DirtyBlackfoot

That is the most realistic light bars and patterns I have seen so far in a miniature scale I especially like his Rotary light bar that has the old style rotating beacons side by side. They move very real like and very convincing. Expensive for sure and way beyond my budget, but like you, I may just get the glass as it is very real looking and looks to have room for any sort of light combo. The entire system would be 180 dollars in the USA. I'd love those rotary lights though.

Dark Navy Blue with yellow, reflective insignia. Black Wheels. I must get the lighting right and perfect. I want the blinking headlights with a full light bar spitting off bright LED light. It has to be fast and not just a slow alternating blink. To try and explain the blink pattern is like this... Red, yellow and blue light bar with quick double flashes of each color before going to the next color. It would jump around to blue-red then yellow with double flash of each color. Not just a blink in an alternating fashion. I want a realistic pattern.

Hey everyone. Currently working on a new project which will, in the end, be a full working police cruiser/racer. I have a Scorcher and have decided to build it as a beach patrol vehicle(BPV) lol So.....I am after any solutions to the problem I am having. What good is a police car without all the awesome lights? Anyone here have any ideas or point me toward a solution? They must be intense, bright and realistic. I am trying to build a police car that is very real in a small package... thanks.

Boy I'm screwed. Where in the world do you learn about these things?..I searched online but it's so bleak and wide spread on how these motor numbers and specs actually mean. I fly brushless on Li-Po in my helis, but they actually come with the heli all set up..pretty much a no brainer. I do understand brushed though.... a 12 turn brushed in a MT would suck....not enough torque to push it through sand or grass. Seems I should of just went with a LRP and BZ combo....****.

So they do not have trouble taking off with steep gears(won't chatter and bog down), but they run hotter as in spinning to fast? I have to gear so it doesn't spin to fast? that heats it up then? So a 9T brushless is the equivalent of a 9T brushed motor except the brushless has more torque through the rpm range?....

Ok so you're all stock gears then?... I though twe are suppose to gear it up for the extra power?...That motor must scream with the low gearing of the BFX. Did you lock the diff?

Since this thread has died and to not make another on the same subject. I have a 9T EzRun system coming for my BFX project. It was cheap and EVERYONE says EZrun is great and powerful..so what the heck. So if theses systems have google power and really fast, then wouldn't you have to gear up the BFX's gears?.. All I can see doing is putting in the optional 21 tooth pinion as that's about it for gear options with BFX. Or is all that done with the programming card?...taking away power and adjusting power bands?...

Just ordered a set-up 9t ezrun

I have a new BFX ready to go and going around in circles about going with the EZrun system for it. I never had brushless in a RC car and very curious to see the benefits. Do I have to gear the BFX up from stock you think?... I can't believe how affordable the EZrun system is...cheaper that a LRP and BZ combo so I may just give it a try.

YEPP! Just got that notice in the mailbox just now!.... I can go pick it up or have it delivered it says. I went up to the PO and it was closed..just missed it by half an hour lol.... I could of got these shocks on this weekend.... Oh well. Thanks!

All I got was a "item shipped" email. It's been over three weeks now. I'll give the seller a shout.

* didn't get a reply in the Ebay section so asking here from all your experiences. I never ordered anything from over seas before and it's not looking like a great experience so far. Ordered some good dampers from a store on Ebay from Hong Kong... Been three weeks and still no dampers. I knew it would take a while for coming such a long distance, but ...I'm getting a little worried now. Just wanted to know if this is normal before I contact the seller

I usually get my gearing so when I step on the throttle I notice no "bog" when it starts from a dead start. I want it to jump in the front and go with no stutter. If it stutters then your motor is too weak for the gears. I never let it get hot hot either. That motor should be just a tad over warm to the touch no matter how hard you pound it. Back in the day I couldn't afford transmissions or motors, so I used to borrow or "steal" lol smaller and bigger wheels to adjust my gearing. Smaller dia tires on a car actually gears it down..quicker acceleration. I learned this trick myself at 14 years old and used to power up the front stretch with my Raider and pass RC-10's. Of course they would pass me back in the corners lol.. For my current BFX I aint touching any gears since I'm putting in a Sport tuned black can. After a while I might put in a taller pinion and see if I can get the 101BK to thermal lol ot put Clodbuster tires on the back HA-HA... Faster wide open, but I'll probably be smoking the motor when it gets to top speed.

