alfagta

pure magic , i simply cant take pictures of that quality, top job, the heng long tanks look really nice , would love to read your thoughts on them

you can try charging the pack , then run it down at 2/3 throttle as constantly as you can , a wide open car park is ideal , let the pack cool, and do it again , several times,, my 4 cell pack in my old mardave v12 kept cutting but using this method brought them back to life and they now charge at 3a and dont cut out any more , they are just super cheap venom 6 cell packs cut down to 4 cell ( the first cell in the pack died after using a wall wart charger!), its worth a go

hi again Tamiy1/10, as mentioned the settings are all controlled at the ESC ,you can still use the low volt cut off with ni-mh , just select 2.7v per cell (equivelant of 0.9v per cell in 6 cell stick pack) , this will keep your ni-mh in best condition. motors do have timing adjust but that only effects where in its rev range the most power is developed , + timing gives more grunt at the top of the rev range , - timing gives more at the bottom of the rev range ,, i havent seen a brushless system that doesnt have lipo cut off apart from tamiya systems which have LiFepo4 (A123) cut off , if i can bore you for a moment , the reason for tamiya's choice of LiFe batteries is quite simple , a few years ago the world of 1/10 touring went down to 5 cell nimh batteries , tamiya found life packs gave the same power as 5 cell but in a far more reliable and safe technology and so they committed to it , i love the power from li-po but feel 'life batteries' should have been the battery of choice but the american desire for 'more of everything' dictates what the rest of the world must use , tamiya feel we need to slow down a touch , i feel the same , i dont really have need of a motor and battery system that can do 60+mph in under a second and doubt many folks do , the popularity of stock and super stock racing is indicative of this , YAWN,

hobbywing xerun v2.1 90a or 120a ,or, the hobbyking X-car 60a or 120a esc's can all be set to instant reverse with no delay edit, oops , you wanted brushed mtronics viper marine perhaps ?

hi , going by the current brushless motor categories used in racing we have , 21t which is the same as a silver can 27t mabuchi , 17.5t is the same as a tuned 27t stock rebuildable , 13.5 is the same as 19t super stock , keep in mind that brushless systems are more efficient ( up to 20% longer run times than brushed depending on esc timing etc) than brushed systems and brushless esc's tend to be more tunable, punch, timing , boost timing , turbo timing etc can all be reduced to give the battery an easy life while still having a quick set up, so even if you use older battery tech you will get longer run times than with brushed , just disable the li-po low voltage cut off when using nicads or nimh and you should be fine . have fun ,

To wake up nimh you should do the first charge at around 0.5a, then run the pack down without stopping until the car very slow, then once cooled completely recharge at about 2a , run down again without stopping , this all gives the pack a base memory effect of giving full discharge , if the pack stored for any length of time over a month it is advised to repeat the wake up cycle, most digital chargers have a cycle procedure for the wake up.;-)

Hi, Hobbyking customer service is poor at best, I still use them, I just buy what I need and contact them via live chat if I have an issue, which was only once in 38 orders, and I will say that the help I got was spot on, if you have product questions just use the customer forum at the bottom of each product listing page, it's an odd way of doing things but they millions of people that use them and I haven't been let down by them yet, If you just don't want to go down the HK route then you can find turnigy stuff on ebay too, Have fun

the issue you are having is nothing to do with the RX , as you said in the OP , its voltage droop from the battery at max current draw , as the batteries are new i would suggest they need waking up or are just not up to the job for that esc motor combo , try the cap on the esc and see if it helps a bit , i suspect it will only partially fix the issue , for the rv11 to cut out voltage must be dropping below 4v at max current draw , if that is the case then your packs have major issues , i have had similar issues when i used a cheap transformer based charger like the base level wall warts and some of those old school items sold by fusion hobbies etc , they killed individual cells in the packs , if you have a volt meter you can check voltage of the battery right after charging , it should be around 8v or more , anything less suggests a problem and all the caps in the world wont solve it , good luck with the cap , hopefully it will solve the issue .

