alfagta
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Posts posted by alfagta
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the spektrum sr3100 seems fine with ni-cad/ni-mh apart from when used with a castle sidewinder sv2 , when i try that the recievers go into failsafe just like the orx clones , i think its to do with the very high initial voltage of the older battery technology and the bec circuits , most manufacturers give bec outputs based on li-po these days which has a peak out of 8.4v , some of my old ni-cd manage 9.5v at peak charge , its the only reason i can think of that would cause the failsafe to kick in ,
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hi atf300 ,
i have had endless issues with every castle esc i have owned , they promise so much but cant deliver IMO , add to that the clever guy that did all the firmware for them has left the company and i wonder how long they will be around ,
with your mmp , try cleaning all the pins on the port with a soft paintbrush and some electrical cleaner , it could be as simple as a dirty connection .
good luck
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one of my friends has a stack of hobby king 45a esc's in his old tamiya kits, they all work flawlessly , they have very smooth throttle response and get the job done , they are a quite large though, about 10mm bigger than a tamiya teu101bk for instance, the turnigy systems are great value too , they are also available under the leopard brand in bright orange anodise , TBH i have had many esc's from the likes of LRP, Novak, castle creations and they have given me problems (as in just stopping working and even catching fire or smoking badly while being used well within recommended specs) , all the Tamiya, hobby wing , hobby king, turnigy, yeah racing systems i have work perfectly without a glitch , the turnigy trackstar motors (the silver slotted can ones) are awesome , for the money i havent found a better brushless motor , over size rotor shaft and bearings , variable timing (handy for getting longer run times) and light weight. it does everything that my trinity epic duo2 does at a third of the cost!
if you can ,get any stuff from hobby king via your nearest warehouse , just in case .
have fun
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hi, you could pick up a lower end spektrum dsm2 transmitter and buy some orange rx g300 receivers which are only $10 each , although they dont like ni-cad or ni-mh so li-po only , the hobby king 2.4 systems are ok but my friend has one and the rx's hate moisture, hes killed two already after driving in slighty wet grass , for dry running though they are hard to beat. it may be worth waiting a while as hobby king are rolling out new orang rx systems , they are pretty much clones of the spektrum top end systems and i am expecting a dx3r pro clone soon.
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full of promise, keep at it , get in touch with astro turf companies that are close to you and ask if they have any off cuts or even old stuff that they have lifted when redoing 5 aside footy pitches etc , you should be able to pick some up at a couple quid a meter , keep us all posted !
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could it be that the end point has been adjusted on the transmitter, some esc's wont go to reverse until full brake has been applied first, they do this to allow brake to applied more than once without engaging reverse and shrediing gear boxes , if the epa is not allowing full brake it wont go into reverse , just a suggestion , as said until the esc and transmitter are known its all guessing.
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no worries, had the same issue a few weeks ago on a hi fi forum.
now show us that there track
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seems ok , i used the direct link tab which should work unless its a private album in settings.
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http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh93/DEFENDER888/tamiya/card1054.jpg
just a test pic to see if it works
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thanks guys
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hi fellas, wolfdogstinkus you could use a mix of surfaces , try and find some old astroturf for one section , hard pack clay for another , you can get really cheap needle punch carpet off cuts for peanuts , it drains really well and lasts for ages outdoors as it has no backing and is fully synthetic,
looking forward to seeing the pics
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nice job shaggy,
wonder if you could do me a small favour, could you tell me the wheelbase and track width of the wheel arches on the shell please? , i have been looking at these shells for ages as i would like to run one on an m chassis if i can get it to fit,
cheers
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hi, the reason it happens IME is, puting the paint on without loading enough onto the brush, tamiya brush paint must be stirred and dry's really quick so you have to work quickly and apply fairly heavy coats, this allows the paint to flow and any brush marks disappear and dont go over a part thats already painted until its dry , but, you can do it with less on the brush to achaive the brush strokes which can be used to give texture,
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hi, this is quite easy to sort out, thin the paint so its really thin , i would suggest 4:1 paint to thinner , then apply in very wet coats, the thinned paint will pool in the shallows of the brush stroke marks and will build up to give a more even finish , it may take several coats but it works,
i had the same issue doing some of my f103 shells ,
all the best
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hi fella's ,
its a bit late but, if you are gonna mess with the f103 then go straight here, http://www.rcmart.com/tamiya-f103-c-595_744_1221.html?page=1&sort=1a ,
all the wheels, rubber tyres in every compound and hop ups you will ever need for the 103 and no chance of buying the wrong stuff ,
rc mart even sponsor the asia f1 race series for the past few years , i havent found better in 15 years of rc'ing,
all the best
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a quick word on molybdenum grease , it makes some plastics weak by making it go soft and other plastics go brittle due to the oil based composition of the grease and the plastic being composed of oil too, use it on metal to metal only,thats why we use it only on the thrust race of ball diffs but silicon grease on the plastic ring gear, use clear silicon grease on plastic to plastic and plastic to metal , as said by oldschoolrunner get molybdenum grease from your local motor factors , you can get a 300g tub for about £6 .
