alfagta
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Posts posted by alfagta
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Once again my wonderful wife has made sure my birthday is full of RC goodness:
The Renault Alpine is a shell that I have liked since it first came out, and I have read good things about the M06, so I am very pleased to have this in my fleet.
With over 20 runners in my fleet, I have run out of model memories on my DX3C, so the 30-model-memory DX4S will allow me to run them all on 2.4GHz.
Plus the motor, bearing kit and servo will help me complete the M06, and the latest Top Gear magazine will makes for entertaining reading!
nice gift XV , have fun building and driving that puppy , would love to read your thoughts on the dx4s , my dx3r is showing its age so i am looking at new radio systems , not sure if i should stay with spektrum or give the Flysky fs-IT4 a try ,
a small package was on the mat waiting for me today , was stunned to see it was from asiatees , less than a week since i ordered
just a few bits for the dt03 and some 'O'rings for a few of my other cars which are long overdue a damper service ,
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the tble-02 s('S' denotes sensored only, ) will work with any sensored motor so you are not limited to just tamiya motors , i have tried a trinity epic duo2 10.5 , hk x-car 10.5 , trackstar 13.5 and powers 15.5 sensored motors and they all worked a charm ,
a note on set up, to select functions you must let go of the set button when the chosen led colour is displayed,
brushed/brushless selection ,you must push the set button while the selected led is lit , press when green for brushed , orange for brushless , press set button after selection and then the LED's will flash to show your current set up, refer to the diagram for the flash patterns
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I'm trying out a few things now - currently discharging a Lipo for storage, and the fan is quite loud. It didn't come on during charging though. It only kicks in if the charger needs cooling.
yip, the fan will always blow when discharging , especially at 3A , for the cost i was blown away by the over all quality and function of the X100 , i really dont need a new charger but i do find myself hankering after one every time i have a go .
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hi , that would be great , so, when are you gonna start work on it ??
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A Sport Tuned motor and four 3x38mm screw pins for a Boomer build and a new charger to replace my old Fusion one.
It's a relatively new one from ImaxRC (X100) with one of those fancy touch screens and graphical displays, but I got it mostly to do things that my Fusion won't do, such as discharge, cycle and store. I hope it's reliable.
my mate has had no issues with his at all , unless you call a rather noisy fan 'an issue' enjoy!
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XV , that is super awesome , someone is gonna love that
( god im hungry ) -
as another option there is always the gpm cc01 shafts which as far as i can tell can be easily disassembled and (i would assume) the stub axle could be mated to tamiya 44mm-46mm swing shafts ,
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hi fella's , what about the cc01 front UJ shafts , they may work , i think they are 45mm and use the 1260/1510 combo
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Like the bimmer and dino body.
looking at the 3 shells, are they correct scale? The NSX looks so much bigger compare to the other two even though the 3 are classified as 1:10 scale.
the m04 that has the nsx shell is fitted with tl01 arms and cvd's and also has extra chassis spacers to run the wheel base out to 257mm with track width of 188mm , the car with the alpine shell is a shortened m04 that has a 208mm wheelbase ,
a short vid of the alpine being thrashed in a tiny area ,
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hi, i use zippy 2s1p and 2s2p LiFepo4 4200 packs in my dt03 , they have slightly lower voltage than lipo but the tble-02s esc that comes with the dt03 is made to work with LiFe packs so it was a no brainer , they can be had from hobbyking very cheaply along with an x100 charger you would have a superb set up that should last for years and come well within budget .
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i think this is the same company but i dont see some of the models posted here so it could be a different outfit , http://rallylegendsrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=73 ,
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hi , which hobby people charger , they do 2 , one does li-po/ni-mh , the other does LiFepo4 , lipo , li-ion , etc , if you have the former then you cannot charge LiFepo4 as you will be putting too much voltage into the pack which at best will damage the battery, at worst it will risk a fire ,
as for the esc , the 302 is well respected but compared to the current crop of esc's from the likes of hobbywing the 302 is getting long in the tooth and IMO is long over due for replacement , my guess is that tamiya are just clearing out old stock before releasing its modern equivalent ,
i would advise you get a modern multi chemistry digital charger (they can be had very cheaply these days) and look for an esc that is easily programmable to allow you to quickly change battery cut off voltages , some are happy with brushed systems but brushless is far more efficient and in some ways safer than brushed ,
take your time and examine your options before committing funds to what is a rather redundant technology , i still use some brushed set ups but i also use lipo alarms which are soldered into the esc battery wires , they are cheap and readily available and have bright LED's that show the state of the pack and then sound very loudly when near the safe cut off .
have fun
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awesome, yummy ,tasty goodness , cant wait to see the body shell !!