my ansmann 55mm dampers ( older big body type with threaded collar ) use a 5.8mm ball end , like these , http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product_view.asp?p_id=7608 , they look the same as those used on the newer ansmann ones , http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ansmann-Racing-Aluminium-Dampers-55mm-2Pcs-201000036-/281365690446?pt=UK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN&hash=item4182b3b84e .

lets hope so , as it doesnt come with a shell which should soak up some of the included hop up parts cost i would guess it should be similarly priced ,

just been checking the latest pics of the 02 'S' type , thanks to qatmix for keeping us updated on the RCRACER blog

that does sound like a sensor issue , its a shame you are all the way over in NZ , i could have sent you a couple of esc's to check the motor , you could grab a sensor widget if they are available over there , http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=366382&gclid=CJGKwZGegcECFYUfwwodxSYADg , good luck with it

would work a treat with an extended wheelbase M-04 with DF-0(X) ra suspension arms

agree'd , they are known as temperature sensitive engines for a reason , cheaper engines in particular can have issues of the sleeve and cylinder over expanding at the top end around the burn space if too hot a plug is used as the oil gets burned too in the very fast explosion, the engine goes lean half way through a run due insufficient vacuum pulling enough essential ,cooling, oil thats mixed in the fuel( which evaporates in normal use and carries out the majority of the heat as an oil steam/vapour), .if your engine cuts a lot after a half a tank-ish chances are it has gone lean . the OS engines tamiya used were fairly sturdy and reliable though.

hi Berman, it sounds like you may still have the esc in brushed mode , when you first switch on the esc what colour is the led ?

i thought the same , but , is it browning out the RX or is the esc going into cut off ? which is why i asked the question rx or esc cap , ;-)

did you get an RX cap or an ESC cap?

i think this is the type of boost cap super gripper was meaning , http://www.rcmart.com/keyence-op87520-super-power-capacitor-p-37055.html , could be wrong

hi , custom colors do a british racing green , http://www.dms-racing.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_product_id=2512&virtuemart_category_id=53 , never used it but it might be the closest you will find , there is also a lotus racing green which is often ( mistakenly )called british racing green but is more of a metallic version of british racing green , when looking for a specific shade of a colour i usually mix up my own with pots of tamiya or faskolor polycarb paint and fire it through the airbrush. good luck ,

my advice is to start with stock class, its slower but wayyyyyyyyy cheaper than modified with much reduced crash damage , 4wd can be fun but you have two diffs extra drive shafts etc to wear out and keep adjusted correctly , the most important part of club racing IMO is to have fun , dont race other drivers , race the track and set personal goals such as consistently getting your lap times down a little at a time by getting smoother and cleaner , try not to get sucked into the ' spend more to go faster' trap , take any old 2wd buggy that the club will allow before you buy anything new , durango's are nice but hate high traction surfaces , until you know the track you wont know what chassis will be best , talk to the regulars and look at what they drive and what seems the smoothest and most consistent , i have seen guys with old mardave cobra's beat guys with fully hopped up 22's B5's etc , again , the most important thing is to have a blast , if you really get into it then you start to spend money wisely with some experience to give clever ,informed decisions . have fun

You would have to buy a whole f103 front end , the sp1 chassis is pre drilled to accept the 103/104 front ends , but you will need to buy the option parts , you can potentially assemble various front ends and rear axles to give a modular system that allows relatively easy adaptation for any track condition

if you go for the tb-02 you must budget for hop up diffs as the plastic diff half's are weaker than a weak thing from a weak place not to mention the diff screws have a habit of snapping too , i shredded 6 pairs of diff halves and many screws running a 27t epic brushed motor , never had the ta-05 so cant comment on it , i would go for xv-01 if the car is going to be used in the street and on track .

yes it will fit just fine

no worries , if you run 2x 14 in parallel as per the pic the esc will see a 7 turn load , with sport tuned the esc will hardly break a sweat , do watch the motor temps though as the clod is quite a heavy old beast and with the increased pinion size they may get a bit hot , i think it will be fine , have fun shredding

never tried but it should be fine , as the esc is unlimited you should be able to get a pair of quite low turn motors in there .