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mtbkym01

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About mtbkym01

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  • Birthday 08/06/1972

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    South Australia

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  1. Just ordered a pipe cutter, great looking results.
  2. Probably been asked 1000 time, but what is everyone’s method of cutting down body posts so as they look nice and neat, not just “hacked” off. Pics of results would be awesome, cheers
  3. I’m surprised to hear Kyosho shocks leaking, their shocks have been some of the best I’ve ever used, right back to Option House Golds
  4. I have a new built Classic, a NIB Classic and a new built Worlds. The Worlds didn’t really grab me like the Classic did when I was building it, would love a JRX2 to go with them. I will need an Ultima as well
  5. Don’t think so, I’ve only seen the grey scale image that has been floating around. I’m hoping that the plastics aren’t blue
  6. (Yesterday) Pre-ordered a Clodbuster Black Edition through my LHS
  7. Finally I’m back on the RR, priming and painting has started, what I’m going for will take me a while, and I don’t want to rush it so each coat will take time, lots of time in between letting each coat and colour harden fully.
  8. Most receivers can handle the voltage (check the specs to confirm though), the biggest concern is going to be the steering servo though, unless its HV rated, its quite likely to fail with the extra voltage coming from the battery. In Nitro 1/8, almost all receiver packs (2 servos are used in these) are lipo these days (7.4v) and any modern radio equip can handle this voltage through the receiver, but unless HV servos are used, they will fail eventually.
  9. Pretty obvious what the consensus is here, I say build it as well. I have a number of NIB kits which I've had for a number of years. Most of them overtime will get built at some point. Theres only a couple that I probably wont build (Like my original NIB Fox for e.g.) I want to keep that one NIB as it's nice to have a reminder what it was like when I opened up my original back in the 80's (which I built and ran the gizzards out of, and its still with me also).
  10. Clod wheels/tyres are much bigger than those Lunchbox ones
  11. I have a mate (who actually owns my LHS) who airbrushes bodies, he uses acrylic airbrush paint, and then backs them with PS1. He does a lot of bodies and they turn out great and last very well
  12. Thanks, I really appreciate that info With these hop up blocks, do I need inserts for the suspension pins or do they fit into the alloy blocks as is? the reduction I can achieve if I incorporate the 3mm hex’s linked above and these blocks will be 2.5mm each side which may be perfect.
  13. So my TA06 actually already has 4mm alloy hexes, so it seems I’m going to need to go to FR and RR blocks to get it narrower, the issue I now have is that attached document confuses the expletive out of me. I believe my car currently has the “standard” blocks in it presently, so how do I know what they would be, to then know what I’ll need to go to to get between 2 and 3 mm reduction each side, and then, how do I even find the parts that I’ll need, once I’ve identified what ones will give me the track reduction I need. Far out this on road stuff is insane **edit - so I can see the part numbers below in the doc which is great, but I can’t tell how to reduce the width, while maintaining around 2deg toe
  14. The build I’m doing with my TA06 has me using 9mm offset rear wheels, which has them slightly outside the width of the body. I’m thinking by getting thinner hex’s I might be able to narrow the track on the rear. Does anyone know where I might find such a thing? I’ve checked on eBay and found some 3mm ones but with in excess of $20USD shipping Or, does anyone know how else I might be able to narrow the track on the rear of the car? I’m probably looking for 2-3mm each side
  15. Nope, just wholesale I believe, distributing all the old ACE brands, plus the old ME stuff not picked up by OMP and the like
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