Oh I have one more thing that is pretty stupid I have done in RC cars. I finally got my own car and got it all set up with friction shocks and everything then took it to the track.. I was racing with a bunch of gold tub aluminum RC-10's(awesome cars) and one Losi JRx2(they just came out)... The stupid part?..... I was driving a Kyosho Raider with friction shocks and 05 motor....lol. I got a dirty look from the guy next to me when I slid into the corner(oval racing) and took out his $$$$$$ RC-10.. I didn't know it at the time, but I guess he was the track sensation or something lol... I heard complaints of why they let "toy" cars race with them(referring to my Raider) and actually got scared....these guys were serious lol and my dad made sure no one had a "talk" with me lol. I loved my Raider...Currently have the entire collection NIB of the old raider series I lack a NIB Raider ARR with the green stripes, but some day. I do have turbo Raider NIB, two Original Raiders NIB and the other assembled for display and one NIV Raider Pro. What can I say?..I discovered Ebay and had my own money at my disposal

The poor child that asked his mommy if he could have it Mommy telling him later we'll go back and get it after we cash my check. They come back and it's gone...Child is crying and mommy feels really bad. Seriously though.. A Twin Det with double brushless power and beadlock wheels may be my next project. Blueprint everything to perfection and have it so scary to drive that all the campground kids will run away from it lol..hahaaha . I love that chassis and I have two BFX trucks..current one being assembled now..still deciding on power... keep it tame or go with EZrun brushless... I never had brushless so I may go with it as a preview before my Twin Det project for next year.

Oh it gets better. That **** thing still had plastic bushings in it..not one ball bearing!... ha ha... We were just drag racing and the hornet seemed good for that..very peepi, light and fast, I didn't care about steering. I remember putting on smaller slick tires to get more "jump" at the light. I had no money back then so I had to work with what I had..including a car that was not even mine lol.

I was trying to hide the mod from my cousin so I drove the car around as usual with the rocket motors hidden and duct taped inside the body. I wanted to start racing as usual under motor power and hit the turbo and watch the 3 foot flame come out the back while I go like 70 MPH past my cousin lol. Turns out motor running full throttle and only one rocket motor firing was not a good combination. The motor came loose in the tape and after flipping the motor just sat there and flamed the entire inside of the Hornet. I just got this unwise idea to get e reissue hornet and try this all over again. I could Youtube a video of it to my cousin for a good laugh. Wow..that was over 20 years ago... Good times though..good times.

Ordered some good dampers from a store on Ebay from Hong Kong... Been three weeks and still no dampers. I knew it would take a while for coming such a long distance, but ...I'm getting a little worried now. Just wanted to know if this is normal before I contact the seller.

I built a sulfur fired rocket in shop class in school and then I put two "D" sized motors inside my dad's Hornet, rigged them up to ignite when speed controller reached what. My cousin and I used to drag race our cars and I thought I would give him a little surprise lol. Oh I gave him a surprise alright.... Took off down the strip, reached what, one motor fired and sent the hornet flipping on it's side, melting the entire chassis to death lol..baked the electronics...Totally ruined as my cousin stood there like "What the badword was that?" I think he wet his pants a bit. It was awesome, but telling my dad I ruined his car....that was not so awesome. I think being older now I could make something like that again and this time have it work without wrecking anything.

Must be the EX Boyfriend's truck lmao.

So a bearing with a #1 rating has tight tolerance and a bearing with a rating of #5 would be "looser" ?..... If it's the opposite then I would think a #1 rated bearing would have some slop in it. I understand the metal quality has a lot to do with it. That is why I purchased from ABEC35.com, because it seems lots of guys here have excellent luck with those. The ceramics are to much money for my basher. Thanks for this information and I hope this thread helps others deciding on what to do about BB's.

Looks like the SS scheme has already been done on the blackfoots.... Heermmmm back to the drawing boards.

Awesome. I went back to ABEC35 last night and changed my order to rubber seals instead. I got #5 General bearings with rubber seals. These will be nice and tough for my basher truck I am working on. This will actually be the very first RC car I ever installed bearings in and I can't wait to see the difference in how it rolls. I've used Duratrax in a boat in the past though.

i just recieved my SS, SRB and my new Blackfoot project. The SS is shelved and my happiness and project Xtreme blackfoot is on the table with the box open. Just ordered some good dampers from Ebay and BB's from ABCE35 for this project. Not sure about the motor combo yet, but that can wait until I get the chassis built and configured, painted..ect ect. I can do the motor any time

This is a great idea. I have a new Blackfoot Xtreme in the works and wouldn't a Sand Scorcher scheme look good on it..... I think. The decals would be cheap since the re-release is out now.