alfagta

i would go 20% , i am not sure if its still available but i found tornado fuel was the best available when i ran nitro cars ( and i tried every fuel i could get my hands on) , it starts faster and keeps the engine measurably cooler and internally cleaner (less varnish build up) than any other fuel , it was also the fuel of choice for the world champion 1/8 circuit for 3 years in a row ,

pinion , steel HD , http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-HD-Steel-0-6-Module-0-6M-Pinion-Tamiya-Mini-M05-M03-HPI-E10-21T-/271611685952?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item3f3d516c40 , its the last one and they dont appear that much

duratrax b3 clone perhaps ?

thankyou buddy, wow! they are amazing , i doubt i will get it to that level of detail but it will be fun trying

thankyou Steve , sadly the link just takes me back to forum start page

good call Steve , thanks !, i was just hunting google images and was taken by the winter camo , will warm up the airbrush this weekend and get on that bad boy

waiting for me when i got home ,along with a couple of cheap carson servo's and a steel pinion for the M-04EL what paint scheme should i go for ?? or even leave it and do a bit of weathering ???? suggestions welcome . has anyone done a pink tiger 1 ????

Yes most esc's have 'double tap reverse but there are a few esc s that go straight to reverse , usually you have to select it when setting up, withe the default being forward brake reverse, it will be in the manual for your particular esc

Hi james, what colour is the base of the glow plug next to the element when you remove it , silver, goldish or a dark brown?

me either, especially when it is a new set of type A 's , they aint cheap !

yip, block sand it back , a matchbox makes a nice small block and keep it gentle , taking extra care to not sand in ridges (the block helps keep preasure even and well spread) then wet sand with very fine wet or dry , finish with 1200 and 1500 , if you get back to the plastic stop sanding that part , all you want to achieve is to flatten the runs back to the same level as the surrounding paint . for future reference , get a jug with some hot-ish water and stand the paint in it for 5 minutes , shake for 2-3 minutes then back in water for a minute or two then a quick shake of 30 seconds and spray , dont hold the can too close , around 20+cm from surface to be sprayed , allow time for each 'light' coat to dry , around 5 minutes in a warm room , 20 minutes in a cool room , use long sweeping strokes that extend beyond the work , my best tip for painting is tea and cake ! , really ,, get some nice cakes and sit and have a cake and a cuppa between coats . you have to be portly to drive a big rig , right? take your time and you will get sorted

welcome to tc forums

sensored systems have very smooth low speed performance and also monitor motor temps at the esc and will go into safe mode if the motor temp exceeds threshold ,as percymon mentioned , unsensored set ups can stutter at low speeds , known as cogging , sensored systems are IMO better but not essential , sensored motors can be used unsensored and most sensored esc's default to unsensored mode if there is a failure of any of the sensor harness or sensor's so you can keep racing , for good acceleration simply choose a motor with adjustable timing and wind the timing into the negative range , turn up the punch setting on the esc and order lots of tyres

i am using these among others , http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__45914__Turnigy_TrackStar_10_5T_Sensored_Brushless_Motor_3730KV_UK_Warehouse_.html , i have it in 17.5 , 13.5 , 10.5 and 7.5 , the 10.5 should be quick enough , keep in mind you can gear up a brushless system a bit more than you can a brushed system , if you go for an esc with boost and turbo they become quite scary , use in open spaces ! , with the 7.5 i actually ripped a brand new set of tamiya type A slicks from the rear wheels , i dont mean the glue gave up , the tyres literally ripped from the rims

i havent used the turnigy esc you linked to but it looks good , the 4 pole motor is aimed more at short course and is rather power hungry , aim for around 3500kv for the motor and keep in mind that you will have to solder on a battery connector with esc's from HK , i use these https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=64595 , and their 120a brothers , i have 4x 60a and one 120a and they have all been flawless , they are not waterproof sadly but , they can take a 13.5 motor and boost them up to 10.5 motor speeds ( i have run 8.5 on them but it was all too fast!!, they have good caps fitted that allows them to run even well hammered batteries , my old yeah racing 3200 li-po packs only manage 2200mah now and only give about 7.2 v for most of their discharge and the esc never stutters with a 10.5 and the boost and turbo turned up which equates to a rather quick system , plus you can grab one of these https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__56469__USB_Programming_Adapter_for_Hobbyking_X_Car_120A_60A_ESC_UK_Warehouse_.html , and tweak it to very slow and soft all the way to tyre removing grunt with your pc, take your time and have a blast

just been having a hunt for the stug bb gun , it would appear that they only do it with the ir system now , perhaps space is a bit tight in the stug? could you fit the jagdpanther gun ?? , worth a look as its a BIG gun and size does matter

yes no problem , just set the low volt cut off to 2.7v per cell and you will be good to go , especially once your packs have been cycled through a few times , i wouldnt go much lower than a 10.5t though , just to save over working the nimh packs , have fun

from what i have seen when looking at the masses of options you just get a new bb gun and swap em over ,

****! you aint having any good luck at all ,,i think its time you wrote to santa and asked for a brushless system with li-po and a new charger ! edit: i didnt know that **** was considered a bad word , its in the English dictionary and is a perfectly reasonable and inoffensive word but hey, i am sorry i used the word **** and **** it i wont use it ever again on these boards ,

hiya man, this is odd , even low quality batteries in decent condition should be able to run that motor ,if it was a 5 turn single then i would expect the batteries to struggle , i cant find any info on the mtroniks 11x2 , i am wondering if the brushes or com are damaged/worn and the motor is trying to pull too much current , effectively going short circuit across the winding's , as i mentioned earlier voltage would need to drop very low for the esc to cut due to bad batteries so now i suspect the esc/ motor to be at fault , do you have another motor to try ? edit: even try the motor with the pinion removed to see if revs ok with no load .

thankyou my friend , will get one ordered , , i swear i saw the neighbours cat giving me a dirty look this morning on my way to work , he's gonna get a fright when he meets the Tiger

was thinking the same , i have a couple of spare alarms kicking around , it would have been awesome if there was a spare couple servo port's on the control unit to run proper esc's but for the price i will be happy with the two speed . have you tried fitting a better speaker at all ?

yip , its all your fault sir , i think its the early tiger but a few of the details are from the later tigers , air cleaners for instance , http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321010303762?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT , latest rx18 board , smoke , sound ,bb gun and a few metal upgrades , looks like a bargain , cant wait to terrorize the neighbours cat

just pulled the trigger on a German Tiger with metal gears tracks and sprockets ,

thanks for the run down mr crispy , much appreciated ,