mtbkym01

Love it, a great tribute

7.4 volt lipo at full charge is 8.4v

Gel/Jelly ink scrapbooking roller pens, work very well

Shes still brand spankin new for the Tri Series mate

Still waiting on the new wing, but here's the progress pics

You mean like this one

Gee a Nova and a Wild One, it's funny, I just went to Japan with a bloke who bought both of those kits over there, and a Scania full function kit, do you know him???

Great job mate, and welcome, gonna be a bumpy ride this vintage stuff, too much to want with not enough $$$ to get it all, great job on the paint too, it's like you've got a bit of a painting talent or something

Far out, having pic issues again, this time with photobucket itself grrrrrr, anyway got the transmission binding issue sorted, got the liquidmask laid down, trimmed, painted and removed, placed a few decals, but can't call it finished coz I've still got to redo the tyre lettering, and fit a better looking wing(thanks to inspiration and recommendation from Percymon). Will try and get pics up ASAP.

Hey beefmuffin, did you get my PM?

Well, in the restoration queue there is a Bigwig, a Topforce, a Firedragon, a Turbo Optima, a RC10 Edinger, a Rough Rider. Then in the Building (new) queue there is a RC10 classic, a Bruiser, a Subaru Brat, a Wild Willy 2. Hmm, I'm counting more than 5 in that lot, I think I'm in trouble hehe

Tamiya, Mugen, Kyosho in no particular order. Funny that, all Japanese companies

Would these be Japanese manufactured kits? As the other "high end" re-re's like the Avante and Bruiser were. If so, surely the typhoon would have zero effect on the distribution of these.

A speedpassion revention combo from RCMart And, a Rough Rider antenna and mount, and a Rough Rider front bumper (must have scored an original RR to restore )

Here's something interesting, the pen I use (always use on my Tamiya tyres) for tyre lettering just rubbed off these proline tyres. Not sure if its the type of rubber, or maybe a mould release agent that caused this, will probably give them a clean and try again

Yeah that was my thinking too Dave, ran it a little bit, might try and run it a bit more before stripping it down, thanks mate

Tonight saw a little more progress after work (no pics, sorry). I trimmed the viper body and test fitted it, looks pretty good, so on went the first coat of liquid mask. I also installed some electrics, being a Yokomo 27t pro stock motor and 45amp ESC, and some HK 2.4 radio gear, and it's here where I've noticed an issue, when testing the running gear, I noticed only 1 rear wheel turning, so it seems I've got some binding issues in the 6 gear somewhere. It's not locked up, coz if I restrict the other side it will drive, but under no load only the LHS will drive, so I guess it's strip down the 6 gear and try and establish what is going on

Thanks mate, at this stage I'm just gonna leave it pretty much as is, just the bearings different from stock Hi Mark, it will be a runner, but as with most of my cars, probably won't get run very much

Very nice project, these are quite possibly my favourite car, will be watching with interest

Thanks guys, Dave/Andy, yeah not a fan of that JConcepts carcrash for sure, as said on RC10Talk, looks like "The Family Truxster" Scott, cheers mate, I figured some may be keen to see it, so you're welcome As far as the Viper body goes, I'm gonna give Liquid Mask a crack for the first time, I like others am sick of the paint bleed from using tape, and use the High Downforce wing as Dave has done on his 2 Team cars (thanks for the info Dave)

Not sure about receivers coz I've never used any with a low voltage limit, but as far as servos go, what will potentially happen is your servo life may be shortened. I ran 2 standard voltage digital servos in a 1/8 gas buggy for over 12 months on 7.4 volt receiver lipo batts, and all I noticed was increased torque and speed. I also run Futaba standard voltage servos in my 1/10 gas tourer with no issues to date (mind you, both of these cars use expensive digital servos). I think any potential failures will just come out of the blue, they will not just pop when first connected.

Sweet mate, thanks

Curious what wings you used on these? So much better looking than the one that came with my classic

Ok, bit more done today, as mentioned it was time to move onto the shocks, no real issues here, it seems mine were manufactured within tolerances, with no binding once assembled, anyway, onto the pics: The shock seals are assembled on an installation tool, then "clicked/snapped" into the shock body The additional spacers required in the rear shock bodies to limit the down stroke of the shock, omitted in the manual This awesome shock tool makes building and rebuilding shocks a breeze, here it is holding a shock shaft without leaving a mark, to enable the shock end to be installed with ease Shock bodies all assembled ready for oil, a bit of AE ' Green Slime' onto the seals to help prevent leakage goes a long way All assembled with springs and collars in place Battery cup and antenna mount in place Onto the steering mechanics and out comes the trusty bluebird servos again (great value from Hobbyking) Not a fan of the stock steering linkage at all, may look into a better solution I think As I haven't fully decided on a power plant yet (debating between a Novak 17.5 brushless, or a brushed set up), I decided I'd get the chassis to a roller stage, which meant onto wheels and tyres, of course the bushing were replaced with bearings once again What's a nostalgic build without white tyre lettering Tyres all mounted up Here's where my build is gonna move away from a classic build, I'm gonna mount up the lower profile Viper body instead of the standard Protech (gonna use that on my Edinger resto) Here you can see the difference between the Viper (front) and the Protech So that's where I'm up to, next will be trimming and painting/detailing the Viper body, and fitting a power plant, hope you enjoy this lot of pics, and again, comments welcome Cheers, mtbkym01

Oh, and shipping to Australia is an issue also, not really a cinch lol.