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photomic

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About photomic

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  1. The two white pieces in the last photo above are for screws to hold the replacement dash cover. .. . the one that is being made. As with all things bespoke, a template needs to be made and fitted. Somewhat like the Saville Row experience, except without the tailor, the cloth, the threads ... the shop ... but we have paper and scissors! The iPAD approach allows the addition and subtraction of additional paper extensions, and is able to work in the absence of electricity and electronic computers (you still need the one between the ears). The iPAD template is then transferred to styrene that is bent after appropriate application of heat to the corners. Obviously, this is an excellent opportunity to make use of the scrap styrene stock that tends to accumulate over time. Some fettling required to get the lines right. No need to be too worried about taking too much off because
  2. Quite a while back, the dash cover decided to go walkabout. And hasn't returned since. Slight diversion. A quick job to seal up a gaping big hole that should accommodate the rubber on/off switch cover on the original Wild Willy M38. Which is strange because the body post hole in the center of the hood no longer exists. But drilling a body post hole is easier than cutting out a square I guess? Anyway, front towards the hood. The patch is from a styrene sheet. I also took the opportunity to trim off the center body offset plate to allow the tub to sit lower. Flush fit. Painted.
  3. Once upon a time, in a place far far away, a thin non-woven pressed material comprising milled plant or textile fibers was produced for the purpose of capturing ideas. This fragile material was the predecessor of the modern fabrication tool known as iPAD, also known as the incredible Paper Assisted Design. A sample of which is shown below. Despite taking advantage of modern cellulose based materials with an affinity for Paper, the use of this tool continues to require copious amounts of dark liquids to ensure sufficient mental clarity for safe operation.
  4. So, I broke apart my airbrush for another round of clean and repair. A bit crusty, I know... But, it works! And, yes, good enough for a three tone camouflage scheme. And here it is, secured to the jeep.
  5. Marker lights. A few more bits of styrene and its starting to look the part. Next step, paint.
  6. Use the back side of the velcro. Stick the other side on a piece of styrene. Add a couple of tabs to the radiator shroud. And then to the styrene plate thats backing the velcro strip. Drill a couple of through holes. Then secure using 1mm screws. This allows separation for paint. Because ... I wanted to see what it'd look like before paint. Ok. Looks about right.
  7. Something black Something sticky ...
  8. I feel a little unbalanced ... Wait! It's not me. It's the grille! The nice thing about styrene is that you can always melt or glue some back after taking off a bit too much. Holey Willy! That's a lot of holes! The grille is asymmetrical at the marker lights to simulate the bump for the battery holder in the original engine compartment. Or some such reason. You may also notice that there are nine slots per the original Willys MB grille. Score from hole to hole and we have added more lightness with a few gentle prods. And some filing to round out the holes. A smidgen more lightness added to clearance for light buckets. A quick test fit to check clearance. Seems about right. Also visible are dents to the original Wild Willy 2 hood. Integrated mounts for the light buckets done. If you review the first post above, you will notice the first grille used the black mounts from the torch light. Couldn't use the black mounts here due to the additional 3 slots in the grille. The styrene plates on top and sides of the grille are to simulate the radiator shroud in the engine bay. Front view Under the bonnet. Bit cosy, what? The jerrycan appears somewhat distressed ... Added to the repair list. Side supports for the marker lights. Contemplating cooling. It does fit ... but ...
  9. So, after drilling some marker holes, we have the starting point for transferring the lines to styrene. Bear with me. It will get worse before it gets better... I know it looks warped. Honestly, I don't recall that clearly, but I think it was just the curvature of the earth and the gravitational pull of the moon that bent the light reflecting off the styrene. Or perhaps it was the grid lines on the cutting mat that's causing an illusion of unstraight lines? In any case, some holes were added for lightness.
  10. In an attempt to keep up with technology, I dusted off my mouse and desktop computer and fired up the Gimp. Suitably impressed by my technical prowess, I printed out a copy and transferred it to a thin sheet of styrene. Sort of. I know it looks bad. But, we shouldn't judge a book by its cover and all that.
  11. "Finished" seems so ... final... I have progressed on this jeep. A few times. But, I am getting ahead of myself. The chassis ran fine. Quite speedy. Just like an M03, in fact; an amazing coincidence. Tossed on a WW2 tub to check wheel well alignment. Seems about right. Excuse the weathering... that's real mud. And then, there was the sudden stop ...
  12. Chuck all the drive and radio bits on, put on new shoes and RUN! Stop laughing and tidy up the wiring. And swap in a Dirt Tuned motor. I can't remember why, but I spaced out the wheels for a wider track. Might try bringing it in the next time. Needed brass tubes for spacers. Worked, but not the nicest stance. All the radio bits were shoved into the back. The Rx couldn't quite make it in. The brass tubes are extending the mounting posts for the front. If its worth doing, its worth doing weirdly.
  13. I need an M-03S chassis. S for 'Shortened'. Measure once, cut twice. That's it! I knew I should have been a carpenter. Born natural. Used a bit of epoxy. The epoxy was advertised to hold 2 tons... Looks slick. 2 tons ... small surface area ... twitchy driving ... sloppy tie rods ... Ah well, better safe than sorry, what? Just a few slices of styrene and a bit more epoxy. My driving isn't that bad. This is ... um ... purely decorative... A close-up For some reason, this reminds me of a chicken carcass ... Anyway, I think the M-03S chassis is ready to be built up now. Not a very inspiring photo. Transplant in progress. But if you look above the slicks, you'll know this is an M-03S.
  14. Idea ... what if I used an M03 chassis? Didn't look too bad. Erm ... the pink bumper ... yeah ... that was from the time it was on the Coca-Cola mini. Unfortunately, the chassis was a little bit on the long side. I could imagine the tires at the right height though. What to do? What to do? And please ignore the various connectors and adapters. The chassis was on life support.
  15. Hi mongoose1983, zomboided, and Wild Willy Speed Shop. Thanks for the kind words. I am sure you will be glad to know that it didn't hurt to remove the masking tape from my Willy. I bought some extra Brat tires and wheels after a few years and thought it might be a good idea to put them on the jeep. It didn't look too bad from an angle. Before we go further, I ask you to excuse the rubber latex glove fingers and heat shrink that were used to ... erm ... protect the dampers and springs and servo compartment. As may be slightly apparent, I sometimes run the jeep off pavement and the occasional splatter of wet earth tends to go everywhere. The latex glove pieces lessens the amount of time I have to spend cleaning and rebuilding stuff. I also noticed that I seem to have lost a few bits and bobs by this time; namely, the windscreen and the dash cover. From the side though, the Brat tires look a bit ... awkward. I think this was the lowest I got it to go. Needed a change in plans. Noticed a chunk of silver grey plastic. Idea.
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