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your welcome , meant to add , double check the connector that comes with your choice of pack and if needs be order an adaptor to suit if you are not too kean on re-soldering battery connectors ,
have fun
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hiya man, if i was about to buy a new charger i would go for one of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=56482&aff=624666
with these batteries , http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=29020&aff=624666 , its a snug fit in tamiya round compartments but do fit ,,as for them catching fire /exploding , it is possible but highly unlikely , just treat them right and you will be fine , if you really are worried then go for LiFePO4 , they are harder to find in hard cases but, for cars or buggies that have a protected battery compartment the soft case ones are fine , i use these , 2s1p just fits the dt02 dt03 and all my 2wd buggies but wont fit the tamiya rounded battery slots , https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__37390__ZIPPY_Flightmax_4200mAh_2S1P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html
, this is the smaller 2s2p , https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__37388__ZIPPY_Flightmax_4200mAh_2S2P_30C_LiFePo4_Pack_UK_Warehouse_.html ,
lithium batteries are in my opinion just as safe as old high capacity ni-mh and lasts longer with a little care and also give far less voltage droop through their discharge , i have had no issues other than a puffy pack from Vapex , just use a li po alarm or voltage cut off and for the first few cycles charge them at half 'C' (capacity) and only run them for about five minutes then charge , ten minutes then charge ,15.... etc , if you do this you will have reliable, powerful and long lasting batteries .
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you could also fill the dampers with heavier oil or pistons with fewer holes to increase damping , also overfill the dampers a touch to get more 'pack' toward the end of the compression stroke , if the dampers are diaphragm type you could fit some urethane bumpers inside the damper caps which also serve to ramp up the the damping rate as the shocks reach full compression
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hi Max,
its the obvious answer but, its worth what you are willing to pay , i think i can see some notching of the rear diff output cups so it has either seen a lot of use or has had a powerful motor in it at some point, this could all suggest a worn drive line etc, given that it has few choice hop ups , i would hazard a guess at £35-45 at the most , if it is as worn as it looks then a little less .
i just rebuilt a little used but long neglected Ta-02 for a friend , new bearings and full gear set , great little chassis thats a bag of fun on or off road .
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had an amazing and rare day of driving the tyres off a few of my M-chassis cars , M-04ss , M-05m , M-04el
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Thats the more solid solution, but in this case too, its better to make the hole slightly bigger (2.8 0r 3mm) to prevent tension cracks in the mount.
agree totally , although i prefer to use the 2.9mm ( usually the second in a 3 tap set) tap rather than a 3mm tap as i find the 3mm can make the thread too loose in plastic which means the thread strips very easily
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i screw an m3 x 14 machine screw right through the damper stay and then attach the ball nut ,
as mentioned the hop up stays come with all hardware , considering how cheap they can be found i have opted to order some along with some other hop ups for the dt03 , i may even order some big bore trf dampers for it , even though they cost more than the kit did!!
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I get them locally from Tamico.
0.8 17T: http://tamico.de/Motor-Ritzel-17-Zaehne-Modul-08-Stahl
0.8 19T: http://tamico.de/Motor-Ritzel-19-Zaehne-Modul-08-Stahl
The steel pinions come with steel grub screws included.
Shipping to UK is 13,90 Euro, so it may be worth gathering some more parts or kits for a bigger order. Even though their website is in German, you can contact them in English for help:
Contact form: https://tamico.de/kontakt.php
Direct e-mail: shop@tamico.de
Please excuse for the advertising, I'm not related to them other than getting 99% of my kits and spare parts from them.
top man, thankyou
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thanks fella's , i have an rw pinion in my hb2010 , it still doesnt run as quiet as the stock alloy pinion , its almost as bad as the traxxas items .
@GregM , i have tried searching for those carson pinions but cant find any in stock anywhere , can i ask where you obtain yours , even google cant find me any !
thanks again guys
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i am trying to find actual module 0.8 pinions too, some 32dp pinions work but are still noisier than tamiya 0.8 items , even the 32dp robinson pinions ,which many members use, dont run quite right , i am most likely going for the maverick brass module 0.8 pinions , they seem like the easiest option that is harder wearing than tamiya aluminium (cottage cheese) items
Looking for 1st rally car. Where to start?
in General discussions
Posted
you could pick up a TT02B buggy shell (or other 4wd buggy shells that are a snug fit ) and use it as an underbody , unless someone knows of a purpose made underbody for the TT02 it should help a lot , by cutting some thin rubber (old bicycle inner tube is perfect) you can also make baffles that fit snug around the steering links but still allow the links to move freely , this is a great mod if you run on gravel a lot , the steering can get bound up really easily on the tt series , i will try to find a copy of the pics i had of my TT01 rally, but, i have a feeling they were only in my old phone
have fun