearbox is seated right down on the chassis , the shock tower is fitted correctly, the damber shaft ends are screwed right on everything should be good to go, i cant see anything else on the rear end that would cause the drive shafts to touch the outdrives

i am using a 10.5 trackstar with HK 60a sensored esc and 21t pinion in my m04 extra long wheel base with tl01 suspension arms so its kinda like a 2wd tl01 , its a rocket , the biggest issue i am having is that it eats rear tyres , it took a set of new type-A slicks down to the belt in two packs , the gear box is fine and the car handles brilliantly , IMO you will be fine with a hot system in a tl01 ,just be prepared to buy lots of rubber

for the most part its 1mm ,then after forming it goes down to around the 0.5mm range , tamiya do light weight versions of their shells too, which i believe are formed from 0.8mm pre formed thickness

wow indeed mate ,it has surprised me too , i do use foam plugs to keep the grime out too but it has taught me that it appears that the thrust race is the weak spot in most ball diffs , the longer i can get them to last the better , we do ask a lot of such a tiny component

i always use loose ceramic thrust balls and DX moly grease on ball diffs, you can get a few extra balls in there if you use loose balls and bin the ball retainers which reduces the cm/2 dyne on each ball and more importantly the thrust race plates , by using this method i have taken the ball diffs in my cars from needing serviced every 3 or 4 runs to still being silky smooth after more than 20 runs. might be worth a go

hi fella's , i have an 8.5 trackstar motor/ 60a ezrun esc in my hb2010 LTD with a 17t pinion and so far ,after many runs ,jumps and the odd tumble its still fine , the motor does get quite warm but never 'too hot' (will still be doing the mod as detailed in your other thread 'super gripper', especially for the summer months) , it is a handful but i find that with the punch and esc timing turned right down to minimum with some timing retardation on the motor its great,

i can see that rear shock tower flex from here , no doubt 3racing will have a cure soon enough , it looks quite nice hop'd up but for the money i suspect we could buy a world class race buggy and have change left for a couple of lipo packs .

which servo ? , i have 3 hk servos and they are 25 spline .

it is possible to reduce the top and bottom coil on the stock dt02 springs using some water pump pliers or similar , just do a little at a time and check the fit , i did this at first until the new springs arrived , you will have to wind the ride height adjusters right down as the kit springs are quite short but it will sort them out to give you a more drivable car until you source some AE/Losi or other springs

thanks man, i have never seen it before , just thought it a bit odd .

whats this all about , why are Tamiya selling can bread , are they in fear of north Korea actually launching a bomb ? or, are we supposed to collect can's of bread ? might get some just to have a taste but its rather odd

i have mine tightened right down , the diaphragms are quite soft so they should allow you to lock the caps down , as long as they dont leek you should be fine though.

no probs, i think 3racing still do the dt02 spring set but to be honest i would either go for tamiya buggy springs or losi springs (orange fronts and pink rears are a good combo if i remember correctly but do double check that) , i am using some old ansmann x-pro med springs up front and ansmann(team c ) x-pro med rears to great effect at the moment , you should be able to use any 2wd buggy springs , with most manufacturers going 'big bore' you can pick up the older standard bore springs that fit the 3racing dampers pretty cheaply , have fun

hi, i have 7 sets of 3 racing V2 shocks for various tamiya cars and they all arrived in perfect condition , i have purchased over 100 3racing products over the years and they have always been superb ,maybe the ones you got had been raided at the shop for spares or even had the parts stolen if they were on display , with regards the oil i use 35 or 37.5wt up front and 40-42.5wt rear in my dt02 cars , if you are using the 3racing springs you may want to go for heavier oil as the springs that came with mine were very firm for a lipo and brushless equipped car. good luck with getting them sorted.

very true , perhaps they will do it as a 'worlds edition' or similar , lee martin has been racing the Vega to great effect while wearing Tamiya logo's so i think tamiya will be a little embarrassed by this.

hi, i have one of mr crispy's templates , pm me and i will post it to you

, yeah ,thats the ones , i would have thought the defender would be a far better seller but it may still be a nice kit , looking forward to seeing it

its an odd one for sure, only time i have had similar issues was when i left out one of the bearings for the input shaft to the front diff on one of my tb02 cars, all i can suggest is to work your way through the car starting at the spur , make sure all the bearing carriers are fitted correctly and the motor isnt loose , good luck with it

saw that on tamiya blog, my guess is a land rover freelander type body but not exactly the same to save on the massive license fee that land rover probably asked for to reproduce it

hi, front one way is designed and intended to be used with a very smooth driving style , reduce braking power and brake on the straight, get all braking done before you turn and roll the car through turns then get back on the power when half way through the turn to use the one way to pull the car out of the turn , check weight bias, get an old bit off wood and stick two wood screws through it at points where they will touch the chassis plate at front and rear , mark the chassis center and set it on the screws,, add weight until the car balances on the screws , you can buy them ready made but the wood and screws does the same job. check that the roll bars are not binding on either side and check the dampers for air, if one shock has air in and the other side doesnt you will get a tweaked chassis under acceleration and braking have fun,

top job, you can get the carson mad fighter tyres on their own and they are a nice snug fit on the HB kit wheels.

as i can only convey my personal experience via my posts i would suggest that the post i made is for the OP to decide if its helpful or not , as i said," in 17 years i have never paid duty using the slower shipping method " ,apart from one occasion when i used speed post and had to pay duty ! , so , in my experience the post i made is entirely accurate ,but, not the actual import rule,, as you said anything can have duty charged on it ,but, it has always been the case for me .

hi, if it wont come out easily you could just add a small spacer of the same thickness to the other shock body so they are the same length, or, buy some new shocks.