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About Judderman

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  • Birthday 07/11/1984

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  1. igbandy - a fellow tammie Im from your neck of the woods mate, "wincut" of all places, typically found in that stinky factory next to morrisons being some sorta maintenance man, apologies if you take the shortcut across the top of our yard and that big black hilux is in your way... thats mine lol. Might see ya around mate & praps pop round to that course if i get some spare time and works not giving me grief
  2. Adoo all, Just had a mess about with my hilux in trying to fit a 3racing winch to the front of it ( as yet no success, dont really want to cut the body or modify it in anyways appearence wise, gonna have to make a drop bracket of some sort or mess about with the bull bar ) but whilst messing i was looking at the shackle setup, i noticed the front cross member's self tapping screw holes are directly in-line with the shackle mount holes, so all i did was flip the front cross member so the self tapper was where the shackle through bolt went into the nut sat inside the cross member and vice versa so the shackle through bolt now bolts into the top of the front crossmember, the rear was easier than that. The rear bodymount has that threaded metal bar that "cradles" in the rear bodymount, simply undo the shackle from its original position on the chassis rail and bolt the shackle through bolts into that threaded metal bar, the hole isnt in-line as it is with the front, but the body height is equal from front to back which was lucky & cool at the same time. Also for clearence issues the nylock bolt that holds the shackles to the leaf springs themselves needs swapping ( if not already bolted up like this by means or mistake ) from the insde of the leaf to the outside as it rubs against the chassis rails, you lower it about 4-5mm, doing this little mod along with _miga_'s wicked tutorial you get a normal looking hilux h-lift, also you could lower the central body mounts as mentioned in the write up but my cablework dont allow for this, and in anycase the look of it is more or less a scaled down version of my real life hilux with a 3.5inch bodylift & 35 inch tyres, much more happy with the look of the model now. for the steering setup you'll no doubt have to do _miga_'s mod first to drop the pitman arm linkage to the draglink. hope this is of some use to some folks thinking there hi-lift still dont look quite right straight out the box And if anyone has any ideas/pics/links anything on how a 3racing winch is fitted to a hi-lift chassis id very much appreciate it, ive gone through my spare bits box but the issues i have is clearence from the body front valance, the bullbar's passenger side upright, though if mounted upside down i havent got any clearence issues... but its upside down lol
  3. Thanks very much mate, the primer, colour & lacquer i got from halfords, The primer is there own branded plastic primer ( grey ) the colour is an acrylic based "ford caymen blue metallic" there own brand again & the lacquer is under there own name as well, in all it cost me £18 to spray it for 1xprimer, 2xcolour ( 1 will do, the 2nd is for touching in/back up just in case ) 1x lacquer. as mentioned earlier the bmw caymen blue is a lot similar, just the ford is a bit darker and somehow more "reactive" to sunlight, praps cus the metallic fleck stands out more in a darker colour base, dunno but im happy with how it turned out i was expecting some sorta reaction with the primer and the plastic as i didnt prep the plastic in no way other than a dust off with a tack cloth ( lint free cloth will do just as good ) then dust coated it till a barrier was made, then went for it lol, pretty easy from there on really.
  4. Thanks very much mate, as a newbie to it all i dont really know any better but looking at pics of the blazing blazer & other such trucks around at that time it does seem a shame that most parts are plastic now, seems though there attention to detail has improved over the years with the hi-lift series, was very tempted with the tundra but the hilux did swing it for me since i knew it was possible to lower it, which i have done. Also its been one of them things on my life long " want " list now i own one, built it myself and got it all to how ive been wanting it in my head for years... kinda greedy of me as i own a real life hi-lift toyota hilux mk3 but the 35x12.5x15 inch wheels i just cant seem to fit under the arches of my model lol. Also the model makes for a good training ground for the real life counterpart, as most suspension parts are of an equivalent or scarily the same, i can strip the model first to see how its done, then go out in the cold and do it for real
  5. As a noob as i am to this game mate, what is spektrum radio gear then ? oh with the other bothers im getting, the clutch is much better now, it seems even these scale models need to "bed" some parts in so thats sorted. the interference is sorted, i went outside & the servos that chatter when sitting idle ive sorted by fine tuning the remote till they stop so thats all cool. anyone know of a good accessory place, fancyful things scale jerry cans, winches and the like ? the MFU i gotta save up for, they aint cheap are they ? bleedin badword thanks for the nice comments everyone, good to know what you do and what you make is appreciated one day im sure i'll get there with all the fancy bits n pieces, hop ups and the like
  6. Adoo all, finally finished the hi-lift hilux today, tested it out in the living room, changes gears like it should, tracking and toe-in-out is bang on, i do have some slight niggles if someone can help me out ? being, i do find the "crawling" gear runs ok but not a lot of torque there seems like the clutch plate is slipping i followed the instructions to say tighten the locknut and load spring right up then back off a couple, unless this is how its meant to be ? the other gears have plenty of pull and no slip i would of thought the crawling gear would have a lot of torque and no speed like my real truck has lol. also is it normal when you go into reverse the motor makes an electrical tone then starts to move ? forward doesnt do this it just goes. And would it be normal to get a lot of intereference from laptops ? particularly with bluetooth and wi-fi on, cus i lost all control when i drove my truck past it, it seemed to have an epileptic fit, all the servos went mental, luckily it pulled itself out of gear or between 2 gears and revved its nuts off... spose there aint a lot i can do about that anyroad the completed pics : oh the side strip aint the black flexible rubber one that tamiya supplied, its sticky backed chrome strip i got from halfords for my real truck, its 3mm wide and when warmed up it can be formed into any shape and stuck on, thinner stuff can be purchased ideal for window frame trimmings & anything that takes your fancy
  7. ive set it to charge for 1.0A bout an hour and a half later its on charged/trickle setting and the battery dont feel hot or theres no warning lights on the charger telling me ive done wrong so i think im on a winner there. Thanks for that all, saved me cooking my battery and the rule of thumb zak001 is alright by me an hour and a half aint a too longer wait & its safe at that level. job done !