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i think that over the years Tamiya have learned a lot , they have got to know their market and try to give that market what it wants , they try not to jump on 'trends' ,rather they try to find a niche within a trend that suits the brand , HPI have won their fans but they blew it with the true ten for instance , its far too expensive and just cant touch the M chassis (my favourite rc cars and always will be), their touring cars always felt a bit naff to me and the monster trucks, savage etc are for a 'special' type of owner , axial were great at first but they have went for premium prices but dont have the quality to go with the prices and are going more and more for the RTR way of doing things , as their market has grown they keep getting more expensive rather than using increased production to lower the prices , tamiya cars that are a huge success tend to go down in price over time , they have the odd 'what the badword are you doing tamiya' , moments but,for the most part they try and cover a vast market but not all of it ,kids toys? some of it, but, not all of it , its why i love Tamiya , they are not trying to completely dominate as if they were i believe that they would crush the competition just like they do every time they re-enter the race scene , when they try they do deliver and , as has been mentioned they are still the best at making rc cars that look like cars .
i have owned cars from associated , losi, kyosho, hpi, axial , marui (remember them?) mardave, thunder tiger and none of them offer the same smile i get from TAMIYA , i accept the bad times as i know Tamiya will provide the best times.
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well , not quite speculation , more of a wish list ,
get rid of the stupid 'in moulded' arm mounts on the suspension arms ,
go over to a standard C hub arrangement on the front end, the ball joint front end that the 01 had is simply daft and doesnt meet the design brief of the chassis being 'an introduction class car'. it only introduced systems that are not used on any other tamiya kits , it should have been an all moulded car that had its geometry and build/construction method taken from the TRF cars.
the friction dampers really need to be forgotten, the mini cva damper is perfect for the tt0 cars and would take no new production tooling as proven with the TT01D ,
a stiffer plastic for the tub (i doubt they will use a grp plate ) to help the car drive in a straight line when a better motor system finds its way into the car,
the motor mount in the existing car is annoying and ill conceived and simply not needed in a touring platform , although i bet my life that they still use a pre meshed set up,
bearings , doubt it but we can hope,
all metal drive shafts and out drives ,
cross pin key for the diff pinions as they can strip out far too easily (unless they go belt drive)
for what its worth, i dont know why tamiya went for all the silly ideas on the 01 , most of them just made the car more awkward to work on and wore out quicker , not to mention how much harder it was to drive the thing, the tl01 was a far better(and faster on the track) car , the 01D with the few mods it came with transformed it into a far more robust and useable platform ,
what i think we will actually get is a variation of the 01E with different suspension arms and a lipo ready tub and metal motor mount,
MMP woes
in All things electric...
Posted
very true , any esc can fail , and my experience should not be taken as an example of all castle esc's , even though ive had issues Dan at castle was always very helpful and got me sorted out, its just the whole inconvenience of it that bugs me , my cheap systems are all flawless whn used at the limit of their specs yet the more expensive systems give me problems when used way below the specs ,
as for the guy you got the esc from , if you used paypal you could start a dispute for partial refund as castle are gonna charge you around $60 for the repair add to that the postage to the U.S ,
best of luck.