  8. Adoo all, thought it bout time i charged me battery ready to set the toe in-out, alignment of the wheels and such, the battery at the mo is flat so i cant run it and see what it does. The battery i have is a powertech RC3000 nickel metal hydride battery pack i assume its a 7.2V as most of them seem to be, standard size ( sorry i dont know a lot about them ) it says on the battery itself : " standard charge 10 hours @ 300ma - Fast charge 1 hour @ 3000ma the charger i have is a vector nx81 with switchable outputs that are in steps of : 0.5A, 1.0A, 2.0A, 3.5A, 5.0A which one do i use dudes ? this is the first charge the battery is gonna recieve so i imagine its gonna be a slow one but which one ? then which one for regular charging ? is there a formula of some sort to work out which charge to use.... i aint gotta clue & stuck with a flat battery frightened of charging it in case i cook it lol many thanks
  9. ah the bin got emptied not long after i used it, the pic of it is on a drawing board, to spray it this time round it was sitting on an empty guinness tin ( not a full one of course ) to gain more height to spray the sills and lower bed proper, shant be making the mistake of a light coat lower down again, put me at least 2 days behind, next job is paint the fiddly bits, had a blast the other day with some tamiya lens red, turned out well nice love that lens paint very effective
  10. Well thats the clearcoat on, 2 days in the airing cupboard should have it resin polish ready to fetch them ******* bits that insist on landing on it when its wet !! still i dont think theyre deep enough to go down to the base coat so some autoglym resin polish should sort that out. i know it dont look too disimilar from the pics previous & that the pic dont show how the clearcoat has bought the metallic out but i do admit it does look a badword of a lot better than just the base coat and that was nice enough... so nearly done it metallic black but with the heavy tint of the windows it would of looked like a black blob and put me off, i couldnt make me mind up between a blue or green metallic... so this colour went on lol what d'ya all reckon ? do the professionals pass my attempt at a spray job ? please do be honest
  11. ya know i never noticed the word " BEEF " through the cab till you mentioned, bit of corporate brand plugging there lol
  12. lol fair enough mate, may i ask though how did a spray job remind you to go to morrisons ? or was it my real truck thats on my works yard next to morrisons ? if its the latter ya might hear it run up about 4pm, be my knocking off time then
  13. thanks very much mate i did look at that colour in halfords the ford version is slightly darker, might need a light dusting over when this coat is dry, down by the wheelarches and the front bottom corners of the wings is a little bit light also the bed aint drying as smooth as i'd like but its covered so hopefully the clearcoat will sort the texture issue out then its bolt on and away
  14. Hi all, spose i better introduce meself properly me names Andy or judderman to some as i got bad nerves lol, currently on the good end of a build of a hi lift hilux. yep im another newbie to the tamiya world, i must say though what a wicked 3 days i had building it, its my first build... ever ! no airfix, hornby nowt as a kid so this is my absolute first build, any comments would greatfully be appreciated for my next build and what to look out for etc. So far with the kit ive built the chassis without the 4 wheel steering option, flipped the battery to on top of the chassis as underneath it didnt look too good but could someone tell me if there is a way to lower the body/suspension as the wheels to me seem a little small for the lift its got compared to my other "real life" truck it looks like its on stilts a bit lol ( My real life truck ) Also if anyone has any hints & tips for the hand painting sections as ive painted the lenses no problem ive painted the inside of the lens on all the lenses just to stop the paint from scratching off, its the black lines in and around the lens itself thats giving me trouble as in the brush i have is like a needle but still i manage to slip off the raised line... i blame my nerves Ive uploaded a couple of pics of the body ive just finished spraying the basecoat on, be putting the clearcoat on tomorrow as ill leave it overnight to dry the colour is a ford colour called " caymen blue " metallic Any comments good or bad please do let me know & any advice on dropping the height a bit i'd really appreciate it be good to hear from some like minded people as my family think im mad ! ( you know who you are - JasXpear im finally here dude !!! )
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